RSS

Category Archives: colouring Grey hair

Alkalinity and Ph. The process of hair colouring.


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         

As Hairdressers when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in. Spend some time reading the technical manual in the colour chart know and trust your product.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the same in Semi or Demi colour but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an alkaline it can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. 

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research! I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

                                       review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart: When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss, the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

                               Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

Ok a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour. Now we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful
MikeB2MR
 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

New style new look cut colour reds and coppers


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When we think of red hair colours tones and shades there are just so many shades to choose from. Hot reds, Warm controlled reds. Copper shades all the way through to cool blue mauve reds.

The red shades are the hardest to get to last the hardest to keep that rich true colour. why? because of the size of the colour molecule. Either we have to open the cuticle to much or the colour acts like a stain on the outer surface of the hair and it washes out. Finally the hair is over processed before we start. wrong formulation. many issues.

The rule is hardest to get into the hair last to come out!

Choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide the correct formulation are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients hair to give depth and longevity to colour. If we use to higher volume of peroxide we can lift the hair to much lifting out any red or orange and giving us a yellow orange pigment base. Always consider target colour and what will be exposed in the lifting process.

                      Faded dull with Grey root issue

All food for thought? We also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance on mid lengths and ends. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem. Then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage how much of our N series might be required.

Hot roots are normally caused by lack of N natural series or formulation incorrect the volume of peroxide and lift required high the volume the more lift, so more warmth exposed. Whats required? A controlling green or blue base if to bright.With these examples of red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model. oh and no hot roots! even colour rot to tip balanced.

                        Rich vibrant even colour root to end

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages. Work up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on tone. To go Darker to lighter the key is to use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race. Using this method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise.

A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun.

Consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job!

Take into account any issues during the consultation Grey issues can be resolved so you don’t have a thin deposit or  hot roots . Remember Grey issues will require some amount of the N natural series in the root formulation the level of peroxide you choose is the other deciding factor.

The model above to the right  has a Grey issue but as you can see a rich vibrant even colour is possible

As you can see from these last shots. all new same model new  deeper richer red almost brunette shade.  Why? Well as we are dealing with a little more Grey a to vibrant  copper could cause it to  look thin and with a possible bright roots issue. A razor cut to create texture and movement no scissors used also added more texture with my claw finger razor’s.

I hope that is article is helpful and that it creates thought about lift deposit and target colour. Remember consider the issues and the environment you are working on.

 It is possible over time to take reds and indeed solid brunette lighter it’s best done with patient and a clear vision and understanding of process and final look or goal. above is on the way to the shade we are trying to reach.

Goal a light copper honey shade that will enable us to highlight and get away from a solid colour and the issue of roots because of the amount of grey hair.

The final look and colour we worked together for it’s a journey but well worth while I hope that this has been helpful and instructive as always comments views thoughts

Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Extra thoughts on. Lift deposit shade tone


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

PEA IN YOUR HAIR COLOUR:

Not a thing i might consider! But following on from recent posting a re visit to a topic that I have covered a number of times but one that I think generates much attention raises many questions.

Recently I came a cross some advise suggesting the following:

When doing High lift Blonde if you have an issue with. to much Natural gold pigment being exposed during the lifting process add a pea sized amount of 1N! Whilst i can understand the thinking behind this… I would class this type of advise One. For advanced colour technicians. Two  as a last resort. I would like to explain why. Personally to do this i would have to be out of all other options and or our of colour!

First and foremost I advocate when working out a formulation to either weigh or measure product so it can be repeated or accurately changed . Oh and save’s product wastage.

So advise like pea size is rather unquantified. How big is any given pea?  It’s a little like formulation i see in some instances with a squidge!  How much is that? How much is a squeeze? You get the idea.

Moving on High lift Blonde is designed for lifting Natural hair level 6 to 9  if target colour is a desired level of natural looking Blonde. Any level Darker than a level 5 will not give desired lift and you will have unwanted pigment issues. You may need to lift with a Bleach decolourizer then tone.

When lifting with a normal High lift Blonde formulation from a level 6  with a target colour of a natural level 9 .

We have to lift  through level 6 into level 7 and 8 then lifting or controlling pigment at our level 9

In terms of pigment exposed this is as follows.

level 6  Red/orange

level 7  Orange

level 8  Orange/yellow

level 9 Yellow

These are the pigments we expose and expect to see when lift from a level 6 with a High lift formulation

Normally with a High lift the mixing ratio is 1 part Colour to 2 part 40 vol Developer.

The higher level of developer is to achieve the required lift with a development time for lift and deposit of 50 Minutes. [ heat does not accelerate this formulation or timing]

As we can see from above information if we have an issue with unwanted gold pigment being exposed we have an issue with either the natural level we started from or the formulation/timing.

To Much Gold suggest’s not enough lift. What we can do ? Is a Natural controlled blonde shade attainable? Of course it is. We have to look at our formula an address the issue of Pigment exposed and how to control it. Consult your shade chart and your colour wheel.

Yellow Orange would denote or present as Gold hue so to control one would need a Blue /violet formulation to address and or tone .This can be seen both on the basic colour wheel above or the provided pigment correction chart. I would agin suggest if Gold pigment is the issue then you have only lifted then hair to a level 8 exposing the pigment at that level.

Easy to solve give it some thought think the process through it’s all about balance of pigment.

Consider this.

Level 8 has a Yellow/Orange pigment showing as                Gold or Y+RY= Gold

Level 8 pigment lacking to restore balance and tone             B+BR= Blue/violet.

 How does this work for it’s a basic colour equation.We all know that our primary colour are Red/yellow Blue it’s a balance of these shades at any given level that give us our natural levels or N series.

When we lift hair exposing pigment  we strive to restore that balance of R+Y+B= N natural! yes it’s that easy. Do have questions  about this ? feel free to post

In closing the suggestion of 1N pea sized! would be because of the pigment making up that said shade being that Dark at IN  It is a predominately. Blue based shade with Blue Red Blue. This agin gives us Blue violet tone. But in a rather unorthodox way! It is also worth a mention that with some of the new products that are colour additive accelerants are used they will increase the process time. But it’s worth considering. If the process will the speed up. Will it allow for full pigment development needed to control pigment exposed in the lifting process? Just a thought.

I do hope this is helpful as always before trying anything suggested on line take some time to think it through ask questions. Discuss with fellow professionals.

Mike B2MR

http://back2myroots.co.uk/

 

Tags: , , , ,

Natural hair colour Pigment lift and tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

As a follow on from the posting yesterday on the N series a more technical look at the issue.

Natural hair colour and trying to recreate it can be a challenge for some why? It’s that balance between pigment lift and tone. Chosen colour formulation and timing.

Patient’s and knowledge, skill, honestly, caring,

As a stylist do you  understand the ‘Law of Color’ ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don’t need to know or understand the law’s of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.

Hair color is an art.  The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color  are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?

When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is color?

Color is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color

There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always

The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.

They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 

The secondary colors:

Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination’s. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.

Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:

You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.

A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.

It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.

A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.

This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.

So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.

Good luck Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Permanent hair colour The N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking” Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !

  

When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Be it to refer to or in some cases,do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! Do we understand what we can learn how to use the chart correctly? Have we read the technical manual with it? Do we understand it !

[ you may be smiling it happens]

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. over use of the n series in a colour formulation can and will drab out your colour! Under use in a formulation can result in hot roots!

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. Back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it? The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose how do i control it! it’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

Please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you.

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control

the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.

Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , , , , ,

solid copper to honey blonde


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

I am re posting this but with an update on the final look having worked together over the past year to grow length and change colour form the solid  first seen to a honey copper with some blonde tones. please re read article and see final results.

It will show that will patients and communication any thing is possible.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Well this past week end was crunch time.

When we have been working with a client for a long time building up trust and mutual respect  Some times we have to take a step back especially as issues change. Maybe those percentage of Grey hair, overall look and style.

You may well have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.

Well sadly as the Grey is creeps in as re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.

Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.

As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it’s my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.

I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don’t slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it’s breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.

Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.

Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.

I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.

The process:

From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

                       hi lite wraps at work right to root

The advantages of the Hi lite wrap These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section’s is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.

When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

Finally the look we set out to create low maintenance colour that could be achieved with highlights and low lights without going to blonde or using to much bleach decolouriser. As you have read to start with we had to use a bleach to lift out colour and give an even light tone  as per shots above.

Now we are able to use level 9 tones to create a honey gold and also copper warm tones as a low light. Using 20 vol peroxide and colour balancing utilising the hair’s natural pigment.

We are now only having to colour every 8 to 10 weeks instead of every 4 to 5, better condition of the hair softer look gained client through recommendation. It’s a win win the client is in less but her friends are keeping me just as busy and guess what ? they also have friends.

Final look soft honey blonde and light copper with no Grey root issue. 

I supply this information on this colour journey i hope you agree that the colour change and added length are a great example of stylist and client working together trusting each other mutual respect communication.

And a very long way from this colour and look! when we first started out client stylist colour journey.  Mike B2MR

 

Tags: , , , ,

Grey hair: questions answers to the age old issue!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

 Grey Hair:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must Go.

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

The challenges for the stylist are correct assessment of the Grey hair percentage on the head during the consultation process. Type of hair, fine course ect. Formulation required. client’s goals expectation.Ongoing maintenance! Lots to be considered and discussed.

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?

Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. The social stigma grey hair indicates old age!

Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

 What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}

Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.

It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey.

Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.

Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.

As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.

The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.

That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.

I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.

“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned”

 and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey

 they have the most horrible patches of it.

Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey

and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another

approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into

the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you

are mad when you suggest this.

             Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           

Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.

In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation.

As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote

 Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂

 

Tags: , , , ,

 
%d bloggers like this: