Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.
Hot reds, rich coppers always lurking just waiting to jump back into the pages of fashion magazines vibrant alive. Yet as a colour and shade it scares so many. So when celebrity suddenly comes out with a new look heads turn trends are set.
Is it a seasonable trend? Reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours.
As we discuss this topic. The model in all cases below is the same model I have showed this to prove that change is possible.
When we think of reds there are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.
Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour choosing the correct shade is just the start of the colour equation. To achieve a real rich vibrant colour three main things have to be considered. the clients Natural hair level Ideal shades N5 to N7 the correct level of peroxide and right choice of shade.
Why levels 4N to 7N because these are the best levels to retain red and orange pigment after lift.Level 4 through 6 ideal for reds 6N THROUGH 8N as we lift the copper shades will be more advised. all good food for thought and consideration.
We also need to consider the formulation for root application. This will also take some consideration namely the percentage of Grey? The amount of Grey dictates the amount of N series required in the formulation . As well as target colour and desired level of peroxide. the way to assess this is take a section and 2inches long a see what percentage is Grey! if 25% then that would normally be the amount of N series required. Without N series you may end up with hot roots! After root application colour balance with desired target colour formulation .
With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair.
As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same colour family. Red. Red Copper, Copper Red. Red brown. They all work with skin and eye colour of the model.
The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone.
To go darker to lighter the key is to use the natural pigment in the hair you are lifting. Don’t try for to many levels at once. Remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. As you can see from the model shots same model different shades.
A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.
Always consider the environment you are working on. This includes all history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!
Have some fun enjoying some warmth for the summer months. Reds can and will tend to fade as can the copper shades . By retaining and working with the natural pigment. Choosing the correct formulation then recommend good products and care routine. Good products and sound advise will keep that rich colour alive and healthy.
Reds fun Vibrant never dull but always a challenge! Mike B2MR