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Full head bleaching and tone.

05 Apr

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s    http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works. Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting ability is dictated by strength of hydrogen peroxide and timing formulation. 

Lotions Oil -Gel: 

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/scalp during the lightening process.Most powder bleaches are not recommended for direct scalp application they may cause reaction an for burning or irritation {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide. { Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented  darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment little or no peroxide is required.Designed to neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed in the lifting process.Deposit only no lift when using a toner in some cases low volume of peroxide may be required to activate the colour molecule. When toning one should always stay with it as it continues it’s neutralisation and despot until rinsed off.The should be considered as a from of colour correction.

                                    High lift Blonde series:

All these shades are toners:

B indicates Beige = Green Orange Base will neutralise pale yellow.

G indicates Gold =yellow orange base for warmth and tone.

V indicates  Violet= red blue base with neutralise  yellow or yellow pale orange

A indicates   Ash =blue  yellow green  will neutralise  Orange orange yellow

Above classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold. What might you use here?

To beige this look out on would use a violet toner worked in for a few minutes it would restore balance getting rid of unwanted warmth .again there is no exact time stay with it do not leave alone for any period. you may end up with  sludge tone!!!

I found a link for this skin test sight happy to share as i think skin testing is so important.

http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

                                                         Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin. Colour start is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon. Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

With a little patient a good consultation and some formulation planning a great shade of bleached an droned hair can be achieved without undue stress and or damage.

Mike B2MR

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