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Category Archives: colouring Grey hair

Professional Hair colour dye the N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional hair colour or hair dye! what role does the N series have in colour choice and formulation? It is the opinion of Some hair colourist and or technicians that “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well. For me and many real professionalthat is not the case I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  

When you think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? Do you pull out that shade chart? do you use it correctly? Do you trust it? Do you do your own thing? Do you blame the product when colour goes wrong? Do you use it to refer to or in some cases do you just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! [ you may be smiling it happens] more often than you might think!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment. how it works how what you chose decides the out come the formulation you mix!

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. it’s main job is to deliver natural pigment and control the pigment exposed at the level you are working in.In other words be calibrated to deal with unwanted pigment and warmth.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour/dye Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! Hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue you have created. So what do you need? Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. You have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. You have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it. Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. A Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose, how do i control it! It’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level! So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you! when things go wrong consider what formulation you mixed what you expected from your choice . Most colour lines hair dyes that get change din salons are really down to poor technical ability and not the product. Poor formulation assessment and timing.

A poor Colourist / technician or stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! Education skill knowledge .Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise! have fun. Be professional. Be responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Challenge your self and those around you raise standards.

Herbal and organic colours and dyes.

It would not be fair of me to not mention that the same rules apply when using organic and herbal hair colour s and dyes. When they are Ammonia free the processes is still the same. The alkaline has been replaced by something normally sourced from wheat so a gain alcohol derivative becomes the driver in place of the ammonia in most cases the results as the same. The role the  N series plays in these colour lines would be the same. refinement of colour and addressing Grey issues.

Mike B2MR

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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
 

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A complimentary hair colour for you


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments

Getting the shade that compliments your skin tone, eye colour the one that  makes you feel good and look good !. Makes you look and feel special. Finding that perfect match takes skill it takes a trained eye a trained professional. As stylist we have a service to perform when it comes to consultation. That role is to give the client the best advise we can.Create that look chose and recommend and advise the best colour or colours the right shade and tones that will work and are flattering for our clients. The real  skill is listening to what the client  want’s but also advising on what really works. Honesty and caring.

That colour. That look with the wow factor! Those colours shades and tones  that make the eyes pop! The face come alive!   

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown, Grey blue or dark blue, hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks.

skin tone: very dark brown, true olive (most Asians and Latinos) medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks, medium with golden undertones, pale with no color in cheeks,pale with pink undertones,brown or bronze when you tan.

Natural hair colour: blue black,deepest coffee brown,medium ash brown,medium golden brown dishwater blonde,salt and pepper, white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown, green, green blue or turquoise, hazel with gold or brown flecks.

skin tone: brown with pink undertone, brown with golden undertone, pale with peach or gold undertones, freckled.

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red, strawberry blonde,Grey with a yellow cast,natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden  blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair.

Is change possible one that can still look great yes of course! the two warm shots are the same person different colour and different looks but both work with all the points we have addressed here.

See a previous blog. On natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

The key here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you! Says. This is me. Individual stunning stylish!

All possible with patients, faith and a willingness for change!! Hairdressers we play a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special. We have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. To work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style. To be innovative creative passionate about what we do.

MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


 

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If your hair colour goes badly wrong. what to do!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges between myself and a client.

This is such a contentious subject:

A never ending issue for so many women. I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange.

Below have posted the question raised in dark solid type. and have tried to respond to the question raised this.This was a real situation and exchange of idea’s with someone who contacted me on line via this blog.

                         lets look at this issue together

Text from Initial article:

Question:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your! Was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair. Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it or some other Alkaline. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia.It just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way. If you are mixing two products together  then the chances are you are still using peroxide in your formulation and so permanent hair colour.

                                        over processed dull lifeless

Client Reply:

Wow! Thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

My Reply:

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth into account,the question becomes? Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.

Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue that being. Roots or re growth that have never been previously coloured and mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. In this case different formulation will be required,one to lift and deposit on the root area. One just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade Isuggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

The above shot is a god example of going lighter over time from an all over permanent solid shade. It also allows for the issue of Grey hair,In this instance by introducing over time different shades of lowlights with out the need for bleaching.We are embracing the grey issue working with it.Over time the hair is in better condition and the time between needing colour service is extended.

You might think odd why would you want to see a client less often? Good point but because she is so happy this client recommends more of her friends they keep my busy .In real terms i am growing my business by being honest and giving great service.

Try it It’s not always about the 4 or 6 week ticket it is about re booking in a time frame that works for each and every client be it 4 weeks 6 weeks or 8weeks!

                                    Healthy natural looking colour

The above model was having highlights every 5 to 6 weeks .It was to Blonde damaged over processed.Now with low lighting and highlighting she has her roots done only on the top a big T section every 3 months the rest is natural .She is very happy!

hope this helps you.

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

 

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Misinformation Hair colour product knowledge


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

What is written in the heavy print is my view of course only my view!! However I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material in the public domaine.

Always research don’t trust all that you read as being correct knowledge is power  a little knowledge is dangerous! Stay informed current up to date have high standards and expect nothing less from those around you!

Lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR

Permanent Colour:

Permanent colour gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations and in maybe an extreme case! In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application. Issues with excess warmth will occur using 40 vol developer! 

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available always find out what the alkaline is in your colour!

Semi-Permanent Colour:

Colour usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Colour:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle for slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Colour:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Colour Rinse:

Colour lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                      1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLOURED HAIR CARE TIPS

Coloured and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun. Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

SHAMPOO COLOUR ENHANCERS:

Use colour enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

Personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

 

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Natural Herbal organic hair colour.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

If MEA has bee around for so long how is it such a new innovation? Is it just a re hash of another type of alkaline? We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many ‘Ammonia free products’ without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional? just because it’s say’s ‘Herbal’ and has a natural plant extract photo on the box does not make it healthier than anything else.

Lets be clear it’s marketing.It’s selling you what you are being conditioned to ask for!

The question I ask is simple. Is it really a new innovation? Is it really any less harmful than Ammonia? Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  Also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. 

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain good colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

                                                 See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no replyI have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?


Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

Mike, I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

Months later product never arrived so cannot give any up date.I still await an organic hair colour company to provide some product to try and education material that is open and transparent in both chemistry use and expectation/final results.

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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