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Going Lighter. Blonde and beyond!

13 Feb

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Lifting or lightening hair colour :

It is not always about going Blonde is it? It can involve lifting or lightening ones only natural colour or lifting our a darker shade application.What eve the case it can and will have and may cause some issues.This is such a huge topic it can and will open up many. Different application, formulation, situations. I will try to cover or uncover as many as possible.

I think before we start to look at the various colour options available to us. We have to take a look at and understand the process of lift deposit and hair pigmentation. The law’s of colour. The colour wheel. How to control the unwanted tones exposed in the lifting process.

Whether doing all over lift with a Bleach De-colouriser or using High Lift Blonde permanent colour for all all over colour techniques. One will always encounter unwanted pigment in the form of warmth. The key to controlling this is to understanding the colour wheel, tones needed to control the exposed pigment. The same rules will apply if doing a High lighted effect when requiring lift and deposit.

Let us look at lift and lightening

The Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on for long periods or if the lifting action is kept going. This action would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action  of removing pigment going.

Remember the Colour wheel: The tool you need to understand learn and trust!

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown.[4] Red.[5]. Red-orange.[6]. orange-yellow.[7] yellow -orange.[8]

yellow.[9] pale yellow. [10]

The first colour is always the stronger shade! So consider this when making choices regarding lifting pigment and tone. On to Primary colour. Secondary colour . Tertiary colour as seen on the colour wheel.

These being Primary.

Red.Blue.Yellow

Secondary.

Orange.Green. Violet.

Tertiary.

Yellow/green Yellow/orange Yellow/red   Red/orange Red/Violet Blue /violet Blue/green

If this sounds a little complicated well here is a useful tool for you.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel learn to trust it.

Level 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

At the top of the coloured pie section

10=yellow

9= Yellow orange

8= Orange

7=Red orange

6= Red

And so on down the chart of natural levels 5.4.3.1 bear in mind that once up in the high lift area of 9 and 10 you are dealing with degree’s of yellow and pale yellow depending on amount of pigment you have removed or exposed!

lets use an example:

Working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? Is it possible to get there? Lets see.

*Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

*Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

*Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

*Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

Four levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

The Relationship between. 

Natural hair colour . Hydrogen peroxide. Permanent colour is a complex one. When lifting hair we have to take so many variations into account if we are going to achieve the desired colour and tone.This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour,there are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost.

The consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible a time for some honest and frank questions.Before we can consider our way forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of the head. Assess Natural level. Percentage of Grey if any. Discuss goals and targets desired colour and tone Are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour.

This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results. We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

What makes it challenging:

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking. The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system, Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers. Using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs. Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

My hope is that all this information and the useful charts will help you and encourage you to think the process through and challenge your self and your thinking when lift hair lighter, from either a natural base shade or from a darker previously coloured shade.

Comments always welcome Mike B2MR:

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