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Category Archives: brunette to Blonde

Blonde hair colour and hair Dye


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

                 Spring perfect time to think Blonde

Wake up and smell the roses Its Spring. You can you have a natural looking Blonde hair colour Is it maintainable ? Will it damage the condition? Will it look to orange or yellow? All very good questions.

Before considering going blonder or lighter. Have a professional consultation be very careful when considering home Dye especially if you have previous colour on your hair. anything is possible with the right advise and skilled professional working with you. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan. If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you or at least some light tones to brighten you up. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible. Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. Toning down for the fall or autumn! It just takes some forward planning and some patients moving around with shade and tone to create new looks without damage is quite possible.

Mike B2MR

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Red Copper hair dye and colours maintaining them.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                        Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

Be it home hair dye.professional colour good reds and copper hair colours are possible work with a stylist who understands colour the issues hair chart and will work with you on your hair dye issues.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools. Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone. The more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play, we achieve this with the correct choice of peroxide the lifting agent that exposes the pigment we want to use. But even this is a balance to much lift will remove the red and orange, so depending on the vibrancy required we choose the strength of peroxide to expose the pigment we want. unless we are going tone on tone as the swatch is to the right the no lift is required just deposit.

Lets Introduce Dawn our client and Russell her stylist.

Dawn loves to play around with levels of and tones of red and coppers. I many cases this does not always turn out with good results it can sometimes fade quite quickly. Dawn again in their consultation explains to Russell that she has enjoyed being a lighter more copper shade over the summer but wants to know if she can go darker over the winter months. she also want a change of style.

Russell explains that this is possible and that it will not restrict going lighter in the future. He goes on to explain that although the roots would need a permanent colour formulation the rest can be done with a Demi permanent colour formulation. This allows for better colour retention and will allow for a switch back to a lighter or more vibrant colour in the future.

During the consultation with Russell. Dawn mentions that the Grey seems to be getting progressively worse. Russell explains that when natural red or copper hair starts to go Grey or lose it’s pigment it tends to look more salt and pepper this can make it look dull. However the up side is that although not as vibrant in it’s appearance it still has a great deal of gold pigment so receives colour more readily and is still quite easy to get target colour. Dawn has about 25% Grey hair per 2 inch section. This would require that 25% of the root formulation be on the N series at the desired level. Finally Dawn also say’s that although she wants to go darker and more solid it must still work with her skin tone and eye colour. Russell say’s that he totally agrees and that so long as we keep the colour warm and don’t go to dark it will not be problem.

As a note once you go darker than a level 5 you are getting more into brown shades due to the amount of blue pigment found in the colour. Russell brings over a few chosen swatches from the shade chart holding then against her face showing Dawn how the colours work with her skin tone and eye colour. They agree on a level 5 shade with a red almost brunette tone. Dawn say’s she is ready for a change and says thank you for all the explanations.

Down to the colour choice.

Although the target is a level five to use a level 5 formulation would be to dark. Given the percentage of Grey of 25% 5N will provide the pigment for the Grey issue and give the colour depth. The rest of the roots formulation 6RB {red beige} 75% , plus 20 volume peroxide

Mixing ratio 1 part colour to 11/2  times peroxide or mixing 7.5 grams 5N+ 22.5 grams 6RB or 1oz. to 45 grams 20 volume peroxide or1 1/2 oz [30 grams =1 oz]

A little technical i hope not!

The reason behind this would be the 5N provide the pigment and controls the warmth exposed by the peroxide [no hot roots] the 6RB gives depth and tone. To colour balance once the root application has been applied the colour application mid lengths to ends,  just 6RB with a Demi formulation deposit only left on for 20 minutes. After full processing time again off to the back wash fro shampoo and conditioning

.

Remember this was a colour request to address both Grey issues and take the colour darker with an even colour healthy colour, no hot roots or line of demarcation.

Russell sits with Dawn and explains that to colour her roots is a fine balance of using the N series to colour the Grey. But not wanting it to be drab or dulled down warmth has to be kept. One of the dangers Russell explains this is something known as Hot roots! we see them all the time. Sadly done by professionals as well as the at home when using home hair dye applications. It’s caused by to much lift at the roots this brings out to much natural red/orange pigment and lifts the roots to much creating a very bright line. Known as hot roots. In reality it’s a formulation lacking blue pigment.

Above first shots a before shot showing hot root issue dark ends. Below new colour showing rich dark vibrant even colour with textured razor cut.

Remember the Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker.Careful regular maintenance is essential.use of good shampoo and condition at home is also highly recommended. stylist should recommend home hair care retail advise. Finally a happy smiling clients says it all. job well done

Some tips on hot and cool reds,vibrant coppers:

Is it seasonable reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours. When we think of reds their are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour

choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients Hair. All food for thought? but we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on  tone, to go Darker to lighter the key is to A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain  what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun. use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race.

Using this  method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. Consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job! Discuss with your client a long term plan and vision that allows for change and creativity.

All shots below and above the same model so change is possible so is long term client retention and relationships!

 

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Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
 

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A complimentary hair colour for you


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments

Getting the shade that compliments your skin tone, eye colour the one that  makes you feel good and look good !. Makes you look and feel special. Finding that perfect match takes skill it takes a trained eye a trained professional. As stylist we have a service to perform when it comes to consultation. That role is to give the client the best advise we can.Create that look chose and recommend and advise the best colour or colours the right shade and tones that will work and are flattering for our clients. The real  skill is listening to what the client  want’s but also advising on what really works. Honesty and caring.

That colour. That look with the wow factor! Those colours shades and tones  that make the eyes pop! The face come alive!   

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown, Grey blue or dark blue, hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks.

skin tone: very dark brown, true olive (most Asians and Latinos) medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks, medium with golden undertones, pale with no color in cheeks,pale with pink undertones,brown or bronze when you tan.

Natural hair colour: blue black,deepest coffee brown,medium ash brown,medium golden brown dishwater blonde,salt and pepper, white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown, green, green blue or turquoise, hazel with gold or brown flecks.

skin tone: brown with pink undertone, brown with golden undertone, pale with peach or gold undertones, freckled.

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red, strawberry blonde,Grey with a yellow cast,natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden  blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair.

Is change possible one that can still look great yes of course! the two warm shots are the same person different colour and different looks but both work with all the points we have addressed here.

See a previous blog. On natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

The key here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you! Says. This is me. Individual stunning stylish!

All possible with patients, faith and a willingness for change!! Hairdressers we play a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special. We have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. To work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style. To be innovative creative passionate about what we do.

MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

Natural darker hair to sun kissed natural tones .


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Low Lights: The most natural form of High – Low Lights:

Whilst chatting with the Coffee barrister recently about her hair, she informed me that she does like to lighten her hair but like so many has an issues with lifting beyond that orange brown hue. She is of Asian decent, naturally very dark shade and tone hence the pigment issues. In a perfect world she would like caramel sun kissed shades beige maybe even golden blonde . Is this possible? lets see.

Issues around lifting naturally dark hair shades:

The shade you get when using a lighter shade on darker hair comes from lift generated by the peroxide in the product a apart of the formulation. Very little colour change takes place and in most cases these products do not have enough pigment to control the pigment you have exposed leaving an unwanted tone. This would be the case if we were dealing with Natural or virgin hair of a natural level of 5 and darker.However if the hair has been previously coloured remember you cannot lift colour with colour!

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind. Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shade lighter than our natural base shade that add dimension tone and shine a really natural look. 

In so many cases a client will ask for low lights that  give a few shades of lift for a natural look. However on so many occasions.They can end up with a bleach decolouriser cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment or toner to control the lift. Why can this occur?  How does this happen. Poor consultation. Sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural hair level 1,2,3,4,5 These are what would normally be considered as the darker shades. Brown through to Dark brown even black: {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. {We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange!}

To create Low lights: That sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair. We have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it! During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.  This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come. You cannot lift colour with colour!! So if a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using  a high lift blonde formulation will not work.

                        Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour:

                            { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are}

My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is

                          High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates  that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  DOES THE PRODUCT? Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

                                 Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required { heat can be very bad in the colour process} It can cause bleeds due to product expansion. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will  create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7.

As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light. The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed!.

The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

                                           Multi shades very natural looking:

Low lights: Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour.
                 Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing!

Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing! Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour! have fun let me know how you get on!

Mike B2MR

 

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