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Razor hair cutting a world of style and texture

02 Mar

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.


Razor hair cutting tools and skill

This started out as a razor cutting blog. Exciting and easy for me as razor cutting is my passion second only to hair colouring.

So it’s my hope you enjoy this and it pushes those buttons to get you wanting to explore the world of razor techniques.

The various techniques the creative texture can that can be created. Soft looks with  unlimited movement and no demarcation lines. It has been over 15years since I last  cut hair with scissors.

This has been a wonderful journey for me into understanding how hair falls. How to create shape and form. working with clients in this time i have not had a single client request from a client to go back to using scissors. Or any complaints about the shape look or way it has grown out. why is this? I hope this article explains all.


So down to Business

cut throat razor

How to do a razor Cut:

When we think Razor cutting. I think in most cases ones thought go directly to our friend the cut throat or open razor. A valuable tool indeed. A tool that needs to be respected a tool not to fear:

shape weight distribution:

Learning how to do. A razor cut How to use the tools to create wonderful new free textured looks comes with much practice and Experience.

That is not saying don’t try but don’t just slash away without thought to shape and weight distribution.

My personal opinion is that one should have a full understanding of hair cutting creating forming building shape before playing with razors.

 

Hand drawn the angles i process when building shape:


 

To get the most out of razor cutting one has to understand weight distribution, hair growth patterns, texture, how to build shape and form. Can you do you visualize the shape you want to create in 3D before you start? when finished does it look the way you hoped?

Master the art of scissor cutting and indeed thinning and texture shears before moving on.

With the sketch on the right i’m trying to show the curve plains on the head the curves directly impact the angles and so the weight distribution and shape we create,

These angles have to be considered and understood to be able to do frees style hair cutting:

Over the years i have seen so many hairdressers using thinning shears to cut hair when you ask them what do you think what your doing will do to the shape they look blankly or say thinning and texture of course yes but what about the shape the weight distribution!

Maybe you don’t agree with me that’s great let share  exchange some thoughts?

I have been doing hair for many years i remember the first time the penny dropped

with regard to weight distribution and creating shape! It was so exciting it was like someone turned on a light.

{ this was well over 20 years ago her name was Lesley

The claw’s

and i gave her an amazing Scissor hair cut memories}

To this day I still get that buzz when it

just works!

So these little sucker’s claw’s:

I diverse a little these are amazing on thick hair Asian hair I have cut a really textured Bob just using these but again you have to understand weight and shape and how hair falls moves and swings.


They have little blades as you use them the more pressure you apply with your fingers they hair will be removed as you drag them down the shaft in a combing motion as you can see below on this short little hair cut.

Me working with the claw’s on a model:

{LEFT ME CUTTING WITH THE CLAW’S}

Maybe I’m getting ahead of things lessons demonstration are the best way to learn these skills: I would be happy to share them with any one who would like a class.

their are so many techniques available to us with a razor and indeed so many different types of razor.

A skilled person can cut a Blunt Bob even use razor over comb, do layered cut, feather a fringe the sky is the limit My favorite tool is a feather razor i use this instead of scissors and cut hair in little points rather than a strait line. { Think about the shape of the head the angles you create?}  you cannot cut a strait line on a curved surface you create the illusion of this!  cool ha.


The right razor for the job:

It has to be a feather style razor:

I use Kashio Blades they have the best edge and last the longest maybe a few hair cuts over a year i may spend the same amount as a good pair of scissors but think about how nice it is to have a new fresh blade it glides through the hair. { it is by choice the tool of my trade}

It is widely thought that razor cutting is only suitable on certain types of hair in my experience this is not the case.

What needs to be considered is the technique that you are going to use to get the best out of any given hair type.

Once you get to this level of understanding their is no right or wrong way to do a razor cut it becomes a new art form freestyle cutting.

I was inspired by a dear friend whilst working in Vancouver at the time he was Artistic Director  for L’anza USA {Mr john Bertorelli } What John could do with a razor was and is to this day an inspiration a true artist i owe him a great deal he encouraged me to push my boundaries to step into the unknown i  did and have never looked back.

I became a platform artist working for L’anza Canada as a Colour educator and also teaching razor cutting.

Crystal blade razor:glass blade

{This little baby is a glass crystal razor}

In days gone bye i spent a great deal of time one summer cutting hair on the beach in Greece imagine this sea, sand, beer, hair cuts maybe not the best combination in the world {right!} but did you know that you can cut hair with a broken beer bottle the glass get dull very quickly but you can do a great cut.

Well that story was needed because the a razor to the right has a glass blade and it was through messing around in Greece that i knew when i found this tool that it had many applications:

Amazing for texture long and indeed curly hair so all those beers on the beach in Greece were not wasted it was an investment in my art.

When it comes to style creating that new look have fun

Challenge your self push the envelope get new skills invest in your self go on course

learn new techniques watch others share idea’s we never stop learning we just have to keep moving forward!

A great place to find razors shears and interact with on their face book page committed to professional tools for professional stylists:


I have a group page for thoughts and discussions leave comments. or join follow this blog here.

Exploring techniques with a razor will open up a hole new world of creativity:

If you need would like help encouragement group or individual instruction I’m sure i could help you reach a new level of expertise.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

full contact details on my web site:

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