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How does one attain a perfect level of lift to reach a natural looking blonde hair colour level. As discussed many time before in previous articles one has to consider lift deposit and the natural level of the hair to start with.
I am writing this as a response to a search on the topic. The raised question was. To get from natural level 7 to 9? This would be a perfect level to reach and target colour attainable. Remember understanding colour how it works. How to neutralise or utilise those pigments you will expose in the lifting process requires that you consult and trust the colour wheel.
When lifting from a natural level 7 the pigment exposed with be as follows.
*7 expect Orange undertone:
*8 expect Orange/Yellow undertone:
*9 desired 9 expect Yellow:
My suggestion would be to use a high lift Blonde to reach this level of lift. It is possible to get the right level of lift without bleach!
High lift Blonde will give up to 4 levels of lift so 7 to 9 is perfect to expect target colour and shade.
I would suggest using either High lift 100A [ash] or 100V[violet] both of these will control pigment exposed.
For an ultimate Blonde here is a formulation that frankly rocks.
10 grams 100A, 10 grams 100V, 10 grams100B. 10 grams 100[clear] + 80 grams of 40 volume peroxide. Remember 30 grams is = to 1 0z
You can change the mixing ratio as the above is a lot of product for short hair.
Mixing the different shades will give you more pigment to control the the pigment exposed whilst lifting.the 100 in most colour line sis a clear and gives you a little extra lift.
Remember with most High lift products the amount of developer is increased to a mixing ratio of i part colour to 2 parts developer [always follow direction of given product] development time is key here 50 minutes.this being 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit.
Either of the suggested formulations will work giving a really nice level9 Blonde but always consider.
*1 previously coloured hair will respond differently.
*2 you cannot lift colour with colour. So if previously coloured High lift formulation will not lift out old colour.
*3 If in doubt have a professional consultation follow directions. be safe.
I hope this is useful to all those want to be blondes out there!