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Colour correction a journey and adventure

05 May

Colour Correction:

A challenge a journey an adventure:

Cause client has Indulged in a cocktail of home colour trying to get that salon look on the cheap!

Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy!

What must we consider when taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  Consultation. This must be a honest conversation both parties must decide on goal and what is realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting  a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch feel the hair visual look study.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.}

Do a strand test  healthy hair floats over processed hair sinks: hair that sinks will not hold colour! step one is to re build that moisture level

How ever challenging the correction is and how ever good you are and we all like a challenge and to show off! { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about the client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill why take it on? EGO!

Think about it really damaged over processed hair fading falling apart as soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying i take on responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you then it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time recommend products see if their is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by the fee you should not be doing it!

You should be thinking long term this could be a long term relationship with a client who will trust you for ever so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step:

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that wont holds on ends, and or fades very quickly.

The key to understanding  corrective colour is the understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair what needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance harmony ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? the chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone: remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case they are all different and way to many

possibilities things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head due mainly to varying porosity and build up always work from dark to light! repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft rule as little chemistry as possible: condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair:

Do not remove if:

* hair is extremely porous.

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*do a stand test do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! but be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydroperoxide

Finally:

Follow-up this involves recommending the correct products to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment within two weeks so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!    { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

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Posted by on May 5, 2010 in HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,

 

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