Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s.
A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.
Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking” Hum! Ego! is alive and well.
I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel” it works ! It a tool that provides all the answers for unwanted tone and colour correction.
When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Do we use it to refer to or in some cases do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!!
[ you may be smiling it happens] I have seen so many stylist give the client the shade chart as if it a paint chart sort of chose the colour pick and mix!
How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.
The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal.
The role of the N series in the shade chart is for you to sue to assess your clients natural base colour. It is designed to be used to cover Grey hair. As leaving it looking as natural as possible. Assessment of the percentage of Grey hair normally indicates the amount on N series any formula might require.
My question today is?
Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade?
Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. What pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.
Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. do you understand it?
The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean?
Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.
If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz] what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?
The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift
By doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]
So having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. So what do we need?
Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.
A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.
Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.
The key is to take the time to think. Lift. Deposit. That being what tone am i going to expose? How do i control it! do I want to neutralise it or utilise it.
It’s balance. It’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!
The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!
So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you!
A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour!
Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge ,
Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.
The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!
Have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.