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Category Archives: hair chemistry

Hair colour or dye the consultation


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

The Consultation your time to shine:

I’ve been a fully trained stylist involved in our industry for well over 30 years have been fortunate enough to have experienced many aspects of the hairdressing Industry. In my many years of working with clients, I like to think that nothing shocks or surprises me many clients have shared every issue that may arise and come to us at our chair and station chair.

I’ve seen young women come in with orange roots and white ends. I’ve seen red roots and black ends.  I’ve seen hair looking like a traffic light from violet to blue, colors that usually are reserved for flowers.When I see these mistakes colour failures in some case hair nightmares one cannot help but feel oh so sorry for the client to which these hair are attached.

Normally when the color mistakes are so apparent the truth is impossible to ignore the poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic that one  really wants to help and fix this problem if at all possible. The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation. Then there are the liars. I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie. As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service.

Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

 A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change; let’s say going lighter.  We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.  whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage, If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair.  It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month.  If there is a any sort of line of demarcation, we know there was something “done” to the hair,  and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason.  When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything.  To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue.  In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. stale mate helps no one!

Here’s some information everyone needs to know.

Anything from a box color to a highlighting shampoo that causes any visible difference in your hair color has permanently altered the hair structure. Sun-In or anything like that, especially highlighting shampoos and conditioners have any variety of alkaline chemicals that diffuse your natural pigment. Beware of these products since they may contain sodium hydroxide which is relaxer. Any color from a box that is made from 2 or more components that are mixed together have some sort of peroxide component. Peroxide oxidizes your natural pigment, so if there is any alkaline in the formula, you will get lift. Many box colors say that they last 24 shampoos simply put if your color is changed by a box and if you grow out roots, it is not temporary the hair structure has been permanently affected. When hair is colored or receives any chemical service it is permanently affected till it is is cut off.

You may have correction to re colour blonde hair with brown pigment, it may be a perfect colour match  but the hair still has any inherent damage caused by the initial service in this case going blonde. As a client try and be as open as possible the more history the better  their is no advantage in trying to hide any chemical service that you have introduced into their hair.   there is no reason to hide any details no  matter what the box says informed decisions are easier to make with all the information at  hand and every thing must be taken into consideration.  When we ask you questions about what has happened to your hair for the past year or so, we need to know everything so we can make the right decisions for your services.

Next time you come in to get any chemical service done be completely honest with your colorist or  as a stylist you are doing a consultation make sure you ask all the right question.We can read the history of your hair and there is no need for deception.  After all, we have your best interests in mind.  As it’s said ‘The truth will set you free’. A lie may break your hair!

Our goal a professional stylist is to work with clients to deal with the issue at hand offering the best service possible supported with education knowledge and an honest understanding of what is possible given any situation and history. Always retaining the right to say ‘No’

Mike B2MR

some extra facts:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth. Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol. Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation. Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage. A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s  sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

There there is always the herbal organic products that you might want to consider.

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/01/30/natural-herbal-organic-hair-colour/


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Professional Hair colour dye the N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional hair colour or hair dye! what role does the N series have in colour choice and formulation? It is the opinion of Some hair colourist and or technicians that “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well. For me and many real professionalthat is not the case I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  

When you think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? Do you pull out that shade chart? do you use it correctly? Do you trust it? Do you do your own thing? Do you blame the product when colour goes wrong? Do you use it to refer to or in some cases do you just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! [ you may be smiling it happens] more often than you might think!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment. how it works how what you chose decides the out come the formulation you mix!

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. it’s main job is to deliver natural pigment and control the pigment exposed at the level you are working in.In other words be calibrated to deal with unwanted pigment and warmth.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour/dye Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! Hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue you have created. So what do you need? Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. You have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. You have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it. Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. A Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose, how do i control it! It’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level! So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you! when things go wrong consider what formulation you mixed what you expected from your choice . Most colour lines hair dyes that get change din salons are really down to poor technical ability and not the product. Poor formulation assessment and timing.

A poor Colourist / technician or stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! Education skill knowledge .Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise! have fun. Be professional. Be responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Challenge your self and those around you raise standards.

Herbal and organic colours and dyes.

It would not be fair of me to not mention that the same rules apply when using organic and herbal hair colour s and dyes. When they are Ammonia free the processes is still the same. The alkaline has been replaced by something normally sourced from wheat so a gain alcohol derivative becomes the driver in place of the ammonia in most cases the results as the same. The role the  N series plays in these colour lines would be the same. refinement of colour and addressing Grey issues.

Mike B2MR

 

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Full head bleaching and tone.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s    http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works. Hair Lighteners  and Decolourizers come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair. Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it. Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting. Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting ability is dictated by strength of hydrogen peroxide and timing formulation. 

Lotions Oil -Gel: 

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/scalp during the lightening process.Most powder bleaches are not recommended for direct scalp application they may cause reaction an for burning or irritation {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!

Ingredients:

The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide. { Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented  darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. It has no limits it can remove all pigment from the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.

Advantages:

*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.

Disadvantages:

*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment little or no peroxide is required.Designed to neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed in the lifting process.Deposit only no lift when using a toner in some cases low volume of peroxide may be required to activate the colour molecule. When toning one should always stay with it as it continues it’s neutralisation and despot until rinsed off.The should be considered as a from of colour correction.

                                    High lift Blonde series:

All these shades are toners:

B indicates Beige = Green Orange Base will neutralise pale yellow.

G indicates Gold =yellow orange base for warmth and tone.

V indicates  Violet= red blue base with neutralise  yellow or yellow pale orange

A indicates   Ash =blue  yellow green  will neutralise  Orange orange yellow

Above classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold. What might you use here?

To beige this look out on would use a violet toner worked in for a few minutes it would restore balance getting rid of unwanted warmth .again there is no exact time stay with it do not leave alone for any period. you may end up with  sludge tone!!!

I found a link for this skin test sight happy to share as i think skin testing is so important.

http://www.trichocare.co.uk/

                                                         Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin. Colour start is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon. Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

With a little patient a good consultation and some formulation planning a great shade of bleached an droned hair can be achieved without undue stress and or damage.

Mike B2MR

 

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Brazilian warnings


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Worth a look an listen a warning be informed be safe.With so much more information and warnings about the side effects from harmful fumes toxic formulation i feel compelled to share theses links  !! Mike

http://www.firstcoastnews.com/news/article/200418/3/Update-Local-Salon-Ceases-Brazilian-Blowouts-Due-to-Health-Risks

http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7397041n

http://healthland.time.com/2011/04/13/warning-getting-your-hair-straightened-could-be-hazardous-to-your-health/

Be professional stay informed don’t put profit over health!

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/03/26/health-or-wealth-in-your-salon/

Here is the reason why this products still sells. Why clients still want it. Stylist are still using and indeed recommending it! Ignorance and apathy. none caring salon owners. Toady i noticed a local salon running a promotion on the brazilian blow dry.I went in to see them with some information and links asked if they were aware of the dangers some of these product can cause to both stylist and client asked if they had proper ventilation and were aware of the health issues.
What was the response a polite thank you followed by a rolling of the eyes. with that look of who does he think he is!!! As i left i knew the information was going directly in the bin!!! None caring owner driven by the profit of course uneducated as to the risks and dangers and frankly did not care or wish to know ignorance is bliss. Sadly it will not be a good excuse if and when some gets ill.
How ever much we might care most in our industry as yet don’t care enough. Greed and quick short profit rule the day until more information is passed out more warnings nothing will change however much we discuss and voice an opinion.

http://www.businessinsurance.com/article/20120108/NEWS05/301089989#

Mike B2MR

 

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Perfect Blonde Hair colour for spring


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

How do you get a perfect balanced natural look blonde hair cloud that does not look dyed?

How does one attain a perfect level of lift to reach a natural looking blonde hair colour level. As discussed many time before in previous articles one has to consider lift deposit and the natural level of the hair to start with. I am writing this as a response to a search on the topic. The raised question was. To get from natural level 7 to 9? This would be a perfect level to reach and target colour attainable. Remember understanding colour how it works. How to neutralise or utilise those pigments you will expose in the lifting process requires that you consult and trust the colour wheel.

When lifting from a natural level 7 the pigment exposed with be as follows.

*7 expect Orange undertone:

*8 expect Orange/Yellow undertone:

*9 desired 9 expect Yellow:

My suggestion would be to use a high lift Blonde to reach this level of lift. It is possible to get the right level of lift without bleach!

High lift Blonde will give up to 4 levels of lift so 7 to 9 is perfect to expect target colour and shade.

I would suggest using either High lift 100A [ash] or 100V[violet] both of these will control pigment exposed.

For an ultimate Blonde here is a formulation that frankly rocks.

10 grams 100A, 10 grams 100V,  10 grams100B. 10 grams 100[clear] + 80 grams of 40 volume peroxide.  Remember 30 grams is = to 1 0z

You can change the mixing ratio as the above is a lot of product for short hair.

Mixing the different shades will give you more pigment to control the the pigment exposed whilst lifting.the 100 in most colour line sis a clear and gives you a little extra lift. Remember with most High lift products the amount of developer is increased  to a mixing ratio of i part colour to 2 parts developer [always follow direction of given product] development time is key here 50 minutes.this being  30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit.

Either of the suggested formulations will work giving a really nice level9 Blonde but always consider.

*1 previously coloured hair will respond differently.

*2 you cannot lift colour with colour. So if previously coloured High lift formulation will not lift out old colour.

*3 If in doubt and thinking of home colour or dye have a professional consultation follow directions. be safe.

I hope this is useful to all those want to be blondes out there! Mike B2MR

 

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Violet base hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about . Violet hair dye and or Hair colour keep coming up!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic! It’s required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde. It’s Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When thinking about violet as a colour or tone. We need to this question are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool reds. Those oh so cool shades and tones we see much of these days.Those blue reds, red mauves. Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair dye and colouring process? Violet as a shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But in many cases it’s a behind the scene role in the colour process. Key to successfully getting the shade you require is using an choosing the correct toner.

           High lift Blonde series: in some colour lines is also a toner

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series violet shades and tones will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart. This cant indicates the Violet and indeed blue violet based colours and toners are required when addressing pale yellow through to shades of yellow orange.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required. To balance out the pigment exposed in the lifting process,lifting to yellow or pale yellow is an ideal base to then tone to get a natural cool blonde.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it  This lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow / Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8 It’s all about balance. Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone ! See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment for the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this. Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose. Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above. In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process. Some bleaches even have!!

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!  Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions. Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR
 

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