Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR
What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.
Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.
Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!
How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.
As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.
The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!
Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.
Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.
It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!