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Category Archives: Foaming hair colour

Misinformation Hair colour product knowledge


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

What is written in the heavy print is my view of course only my view!! However I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material in the public domaine.

Always research don’t trust all that you read as being correct knowledge is power  a little knowledge is dangerous! Stay informed current up to date have high standards and expect nothing less from those around you!

Lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR

Permanent Colour:

Permanent colour gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations and in maybe an extreme case! In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application. Issues with excess warmth will occur using 40 vol developer! 

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available always find out what the alkaline is in your colour!

Semi-Permanent Colour:

Colour usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Colour:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle for slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Colour:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Colour Rinse:

Colour lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                      1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLOURED HAIR CARE TIPS

Coloured and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun. Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

SHAMPOO COLOUR ENHANCERS:

Use colour enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

Personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

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Our love affair with home hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR


Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS.
Why is home hair colour such big business? Why is it in such demand? cost ? time? ease of use? yes of course. Consider advertising promotion celebrity endorsement products branded by brand name professional stylists. Daily bombardment of beautiful natural style you can create at home from this box of wonder.Hard to ignore right!

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It’s very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career! I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit.Toning. Damage. Condition. I have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth see most recent topic’s on all subjects.  In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                           A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that.  Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.

Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.

Many Products:  Claiming to be. Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job an Alkaline. MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.[see past posting on subject] They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 

                    In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10 Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS

Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.

please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic’s and articles posted are designed and share knowledge and experience Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

Mike B2MR                   http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/   







 

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semi permanent colour and other options


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Semi Permanent Hair Colour:

Mousse, gels. Demi, permanent,

When we think about semi permanent colour we naturally assume slow wash out or fade maybe 6 to 8 washes up to 6 weeks. That’s what is says on the box or what we lead to believe not always the case!

In reality we have to consider so many things be it in the salon or at home? What we expect from this colour .What is my hair condition is it advisable?

Are we going tone on tone? Are we considering putting a darker shade than our natural level not a great deal is achieved putting lighter over darker!

If putting a cool Red {blue red} over say Blonde as it fades a pinkish, purple, hue could be left. bright true Red could fade leaving {red orange} hue.

The porosity of your own hair plays a part in how these colours may deposit. How long they last and how they fade, as well as the chemical make up of the product.

Buyer beware!

A product that is promoted as being semi permanent can still have ingredients in the formulation to open the cuticle and help with the deposit of the said colour.

This is not ammonia you can change the Ph thus opening the cuticle with money alkaline products shampoo can change the environment. Detergent/soaps, alcohol These will open the cuticle thus allowing stains to deposit slightly deeper into the hair.

It will over time create staining. It will slowly build up after prolonged use.

Hair in it’s normal state has a ph 0f 5.5 Anything raising or changing this level,this environment. Will open the cuticle to some degree. Some so called semi permanent might change the ph to as much as ph of 7!!!

In some cases they can leave behind trace chemical residue the same can be so of the mousse colour refreshing products Reds. Blondes.They can leave behind trace elements that build up and can effect professional colour applications.

In some cases they can effect the deposit of professional colour creating banding issues or poor deposit. see article on shampoo with colour pigments added.

 As a stylists always consultation it’s the key to a successful out come:

How many of you have cried their eyes out! after a colour has gone wrong? Been close to shaving your head after unfortunate choice of hair colour? Hands up! Yes ? With hair the colour of scrambled eggs…Dying your hair is not as easy as the adverts make it out to be.  I am not talking about the technique! Just the many things to take into account when considering hair colour both product and desired effect! 

It’s product choice.  It’s hair condition. It’s history of the hair previous colour. It’s application. It’s formulation. It’s timing. Oh did i mention skill and knowledge training?

The question arises:

I have coloured my hair it’s the wrong shade what can i do? Was it one tube or bottle or a mix pack?

When you applied the color did you mix 2 things together?  Was it a twist the top asking that you shake 2 suspended liquids together or were you able to apply it straight from the bottle with out mixing anything?

If you mixed 2 things you used a long lasting semi permanent, or what the pro’s call a Demi permanent. They usually contain a very low volume of peroxide and little or no ammonia, they use a different chemical to cause the oxidation instead of ammonia. such a detergent,  {in the form alkaline solution} some have a grain alcohol derivative in them maybe even metallic salts!

If it came straight from the bottle to your hair it was a direct dye or preformed dye molecule in an alkaline solution. The alkaline liquid causes the hair shaft to swell so that the large molecules of color will penetrate slightly into the cortex sticking to the cuticle. This is the principle that the washes out in 15 – 20 shampoos works, the cuticle can’t lie completely flat again because the colored molecules are in the way so each time we shampoo or wet our hair the cuticle raises or swells slightly and the rubbing action of our hands while we lather pulls a few of them off eventually we have none left and our hair is back to  nearly its original state.

Having said this continued use or applying to damaged hair you can and will get build up! porosity of hair it’s natural moisture level it’s Ph can be compromised.

DEMI PERMANENT COLOUR:

Two products mixed together much deeper deposit!

Demi  permanent colours use either low levels of ammonia or MEA {methylethylalamine}  in place of the ammonia, to oxidize  the colour molecule low level of  hydrogen peroxide less than 5vol this cause the indirect dye molecules to mature and develop into desired color. While this is considered Demi permanent because it does not lighten natural pigment with continued use it will slowly lighten the hairs natural level so could create regrowth issues and indeed over time fading issues!

The key here is not to over use and always assess the hair before any application:

                             Demi colour rich brown tone on tone deposit

The above model is a rich Brown tone on tone colour with a short textured razor cut.

Final option the one that covers fully but can create the most issues of effecting condition, deposit, banding, health and shine.

Permanent colour:

Normally mixing from a tube but in some form liquid or ge, mixing colour pigment with a peroxide mix  this is a process of lift and deposit. the colour may ammonia or be advertised as being ammonia free. MEA grain alcohol derivative in all cases the action is to change the ph of the hair open the cuticle, These products have hydrogen peroxide in them this serves to purposes it lifts your natural hair level , it also reacts with the colour molecule to help it mature or to develop it.

This is a process of lift and deposit and is permanent, many issues can arise in this choice of product from over processing to poor deposit to not attaining the correct or desired colour.

It is my personal opinion that any one want permanent colour should at least seek professional advise before embarking on this journey!

Finally a home colour correction tool:

Whilst doing research On line I came across a colour remover Product for home use not a thing I would normally promote. sold in most branches of Boot’s chemist B4 Colour remover.

The key to using any product is to follow the instruction to the latter.  Don’t take short cuts make sure you allow enough time to do this process correctly. This colour remving product is everything it claims to be I was very impressed. But remember it only removes artificial pigment if you have coloured your hair a number of times do not expect your natural colour to appear. If you have over time lifted your natural level with each colour application using permanent colour.you may be able to remove the unwanted pigment but your hair’s natural level will be lighter and in some cases very light if hair has been coloured over a long period. Remember none of these products  are a miracle quick fix. So do your re search become informed if in doubt have a professional consultation.

Before using or applying think about your choices and options: Then make a decision and live with the consequences. good luck hope this has been helpful.

MikeB2MR

 

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The hair salon challenges facing stylist’s owner’s


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                                  http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

What are the greatest challenges to stylist and salon owners and managers? Building up and retaining clients. Attracting new business. Being competitive with other local salons? Having that trusting relationship built on. Skill, honesty, creative talent with our clients and staff. ! Oh! And service.

As stylists we can so easily get caught up in being busy staying busy slightly over booking that we forget what is really important. The client. The service. The consultation. The after care advice and so  product sales advise.

Over the years I have come to realize that all of the above points are key to success. They are also the main things we as stylist’s forget, take for granted. These are the things we need to stay on top of, make part of our daily routine when working with our clients.

Salon owners and managers need to consider the location when setting up a new business. The image. What are your goals? How do you become part of the community you hope to serve?

Above: one of the two new salons this was formerly a salon existing business, so new ownership new appearance. new idea’s new vision

Below the salon well situated in between the two salons that opened recently but this one closed down as the two new one’s opened who has it right i wonder ?

I have recently watched two new salons open in the city where I live. They are a few streets apart for this to happen two salons closed. Is the progress or poor planning time will tell. A topic for another day. But worth a mention both these new salons have come into town expanding from smaller towns. Both have the same idea both looking for a piece of the pie! Hum!!! Battle of the newbies. Who will stand the test of time.Who will the paying public endorse in the hard economic times? Both have invested in a fancy up market look both very different. I did try and see if i could have an appointment to talk with one owner about vision concept goals. No response was forth coming ! fear is normally what holds owners back from talking openly.What do they have to fear ?

Above: Second shop newly opened the challenge is on. Can it, will it. Attract enough new clients will the local community embrace another salon in the city? it markets it’s self as 5star hotel treatment that might put some off! just a thought. Image and what we present to the public is so key.

Challenging our selves to make changes into how we work. Questioning what we do. How we interact with our clients is not as an easy thing. To take a long hard look in the mirror and being honest about what needs maybe a little help some adjustment. Is even a harder thing to do. Admitting we need some external help advise guidance. Even harder

I recently wrote a topic about Investing in ones self here is the link

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/09/investing-in-ones-self.html

This topic was one I very much enjoyed writing but i have to admit it was inspired by someone who I greatly admire. Author of Double your salon Sales.  Karen Lynch

http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/

This little book is a real Gem readily available in the USA and soon to be in the Uk it offers advise, asks questions, It challenges you to make changes and shows you step by step how to make them.

It covers everything we do, the daily situations that are presented to us daily.

In this book, Karen will cover all you need to do to make changes, she challenges you to follow her step by step to realise your full potential become truly successful.

My review of Karen’s book.

In writing Double Your Salon Success, Karen Lynch shows she has a true  understanding of the hairdressing world. She reveals the very essence of what makes for success by identifying the combination of service, consultation and sales that are needed to grow and be current. This book encapsulates so much of what we as stylists forget or take for granted. As Karen shares with us Pamela and Skye’s journey, she takes us on a roller coaster ride from start to finish. She reveals their struggle to make their dream a reality which is at times frustrating and emotionally upsetting and at other times exhilarating. As we read, we think “hey, that could be me; that is so right; what a great idea.” From start to finish, this book is a thought provoking and entertaining read that will leave you wanting to take the challenge to walk a new path to success.

The things we do define us. It’s these things that motivate, and inspire us. Question who you are, what you do, what really empowers you. The challenge is to ensure you have the right knowledge and tools to feel empowered. That feeling of positive affirmation will help you take charge and live your dream.

Courses be they. Technical. Hands on. Shows or demonstrations, are all very worth while.

However the real motivator is being creatively challenged, getting excited, having fun at work and in your life.

The real key to this is. The service we offer. Our communication and consultation skills. Honesty when giving advise on after care and sales.

Its this book that raises the questions, offers the answers, Karen has a finger on the pulse of our industry. It happens that with all my years of experience all that this industry has challenged me with given me, showed me, all this has proved that service, consultation, skill and communication are the key tools we all need to have.

Being able to put one’s Ego aside and having the right level of humility we can all challenge our selves constantly striving to grow and help others to attain higher levels.

For those of you in the USA another wonderful source of help and inspiration would be another lady whom I have a huge amount of respect for like Karen passionate and motivated industry professional

Kathy Jager based in Chicago Illinois  do take a look at both these links and sights so much helpful insightful information.

http://www.kathyjager.com/

As we head towards the end of the year start to think of a new and different approach to work to your clients your business for the new year make plans now set goals take action.

Mike B2MR

 
Comments Off on The hair salon challenges facing stylist’s owner’s

Posted by on October 26, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Home hair Straightening kits, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Home hair straightening kit


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

We just about finish posting warnings and exhausted the discussion on some of the professional keratin based hair relaxing products and how important it is to research that they are safe. formaldehyde free.

We have had ammonia free foaming hair colour. We have had  ammonia free all natural heathy hair colour for home use and application now we have.

I see this advertised

Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and Smooth hair straightening kit for non coloured hair.

Charles Worthington Straight and Smooth hair straightening kit, get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment from the comfort of your home.

Above is the add  So i thought lets read the instructions lets see what’s in this product. below is what i could find

Get gorgeously straight, smooth and more manageable hair with natural bounce for up to 40 days from Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and; Smooth hair straightening kit. Completely safe and easy to apply in just 25 minutes, this patent-pending breakthrough treatment uses Cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active that re-programmes your hair memory and tames frizz. It’s 100% free from formaldehyde and ammonia. Get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment, all from the comfort of your home.

The experts at Charles Worthington have developed Straight and Smooth to help keep your hair straighter for longer. Working closely in collaboration with world-renowned hair expert, Professor Wortmann at Manchester University, the product has been over two years in production to ensure the best results for your hair.

This breakthrough straightening treatment uses cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active. Cystamine works by re-programming your hair memory so your hair will stay straighter and not want to frizz, even in humid conditions. Our patent – pending technology is blended with proteins and argan oil to leave your hair looking smoother and healthier for longer.

Straight and Smooth is 100% ammonia and formaldehyde free meaning the product is safe to use and gentle on your hair. 85% of women who trialled Charles Worthington Salon at Home, Straight and Smooth agreed it effectively straightened their hair for up to 6 weeks.

Reviews thoughts questions:

As you can read from the above although it eludes to no Ammonia no formaldehyde it does not tell us what’s in it. How it opens the cuticle how it relaxes the hair my guess either Grain alcohol derived Alkaline mixed as  a cream to weigh the hair down keeping it straight in the 20 minute process time it does require neutralising [just like a perm] it’s really a acid perm in reverse not rollers!

I read some reviews not that good sounds rather smelly!

Cystine is what we have in our hair to create curl. We relax the cystine one of the hairs 19 amino acids to make it straight!!!

It might last 6 to 8 weeks that does not mean re do every 6 to 8 weeks !!!!!

It sadden’s me when well respected professional celebrity stylist have to endorse theses none professional products.So much for years in the industry and being a professional. It’s all about the ££££ or $$$$$.

To carry out this procedure one has to put the hair into an alkaline state open the cuticle. We do that with various strengths of Ammonia or with MEA or an alkaline derived from grain fermentation this allows it to be called natural!

Be aware that issues can arise if doing a process like this possible breakage do not do it on pre coloured or bleached hair  any doubts seek professional advise.

I really have the greatest respect for so many of our celebrity stylist they mentor so many. They are looked up to by young aspiring stylists who look to them as professionals these sort of products cheapen that image. Always research any product read reviews before applying it to your hair!

Mike B2MR

 
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Posted by on October 25, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Home hair Straightening kits, Keratin hair relaxer, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair salon the services we offer


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience.

 

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Hairdressing and the Service Industry:

My Blog is about Hairdressing. Products, but also about the service Industry.

Something we as stylists provide  yet in some case the service we don’t offer! we forget! We get lazy.Complacent !!

Quite simply: 

After a bad experience to a highly recommended salon would you expect a client to return would she recommend. This place. This salon. This experience? Maybe but it would not be in a positive way!

The answer is a Big NO! so can you see where we are going with this?

How do you think your client might feel if for  along period of time you have in between hair cuts trimmed her fringe/bangs free of charge just a quick service you give in between appointments.

The one day out of the blue your regular clients pop’s in for a fringe trim you charge her say £5.00 0or £5.00 .will she questions this? is it a deal breaker ? is it enough to make her think twice about the service and the cost? answer yes it is think before you act short term gain long term loss!

The Salon is no different  to any other service related business. How many times are we on a role that busy day fully booked up and yet we keep fitting people in that busy day becomes an exceptional day! or so we think but was it?  In these very competitive times offering exceptional ‘Service’ That totally special experience is key to having and more importantly retaining clients and indeed getting new recommendations.

 

So that Busy day: A salon should be fun full of life. Interaction, friendly, inviting The problem with that busy day that big money earner it’s a short term view to success and reaching a consistent level of steady bookings.

When we over book, keep clients waiting. We compromise the service in some cases we take short cuts we have to seek the help of others, we might get an assistant to do a colour application that we normally do or that blow dry, we have all done this but it does not go unnoticed trust me your client does notice.

{Having that policy of booking and sticking to it  gains respect sets boundaries}

 

So on reflection: Although it was a busy day a big earner it was chaos you fitted new clients in but at the end of the day how many did you loose? a happy client recommends an unhappy client does not!

You will never reach a level steady busy days with good client retention when you take short cuts and over book money should not be the motivator! concentrate on the client the busy days the higher salary will follow! other wise that busy salon will start to look like this!

Whilst the Salon down the road thrives! Maybe with your now moved on Clients! Should this happen to you it’s time to reflect on. What you are doing. How you are doing it and what your real goal is!

We all have to sometimes take a look in that mirror and remind ourselves that no one is indispensable and that service and the client retention Recommendation are key to success.

 

Consultation.

The Key to success is the time you take with that consultation it is important to note that a consultation should not be limited to new clients that little bit of time spent for that quick review with a returning clients puts then at ease makes them feel specialThis is your time to introduce your self to put your client at ease share thoughts ideas, educate them with your knowledge.

Most Importantly be Honest!

In some cases this honesty could be a recommendation that a colour service at this time might not be a good idea but conditioning and working toward that service would.

Trust me this works! you have been honest explained why this may not be a good idea you are building trust,respect, A relationship!

we are in the business of offering service advise solving problems solving solutions.

A tall order far removed from just standing behind a chair talking about yourself in a flaky none caring manner!

As an example when we get hair like this, above slightly over processed looking dull. Condition refresh recommend products: Discuss realistic goals set out time frame book that important revisit all stuff we know all stuff we forget about!

I moved back here from Canada  almost two years ago and still have contact and relationship with clients to this day.

They become friends it becomes a relationship its a journey we take! its  fun!


 

Things to think about! 

Consider clients skin tone, eye colour, how they present themselves!

*Never put a shade chart on a clients lap and say! What colour would you like today!

*Never Compromise your standard.

*Have Boundaries.

* Honesty is best Policy.

* Take the time to listen, be educated, well informed, creative and skilled!

We should also consider help support material to maybe guide us forward.Maybe help us address some of the issues that we have allowed to get a little lacks.The service Communication. Consultation skills.

We all from time to time need to take a step back and seek help and advise.

 

A Highly recommended tool.

We need to use all the tools that are available to us.The ones that motivate us. Ones that are written specific to the issues around our industry by passionate professionals who have so much to share and offer to us. One helpful read is the book below written by Karen Lynch it’s very insightful on so many aspect of owning and running a salon and motivating staff.  She is a driven motivated passionate industry professional.

In this book 

Karen takes you along on a journey of discovery and challenges. Two stylist discovering the challenges the emotion roller coaster of success

                                                       http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/

It’s is very much hoped this will soon be on sale here in the Uk but you can order via the web link.

Having read the book and watched the educational DVD’s and as some one who has nothing to gain from this recommendation apart from sharing it as a tool that I think very inspiring written by someone with a solid background and so an understanding of the issues we all come across daily in the salon as either an owner manager or stylist.

Mike B2MR


 
Comments Off on Hair salon the services we offer

Posted by on October 24, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Make over, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair colour. Is it Herbal, organic,natural or chemical?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across them.With so many manufacture’s producing and making claim so so many innovative colour break throughs we have to take some time to try and understand what is on offer.What makes them so different in. How they work. What they do. What we can expect from them we have to know and understand the chemistry of all such products.

Claims that is natural health and organic are not enough.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA.

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/03/hair-colour-and-alkalinity-ph.html

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote: below.

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them so i can share a review with you all.Sadly nothing was ever forth coming!

I am now waiting fro some information on another colour line so stay tuned!

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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