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Category Archives: Ammonia free natural hair colour

Hair colour History and useful facts


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR 

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related. 

Brief history and some sound information on the chemistry and development of all hair colour be it for professional or home use.

Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:

PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-

Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural      dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?}  As does the newest colour  delivery system  MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.

                                           Ammonia Friend or foe!

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:

Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

Like all alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.

Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!

Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting colour.

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:

These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract, not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today.

It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.

Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colours.

These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of  most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based .These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.

However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils.

It makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour! 

Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.

Types Of Products:

Hair colour dyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling.

Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!

We are  all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!

You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment). 

In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.

It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision. understanding the colour wheel and trusting it will help in this process.

My hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR

 

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semi permanent colour and other options


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Semi Permanent Hair Colour:

Mousse, gels. Demi, permanent,

When we think about semi permanent colour we naturally assume slow wash out or fade maybe 6 to 8 washes up to 6 weeks. That’s what is says on the box or what we lead to believe not always the case!

In reality we have to consider so many things be it in the salon or at home? What we expect from this colour .What is my hair condition is it advisable?

Are we going tone on tone? Are we considering putting a darker shade than our natural level not a great deal is achieved putting lighter over darker!

If putting a cool Red {blue red} over say Blonde as it fades a pinkish, purple, hue could be left. bright true Red could fade leaving {red orange} hue.

The porosity of your own hair plays a part in how these colours may deposit. How long they last and how they fade, as well as the chemical make up of the product.

Buyer beware!

A product that is promoted as being semi permanent can still have ingredients in the formulation to open the cuticle and help with the deposit of the said colour.

This is not ammonia you can change the Ph thus opening the cuticle with money alkaline products shampoo can change the environment. Detergent/soaps, alcohol These will open the cuticle thus allowing stains to deposit slightly deeper into the hair.

It will over time create staining. It will slowly build up after prolonged use.

Hair in it’s normal state has a ph 0f 5.5 Anything raising or changing this level,this environment. Will open the cuticle to some degree. Some so called semi permanent might change the ph to as much as ph of 7!!!

In some cases they can leave behind trace chemical residue the same can be so of the mousse colour refreshing products Reds. Blondes.They can leave behind trace elements that build up and can effect professional colour applications.

In some cases they can effect the deposit of professional colour creating banding issues or poor deposit. see article on shampoo with colour pigments added.

 As a stylists always consultation it’s the key to a successful out come:

How many of you have cried their eyes out! after a colour has gone wrong? Been close to shaving your head after unfortunate choice of hair colour? Hands up! Yes ? With hair the colour of scrambled eggs…Dying your hair is not as easy as the adverts make it out to be.  I am not talking about the technique! Just the many things to take into account when considering hair colour both product and desired effect! 

It’s product choice.  It’s hair condition. It’s history of the hair previous colour. It’s application. It’s formulation. It’s timing. Oh did i mention skill and knowledge training?

The question arises:

I have coloured my hair it’s the wrong shade what can i do? Was it one tube or bottle or a mix pack?

When you applied the color did you mix 2 things together?  Was it a twist the top asking that you shake 2 suspended liquids together or were you able to apply it straight from the bottle with out mixing anything?

If you mixed 2 things you used a long lasting semi permanent, or what the pro’s call a Demi permanent. They usually contain a very low volume of peroxide and little or no ammonia, they use a different chemical to cause the oxidation instead of ammonia. such a detergent,  {in the form alkaline solution} some have a grain alcohol derivative in them maybe even metallic salts!

If it came straight from the bottle to your hair it was a direct dye or preformed dye molecule in an alkaline solution. The alkaline liquid causes the hair shaft to swell so that the large molecules of color will penetrate slightly into the cortex sticking to the cuticle. This is the principle that the washes out in 15 – 20 shampoos works, the cuticle can’t lie completely flat again because the colored molecules are in the way so each time we shampoo or wet our hair the cuticle raises or swells slightly and the rubbing action of our hands while we lather pulls a few of them off eventually we have none left and our hair is back to  nearly its original state.

Having said this continued use or applying to damaged hair you can and will get build up! porosity of hair it’s natural moisture level it’s Ph can be compromised.

DEMI PERMANENT COLOUR:

Two products mixed together much deeper deposit!

Demi  permanent colours use either low levels of ammonia or MEA {methylethylalamine}  in place of the ammonia, to oxidize  the colour molecule low level of  hydrogen peroxide less than 5vol this cause the indirect dye molecules to mature and develop into desired color. While this is considered Demi permanent because it does not lighten natural pigment with continued use it will slowly lighten the hairs natural level so could create regrowth issues and indeed over time fading issues!

The key here is not to over use and always assess the hair before any application:

                             Demi colour rich brown tone on tone deposit

The above model is a rich Brown tone on tone colour with a short textured razor cut.

Final option the one that covers fully but can create the most issues of effecting condition, deposit, banding, health and shine.

Permanent colour:

Normally mixing from a tube but in some form liquid or ge, mixing colour pigment with a peroxide mix  this is a process of lift and deposit. the colour may ammonia or be advertised as being ammonia free. MEA grain alcohol derivative in all cases the action is to change the ph of the hair open the cuticle, These products have hydrogen peroxide in them this serves to purposes it lifts your natural hair level , it also reacts with the colour molecule to help it mature or to develop it.

This is a process of lift and deposit and is permanent, many issues can arise in this choice of product from over processing to poor deposit to not attaining the correct or desired colour.

It is my personal opinion that any one want permanent colour should at least seek professional advise before embarking on this journey!

Finally a home colour correction tool:

Whilst doing research On line I came across a colour remover Product for home use not a thing I would normally promote. sold in most branches of Boot’s chemist B4 Colour remover.

The key to using any product is to follow the instruction to the latter.  Don’t take short cuts make sure you allow enough time to do this process correctly. This colour remving product is everything it claims to be I was very impressed. But remember it only removes artificial pigment if you have coloured your hair a number of times do not expect your natural colour to appear. If you have over time lifted your natural level with each colour application using permanent colour.you may be able to remove the unwanted pigment but your hair’s natural level will be lighter and in some cases very light if hair has been coloured over a long period. Remember none of these products  are a miracle quick fix. So do your re search become informed if in doubt have a professional consultation.

Before using or applying think about your choices and options: Then make a decision and live with the consequences. good luck hope this has been helpful.

MikeB2MR

 

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Hair colouring the Chemistry. How it works.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Through out history man has coloured his or her hair from using tribal muds and stains to the days of fancy pre dyed and styled wigs. Discovering permanent ways to alter and colour our own hair. Having an understanding of how this process works is key to attaining good results without causing damage or having a hair disaster.
A French chemist Eugene Schuller. Discovered the first safe commercial hair colour around the early 1900’s. Using chemical paraphenylenediamine.
Today with over 75% of women coloring their hair to some degree or another. With either help form a professional hair colour technician or by applying store purchased home colour  It is also now more widely acceptable that a growing percentage of men now also colour their hair .
With society so acceptable of hair colour how does it work? What is the hair colour process.
It’s a finally balanced series of chemical reactions between the molecules in the hair structure, the natural pigments that make up the hair’s colour. Along with a formulation that may also contain. A peroxide and ammonia or some other form of alkaline to help make the process work.
What is Hair?

Hair is mainly keratin, the same protein found in skin and fingernails. When warm and wet it’s soft and pliable. When dry or heated it hardens and protects the hair’s inner structure.

The natural color of hair depends on the ratio and quantities of two other proteins, eumelanin and phaeomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown to black hair shades while phaeomelanin is responsible for golden blond, ginger, and red colors. The absence of either type of melanin produces white or grey hair pigment deficient. It is having an understanding of these pigments that is key to successful hair colouring .Do we want to utilise or neutralise the pigment’s as we expose them in the lifting process.This in simple terms is do we want to sue the pigment to enrich the colour and shade or do we want to control or mask it!

Natural Colorants

As I stated at the start of this topic man and different cultures have been coloring their hair for thousands of years. Using plants extracts and minerals. It is these pigments found in such products as  (e.g., henna, black walnut shells beetroot juice.) others contain natural bleaching agents or cause reactions that change the color of hair (e.g., vinegar lemon juice). Natural pigments generally work by coating the hair shaft with colour  they coat the outer shaft some times lasting for several shampoos, however they aren’t necessarily safer or more gentle than modern formulations. So can have metallic salts in them. Some can and will build up on the hair.In some cases they cannot be removed.  It’s difficult to get consistent results using natural colorants, Skin test is alway recommended even with these so called natural products

Temporary Hair Color

Temporary or semi-permanent haircolors may deposit acidic dyes or direct dyes onto the outside of the hair shaft .Direct dyes are fully matured and so are to big to be readily absorbed into the inner hair structure.unless an amount of an alkaline is present to open the cuticle. In some cases smaller  pigment molecules are used they can more readerly slip inside the hair shaft  some using a small amount of peroxide.

If peroxide is used in  a product one should expect some lifting of the hair natural level and possible warmth from said lifting of the pigment. or none at all depending on formulation. In some cases, a collection of several colorant molecules enter the hair to form a larger complex inside the hair shaft. Shampooing will eventually dislodge temporary hair color. These products don’t contain ammonia,  but may have some other form of alkaline in them. If an alkaline is present the deposit will be more long lasting that normal temporary colour.

In normal temporary colour the hair shaft isn’t opened up during processing and the hair’s natural color is retained once the product washes out.

How Lightening Works

Bleach is used to lighten hair. The bleach reacts with the melanin in hair, removing the color in an irreversible chemical reaction. Normally after bleaching toning will be required to some degree to neutralise unwanted undertone exposed. The bleach oxidizes the natural melanin molecule. The melanin is still present, but the oxidized molecule is colourless.  Bleached hair that is fully lifted of pigment will retain a pale yellow hue. The yellow colour is the natural colour of keratin, the structural protein in hair.

Bear in mind bleach reacts more readily with the dark eumelanin pigment than with the phaeomelanin. Some gold or red residual colour may remain after lightening,again tis is when toning may be required to rebalance the pigment exposed.

Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most common lightening agents. The peroxide is used in an alkaline solution, which opens the hair shaft to allow the peroxide to react with the melanin lifting it in degree’s depending on the strength of peroxide timing and formulation.Of course it will also vary depending on the natural level of the hair .the darker the hair the more lift will be required and so the longer it will take to get a desired level of lift.The darker the shade the more red and orange you will have to contend with when trying to get to that pale yellow. required if you want a very blonde tone!

Permanent Hair Color

The outer layer of the hair shaft is the cuticle or order to permanently change the hair  colour and for new artificial colour to be deposited into the hair we have to open this cuticle.  We open the cuticle by using an alkaline and raising the hair’s natural Ph from around 5.5 up to around 7 in some cases higher levels are used this can and will damage the hair and lead to poor colour retention. The dye reacts with the inner portion of the hair, the cortex, to deposit or remove the color. Most permanent hair colours use a two-step process normally they work simultaneously. First removes the original colour of the hair at the same time depositing the new color. It’s essentially the same process as lightening, except a colorant is then bonded within the hair shaft.

Ammonia or another alkaline is the chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide. Peroxide is used as the developer or oxidizing agent it does this by aggravating the colour molecule and making it swell. The developer removes pre-existing color. Peroxide breaks chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, which accounts for the characteristic odor of haircolor. As the melanin is decolorized, a new permanent color is bonded to the hair cortex. Various types of alcohols and conditioners may also be present in hair colour. The conditioners help  close the cuticle after colouring and re balance that Ph level to seal in and protect the new colour.Alcohol is quite drying on the hair and is also another ingredient used to open the cuticle in the colour process,It can be also found in semi and temporary colours again to help with deposit of the colour molecules.

In closing this rather long and  technical blog all is not what it always seems and appears to be. Understand that chemistry trust your knowledge and research stay informed question and think. As and raise question seek the answers you need. Remember This! The only stupid question is the one never asked! 

Mike B2MR

 

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Bleaching lift,tone Condition


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

An up dated review on bleaching lifting and tone always worth re visiting and promoting.

                        lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it or lifts it.exposing the pigment left at any given level from degree for red shade through orange into yellow.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

                             High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  Deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want! if in doubt consult your colour wheel .toning is a re balancing or early corrective colour.

All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?

To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

    

                                            http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from site:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour wrong choice bad result !


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges.

It’s a never ending issue for so many women. What hair colour to have.Then should you pay for a salon professional or go cheap do it at home? . I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange. There is so much to colouring ones hair stylists and technicians train for years and never stop learning as new products come to market.

How much harder for the consumer who wants to for many reasons go the do it at home route! I was in the local chemist /drug store the other day.I watched a young lady looking at row of colour she picked up a box held it up to her head and decided that would do!!! walked away box in hand how she possible know they out come of her choice!!

                                          let’s talk colour

Below is the question that arose from a topic i posted and my reply this is typical of so many issues it’s why i put so much into putting useful material together.

Text from Initial article:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair, Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way If two products mixed together still using peroxide so permanent.

                                               over processed dull lifeless

Reply:

Wow, thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth in to account. Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue. Roots that have never been coloured mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. So different formulation required,on eto lift and depsoit one just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade  suggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

every thing is possible if in doubt seek professional help even if it’s only a consultation to best find out your options!

                                              Healthy natural looking colour

hope this helps you. both the client consumer and also the stylists to think and understand the issues and what motivates someone to have to resort to none professional colour? For the stylist the challenge is to win the client back for the client it’s to have an open mind .Remember you get what you pay for!!! in both hair colour and in life!

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

 

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Permanent hair colour! other options.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Recently I was lucky enough to spend some time with a group of young stylist’s all full of new and creative idea’s a willingness to learn. But still not willing to question or maybe think beyond the basic teachings. when it comes to choices of colour formulation or product chemistry.

For me know how a product works is good but also knowing what are the chemicals in it are they safe are there any side effects is also key.

Hair colouring; Much more time could be spent considering colouring options and formulations. What is the best option  what formulation will give me the best result with the least chemical damage?

Indeed basic’s with or with out ammonia herbal natural organic what’s the difference? Basic questions well to me it seems.

What is Demi colour?  How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.

When going tone on tone and darker consider do i need lift? do i want warmth?

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

Rich hot vibrant all possible with tone on tone demi deposit!

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! visually inspect the hair feel it.do a strand test! long term use of over the counter colour can create many issues.  Drop a small sample in a glass of water see if it floats! If it sinks and it may do. This might suggest that the hair is lacking moisture and will not hold colour! .

Look for banding. look for hot roots. look for drab ends. consult research question!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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The role of Peroxide and developers in HAIR COLOUR.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As a follow on from the previous topic I hope that this topic answers some questions and fils in any gaps about the hair colouring process

The Ph scale tells us the working environment of the hair and helps us determine the ideal product for any given hair type. and allows us to assess the health and condition of the hair.

We also have to know the ph of the products we are using trusting that a product with no ammonia is safe not always the way forward. For all these products are an alkaline and so open the or lift the cuticle to some degree.

Please note:

Take time  to look at the chart and see where the various applications we apply sit . A demi application developer will sit at the same level as hydrogen peroxide on this chart.

Understanding the Ph environment

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle the same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products, all serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph the stronger the  product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

it is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Ok the Colour bus had a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour.

At this juncture it’s time for the bus to stop. So we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

I hope this proves helpful to some .Mike B2MR

 

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