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Lightening.lifting,bleaching

27 May

Hair Lighteners: Decolourizer’s & Bleach:

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to de stabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength’s or Volume 10,20.30.40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process. again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!}

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide, Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening, as a product often used for blonde high lights, and streaks. again it is always key to assess what volume or strength of peroxide to use. often toning will be required after Bleaching, so understanding pigment is essential to attain required shade or tone using the wrong toner can cause problems at the back wash!  remember yellow does not need ash it needs violet! yellow and Ash makes green,

{Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide}

Mixing:

Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for, lotions and lighteners,Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,

{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. if left on and the lifting action is kept going this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Feel free to post comments ask questions suggest topic’s can be contacted direct via my web site.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

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22 Comments

Posted by on May 27, 2010 in Hair Colour

 

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