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Re Visit. Lift, deposit, shade and tone.

21 Jul

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

 

                                        PEA IN YOUR HAIR COLOUR:

A re visit to a topic that I have covered a number of times but one that I think generates much attention raises many questions.

Recently I came a cross some advise suggesting the following:

When doing High lift Blonde if you have an issue with. to much Natural gold pigment being exposed during the lifting process add a pea sized amount of 1N!

Whilst i can understand the thinking behind this… I would class this type of advise One. For advanced colour technicians. Two  as a last resort. I would like to explain why.

 

First and foremost I advocate when working out a formulation to either weigh or measure product so it can be repeated or accurately changed . Oh and save’s product wastage.

So advise like pea size is rather unquantified. How big is any given pea?  It’s a little like formulation i see in some instances with a squidge!  How much is that? How much is a squeeze? You get the idea.

 

 

So moving on High lift Blonde is designed for lifting Natural hair level 6 to 9  if target colour is a desired level of natural looking Blonde. Any level Darker than a level 5 will not give desired lift and you will have unwanted pigment issues. You may need to lift with a Bleach decolourizer then tone.

 

 

When lifting with a normal High lift Blonde formulation from a level 6  with a target colour of a natural level 9 .

We have to lift  through level 6 into level 7 and 8 then lifting or controlling pigment at our level 9

In terms of pigment exposed this is as follows.

level 6  Red/orange

level 7  Orange

level 8  Orange/yellow

level 9 Yellow

 

These are the pigments we expose and expect to see when lift from a level 6 with a High lift formulation

Normally with a High lift the mixing ratio is 1 part Colour to 2 part 40 vol Developer.

 

 

The higher level of developer is to achieve the required lift with a development time for lift and deposit of 50 Minutes. [ heat does not accelerate this formulation or timing]

As we can see from above information if we have an issue with unwanted gold pigment being exposed we have an issue with either the natural level we started from or the formulation/timing.

 

 

To Much Gold suggest’s not enough lift. What we can do ? Is a Natural controlled blonde shade attainable? Of course it is. We have to look at our formula an address the issue of Pigment exposed and how to control it. Consult your shade chart and your colour wheel.

Yellow Orange would denote or present as Gold hue so to control one would need a Blue /violet formulation to address and or tone .This can be seen both on the basic colour wheel above or the provided pigment correction chart. I would agin suggest if Gold pigment is the issue then you have

only lifted then hair to a level 8 exposing the pigment at that level.

 

Easy to solve give it some thought think the process through it’s all about balance of pigment.

Consider this.

Level 8 has a Yellow/Orange pigment showing as Gold or Y+RY= Gold

Level 8 pigment lacking to restore balance and tone             B+BR= Blue/violet.

 

 

How does this work for it’s a basic colour equation.We all know that our primary colour are Red/yellow Blue it’s a balance of these shades at any given level that give us our natural levels or N series.

 

When we lift hair exposing pigment  we strive to restore that balance of R+Y+B= N natural! yes it’s that easy. Do have questions  about this ? feel free to post

 

In closing the suggestion of 1N pea sized! would be because of the pigment making up that said shade being that Dark at IN  It is a predominately. Blue based shade with Blue Red Blue. This agin gives us Blue violet tone. But in a rather unorthodox way! It is also worth a mention that with some of the new products that are colour additive accelerants are used they will increase the process time. But it’s worth considering. If the process will the speed up. Will it allow for full pigment development needed to control pigment exposed in the lifting process? Just a thought.

 

I do hope this is helpful as always before trying anything suggested o line take some time to think it through ask questions. Discuss with fellow professionals.

Mike B2MR

http://back2myroots.co.uk/

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Posted by on July 21, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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