Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR
A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Below I have cut and pasted a blog posted by a student hairdresser it’s colour correction posting . I would like to review it with you in sections. For it highlights some real issues relating to teaching standards and advise given to students and trainees.
Below is the Article as posted :
A lady came in today with some seriously lightened hair. She had about an inch of regrowth, and her hair was about a natural 6 (on a 1-10 scale). Her lightened hair was this color Straw off the charts yellow tinged.
She wanted lowlights to ease the transition while she grows her hair out (as she’s not going to continue to lighten her regrowth).
I started from ear level and weaved horizontal highlights all the way up her head, right up to the top, and it looked great when it was done – but boy oh boy was I off in my original color formula!
Of course, the instructors look over your formulas on paper before you do anything, so it worked out in the end. Here’s what I thought would be best:
1/2 8N (8 natural, in our color line) + 1/2 8.01 (8 Soft Ash in our line) 10 volume developer.
The instructors saw that and said that it would turn her hair green! I thought ash was what you use to counteract yellow, but apparently it’s more for reddish colours. I need to learn my color wheel better.
Quite the colour job and formula : a recipe for green hair?
So my first question is why is someone with no clear understanding of a colour wheel having consultation coming up with a half cocked formula?
The first formula 8N lies in a blue violet camp so to add ash is adding more blue !
So what the instructors decided on was:
3/4 5N (5 natural) + 1/4 5.3 (5 Gold) 10 volume.
This formula is totally not what I would have thought of. Especially since the client didn’t like how yellow her hair was, I would have thought putting any kind of gold color in would be aweful! And a 5? Surely they’re mad! But of course I kept my mouth shut and trusted they knew what they were doing. (And I do trust them, they’re quite good)
The instructor formulation adding that amount of 5G to 5N is fear factor it does nothing to the formulation. The 5N being a natural level 5 would mask out the 5G completely when hair is totally over processed why would you lift it more 10 Volume peroxide?
This would make it more porous damaging it more? This is why the standards being taught are so poor no care attention to detail they should be working with the student through consultation into formulation giving sound advise!
Back with our student:
So after all the weaving, which took forever because I am so slow, we went to wash out the foils and I started freaking out a bit. (On the inside! The outside is always all smiles and “Hmm, everything is exactly how I expected. No surprises here! La-dee-da”)
It looked like halloween colours! Dark streaks of level 5 brown, light yellow streaks of her original hair! Oh no! Where my weaves too chunky? Where the instructors wrong about the color formula?
I hoped it just looked halloween-y because it was wet and brought her back to my station, and started drying her hair. As it dried the worries faded, because it looked surprisingly good. The low lights weren’t actually big thick streaks, they were fairly natural looking, mild low lights. It turned out Ok! I was so surprised by the result, I would not have put a level 5 on her, or used anything yellow-based. But if I had put a level 8 on her it would have been invisible, judging by how light the level 5 looked. Just goes to show that the porosity and condition of the hair plays a huge role in coloring it.
The level 5N used with a 10 volume formulation did not give anything like target colour also over processing the hair more will cause fading this colour will not last. This was a poorly done job over seen by a very poorly trained or none caring teaching professional.
My closing Thoughts:
Students should be taught and have a full understanding of the colour wheel basic laws of colour prior to doing consultations others wise how can they possible come up with a correct formulation?
they also need to fully understand lift and deposit the effects of different levels of peroxide and the difference between permanent semi permanent Demi permanent and colour balancing all very basic stuff but key to understanding colour.
In so many cases a little basic knowledge is given prior to being let loose into the practical application of our trade our skill. This can be very dangerous it makes for stylist who muddle through thinking they are skilled and even convince them selves they know everything this is dangerous this is ‘ Ego’
We as educators owe it to student to deliver the highest standard to education as is possible students have the obligation to look listen learn and strive to reach the highest standard of training.
Education is a very important part of being a stylist. It is one of the most important aspect of giving back and sharing but should be done by those with knowledge skill and passion .
To be a great hairdresser requires continued education and up dating of skills and product knowledge, industry awareness is key to staying up with change keeping you in touch and relevant. Consistently getting education will not only keep your skills and knowledge up to date but your clients will appreciate that you invest both time and money in you ability.
Clients do notice when we try out new techniques be it cutting or colouring . What we have to remember is that we are being watched and criticized, even if its done in silence. As stylists and trainee as hairdresser keep up to date on the latest trends, and hairstyles, colours, techniques will keep you at the top of your game.