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Hair colour make over colour correction

16 Mar

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our tool box of knowledge is full: We also have to have an understanding of hair colour.Different types of hair dye and trust the colour chart.

Lets consider what is a make over and what would be classed as mild correction.

Before I introduce client and stylist, lets share a little history. This young lady is in her teenage years. Like most teenagers experimented  home colour and going Blonde. One day she decided that she would go to a professional stylist and have it taken from being to blonde back to her own colour a basic colour dye job! or so she thought.

The picture to the below is after the salon had to attempts at correcting it back to her own colour. The result being hair with a green Hue know by us professionals as Mud. Why Mud? well when re pigmentation of the hair is required it is essential to re build the hairs natural pigment mantle using the correct shade of dye consulting the colour chart helps. If you don’t do this and apply the incorrect shades and tones the pigments can clash with each other or neutralise each other out causing a muddy colour. Once this has happened it’s really hard to  re balance it.

What happened in this case was an under qualified hairdresser took the job on she applied her natural level as a tint or permanent colour using 6N with 20 volume peroxide with out any thought to pigment missing the effect of adding yet more lift to the hair. no consideration to poor condition, past history and finally the under tone pigment in that level 6N.

A totally mess when it went wrong she then tried toning it with various other shades to kill the green hue hence the mud shade created. she even had the audacity to charge for this total mess. the young girl knew no better than to pay. having been lead to trust this was the best the colour could be!

How do you fix this? Could you?

Well let me introduce to you Kate our client and Alex out stylist:

This really is a challenge. To have the full history of the above hair colour disaster maybe find out what hair dye was used, Alex has to do his consultation with Kate. The key here is for Alex to get as much information a she can about past history and also get a clear idea as to expectation. At this point he has to honestly tell Kate what is possible.This cannot be ego driven it has to be within his own skill and ability. Trust me when i say it takes a bigger person to say sorry this is beyond me than to muddle on. Remember we have already had one professional screw up. As soon as Alex agrees to take this on he assume all responsibility for it. [ strand test, optional client wavier release form, fully advised of process]. Having chatted with Kate two things are established she knows her hair is very over processed and damaged she wants to look and feel better she is open to change both of colour and cut.

Alex goes on to explain  that although the really bad colour in her hair looks dark drab muddy due to the condition it will not last very long and could gentle be removed, they could then either re pigment and go warmer or they could go lighter but with many natural shades.

Alex explains that the first thing they will do is a mild cocktail made from shampoo.Bleach decolouriser. conditioner.and low volume peroxide.This will remove all the muddy pigment and give them a stripped canvas to work from. Kate says sounds like I’m in for a long visit . Alex say well once we see what we can lift out we can see what the best course of action will be for our future colour. Alex say’s don’t worry Kate we can fix this. Your lucky that your  natural skin tone and eye colour leave the door open for colour options. Really says kate never thought of that!

Off to the back wash for the cocktail.

Note whilst Alex is mixing I will insert some information  on a cocktail formulation.

A bleach bath or cocktail formulation:

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

This in itself i class as a colour correction tool, as mild as it is you must stay with it know wondering off for a smoke, a chat a coffee.This is serious stuff!

Alex works the formulation into kate’s hair once whilst applying it warns her it’s a bit cold and bit smelly! you could say that say Kate. Alex gets a wide comb and continually combes the formula  into and through her hair gradually the mixture starts to work it’s lifting. All that mud is going down the drain. After about 20minutes he is happy done he says no we can get going. he rinses a very light shampoo to remove any traces of the formula  cool water .Now he says sitting kate back down we will lightly dry it and decide on course of action.

To the colour and formulation: Thus far i very impressed with the skill Alex is showing and professional approach. We have now removed all that muddy un-wanted pigment Alex has a better idea of what is possible so he has a better vision to share with Kate. How serious is she about change? Alex says to Kate as you can see we have removed all that muddy colour. Kate says yes i back where i started but ££ pounds lighter. Right says Alex lets establish two things colour and style. Right he says with some authority I see it fair bit shorter but with texture and movement.

Colour wise lets work with the blonde, but re introduce shades that work with you, let beige this out with caramels, toffee, cool blondes and burnt honey golds. WOW ! Says Kate you can do that, Yes we can it will look great how does it sound to you amazing. Ok say’s Alex given how over processed your hair is all we have to do is deposit different shades and buildup the pigment long term work on the colour retention.I can recommend some products to help both with moisiture in your hair and colour retention qualities if you like great says Kate.

Lets get going. You ready says Alex!  First thing i’m going to do is cut a fair bit of hair off we don’t need to colour all this waste time money and product .Out comes the razor and things start to take shape. Once the bulk of the weight has been removed and shape formed. Alex, say’s to Kate feel good yes say’s Kate. Right now lets sort out this colour bear with me whilst i mix up some Formulations.

Whilst Alex is Mixing I will share with you the Different formulations:

Demi Deposit Only: Tone on tone or darker lift or higher levels of Hydrogen peroxide are not required! Remember we are going for deposit Only this over processed hair does not need any more peroxide and lift.

First Colour level 6 BR[Beige Red] remember first letter dictates stronger shade. In this choice Alex is choosing a rich beige shade but also re introducing some warm pigment back in to the hair,a wise choice. 1oz[30 grams] 6RB 2oz [60grams]  demi lotion developer. Second choice 7 GB [gold beige] again more re introduction of pigment quantity as above 1 part colour to 2 parts Demi lotion. Final choice 6B just beige will have a stronger depth than other choices.formulation as above. These are all none progressive colour formulations no need to worryabout over deposit.

Back with Alex. He explains to Kate we are going to re introduce three different shades into your hair and at the same time replace some of the warmer pigments this will give depth and tone.At the same time we will leave out some chunks of the existing blonde we will tone this later to create a nicely controlled Beige blonde that will compliment the look and style. sounds great says Kate.Oh Alex says we are also going to use the same shade sin panels in the under part of your hair to create some depth and dimension. lets get going with all these colours.

Alex works quickly with great skill we weaves out different section choosing where to place the shades and panels. Once finished he takes section from the base hair line applying the different shades in solid blocks. working from the hair line nape up to just below the occipital bone jaw line just above the ears. thus creating solid block area of three shades. leaving out the lighter chunks of pre lifted hair in the top section.

Finally all applied leaves it to process around 20 minutes no heat required!! [Heat is not good for colour, it’s not needed colouring is a process of fromulation and timing] all that is required is the correct choice of products and patients!

After 20 minutes Alex takes kate to the back wash rinse of all colour .Then decides to apply a Beige toner to control the Blonde that was left out and tie the beige theme into together. As he works the Toner into Kate’s  hair he stays with it as it starts to work on the yellow blonde  sections creating a really nice cool natural beige. Done re rinsed shampooed  conditioned ready for a little more razor work and a blow dry.

Well what a great job Alex managed to save the day and Kate looks amazing i hope you agree that this was a job well done. As for Kate well happy does not even cover the emotion she felt and how pleased she was.

Service,Consultation,skill.knowledge. without these this would not have been possible so how can we help you? what can we do for you? she left armed with the right products to maintain both new colour and condition. Committed to never making the same costly mistake again with either Home Hair dye or an un skilled stylist.

Mike B2MR [names of stylist and client have been changed]

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