Solid hair colour to look.

18 Nov


I am re posting this but with an update on the final look having worked together over the past year to grow length and change colour form the solid  first seen to a honey copper with some blonde tones. please re read article and see final results.

It will show that will patients and communication any thing is possible.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Well this past week end was crunch time.

When we have been working with a client for a long time building up trust and mutual respect  Some times we have to take a step back especially as issues change. Maybe those percentage of Grey hair, overall look and style.

You may well have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.

Well sadly as the Grey is creeps in as re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.

Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.

As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it’s my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.

I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don’t slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it’s breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.

Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.

Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.


I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.

The process:

From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

                       hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section’s is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.

When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

                   many papers very neat to work with.
For any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. Contact me  for information

Finally the look we set out to create low maintenance colour that could be achieved with highlights and low lights without going to blonde or using to much bleach decolouriser. As you have read to start with we had to use a bleach to lift out colour and give an even light tone  as per shots above.

Now we are able to use level 9 tones to create a honey gold and also copper warm tones as a low light. Using 20 vol peroxide and colour balancing utilising the hair’s natural pigment. 

We are now only having to colour every 8 to 10 weeks instead of every 4 to 5, better condition of the hair softer look gained client through recommendation. It’s a win win the client is in less but her friends are keeping me just as busy and guess what ? they also have friends.

I supply this information on this colour journey i hope you agree that the colour change and added length are a great example of stylist and client working together trusting each other mutual respect communication.


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