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Corrective Hair Colour issues:

26 May

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR : Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                          Hair Colour Correction:

 

After a few days of postings hopefully providing information on many aspects of hair colouring.

From the Colour Wheel to Ph Chart . reviews of Pigment. Lift. Deposit. Tone developers timing.

With all the information provided one should have more knowledge to embark on corrective hair colour issues.

 

A huge topic how do you define or categorise it? What is classed as corrective colour? cause concerns Options:

Causes.

Client has Indulged in a cocktail hair colour party trying to get that salon look at home on the cheap! Or

Sadly a poorly done colour service done by an unskilled hairdresser.

A mixture of both of the above some salon visits some home colour therapy! Can and will result in need of expert help and advise.

What must we consider when Taking on a Corrective colour  challenge?

Do some salon over charge for this service? sadly yes in many cases!

Are all stylists qualified to do this service? certainly not many just don’t have the knowledge and experience!

Are clients punished because they need this service? Yes, quite often they can feel like they are being punished.

The key to successful colour correction are as follows:  

Firstly as a client consumer. If you find your self in this dire situation. I really think it’s time to take stock seek out professional advise from someone who knows what they are doing. A professional that you as a client can trust.A person that has your best interest at heart!

Please don’t just buy another box of instant over the counter wonderful fix!

If it’s a poorly done Job by a hairdresser. I would suggest refund go else where. I would not trust them to put right a wrong!

As a Stylist:

If you as a stylist don’t feel comfortable. Don’t feel you have the skills to do corrective work, be big enough to admit it! Drop the ego get the skill.

The Key to successful Correction. Is communication and honesty by all concerned. History, concerns,  reservations, Expectations, should all be discussed.

The Consultation

This must be an honest conversation. Both parties must decide on a goal and what can realistically be achieved! {it is worth noting that correction can take more than one visit}

A Commitment to work together for how ever long this journey might take.

During the consultation, a stylist must use all tools available to them. Ask as many questions as possible thus getting a full history of events running up to this point!

Touch and feel,visual study of the hair.{ look for banding. fading. build up. breakage.porosity.} 

Do a strand test. Healthy hair floats, over processed hair sinks. Hair that sinks will not hold colour! Step one is to re build that moisture level 

How ever challenging the correction is. How ever good you are. We all like a challenge and to show off!   { oh yes it’s correction so big earner!}  But make sure you know what you doing. Are your up to the task.

What is classed as corrective hair work? Badly done Colour, Wrong Colour or shade. Poor coverage issues. Over Deposit. Damage by over process long term abuse.

                                                                                           

Picture to the above is corrective from the first shot:

Colour added but existing Blonde utilised. Colours added all Demi formulation for deposit no lift

Stylist consider this 

If at the end of the day you don’t get a good feeling about. The client commitment or if it’s not going to be a good advert for your skill. Why take it on? EGO!

Think about this. Really damaged over processed hair, that is fading, falling apart a lot to take on. As soon as you agree to attempt to correct this you are saying. I take on full responsibility for this and all that has been done in the past!

A huge risk. Remember if it’s not going to be a good advert for you, that it can cause damage to your reputation. Hard as it is their is nothing wrong with saying. I’m sorry this is just to damaged to work with at this time. Recommend products see if there is commitment to work with you!

If the motivator is driven by your fee you should not be doing it!  

You should be thinking long term. This could be a long term relationship with a client. One who will trust you for ever, so be honest look at it as an investment! educate them.

The Next Step: 

So we have decided that we can and want to proceed:

Corrective Colour will usually be one or a combination of the following:

*Wrong level: the hair is to dark or too light.

*Wrong Tone: the hair is to warm {Orange} to cool {ash}

*Uneven colour: Dark ends. Lines of demarcation. light { hot} regrowth.

* Insufficient or poor Grey coverage.

* Colour that won’t holds on ends and or fade very quickly.

The key to understanding corrective colour is. The understanding of what pigment is missing from the hair. What needs to be replaced or removed?

Hair colour is about balance and harmony. Ask your self do i want utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? The chart below shows the relationship of tone and corrective tone. Remember that perfect balance of our primary colours Red, yellow, blue.

So as an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} So to bring balance to a natural level 7 we would add a corrective Blue Tone! cool ha.

You must learn to trust these charts to get the correct results:

It would not be possible to give an example of a corrective case, They are all different just way to many possibilities and things to watch out for.

Problems:

Colour may not be removed evenly over the entire head. Due mainly to varying porosity and build up. Always work from dark to light! Repeat on dark areas before moving on to lighter area. Be patient always protect virgin hair – regrowth.

Lifting the cuticle causes damage to the hair shaft. Rule use as little chemistry as possible, protect that condition get that hair Ph back to 5.5!

Test the hair: 

Do not remove colour if:

* Hair is extremely porous or slimy, does it stretch when wet? sort of cotton wool Like!

*Skin is broken and or sensitive.

*Do a stand test, do a skin test be safe.

Repeat performance:

In a perfect world we could say this is a one off service! But be prepared for follow up fine tuning to get the perfect results.

Decolourizer or Bleach  one of the key tools needed for corrective service when mixed with the correct volume of Hydrogen peroxide on the market now many really good colour removers. 

Finally:

Follow-up this involves. Recommending the correct products, to maintain the colour and hair condition it’s your prescription for success!

Book a follow up appointment. Within two weeks is ideal, so colour retention can be checked and adjusted if necessary!

Remember it’s a journey an adventure with the right tools knowledge and education correction can be fun!   { if you don’t have the skills and confidence seek help get the knowledge}

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4 responses to “Corrective Hair Colour issues:

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