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Category Archives: Blonde shade going darker

Blonde hair colour and hair Dye


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

                 Spring perfect time to think Blonde

Wake up and smell the roses Its Spring. You can you have a natural looking Blonde hair colour Is it maintainable ? Will it damage the condition? Will it look to orange or yellow? All very good questions.

Before considering going blonder or lighter. Have a professional consultation be very careful when considering home Dye especially if you have previous colour on your hair. anything is possible with the right advise and skilled professional working with you. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan. If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you or at least some light tones to brighten you up. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible. Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. Toning down for the fall or autumn! It just takes some forward planning and some patients moving around with shade and tone to create new looks without damage is quite possible.

Mike B2MR

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour make over colour correction


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our tool box of knowledge is full: We also have to have an understanding of hair colour.Different types of hair dye and trust the colour chart.

Lets consider what is a make over and what would be classed as mild correction.

Before I introduce client and stylist, lets share a little history. This young lady is in her teenage years. Like most teenagers experimented  home colour and going Blonde. One day she decided that she would go to a professional stylist and have it taken from being to blonde back to her own colour a basic colour dye job! or so she thought.

The picture to the below is after the salon had to attempts at correcting it back to her own colour. The result being hair with a green Hue know by us professionals as Mud. Why Mud? well when re pigmentation of the hair is required it is essential to re build the hairs natural pigment mantle using the correct shade of dye consulting the colour chart helps. If you don’t do this and apply the incorrect shades and tones the pigments can clash with each other or neutralise each other out causing a muddy colour. Once this has happened it’s really hard to  re balance it.

What happened in this case was an under qualified hairdresser took the job on she applied her natural level as a tint or permanent colour using 6N with 20 volume peroxide with out any thought to pigment missing the effect of adding yet more lift to the hair. no consideration to poor condition, past history and finally the under tone pigment in that level 6N.

A totally mess when it went wrong she then tried toning it with various other shades to kill the green hue hence the mud shade created. she even had the audacity to charge for this total mess. the young girl knew no better than to pay. having been lead to trust this was the best the colour could be!

How do you fix this? Could you?

Well let me introduce to you Kate our client and Alex out stylist:

This really is a challenge. To have the full history of the above hair colour disaster maybe find out what hair dye was used, Alex has to do his consultation with Kate. The key here is for Alex to get as much information a she can about past history and also get a clear idea as to expectation. At this point he has to honestly tell Kate what is possible.This cannot be ego driven it has to be within his own skill and ability. Trust me when i say it takes a bigger person to say sorry this is beyond me than to muddle on. Remember we have already had one professional screw up. As soon as Alex agrees to take this on he assume all responsibility for it. [ strand test, optional client wavier release form, fully advised of process]. Having chatted with Kate two things are established she knows her hair is very over processed and damaged she wants to look and feel better she is open to change both of colour and cut.

Alex goes on to explain  that although the really bad colour in her hair looks dark drab muddy due to the condition it will not last very long and could gentle be removed, they could then either re pigment and go warmer or they could go lighter but with many natural shades.

Alex explains that the first thing they will do is a mild cocktail made from shampoo.Bleach decolouriser. conditioner.and low volume peroxide.This will remove all the muddy pigment and give them a stripped canvas to work from. Kate says sounds like I’m in for a long visit . Alex say well once we see what we can lift out we can see what the best course of action will be for our future colour. Alex say’s don’t worry Kate we can fix this. Your lucky that your  natural skin tone and eye colour leave the door open for colour options. Really says kate never thought of that!

Off to the back wash for the cocktail.

Note whilst Alex is mixing I will insert some information  on a cocktail formulation.

A bleach bath or cocktail formulation:

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

This in itself i class as a colour correction tool, as mild as it is you must stay with it know wondering off for a smoke, a chat a coffee.This is serious stuff!

Alex works the formulation into kate’s hair once whilst applying it warns her it’s a bit cold and bit smelly! you could say that say Kate. Alex gets a wide comb and continually combes the formula  into and through her hair gradually the mixture starts to work it’s lifting. All that mud is going down the drain. After about 20minutes he is happy done he says no we can get going. he rinses a very light shampoo to remove any traces of the formula  cool water .Now he says sitting kate back down we will lightly dry it and decide on course of action.

To the colour and formulation: Thus far i very impressed with the skill Alex is showing and professional approach. We have now removed all that muddy un-wanted pigment Alex has a better idea of what is possible so he has a better vision to share with Kate. How serious is she about change? Alex says to Kate as you can see we have removed all that muddy colour. Kate says yes i back where i started but ££ pounds lighter. Right says Alex lets establish two things colour and style. Right he says with some authority I see it fair bit shorter but with texture and movement.

Colour wise lets work with the blonde, but re introduce shades that work with you, let beige this out with caramels, toffee, cool blondes and burnt honey golds. WOW ! Says Kate you can do that, Yes we can it will look great how does it sound to you amazing. Ok say’s Alex given how over processed your hair is all we have to do is deposit different shades and buildup the pigment long term work on the colour retention.I can recommend some products to help both with moisiture in your hair and colour retention qualities if you like great says Kate.

Lets get going. You ready says Alex!  First thing i’m going to do is cut a fair bit of hair off we don’t need to colour all this waste time money and product .Out comes the razor and things start to take shape. Once the bulk of the weight has been removed and shape formed. Alex, say’s to Kate feel good yes say’s Kate. Right now lets sort out this colour bear with me whilst i mix up some Formulations.

Whilst Alex is Mixing I will share with you the Different formulations:

Demi Deposit Only: Tone on tone or darker lift or higher levels of Hydrogen peroxide are not required! Remember we are going for deposit Only this over processed hair does not need any more peroxide and lift.

First Colour level 6 BR[Beige Red] remember first letter dictates stronger shade. In this choice Alex is choosing a rich beige shade but also re introducing some warm pigment back in to the hair,a wise choice. 1oz[30 grams] 6RB 2oz [60grams]  demi lotion developer. Second choice 7 GB [gold beige] again more re introduction of pigment quantity as above 1 part colour to 2 parts Demi lotion. Final choice 6B just beige will have a stronger depth than other choices.formulation as above. These are all none progressive colour formulations no need to worryabout over deposit.

Back with Alex. He explains to Kate we are going to re introduce three different shades into your hair and at the same time replace some of the warmer pigments this will give depth and tone.At the same time we will leave out some chunks of the existing blonde we will tone this later to create a nicely controlled Beige blonde that will compliment the look and style. sounds great says Kate.Oh Alex says we are also going to use the same shade sin panels in the under part of your hair to create some depth and dimension. lets get going with all these colours.

Alex works quickly with great skill we weaves out different section choosing where to place the shades and panels. Once finished he takes section from the base hair line applying the different shades in solid blocks. working from the hair line nape up to just below the occipital bone jaw line just above the ears. thus creating solid block area of three shades. leaving out the lighter chunks of pre lifted hair in the top section.

Finally all applied leaves it to process around 20 minutes no heat required!! [Heat is not good for colour, it’s not needed colouring is a process of fromulation and timing] all that is required is the correct choice of products and patients!

After 20 minutes Alex takes kate to the back wash rinse of all colour .Then decides to apply a Beige toner to control the Blonde that was left out and tie the beige theme into together. As he works the Toner into Kate’s  hair he stays with it as it starts to work on the yellow blonde  sections creating a really nice cool natural beige. Done re rinsed shampooed  conditioned ready for a little more razor work and a blow dry.

Well what a great job Alex managed to save the day and Kate looks amazing i hope you agree that this was a job well done. As for Kate well happy does not even cover the emotion she felt and how pleased she was.

Service,Consultation,skill.knowledge. without these this would not have been possible so how can we help you? what can we do for you? she left armed with the right products to maintain both new colour and condition. Committed to never making the same costly mistake again with either Home Hair dye or an un skilled stylist.

Mike B2MR [names of stylist and client have been changed]

 

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Blonde issues and thoughts


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Time to move on lets look at Blonde hair colouring issues :

Lets start with a case study of Highlights and low lights  [lift and deposit] This in it self can create many issues both from a technical stance and from a client stylist relationship point of view. Many years of experience have shown me that when a client is unhappy with her blonde hair the maintenance required and yes the cost things can start to go down hill on the communication front.

Let me introduce to you our client Emily and our Stylist Ted.

Emily has long hair and is a natural level 6 [mouse/rat] she loves being blonde but over time feels that she has lost the highlighted look that she so loved and that the maintenance and cost is starting to become an issue an condition is starting to be a worry!

The consultation: Ted sit down with Emily and off the bat say’s you have no idea how many young women like your self i have this conversation with. Just how common place this issue is. But don’t worry it’s fixable today and maintainable for the future. Oh really says Emily that is so good to hear I was worried that was future was turning very dark! Does this look ring any bells with you as a stylist? Back with. Ted he begins to explain that over time sadly the highlighted look can get lost it’s a mixture of a few factors, some responsibility for this falls with you the client some with us stylist’s. Yes he say’s not perfect just trying to be! They both laugh another good sign.

Firstly says Ted. I agree that Blonde works well for you you have the perfect natural base shade the problem is over time you and your stylist have allowed your hair to get to blonde. It has lost any any depth and tone and just become a bleached highlighted look.You see say’s Ted the lighter we allow you hair to the quicker the roots will appear. It’s not intentionally done it creeps up. But it’s my opinion that we as stylist’s owe it you as our clients to be honest and some times draw the line when it comes to letting you go blonder and blonder!  Ted goes on to say. We have to explain to you what we think is best.You may not always listen or like what you hear, but hey you are paying me for my professional advise as well as my skill. Wow say’s Emily that’s a first no one have ever told me all that.

Well here is what we are going to do.

Firstly only Highlight the top half of your head and this will be some highlights to keep you blonde and we will re introduce two other shades.One shade at your natural level and a nice Beige to pull it all together. we will then fill in all the under section of your hair taking it back to your own colour. Ted explains that the darker under section will look more natural and look way better when Emily put her hair up. Emily says sounds great lets do it!

A Formulation for this: 

Roots 1oz [30 grams ] Bleach powder with 2oz [60 grams] 2o Volume peroxide.This will be used on the weaved highlights but only on the roots and with a slight over lap to prevent banding.

Second formulation is two mixtures:

8N with 30 Volume. Why more lift but the pigmentation of the 8N will control the yellow orange we will expose making it a nice beige.1oz 8N  11/2 oz 30 volume peroxide roots only Mid lengths and ends 8B Demi lotion formulation mixing ration 1oz 8B to 2oz Demi lotion developer for mid lengths and ends so we are in effect lifting and depositing at the same time.[ mark your bowls so you don’t mix them up] Final Formulation 6B as a Demi formulation  for deposit only this is also the shade we will run through the under section again no lift just deposit. 2oz 6B 4oz Demi lotion developer enough to do both the low light and go straight in to the under section application. Making full use of your time and not wasting product.

Once all the formulations mixed up Ted sets to work. Oh says Emily you don’t use foil no say’s Ted I like these waxed papers they stay much closer to the roots they don’t slip less pain when i take them out! Oh i like the sound of that says Emily, it’s always painful.Not today says Ted! Once all done the process time will be dependent on the last few Highlights we have put in says Ted. But don’t worry I stared at the front so they will be a little blonder and we will not lift the crown as much. the Darker shade is none progressive so stops once it reached desired colour. So all good be patient no heat but will not be to long. they wait the out come.

Ted checks the progress a couple of times and after 30 Minutes it ready to come off he takes all the papers out and then rinses very quickly holding the highlighted hair away from the darker underneath once it’s all rinsed of colour it’s a normal shampoo and conditioning process.

Remember those dark roots that line of demarcation? All gone and blended in. Now we have a very natural looking Blonde with highlights and low lights to tone it down and control the root issue. Emily say’s she is so happy it’s the best it’s been is such a long time. Ted says leave it as long as possible our goal is to get you coming back every three months. Why are not all hairdresser like you most say 6 weeks are says Ted. Here is the deal you like your hair you tell your friends you and your friends and their friends keep me busy  to the point that i can only see you every three months!Oh says Emily i see  me and my friends keep you busy I hope so says Ted.

Oh and as for the under section check this out! As a form of re colouring and depositing pigment I cannot express enough what a wonderful gentle formulation a Demi application is. It will give even depth and tone without the need for and lift. Its a satin finish that loos so natural. give it a try. I think that as stylists we have so many options choices of technique and products at our disposal, we are truly very lucky. Oh and having great clients helps. We have so many issues that can arise when working with our clients to create that natural blonde look to maintain it.The key is communication and honesty. Our clients will always push to be that little bit blonder it’s up to us as professional to some times to pull the reins in to prevent future issues.

What are these issues, They normal arise from over processing, poor condition, colour fading. longevity of colour lasting, leading to cost issues. Always keep your client on track be open about maintenance issues cost of up keep. Remember your the professional your in control.

As promised some extra views and thoughts on some Blonde hair issues 

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair,  badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms. Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice. All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

                             blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is    it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider.  The above is a perfect balance of high lights and low lights a very natural multi-tonal look.

Well we are having a very varied day and lets be honest the time needed to deal with all these issues is quite considerable. But with all the knowledge we had and all the new knowledge we have we should be coping very well.

enjoy Mike B2MR

 

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Low lights and multi tonal shades


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low light colour: A technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades with going unduly light:

How can one create these looks?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that need for in depth consultation both parties if using a professional stylist or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required. The target colour and then tones and shades being used. Again this is so dependant on starting point previous history.

We will use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde.

One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured or never processed hair. The Look tends to to work well on a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair. In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots. For the sake of this lets not go to complicated. We will presume grown out Highlights and low lights.This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is. Creating a lighter brighter look, lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very light or bright bright ends. Known as ‘Ombre technique’

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colourwould be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer. I might suggest on our pre-coloured hair using three different levels of ‘Bleach decolouriser’ fading them into each other. How? You may ask. Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions

.2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to. You may had have to use a toner to blend.

1*Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

2*Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade desired or required. If going darker you will not require a formulation to lift this will only introduce unwanted warmth! For tone on tone or darker hair deposit only use a Demi formulation.

If wanting to go lighter or richer  or for more vibrant colours some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history and choice of shades and tones. Again play with both colour or shade choice and level of peroxide. Just remember as you increase the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment or warmth you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! Yes a balancing act. Caution: Over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour! 10 volume would bring out the required pigment with out over lifting.

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair. I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice. Here is my choice and suggestion.Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play. How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

My choice would be 8A or 9A Why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time, think through both. Timing, application, formulation. Use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique. You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation. Remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area.Two different formulation on each weave. Have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results.

Mike B2MR

 

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A complimentary hair colour for you


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments

Getting the shade that compliments your skin tone, eye colour the one that  makes you feel good and look good !. Makes you look and feel special. Finding that perfect match takes skill it takes a trained eye a trained professional. As stylist we have a service to perform when it comes to consultation. That role is to give the client the best advise we can.Create that look chose and recommend and advise the best colour or colours the right shade and tones that will work and are flattering for our clients. The real  skill is listening to what the client  want’s but also advising on what really works. Honesty and caring.

That colour. That look with the wow factor! Those colours shades and tones  that make the eyes pop! The face come alive!   

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown, Grey blue or dark blue, hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks.

skin tone: very dark brown, true olive (most Asians and Latinos) medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks, medium with golden undertones, pale with no color in cheeks,pale with pink undertones,brown or bronze when you tan.

Natural hair colour: blue black,deepest coffee brown,medium ash brown,medium golden brown dishwater blonde,salt and pepper, white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown, green, green blue or turquoise, hazel with gold or brown flecks.

skin tone: brown with pink undertone, brown with golden undertone, pale with peach or gold undertones, freckled.

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red, strawberry blonde,Grey with a yellow cast,natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden  blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair.

Is change possible one that can still look great yes of course! the two warm shots are the same person different colour and different looks but both work with all the points we have addressed here.

See a previous blog. On natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

The key here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you! Says. This is me. Individual stunning stylish!

All possible with patients, faith and a willingness for change!! Hairdressers we play a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special. We have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. To work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style. To be innovative creative passionate about what we do.

MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

Natural darker hair to sun kissed natural tones .


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural form of High – Low Lights:

Whilst chatting with the Coffee barrister recently about her hair, she informed me that she does like to lighten her hair but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue. She is of Asian decent, naturally very dark shade and tone hence the pigment issues. In a perfect world she would like caramel sun kissed shades beige maybe even golden blonde . Is this possible? lets see.

Issues around lifting naturally dark hair shades:

The shade you get when using a lighter shade on darker hair comes from lift generated by the peroxide in the product a apart of the formulation. Very little colour change takes place and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment you have exposed leaving an unwanted tone. This would be the case if we were dealing with Natural or virgin hair of a natural level of 5 and darker.However if the hair has been previously coloured remember you cannot lift colour with colour!

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. Sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1,2,3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. {We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights: That sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair. We have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it! During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come. You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                        Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

                            { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                          High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT? Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

                                 Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!.

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

                                           Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights: Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.
                 Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing! Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour! have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 

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