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Category Archives: corrective colour chart

Full head bleaching and tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s    http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works. Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting ability is dictated by strength of hydrogen peroxide and timing formulation. 

Lotions Oil -Gel: 

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/scalp during the lightening process.Most powder bleaches are not recommended for direct scalp application they may cause reaction an for burning or irritation {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide. { Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented  darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment little or no peroxide is required.Designed to neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed in the lifting process.Deposit only no lift when using a toner in some cases low volume of peroxide may be required to activate the colour molecule. When toning one should always stay with it as it continues it’s neutralisation and despot until rinsed off.The should be considered as a from of colour correction.

                                    High lift Blonde series:

All these shades are toners:

B indicates Beige = Green Orange Base will neutralise pale yellow.

G indicates Gold =yellow orange base for warmth and tone.

V indicates  Violet= red blue base with neutralise  yellow or yellow pale orange

A indicates   Ash =blue  yellow green  will neutralise  Orange orange yellow

Above classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold. What might you use here?

To beige this look out on would use a violet toner worked in for a few minutes it would restore balance getting rid of unwanted warmth .again there is no exact time stay with it do not leave alone for any period. you may end up with  sludge tone!!!

I found a link for this skin test sight happy to share as i think skin testing is so important.

http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

                                                         Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin. Colour start is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon. Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

With a little patient a good consultation and some formulation planning a great shade of bleached an droned hair can be achieved without undue stress and or damage.

Mike B2MR

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Hair colour make over colour correction


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our tool box of knowledge is full: We also have to have an understanding of hair colour.Different types of hair dye and trust the colour chart.

Lets consider what is a make over and what would be classed as mild correction.

Before I introduce client and stylist, lets share a little history. This young lady is in her teenage years. Like most teenagers experimented  home colour and going Blonde. One day she decided that she would go to a professional stylist and have it taken from being to blonde back to her own colour a basic colour dye job! or so she thought.

The picture to the below is after the salon had to attempts at correcting it back to her own colour. The result being hair with a green Hue know by us professionals as Mud. Why Mud? well when re pigmentation of the hair is required it is essential to re build the hairs natural pigment mantle using the correct shade of dye consulting the colour chart helps. If you don’t do this and apply the incorrect shades and tones the pigments can clash with each other or neutralise each other out causing a muddy colour. Once this has happened it’s really hard to  re balance it.

What happened in this case was an under qualified hairdresser took the job on she applied her natural level as a tint or permanent colour using 6N with 20 volume peroxide with out any thought to pigment missing the effect of adding yet more lift to the hair. no consideration to poor condition, past history and finally the under tone pigment in that level 6N.

A totally mess when it went wrong she then tried toning it with various other shades to kill the green hue hence the mud shade created. she even had the audacity to charge for this total mess. the young girl knew no better than to pay. having been lead to trust this was the best the colour could be!

How do you fix this? Could you?

Well let me introduce to you Kate our client and Alex out stylist:

This really is a challenge. To have the full history of the above hair colour disaster maybe find out what hair dye was used, Alex has to do his consultation with Kate. The key here is for Alex to get as much information a she can about past history and also get a clear idea as to expectation. At this point he has to honestly tell Kate what is possible.This cannot be ego driven it has to be within his own skill and ability. Trust me when i say it takes a bigger person to say sorry this is beyond me than to muddle on. Remember we have already had one professional screw up. As soon as Alex agrees to take this on he assume all responsibility for it. [ strand test, optional client wavier release form, fully advised of process]. Having chatted with Kate two things are established she knows her hair is very over processed and damaged she wants to look and feel better she is open to change both of colour and cut.

Alex goes on to explain  that although the really bad colour in her hair looks dark drab muddy due to the condition it will not last very long and could gentle be removed, they could then either re pigment and go warmer or they could go lighter but with many natural shades.

Alex explains that the first thing they will do is a mild cocktail made from shampoo.Bleach decolouriser. conditioner.and low volume peroxide.This will remove all the muddy pigment and give them a stripped canvas to work from. Kate says sounds like I’m in for a long visit . Alex say well once we see what we can lift out we can see what the best course of action will be for our future colour. Alex say’s don’t worry Kate we can fix this. Your lucky that your  natural skin tone and eye colour leave the door open for colour options. Really says kate never thought of that!

Off to the back wash for the cocktail.

Note whilst Alex is mixing I will insert some information  on a cocktail formulation.

A bleach bath or cocktail formulation:

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

This in itself i class as a colour correction tool, as mild as it is you must stay with it know wondering off for a smoke, a chat a coffee.This is serious stuff!

Alex works the formulation into kate’s hair once whilst applying it warns her it’s a bit cold and bit smelly! you could say that say Kate. Alex gets a wide comb and continually combes the formula  into and through her hair gradually the mixture starts to work it’s lifting. All that mud is going down the drain. After about 20minutes he is happy done he says no we can get going. he rinses a very light shampoo to remove any traces of the formula  cool water .Now he says sitting kate back down we will lightly dry it and decide on course of action.

To the colour and formulation: Thus far i very impressed with the skill Alex is showing and professional approach. We have now removed all that muddy un-wanted pigment Alex has a better idea of what is possible so he has a better vision to share with Kate. How serious is she about change? Alex says to Kate as you can see we have removed all that muddy colour. Kate says yes i back where i started but ££ pounds lighter. Right says Alex lets establish two things colour and style. Right he says with some authority I see it fair bit shorter but with texture and movement.

Colour wise lets work with the blonde, but re introduce shades that work with you, let beige this out with caramels, toffee, cool blondes and burnt honey golds. WOW ! Says Kate you can do that, Yes we can it will look great how does it sound to you amazing. Ok say’s Alex given how over processed your hair is all we have to do is deposit different shades and buildup the pigment long term work on the colour retention.I can recommend some products to help both with moisiture in your hair and colour retention qualities if you like great says Kate.

Lets get going. You ready says Alex!  First thing i’m going to do is cut a fair bit of hair off we don’t need to colour all this waste time money and product .Out comes the razor and things start to take shape. Once the bulk of the weight has been removed and shape formed. Alex, say’s to Kate feel good yes say’s Kate. Right now lets sort out this colour bear with me whilst i mix up some Formulations.

Whilst Alex is Mixing I will share with you the Different formulations:

Demi Deposit Only: Tone on tone or darker lift or higher levels of Hydrogen peroxide are not required! Remember we are going for deposit Only this over processed hair does not need any more peroxide and lift.

First Colour level 6 BR[Beige Red] remember first letter dictates stronger shade. In this choice Alex is choosing a rich beige shade but also re introducing some warm pigment back in to the hair,a wise choice. 1oz[30 grams] 6RB 2oz [60grams]  demi lotion developer. Second choice 7 GB [gold beige] again more re introduction of pigment quantity as above 1 part colour to 2 parts Demi lotion. Final choice 6B just beige will have a stronger depth than other choices.formulation as above. These are all none progressive colour formulations no need to worryabout over deposit.

Back with Alex. He explains to Kate we are going to re introduce three different shades into your hair and at the same time replace some of the warmer pigments this will give depth and tone.At the same time we will leave out some chunks of the existing blonde we will tone this later to create a nicely controlled Beige blonde that will compliment the look and style. sounds great says Kate.Oh Alex says we are also going to use the same shade sin panels in the under part of your hair to create some depth and dimension. lets get going with all these colours.

Alex works quickly with great skill we weaves out different section choosing where to place the shades and panels. Once finished he takes section from the base hair line applying the different shades in solid blocks. working from the hair line nape up to just below the occipital bone jaw line just above the ears. thus creating solid block area of three shades. leaving out the lighter chunks of pre lifted hair in the top section.

Finally all applied leaves it to process around 20 minutes no heat required!! [Heat is not good for colour, it’s not needed colouring is a process of fromulation and timing] all that is required is the correct choice of products and patients!

After 20 minutes Alex takes kate to the back wash rinse of all colour .Then decides to apply a Beige toner to control the Blonde that was left out and tie the beige theme into together. As he works the Toner into Kate’s  hair he stays with it as it starts to work on the yellow blonde  sections creating a really nice cool natural beige. Done re rinsed shampooed  conditioned ready for a little more razor work and a blow dry.

Well what a great job Alex managed to save the day and Kate looks amazing i hope you agree that this was a job well done. As for Kate well happy does not even cover the emotion she felt and how pleased she was.

Service,Consultation,skill.knowledge. without these this would not have been possible so how can we help you? what can we do for you? she left armed with the right products to maintain both new colour and condition. Committed to never making the same costly mistake again with either Home Hair dye or an un skilled stylist.

Mike B2MR [names of stylist and client have been changed]

 

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Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


 

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Going Lighter. Blonde and beyond!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Lifting or lightening hair colour :

It is not always about going Blonde is it? It can involve lifting or lightening ones only natural colour or lifting our a darker shade application.What eve the case it can and will have and may cause some issues.This is such a huge topic it can and will open up many. Different application, formulation, situations. I will try to cover or uncover as many as possible.

I think before we start to look at the various colour options available to us. We have to take a look at and understand the process of lift deposit and hair pigmentation. The law’s of colour. The colour wheel. How to control the unwanted tones exposed in the lifting process.

Whether doing all over lift with a Bleach De-colouriser or using High Lift Blonde permanent colour for all all over colour techniques. One will always encounter unwanted pigment in the form of warmth. The key to controlling this is to understanding the colour wheel, tones needed to control the exposed pigment. The same rules will apply if doing a High lighted effect when requiring lift and deposit.

Let us look at lift and lightening

The Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on for long periods or if the lifting action is kept going. This action would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the lifting action  of removing pigment going.

Remember the Colour wheel: The tool you need to understand learn and trust!

{you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown.[4] Red.[5]. Red-orange.[6]. orange-yellow.[7] yellow -orange.[8]

yellow.[9] pale yellow. [10]

The first colour is always the stronger shade! So consider this when making choices regarding lifting pigment and tone. On to Primary colour. Secondary colour . Tertiary colour as seen on the colour wheel.

These being Primary.

Red.Blue.Yellow

Secondary.

Orange.Green. Violet.

Tertiary.

Yellow/green Yellow/orange Yellow/red   Red/orange Red/Violet Blue /violet Blue/green

If this sounds a little complicated well here is a useful tool for you.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel learn to trust it.

Level 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

At the top of the coloured pie section

10=yellow

9= Yellow orange

8= Orange

7=Red orange

6= Red

And so on down the chart of natural levels 5.4.3.1 bear in mind that once up in the high lift area of 9 and 10 you are dealing with degree’s of yellow and pale yellow depending on amount of pigment you have removed or exposed!

lets use an example:

Working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? Is it possible to get there? Lets see.

*Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed.

*Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

*Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

*Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

Four levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with to warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

The Relationship between. 

Natural hair colour . Hydrogen peroxide. Permanent colour is a complex one. When lifting hair we have to take so many variations into account if we are going to achieve the desired colour and tone.This is not a simple process. Why? As we look at a shade chart to choose a colour,there are so many thing to consider.

First and foremost.

The consultation our time to gain as much information and history as possible a time for some honest and frank questions.Before we can consider our way forward,we have to take into account the natural base colour of the head. Assess Natural level. Percentage of Grey if any. Discuss goals and targets desired colour and tone Are they realistic? Are they achievable? It is at this point we have to make some decisions, for we have many choices.

Permanent colour.

This involves both lift and deposit, so we have to consider, do we want warmth or not? The less warmth we require, the lower volume of peroxide we should use. As the peroxide volume is increased, we lift the natural level more, exposing more underlying warmth or pigment, do we want or need this warmth?

Maybe we want a semi or Demi colour, both deposit with out exposing any natural pigment, Demi deposit being slightly deeper than semi. It’s all about choice.The key to this is understanding lift and deposit, understanding the relationship between peroxide, lift and pigment being exposed. Do you?

As we have introduced this warmth.  We have to have decide, do we want to utilize or neutralize it. This is why our choice of colour and peroxide are so important, our formulation has to be carefully thought about. To get the desired results. We have to understand lift, deposit, pigment exposure, and the colour wheel.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

What makes it challenging:

When we assess our hair natural colour, we work off a scale of 1 to 10 in most instances

1=Black 10= Blonde this is pretty much Universal standard within the hair industry.

When deciding on Permanent hair colour. We have to access the natural level of the hair, before we can move forward and choose a target colour. A big mistake made is not considering the Volume of Peroxide being used and the influence it will have over your chosen colour.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde.

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength of  Hydrogen Peroxide.10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking. The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Depth and Tone:

ICS, International colouring system, Offers a system where hair colours and shades are divided into numbers. Using our example of level 6  a chosen 6/1 would denote a shade at level six with underlying Ash Pigment { perfect for neutralizing red orange undertone}

Laws of colour are just that Laws they cannot be broken.

Over the years i have worked with many stylist who like to break the rules.They Don’t measure colour. They don’t ever read the technical manual.They mix shades hit and miss. Oh so random, but ego dictates they know it all! I have made a great deal of money correcting these dull muddy over processed colour jobs. Understand the colour Wheel.Trust what it tells you, how it guides you, consider the environment you are working on. Take the time to read the black stuff in the technical manual, it normally has the answers to your issues and problems.

My hope is that all this information and the useful charts will help you and encourage you to think the process through and challenge your self and your thinking when lift hair lighter, from either a natural base shade or from a darker previously coloured shade.

Comments always welcome Mike B2MR:

 

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Alkalinity and Ph. The process of hair colouring.


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         

As Hairdressers when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in. Spend some time reading the technical manual in the colour chart know and trust your product.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the same in Semi or Demi colour but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an alkaline it can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. 

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research! I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

                                       review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart: When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss, the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

                               Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

Ok a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour. Now we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful
MikeB2MR
 

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Pre lighteners Blonde hair toning


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.  Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Bleaching Lifting and Toning:

My goal is to post topic’s on various aspects of our industry. Hair colouring. The process. The techniques.The skill.The knowledge.

All of these skills come together to enable us to carry out many different processes and applications on our clients who trust us to be both skilled and professional.

Bleaching and toning hair is a subject I have covered in the past but it seem’s to get researched for information constantly as stylist’s and client’s look for information on the subject

Full head bleaching or High lighting are a process that requires lifting or lightening the hair to a point of removing enough of the hair’s natural pigment. To then create a natural looking shade from light brown or copper to blonde depending on the natural level or colour of the hair . How do we achieve this?

As always it starts with a consultation with you client or as a client with your stylist. This is key especially with bleaching. Past history. Condition. Goal. Expectation.

At this time it should be decided if the hair is in a condition that is ok for this process. Be it just a root application or new look. If a root application then the key is not to over lap the product onto hair that has already been processed. If in any doubt do a strand test.

Other tests you can do to see if the hair can withstand bleaching.

1/ When wet does it stretch eventually breaking?

2/ Drop a strand test into a glass of water Healthy hair will float. over processed will sink. If this is the case. chances are it over processed and damaged. It will not hold colour much less toner.

Before proceeding a regime of conditioning will be required.Try to get the hair to float in that glass.

Hair Lighteners.  Decolouriser’s Bleach, High lift Blonde Tint.

My reason for putting these thoughts in is because of the amount of very poorly done over processed bleached hair i noticed. Breakage on the crown. Poor and patchy lift. Lack of tone why is this?

Bleach and pre lightening. 

Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking on lightening hair. We have to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works, sounds easy and yet it’s so easy to get it wrong.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms. They are designed to lighten the natural pigment in the hair they are known as an Alkaliser. During this lifting process warmth from the hair’s pigmentation is exposed as it lightens. This warmth has to be controlled,the amount exposed is dependant on the Natural level of the hair and the desired amount of lift. so choice of strength of developer plays a key role.

How do these products work.

These are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide. When these two elements are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair, the lightening process begins. Depending on the strength of peroxide plus timing will dictate the amount of lift we can achieve,we must also consider the natural hair level as a starting point. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release. This will be noticed by expansion of your formulation or change in consistency whilst mixing.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners. These are for the most part Stronger and faster acting than oil and boosters. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} 

Lifting ability depends on. The strength of hydrogen peroxide and will also be dictated to by timing and the natural starting level. Having a clear goal of whats expected, or you are trying to achieve is also very important.

Hydrogen Peroxide comes in different strength’s or Volume 10. 20. 30. 40 are standard in the hair industry, 20 volume is advised for all scalp applications. No higher, always consider the use of heat it’s not always required or advised.

Lotions Oil -Gel:

These have a smoother consistency. They are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process, again for scalp application 20 volume is the max recommended for safe application.

{Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients.

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia. Ammonia hydroxide. Magnesium silicate,and sodium, quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide, of a desired strength or Volume to attain results.

Take note! If the hair has been coloured with, any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain. It could create a heat reaction this can cause burning so do your home work! Ask the right questions in the consultation process, if in doubt do a strand test. see article on metallic salts in products. 
Stages of Lightening:

When lifting or lightening hair, it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair. If left on or the lifting action is kept going, this would be by re-applying fresh formula on top of any application to keep the  lifting  action going.

Remember the Colour wheel:  {you can see shades in the outer wheel }  

                                             

The stages are as follows

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected from Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood. I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible. Full consultation prior to any chemical service is essential. If in doubt do a strand test.

The main reason for this topic is to address toning.  Having lifted the roots to blend be it with previous coloured full head or addressing high lights that are growing out.

We now have to look at the degree of lift and the shade that needs to be toned. At this point understanding the colour wheel is key as is using the correct formulation.

In so many cases the things that can go wrong with toning are. Bad choice of toner. Bad formulation.

Bleached  /decolourised. Lifted hair is by nature very porous and will take any application of toner readily and quickly so once applied stay with it as it works it’s magic.

I class Toning as early stage colour correction it’s an art.

What we are talking about here is. Lift and deposit:

For example. Lets use a natural level 6 this is classed as Dark blonde/mouse. It is a perfect level to work from to introduce natural looking Blonde shade and tone.

There  are many different types of pigment  available to us. From pre mixed tubes of concentrated pigment these might be. Ash . Violet. Amethyst depending on the tone you require.

Normally they will have a shampoo like base and are worked into the hair after the bleach has been washed or rinsed out and prior to conditioning.

Another option. Professional colour pigment tubes some have the ability to allow us to change their chemistry. They deposit pigment with any lift.  Understand your product how they work as well as having a clear goal. Read all instructions carefully.

As you can see with the above chart level six sits within the middle section of the chart. To get to a level of lift to be able to tone. We have to lift four shades into the area of pigment exposed around level 9.

This can be reached with a bleach de-colouriser or it may be possible with a high lift tint using 40 vol developer.

For the sake of this topic we are looking at. We are using an example of bleach being used.

Some may say level 6 to 9 is only three levels but that is misdirection for we have to lift through level 6 to get to level 9! In real terms we are looking at 4 levels max depending on the pigment base you want to work with. ie How much yellow you want to work with to create your shade and tone.

For levels of lift the above chart will show levels and timing from said developers:

Once we have reached a target of lifted shade to a nice even base pale yellow would be desired for a nice blonde. Anything from a very light Orange hue to very pale yellow will give an acceptable level of lift and pigment for toning Blonde.

This chart above Shows.  Both undertone exposed through the lifting process and then the pigment required to tone to a natural shade at the level lifted to.

Note you will be working at levels 8 to 10 anything darker that this will be more like low lights caramel or burnt honey tones. Because you will still have an orange hue. Darker than level 8/7 and down. It should be noted that really shades darker than level 7 are not really classed as blonde.

This I think is where mistakes are made. Considering the level of lift choosing the desired pigment required to tone. To often Ash toner is reached for. When you can see from the chart Ash really will only work for pigments that are of an Orange hue. Ash pigment used as a toner on. Yellow will create a Green hue! Why? Well what does yellow and Blue make ! da Green

Think about our primary colours the secondary shades then think it’s all about balance adding back what we have removed,But at the level we have exposed or are working in.

Guess what it’s back to know understanding trusting the colour wheel and the law of colour.

A small very basic colour wheel but easy to understand Opposites neutralise so yellow requires Violet!

Nice healthy natural shades of blonde lifted and then tones for dimension.

Healthy good condition long blonde hair is possible. It takes time patients client and stylist working together.

Finally bleached and toned full head colour all is possible . Use the right products understand these products. choose the correct formulation and timing.Think the process through!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Pre lightening hair. Bleaching lift pigment tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

                               how not to bleach!

How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

Above i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content or lack there of. If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one. We should always consider the content of what we post and the damage bad information can do !

Lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile. You may well encounter  build up of colour the ends may well be harder to lift.Compromise and toning may be required .Do not just keep bleaching!! hair can only take so much abuse!

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching} as pigment and or toner is removed

                          If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                       [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

below on left natural level  on right lift attained

I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

                          lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

                              High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!


All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   


To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?


To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

A really well done look both bleaching and tone look good and very natural. How things should be done.

                                            http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

                                       Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

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