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Pre lighteners Blonde hair toning

26 Jan

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Bleaching Lifting and Toning:

My goal is to post topic’s on various aspects of our industry. Hair colouring. The process. The techniques.The skill.The knowledge.

All of these skills come together to enable us to carry out many different processes and applications on our clients who trust us to be both skilled and professional.

Bleaching and toning hair is a subject I have covered in the past but it seem’s to get researched for information constantly as stylist’s and client’s look for information on the subject

Full head bleaching or High lighting are a process that requires lifting or lightening the hair to a point of removing enough of the hair’s natural pigment. To then create a natural looking shade from light brown or copper to blonde depending on the natural level or colour of the hair . How do we achieve this?

As always it starts with a consultation with you client or as a client with your stylist. This is key especially with bleaching. Past history. Condition. Goal. Expectation.

At this time it should be decided if the hair is in a condition that is ok for this process. Be it just a root application or new look. If a root application then the key is not to over lap the product onto hair that has already been processed. If in any doubt do a strand test.

Other tests you can do to see if the hair can withstand bleaching.

1/ When wet does it stretch eventually breaking?

2/ Drop a strand test into a glass of water Healthy hair will float. over processed will sink. If this is the case. chances are it over processed and damaged. It will not hold colour much less toner.

Before proceeding a regime of conditioning will be required.Try to get the hair to float in that glass.

Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser’s Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?

Bleach and pre lightening. 

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it’s so easy to get it wrong.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms. They are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair’s pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins. Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release. This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength’s or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it’s not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Take note! If the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work! Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products. 
Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the  lifting  action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:  {you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

                                             

The stages are as follows

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

The main reason for this topic is to address toning.  Having lifted the roots to blend be it with previous coloured full head or addressing high lights that are growing out.

We now have to look at the degree of lift and the shade that needs to be toned. At this point understanding the colour wheel is key as is using the correct formulation.

In so many cases the things that can go wrong with toning are. Bad choice of toner. Bad formulation.

Bleached  /decolourised. Lifted hair is by nature very porous and will take any application of toner readily and quickly so once applied stay with it as it works it’s magic.

I class Toning as early stage colour correction it’s an art.

What we are talking about here is. Lift and deposit:

For example. Lets use a natural level 6 this is classed as Dark blonde/mouse. It is a perfect level to work from to introduce natural looking Blonde shade and tone.

There  are many different types of pigment  available to us. From pre mixed tubes of concentrated pigment these might be. Ash . Violet. Amethyst depending on the tone you require.

Normally they will have a shampoo like base and are worked into the hair after the bleach has been washed or rinsed out and prior to conditioning.

Another option. Professional colour pigment tubes some have the ability to allow us to change their chemistry. They deposit pigment with any lift.  Understand your product how they work as well as having a clear goal. Read all instructions carefully.

As you can see with the above chart level six sits within the middle section of the chart. To get to a level of lift to be able to tone. We have to lift four shades into the area of pigment exposed around level 9.

This can be reached with a bleach de-colouriser or it may be possible with a high lift tint using 40 vol developer.

For the sake of this topic we are looking at. We are using an example of bleach being used.

Some may say level 6 to 9 is only three levels but that is misdirection for we have to lift through level 6 to get to level 9! In real terms we are looking at 4 levels max depending on the pigment base you want to work with. ie How much yellow you want to work with to create your shade and tone.

For levels of lift the above chart will show levels and timing from said developers:

Once we have reached a target of lifted shade to a nice even base pale yellow would be desired for a nice blonde. Anything from a very light Orange hue to very pale yellow will give an acceptable level of lift and pigment for toning Blonde.

This chart above Shows.  Both undertone exposed through the lifting process and then the pigment required to tone to a natural shade at the level lifted to.

Note you will be working at levels 8 to 10 anything darker that this will be more like low lights caramel or burnt honey tones. Because you will still have an orange hue. Darker than level 8/7 and down. It should be noted that really shades darker than level 7 are not really classed as blonde.

This I think is where mistakes are made. Considering the level of lift choosing the desired pigment required to tone. To often Ash toner is reached for. When you can see from the chart Ash really will only work for pigments that are of an Orange hue. Ash pigment used as a toner on. Yellow will create a Green hue! Why? Well what does yellow and Blue make ! da Green

Think about our primary colours the secondary shades then think it’s all about balance adding back what we have removed,But at the level we have exposed or are working in.

Guess what it’s back to know understanding trusting the colour wheel and the law of colour.

A small very basic colour wheel but easy to understand Opposites neutralise so yellow requires Violet!

Nice healthy natural shades of blonde lifted and then tones for dimension.

Healthy good condition long blonde hair is possible. It takes time patients client and stylist working together.

Finally bleached and toned full head colour all is possible . Use the right products understand these products. choose the correct formulation and timing.Think the process through!

Thanks Mike B2MR

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