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Hair colouring. Want to understand.lift, pigment, deposit, tone!

31 Oct

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Hair Colour pigment lift deposit. In it’s most simple of terms this is what it is control and adding of pigment Utilising or Neutralising the pigment we expose i the hair to create that colour depth and tone we want.With some basic though to the colour families groups, red, gold,blonde,brown. With a little thought to what natural pigment we might expect to expose as we lift any given hair level. We can start to have  abetter vision and understanding of the hair colouring process.

I hope that the below information helps in this understanding! 

The Relationship between. Natural hair colour, Hydrogen peroxide, and Permanent colour is a complex one.

                                          lets talk colour.

This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour, their are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost the consultation, a time to gain as much information and history as possible, a time for some honest and frank questions.

Before we can consider away forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of this head, assess amount of Grey if any, discuss goals and targets .Are they realistic? Are they achievable?

It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour. This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.

The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results.

We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

What makes it challenging

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

                                           Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 }

This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.

10 volume or 3% Peroxide:

In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

10=yellow

9=yellow orange

8= orange

7=red orange

6= Red

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

Level 6 + 20 vol 6% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system,

Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers.

So using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules

They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs.

Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

Trusting and understand your colour wheel

Note: Different companies place their shades in different location on the wheel depending on the pigmentation of the shade:

FACT:  Most salons that change colour lines through dissatisfaction, with the colour not getting the results they want.

In most cases the problems lies with the stylist, lack of knowledge,  poor training, taking short cuts, rarely is it the product!

But hey it’s easier to blame a product that look in that mirror and be honest with your self!

                               Natures Colour is around us all the time we just have to take the time to take it in!

Take the time to understand and trust the colour wheel, make choices and decision based on. skill, knowledge, not on guess work and ego. Think about the process.Think about your ultimate target, Consider all previous history.Make informed choices and decisions.

Note:  Not understanding or lack of knowledge is not a excuse for a poor job!

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