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Herbal. Organic wonder hair colour! or?

07 Jun

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not profess to know all there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across.

Recently I tried to find out about INOA i contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me i asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

they even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

More recently i decided to get information on Organic hair colour i wrote to one company they responded directed me to the Web site, but did offer to talk with me i wrote back thanking them saying i would love an opportunity to talk about there colour line: no reply!

To be fair the Organic hair colour company did have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering.

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as possible start with 10vol 3%.

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog! Mike

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Posted by on June 7, 2010 in Hair Colour, Hairdressing

 

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