Ammonia free hair colour:

21 Aug


Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

New Ammonia free Colour INOA

A few months ago L’Oréal Professionnel revealed a new product that will, according to the company, revolutionize the salon hair coloring industry.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely
untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour, this was part of the information i could find at the time. I wrote and indeed spoke to L’oreal wanting more information sadly they did not bother to supply any.

We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many Ammonia free products without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional?

The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

INOA, short for  Innovation No Ammonia, is discovered after years of research. The treatment will color uniformly and leave hair soft, shiny and silky.

MEA Or Ammonia the facts:

Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

Ammonia is a gas.

INOA “lifts color up to three levels, covers gray and has true-to-tone color results”. There is no odor or any discomforts usually associated with ammonia application, such as a burning, itchy scalp.

MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

Sounds quite good so far but now the table is turning i’m finding hairdressers are asking question  colour companies are releasing information statements are being made voices raised.


You’re experiences are not unique with L’Oreal products. They are packed with damaging chemicals and ammonia. Their most recent product they call INOA which stands for Innovatively No Ammonia. The “oil” you have to mix the color with (called the “oil delivery system”) is packed with ammonia. What a farse! in this case Ammonium Hydroxide.

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released.

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain god colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

In March of 2010 L’Oreal Professional launched their “revolutionary” new professional hair color product known as INOA with great hype and fan-fair.  The very name INOA, L’Oreal claims, stands for Innovative No ammonia  As with many new products launched by “Big Beauty”, L’Oreal marketed to thousands upon thousands of hairdressers from around the country and many of them jumped on board by paying extraordinarily high prices, attending countless education,seminars and beginning to use the new product on their client’s scalps with the excitement that you would only expect to see in a young child on Christmas morning.  This excitement is well expected for such a revolutionary concept; a professional permanent color range that performs well and is free of all ammonia is certainly significant and definitely an innovation worth celebrating.  Unfortunately, there are two problems for L’Oreal: (1) INOA’s line is not free of ammonia and the product is far from new; and (2)  The actual revolutionary professional permanent hair color line that is really ammonia-free has been available for over 15 years and is known as organic colour systems
Now, just a few months later, INOA salons are coming to a rude awakening – the INOA line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.
What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for INOA Post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with INOA’s “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left (simply click the photo for a close-up view).  While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label.

All of this information and quotes have been found through re search my job has been to pull it together get informed search for your selves you decide,

Question be informed be professional we owe it to ourselves and our clients!

Mike B2MR


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