Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR. Regular postings of fresh new topic’s
Badly done Blonde hair: WHY?
Why is it that with so many wonderfully talented stylist’s. So many Salons’. So many products both for professional use and indeed the much promoted over the counter wonder hair colours. The question is. Why is there much poorly done over processed badly coloured Blonde hair wondering our streets? What is going on? What is going wrong? Is it our our client are to accepting of looks and standards? I we dropped our standards? Or is bad hair the acceptable norm?
I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair. Really badly done highlights and streaks. An example of this can come in many forms but none are a pretty sight ! They certainly do nothing as a walking advertisement for either our industry or any given salon and or stylist.
|When things go wrong hot bright roots not left down full hair shaft.
In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly why? because of over processing lack condition so the hair lacks natural moisture.
Patchy streaks dull blonde. Caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer. Then selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice.
Of corse not all of this is caused by stylist’s in the salon.A considerable amount is home done But none should come from the salon.
| Over processed Blonde out of condition no tone.
These two shots above and below show that with knowledge patients and skill anything is possible.In this instance we are managed to create a Blonde healthy tone with texture and dimension.
It’s creating a blonde utilising what we had to start with. By adding shade and tone.
colour corrected with highlights and low lights.
When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry the pigments you have exposed through the lifting process. For lets face it colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head.
Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.
When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.
As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base.
So if your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige? It’s all about the balance of tone corrective Toner and always Condition.
|Condition and Tone both key.|
Lets go back to level 6 to 10 using 40 volume peroxide. This degree of lift is not possible! Why? Because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer. Or are skilled enough to know how to manipulate both colour and pigment in formulations? Yes there are ways I could share with you but hard to just write down warrants explanation. Let me know if your interested.
This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots!
Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.
Consultation. Look. Touch. Question. But remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!
Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide? Or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider. What it really attainable with regard to tone and look.
Good luck Mike B2MR
Want more colour information contact me we can chat. about your colour issues and requirements.