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Permanent hair colour! other options.

07 Nov

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Recently I was lucky enough to spend some time with a group of young stylist’s all full of new and creative idea’s a willingness to learn. But still not willing to question or maybe think beyond the basic teachings. when it comes to choices of colour formulation or product chemistry.

For me know how a product works is good but also knowing what are the chemicals in it are they safe are there any side effects is also key.

Hair colouring; Much more time could be spent considering colouring options and formulations. What is the best option  what formulation will give me the best result with the least chemical damage?

Indeed basic’s with or with out ammonia herbal natural organic what’s the difference? Basic questions well to me it seems.

What is Demi colour?  How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.

When going tone on tone and darker consider do i need lift? do i want warmth?

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

Rich hot vibrant all possible with tone on tone demi deposit!

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! visually inspect the hair feel it.do a strand test! long term use of over the counter colour can create many issues.  Drop a small sample in a glass of water see if it floats! If it sinks and it may do. This might suggest that the hair is lacking moisture and will not hold colour! .

Look for banding. look for hot roots. look for drab ends. consult research question!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

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