Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:
Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.
A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Some of this is a re post on the Keratin topic.
But I feel now some time has passed salons and stylists have had time to use these products.Clients have had them applied and in many cases loved the effects.
The flip side of this is health warnings. Some negative client reviews.
I have spoken to stylists who think the health warnings are a waste of time for the clients want the products. The stylists like the process and the fee they can charge.
I have spoken with a stylist who spent a week in hospital in an oxygen tent having had breathing issues related to breathing in the toxic fumes created when some products are heated to high levels.
So lets review .
This is a long article so please be patient.
I had the good fortune recently to have a discussion with some one from Nano keratin systems who was kind enough to reply to my E-mail asking question about the product and it’s hair straightening properties.
The new trend name for this process is the Brazilian Blow Dry: I find this a tad generic.
Molecules of current size are limited in their ability to penetrate the hair shaft have been limited to the delicate game of chemical invasion by way of perms and colors. Shampoo and conditioning products have historically performed their job topically and have had limited ability to do much else.
Nano technology has been an engineering break through in the hair industry for a while reducing the molecular size of colour pigment to now reducing the keratin Molecule thus making it possible to perform services without having to overly open the cuticle.
Having a basic understanding of keratin and the role it plays in the hair’s structure proved to be most helpful in understanding the Nano keratin System product.
The Nano keratin system is an innovative development at the forefront of technology that utilizes Nano-molecular keratin. The name Nano keratin means. Nano-molecules of keratin. A substance that successfully repairs the core of damaged hair. The Nano-molecules of Nano keratin penetrate hair follicles and repair each strand. Nano keratin system is a microscopic substance and each Nano-molecule is 1/1000 of 1/1,000,000 the size of an original keratin molecule particles are so minute that millions of them can be gathered onto a pin head!
Minute traces of product and vapor with extraordinary penetration capabilities enter and completely fill damaged hair with Nano-molecular keratin particles. During the next step those Nano-molecules are locked into the hair as additional vapor is infused, thus creating permanent, non-soluble keratin, just like natural keratin!
Regular conditioners and hair treatments sometimes contain protein molecules, but these are too large to penetrate the core of your hair or to be precise. They naturally over the course of time are rinsed out each time you shampoo. Anything with a larger molecular weight cannot be readily absorbed through the cuticle in to the hair many products try to attain this by changing the pH of the hair in an effort to open the cuticle more! even keratin derived from natural sources such as animal, vegetable or mineral will only lie on or coat the outer shaft of the hair they are to large to be absorbed.
Professional hair care products have always relied on the process of opening up the hair shaft chemically, facilitating the color or perm process then “neutralizing” or stopping the chemical process thus halting the action.
The chemical process has always had the downside of “blossoming the hair shaft – causing what we see as frizz conditioners smoothing products, and moisturizers help to smooth the cuticle layer, but never fully return it to it’s previous pre-chemical luster.
As the world of professional hair care products evolves, we will see nanotechnology play an ever increasing role. Minimizing chemical damage while maximizing health and shine. feeling healthier and easier to style The Nano keratin System appears to revitalizes hair.
The Nano keration method utilizes the same protein that is found in your hair, keratin, but in its most minute size, thus it is locked into the hair strand where it repairs and nourishes hair immediately. Nano keratin is simply the most advanced technology – the fastest and most efficient method in the world to repair, revitalize and care for your hair. All hair types can benefit from this innovative technology, but the results are particularly impressive in cases of severely damaged hair.
Nano keratin is an innovative, advanced technology that was developed for those men and women who are interested in straightening their hair. Nano-technology has also been successfully applied to the deposit of hair colour molecules the red molecule is the hardest to get into the hair due to it’s size nano Technology has helped hair scientists and chemist improve success and deposit of the red colour pigment molecules greatly
Nano keratin is the basis of the innovative hair straightening method called Nano keratin system this method utilizes a Nano-molecular substance. Nano keratin, which penetrates hair follicles and completely coats your hair. Hair stylists perform the process using an innovative hair straightening device. This tool allows the Nano keratin Nano-molecules to penetrate, coat and repair the damaged hair core and ultimately straightens the hair strand.
In our discussion i equated this process to having a slice of Swiss cheese and spreading cream cheese over the top thus filling all the holes I then equated the heat and flat iron process as smoothing down the cuticle whilst hardening the keratin i presume the dissolving substance to be an agent that also closes the cuticle and restores the ph to the hair?
Once the hair strand is coated with a layer of Nano keratin molecules, a dissolving substance is vaporized through an additional process. At the end of this process a
reaction called polymerization occurs, filling the hair fissures and making the hair both durable and flexible.
Who is suitable for it is suggested any one as i understand more i will share and inform you with more
I really can’t imagine any manufacturer of professional hair care products not embracing this technology in the near future. Molecules that measure a mere billionth of a meter will result in products that are infinitely more capable of doing the job intended.
Nanotechnology will undoubtedly bring better and broader lines. The marketplace will fill every niche we could possibly imagine as the world of professional hair care products moves from the world of pH balanced formulations that we all came to know and love.
Well we have introduced the keratin products and the technology behind them but now to be fair we must look at how they work the good the bad the pro’s and Con’s oh and some of the health warnings that have been associated with some these product’s the full spectrum.
Keratin the key component if the structure of human hair it gives the hair strength shine along with the 19 Amino found in hair moisture playing a hugely important role in the overall condition along with the Ph .
So lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products:
|Ideal for treatment for control and smooth hair:|
They are designed to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :
Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in a effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations.
|blown out and ironed.|
After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons.
Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.
The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin.
So how do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.
The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application.
I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.
This is the topic that started me asking questions:
It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.
Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ Brocoto they market their product as being a
Curl interrupted smoothing system.
So how does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde,
The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health.
They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application
Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5.
This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes
The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray.
The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle?
The keratin is manufactured.
|pre any treatment|
So my questions yet to be answered
So the Ammonium Bisulphite is the alkaline certainly sounds like it could be a alkaline but if naturally produced source it may be called natural! used to open the cuticle so to what level of Ph? Your Keratin what is it’s source given that hydrolised human hair keratin has the smallest molecular weight of all the naturally sourced keratin’s? or is your manufactured ie Nano?
Once you add the heat to the Keratin and it hardens giving the hair a shine not unlike a coat of varnish.
Does the colour last longer due to the flat cuticle? when applying colour having already changed the Ph with the Ammonium Bisulphite does this overly effect the fact that most professional colours already have an alkaline in them so to some it might seem we are over processing by opening the cuticle to much given the effects on the Ph of the hair! Many questions sorry but when educating products or writing about then i like to have as much information as is possible, i used a keratin based product some 12 years ago so have some understanding of the technology.
It sounds like a product that works but really has not been around long enough to know what the effects long term are to hair and health or how well it will be received by stylist and the pay client.
New innovative products that can give us tools to improve the daily lives of our clients are always so exciting and bring with them hype expectation motivation these keratin based products are all that new and exciting.
As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR