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Category Archives: colouring Grey hair

semi permanent colour and other options


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Semi Permanent Hair Colour:

Mousse, gels. Demi, permanent,

When we think about semi permanent colour we naturally assume slow wash out or fade maybe 6 to 8 washes up to 6 weeks. That’s what is says on the box or what we lead to believe not always the case!

In reality we have to consider so many things be it in the salon or at home? What we expect from this colour .What is my hair condition is it advisable?

Are we going tone on tone? Are we considering putting a darker shade than our natural level not a great deal is achieved putting lighter over darker!

If putting a cool Red {blue red} over say Blonde as it fades a pinkish, purple, hue could be left. bright true Red could fade leaving {red orange} hue.

The porosity of your own hair plays a part in how these colours may deposit. How long they last and how they fade, as well as the chemical make up of the product.

Buyer beware!

A product that is promoted as being semi permanent can still have ingredients in the formulation to open the cuticle and help with the deposit of the said colour.

This is not ammonia you can change the Ph thus opening the cuticle with money alkaline products shampoo can change the environment. Detergent/soaps, alcohol These will open the cuticle thus allowing stains to deposit slightly deeper into the hair.

It will over time create staining. It will slowly build up after prolonged use.

Hair in it’s normal state has a ph 0f 5.5 Anything raising or changing this level,this environment. Will open the cuticle to some degree. Some so called semi permanent might change the ph to as much as ph of 7!!!

In some cases they can leave behind trace chemical residue the same can be so of the mousse colour refreshing products Reds. Blondes.They can leave behind trace elements that build up and can effect professional colour applications.

In some cases they can effect the deposit of professional colour creating banding issues or poor deposit. see article on shampoo with colour pigments added.

 As a stylists always consultation it’s the key to a successful out come:

How many of you have cried their eyes out! after a colour has gone wrong? Been close to shaving your head after unfortunate choice of hair colour? Hands up! Yes ? With hair the colour of scrambled eggs…Dying your hair is not as easy as the adverts make it out to be.  I am not talking about the technique! Just the many things to take into account when considering hair colour both product and desired effect! 

It’s product choice.  It’s hair condition. It’s history of the hair previous colour. It’s application. It’s formulation. It’s timing. Oh did i mention skill and knowledge training?

The question arises:

I have coloured my hair it’s the wrong shade what can i do? Was it one tube or bottle or a mix pack?

When you applied the color did you mix 2 things together?  Was it a twist the top asking that you shake 2 suspended liquids together or were you able to apply it straight from the bottle with out mixing anything?

If you mixed 2 things you used a long lasting semi permanent, or what the pro’s call a Demi permanent. They usually contain a very low volume of peroxide and little or no ammonia, they use a different chemical to cause the oxidation instead of ammonia. such a detergent,  {in the form alkaline solution} some have a grain alcohol derivative in them maybe even metallic salts!

If it came straight from the bottle to your hair it was a direct dye or preformed dye molecule in an alkaline solution. The alkaline liquid causes the hair shaft to swell so that the large molecules of color will penetrate slightly into the cortex sticking to the cuticle. This is the principle that the washes out in 15 – 20 shampoos works, the cuticle can’t lie completely flat again because the colored molecules are in the way so each time we shampoo or wet our hair the cuticle raises or swells slightly and the rubbing action of our hands while we lather pulls a few of them off eventually we have none left and our hair is back to  nearly its original state.

Having said this continued use or applying to damaged hair you can and will get build up! porosity of hair it’s natural moisture level it’s Ph can be compromised.

DEMI PERMANENT COLOUR:

Two products mixed together much deeper deposit!

Demi  permanent colours use either low levels of ammonia or MEA {methylethylalamine}  in place of the ammonia, to oxidize  the colour molecule low level of  hydrogen peroxide less than 5vol this cause the indirect dye molecules to mature and develop into desired color. While this is considered Demi permanent because it does not lighten natural pigment with continued use it will slowly lighten the hairs natural level so could create regrowth issues and indeed over time fading issues!

The key here is not to over use and always assess the hair before any application:

                             Demi colour rich brown tone on tone deposit

The above model is a rich Brown tone on tone colour with a short textured razor cut.

Final option the one that covers fully but can create the most issues of effecting condition, deposit, banding, health and shine.

Permanent colour:

Normally mixing from a tube but in some form liquid or ge, mixing colour pigment with a peroxide mix  this is a process of lift and deposit. the colour may ammonia or be advertised as being ammonia free. MEA grain alcohol derivative in all cases the action is to change the ph of the hair open the cuticle, These products have hydrogen peroxide in them this serves to purposes it lifts your natural hair level , it also reacts with the colour molecule to help it mature or to develop it.

This is a process of lift and deposit and is permanent, many issues can arise in this choice of product from over processing to poor deposit to not attaining the correct or desired colour.

It is my personal opinion that any one want permanent colour should at least seek professional advise before embarking on this journey!

Finally a home colour correction tool:

Whilst doing research On line I came across a colour remover Product for home use not a thing I would normally promote. sold in most branches of Boot’s chemist B4 Colour remover.

The key to using any product is to follow the instruction to the latter.  Don’t take short cuts make sure you allow enough time to do this process correctly. This colour remving product is everything it claims to be I was very impressed. But remember it only removes artificial pigment if you have coloured your hair a number of times do not expect your natural colour to appear. If you have over time lifted your natural level with each colour application using permanent colour.you may be able to remove the unwanted pigment but your hair’s natural level will be lighter and in some cases very light if hair has been coloured over a long period. Remember none of these products  are a miracle quick fix. So do your re search become informed if in doubt have a professional consultation.

Before using or applying think about your choices and options: Then make a decision and live with the consequences. good luck hope this has been helpful.

MikeB2MR

 

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Demi application colour balancing plus


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

What is Demi colour? How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

It’s the all round fixer it’s natural looking healthy colour! At it’s core it’s tone on tone deposit It’s suitable for so many applications.

For tone on tone or darker process time of 20 minutes without lift small amount of low volume peroxide is required to mature the colour pigment.

[note over lapping application may result in re growth issues]

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift. Not to mention colour balancing key to maintaining good colour depth and tone.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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The N series and natural hair colour


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Some colourist say “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well.

I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  It a tool that provides all the answers for unwanted tone and colour correction.  

When we think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? We pull out that shade chart but do we use it correctly? Do we use it to refer to or in some cases do we just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!!

[ you may be smiling it happens] I have seen so many stylist give the client the shade chart as if it a paint chart sort of chose the colour pick and mix!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment.

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal.

The role of the N series in the shade chart is for you to sue to assess your clients natural base colour. It is designed to be used to cover Grey hair. As leaving it looking as natural as possible. Assessment of the percentage of Grey hair normally indicates the amount on N series any formula might require.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade?

Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. What pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour.

Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! hum what does this mean?

Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift

By doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

So having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue we have created. So what do we need?

Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural.  We have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. We have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it.

Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. a Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think. Lift. Deposit. That being what tone am i going to expose? How do i control it! do I want to neutralise it or utilise it.

It’s balance. It’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level!

So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you!

A poor Colourist technician. Stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour!

Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! education skill knowledge ,

Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise!

Have fun. But be professional responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can.

Mike B2MR

 

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The colour wheel lift deposit pigment tone,


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Having re posted a slightly changed version on bleach lift and tone yesterday I have decided to follow it with on eon the colour wheel lift and deposit for they all work together well. We all need reminder of the importance of understanding and trusting the laws of colour and the colour wheel. Be it for lift and deposit bleaching and or toning.

As a stylist do you  understand the ‘Law of Color’ ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those! Hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don’t need to know or understand the law’s of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.

Hair color is an art.  it is also a chemistry it’s a process. The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color  are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?

When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is colour?

Colour is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color

There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always

The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.

They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 

The secondary colors:

Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination’s. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.

Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:

You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.

A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.

It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.

A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.

This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.

So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.

Good luck Mike B2MR

 

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Solid hair colour to highlights.final look.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

I am re posting this but with an update on the final look having worked together over the past year to grow length and change colour form the solid  first seen to a honey copper with some blonde tones. please re read article and see final results.

It will show that will patients and communication any thing is possible.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Well this past week end was crunch time.

When we have been working with a client for a long time building up trust and mutual respect  Some times we have to take a step back especially as issues change. Maybe those percentage of Grey hair, overall look and style.

You may well have played with shades and tones and formulations. As we all know a colour can and will look different just by using a different level of developer.

Well sadly as the Grey is creeps in as re growth is appearing quicker and the depth of deposit and so longevity of vibrancy was getting lost.

Time to think a little lighter. Time to think high lights and low lights a mixture of shades. being the long term goal.

As you can see below: When first done this colour looks rich warm healthy looking:

Well I knew and know from experience this is not a quick or easy task, nor can one take short cuts!  No not because it’s my wife although that plays a part! But because this colour and so degree of deposit has built up over time so to get an even lift  down the full shaft of  hair i would have to start lifting from the ends in running a couple of different formulation.

I like to use papers for high lighting and find the best ones that don’t slip and will stay right up to the root without bleeding are Hi Lit Wraps By W.R Rayson. They come in various sizes are waxed paper so bio degrade with time. I will post a link at the end of Article.

Although an older shot from my archive: This shot below gives a very good example of the issues being faced. Roots and faded washed out colour.

I decided on my course of action my goal was to lift to a golden blonde at this time so that in the future we can high light and low light still adding some warm shades. But for now it’s breaking up a solid colour but with even lift. Fine highlights and low lights.

I would run 20 vol bleach decolouriser from end to mid lengths and 10 vol decolouriser mid lengths for now no root application for they will lift and go to light to quickly.

Once applied i left them on with visual timing as the correct shade was reached so i took them out a rinsed with water. Once this was complete and I was happy with the shade the full head was rinsed really well and then dried off.

Now a root assessment  to blend them in the lift achieved i Decided on two formulations her natural level is 7 but around 7G  so i used a 9N with 20 vol for the roots 1 part colour 1 1/2 developer  knowing the violet under tone would control anything to yellow This was applied only to the roots / regrowth.

Formulation.

I also used a Demi formulation of 9B for deposit only just to add a burnt honey tone through the newly lightened hair. so yes i put in a second set of high lights over the first but ended up with target shade and colour no banding and even lift. Taking us on the road to a lighter all over effect without it look yellow dull or drab.

The 9B has a green base at a level 9. So when applied over the existing copper it will neutralise to some degree thus creating a burnt honey tone. controlling the copper.

The process:

From now on it will be some lift with a low volume bleach decolouriser and some low lights of different shades depending on time of year . Less root issue and multi tonal shades for life and texture.

As promised here is some contact for the Hi Lite wraps.I am in the Uk and have found them very helpful with regard to service.

                       hi lite wraps at work right to root

This collection of shots is to show the advantages of the Hi lite wraps the model in shot was having blonde high lights this is not part of the discussed above colour process. These wraps are so easy to use very light and fold over very easily. They are easy to manage when sliding them in to the roots clean neat section’s is the key working off of sections working with the shape and curve of the head and always taking into account the hair line and growth patterns.

When removing they pull out with ease with out snagging or any discomfort to the client.

                   many papers very neat to work with.
For any one interested in the Hi-Lite wraps. Contact me  for information

Finally the look we set out to create low maintenance colour that could be achieved with highlights and low lights without going to blonde or using to much bleach decolouriser. As you have read to start with we had to use a bleach to lift out colour and give an even light tone  as per shots above.

Now we are able to use level 9 tones to create a honey gold and also copper warm tones as a low light. Using 20 vol peroxide and colour balancing utilising the hair’s natural pigment. 

We are now only having to colour every 8 to 10 weeks instead of every 4 to 5, better condition of the hair softer look gained client through recommendation. It’s a win win the client is in less but her friends are keeping me just as busy and guess what ? they also have friends.

I supply this information on this colour journey i hope you agree that the colour change and added length are a great example of stylist and client working together trusting each other mutual respect communication.

 

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Hair colour wrong choice bad result !


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges.

It’s a never ending issue for so many women. What hair colour to have.Then should you pay for a salon professional or go cheap do it at home? . I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange. There is so much to colouring ones hair stylists and technicians train for years and never stop learning as new products come to market.

How much harder for the consumer who wants to for many reasons go the do it at home route! I was in the local chemist /drug store the other day.I watched a young lady looking at row of colour she picked up a box held it up to her head and decided that would do!!! walked away box in hand how she possible know they out come of her choice!!

                                          let’s talk colour

Below is the question that arose from a topic i posted and my reply this is typical of so many issues it’s why i put so much into putting useful material together.

Text from Initial article:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair, Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way If two products mixed together still using peroxide so permanent.

                                               over processed dull lifeless

Reply:

Wow, thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth in to account. Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue. Roots that have never been coloured mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. So different formulation required,on eto lift and depsoit one just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade  suggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

every thing is possible if in doubt seek professional help even if it’s only a consultation to best find out your options!

                                              Healthy natural looking colour

hope this helps you. both the client consumer and also the stylists to think and understand the issues and what motivates someone to have to resort to none professional colour? For the stylist the challenge is to win the client back for the client it’s to have an open mind .Remember you get what you pay for!!! in both hair colour and in life!

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/

 

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Permanent hair colour! other options.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Recently I was lucky enough to spend some time with a group of young stylist’s all full of new and creative idea’s a willingness to learn. But still not willing to question or maybe think beyond the basic teachings. when it comes to choices of colour formulation or product chemistry.

For me know how a product works is good but also knowing what are the chemicals in it are they safe are there any side effects is also key.

Hair colouring; Much more time could be spent considering colouring options and formulations. What is the best option  what formulation will give me the best result with the least chemical damage?

Indeed basic’s with or with out ammonia herbal natural organic what’s the difference? Basic questions well to me it seems.

What is Demi colour?  How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.

When going tone on tone and darker consider do i need lift? do i want warmth?

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

Rich hot vibrant all possible with tone on tone demi deposit!

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! visually inspect the hair feel it.do a strand test! long term use of over the counter colour can create many issues.  Drop a small sample in a glass of water see if it floats! If it sinks and it may do. This might suggest that the hair is lacking moisture and will not hold colour! .

Look for banding. look for hot roots. look for drab ends. consult research question!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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