Creating High lift Blonde,

06 Sep


Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Creating a Natural Blonde: from a Natural level 6.

When we think about lifting hair from a natural level many things have to be considered to avoid disaster be it with home colour or in a salon it is not just a question of buy the box see the shade slap it on!

In this example a level 6 we have to consider the natural hair pigment that is going to come into play through the lifting process.

In this case lets look at a  target Natural level 9 touching on 10 {As i have stated in the past to go from a level 6 to 10 with high lift tint permanent colour is expecting a great deal from the product!}

When thinking this process through and considering the pigment we are going to expose it will help us get a realistic target shade and save the risk of shocks from unwanted or expected tone maybe that unwanted orange or yellow undertone.

There is a science to colouring hair it can seem scary mainly because it looks complicated but trust me it’s a great little exercise to do,  a method to learn and trust.

As we all know hair colour is always a balance of shades and tone: lift and pigment exposed:

Everything starts with our Red, yellow, Blue { then moves into balance of } orange, green.violet.

So lets take a look:

Levels. As we can see on the section of the colour wheel  as we travel from level 6 to level 9-10 we travel from Red orange to undertone to yellow:

So lets take a look at lift:

Level 6 when we lift this level we expose  {Red Orange} R.O

R+R+Y  {to balance} B+Y+B balanced shade.

Level 7 when we lift this level we expose  {orange} O

R+Y  {to balance}  B balanced  shade.

Level 8 when we lift this level we expose  {orange yellow} O.Y

R+Y+ Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 9 when we lift this level we expose   {yellow  orange} Y.O

Y+R+Y  {to balance} B+R+B balanced shade.

Level 1O when we lift this level we expose  { yellow} Y

Y  {to balance}  R+B  balanced  shade

Having taken the time to think through the degrees of lift what we will be exposing we need to think about the pigment we need to replace to have the perfectly balanced natural shade.

So Lets think about Balancing:

level 6 lacks B+Y+B so to balance we need  Ash+ Beige  {ash being blue}  {gold being yellow}

level 7 lacks  B          so to balance we need   Ash              {blue}

level 8 lacks  B+R+B so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {blue Violet}

level 9 lacks  Y+R+Y so to balance we need   Ash Violet   {Blue red Blue}

Level 10 lacks R+B    so to balance we need    Violet          {red blue}

So now we have to come up with our formula to tone the perfect natural blonde.

Lets work in Grams 30 = 1 oz

So looking at the above chart we need to count the units of each missing shade.

7 Blue. 3 Red 1 Gold.

The perfect Balance of shades to make a perfect tone:

15 Grams of  Ash { in this case 100A}

10 Grams of Violet{in this case 100V}

5   Grams  of Beige {in this case 100B}

This formulation = 7Blue. 3 Red. 1Gold [yellow}

As we know Ash = Blue   Violet =Red+ Blue Beige= Blue+Yellow

If we look at the above shades chosen for a toner they perfectly balance out the pigment exposed to give us a Natural Blonde no gold no yellow but not dull!

Enjoy spend some time thinking about tone shade pigment finding that perfect Balance. consider lift tone deposit, the target colour.

Remember it’s not a race it’s a process always remember the law’s of colour trust your colour wheel:

Mike B2MR


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