Hair colour,shade & tone

26 May

Colour and pigment:

The Relationship between natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

This is not a simple process. Why?

As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour.

We have to consider the formula, another we consideration is the level of Hydorgen peroxide we require to attain our target colour level ! when making this choice we must consider the pigment we will be exposing! why because it becomes part of our colour formulation so has to be considered!

So what makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour we have to access the natural hair level of the hair before choosing a target colour a big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6

{ that being dark Blonde, Light Brown, or rat} Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use we are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect from any given strength of the Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift.

The lift you get is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level, so on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by bringing this out to play we now have to decide as we chose our new target shade do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we look at our shade chart and choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment so working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their?

lets see.

Level 6  10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6  20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6   30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6  40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow. 4 levels of tint will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

I C S, International colouring system, offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.

They Don’t measure colour, they don’t ever read the technical manual, they mix shades hit and miss oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel trust what it tells you consider the environment you are working on take  the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual it normally has the answers to your issue sand problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT: Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

TAKE THE TIME TO FULLY UNDERSTAND THE COLOUR YOU USE IN YOUR SALON ITS OK TO ASK QUESTIONS. note:  not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

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Posted by on May 26, 2010 in Hair Colour


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