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Blonde hair bleaching. Lift deposit toning issues.

13 Aug

How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

                                                   how not to bleach!

On the right i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content or lack there of.

If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one.

So lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile.

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                                       [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

natural level on lift attained

 I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

Although not intended as a fashion colour remover

Colour B4 to remove build up of fashion colours (it isn’t supposed to do this) however I am finding it does.  I think much of this is to do with the whole process more than the hydrosulphite reducing the pigment size (which it cannot do on non oxidative pigment).  By the time they get to the buffer stage it seems to wipe the hair clear of the fashion colour.  Of course some colours can really stain bleached hair, but this seems to happen more with permanent colours rather than temporary ones. 

So colour remover B4 available over the counter at Boots could help with build up of shades and be more gentle or another option for you.

So having removed all this old colour build up and got an even level of lift  without frying the hair to bits it’s time for re application of the new shade: How not to do it on the right any colour running onto the Blonde bleached hair will grab the colour,

Any Multi colour running bleeding into each other will create a mess so be patient  

Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

                                                   Share your thought with me on this site:

Natural looking Highlights

               

Blonde Management.

Blondes 

Women and indeed some men have a love affair with being Blonde that Healthy, Natural, Sexy.

Trying to recapture that healthy sun kissed look once summer has ended can be difficult some times a disaster but done well following some advise and guide lines can help avoid mistakes.

In these challenging economic times some clients resort to home hair colour always looks so amazing in the commercial the reality is that one has to decide on so many factors when choosing a hair colour and blondes can be very challenging.

The hardest part is choosing the right product and shade so you get the desired lift shade or tone

Working with the  over the counter colour creates many issues for you, the shade fades into either a nice shade of yellow or brassy mess with an orange hue or a nice green tinge

In so many cases Highlights and other techniques start off a boost to enhance a natural look but over time  it’s very easy to get to that point of needing the roots re touched every 6 weeks more so after a summer of colouring and the ravages from the sun for a more natural blonde look it’s time for some low lights the introduction of some tone and texture to those blonde locks!

Lets be honest here! this issue of going overly blonde is caused by both client and stylist the client wants  to be that little bit blonder a pick me up, we as stylist thinks hey fine at the end of the day it’s another colour job bigger bill higher commission trust me i have been their I don’t write this from some place of Judgment just fact and experience.

I am going to post a few different shots in the blog and talk about them for me being successful is of course being busy having good client retention and getting recommendations new clients. over the years i have learned that being honest with clients setting targets goals works really well it earns respect trust and you keep your clients.

It is my firm Belief that good highlights can last 3 months sometimes longer is this bad for business? well  consider this a good job that last longer gets you new recommended clients keeps you busy and yet you are not over colouring its working with the client its working with the base colour think of the head and hair as your canvas remember your the artist.

                                  This is a 4 month re growth.needs some help but still looks sort of ok!

This client when i first started working with her was colouring her hair with Highlights every six weeks when first done looked nice but roots started showing within weeks the highlights were done with just Bleach/ decolourizer yes makes Blonde but the hair was very over processed due to over lap of the coloring had no shine and the condition was poor she also wanted to grow her hair but found she could not!  she enjoyed being blonde in the summer but was open to the suggestion of low lights over the winter months

The not growing is caused by breakage as fast as it grows it breaks off through brushing combing ect. we talked through all the issue i explained options and a goal of going longer in between services made sense why had it never been suggested before? 

So we started on this new journey together our Goal Long healthy natural looking Blonde hair for my part i asked for a 1 year commitment to see this through here are the results. 




For those interested in the colors used! Natural level 6

A 20 volume Bleach roots only no overlap,

8N with 20 Volume roots only [I know the 8n has a Blue Violet under tone so using it on a natural level six will expose orange in the hair but the Blue Violet will Neutralize it to a beige Blonde!]

Finally a level 6RB beige red, roots to ends but with Demi deposit no lift when going tone on tone or darker lift is not required.

As the season change so the degree or ratio of light to dark can change a constantly evolving colour we only ever coloured from just below the crown forward not a full head this creates natural dimension in the under section depth and makes putting hair up much easier know lines from growing out streaks.

As tip the natural shade of the un-coloured under section is a good guide line for the depth of the low lights if for example a level 6 then choose level 6 low lights they can be warm gold cool but they are in the right shade family.

This formulation does have a very low level of peroxide to activate the colour with out lift.

[in this instance a low Ammonia based colour 0.4%.]

The Short hair shot is the same model -client a few years ago so with patients anything is possible.

This big Blonde look as you can see is the same hair as above volume was left over having put the hair up with back combing and hair spray.

No hot irons. rollers. or styling tools! so anything is possible just play!



Two Examples of a short Funky look Blonde with Highlights, over rich base beige base under section demi deposit. [tone on tone] level 6 finished off with a razor cut.using a feather razor and Clawzs:

Two different looks both Blonde but very different!

Blonde hair colour reviews:

As my re-search into hair colour blogs and new places to read reviews find helpful information I’m amazed at the content the misinformation or lack of content.

I really enjoy the sights that allow you post comments and share thoughts ones that don’t edit you response.

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1 Comment

Posted by on August 13, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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One response to “Blonde hair bleaching. Lift deposit toning issues.

  1. mikeb2mr

    August 13, 2011 at 11:28 am

    “This is a fantastic and informative blog, bleach can be used so poorly and without training and understanding the results can be disappointing or damaging, will definetly be reccommending collegues to pass this information on!”

    quote Siobhan Clark Via Linked in Glasgow hair stylist.

     
 
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