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Category Archives: hair colour education

Professional Hair colour dye the N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional hair colour or hair dye! what role does the N series have in colour choice and formulation? It is the opinion of Some hair colourist and or technicians that “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well. For me and many real professionalthat is not the case I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  

When you think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? Do you pull out that shade chart? do you use it correctly? Do you trust it? Do you do your own thing? Do you blame the product when colour goes wrong? Do you use it to refer to or in some cases do you just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! [ you may be smiling it happens] more often than you might think!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment. how it works how what you chose decides the out come the formulation you mix!

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. it’s main job is to deliver natural pigment and control the pigment exposed at the level you are working in.In other words be calibrated to deal with unwanted pigment and warmth.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour/dye Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! Hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue you have created. So what do you need? Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. You have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. You have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it. Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. A Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose, how do i control it! It’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level! So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you! when things go wrong consider what formulation you mixed what you expected from your choice . Most colour lines hair dyes that get change din salons are really down to poor technical ability and not the product. Poor formulation assessment and timing.

A poor Colourist / technician or stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! Education skill knowledge .Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise! have fun. Be professional. Be responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Challenge your self and those around you raise standards.

Herbal and organic colours and dyes.

It would not be fair of me to not mention that the same rules apply when using organic and herbal hair colour s and dyes. When they are Ammonia free the processes is still the same. The alkaline has been replaced by something normally sourced from wheat so a gain alcohol derivative becomes the driver in place of the ammonia in most cases the results as the same. The role the  N series plays in these colour lines would be the same. refinement of colour and addressing Grey issues.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hairdressing education and sales:


Welcome to B2MR BACK2MYROOTS!

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

                                       Sales or sharing?

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

This topic is worthy of both discussion thought  and comment for it effects each and every one involved in the Hairdressing Industry.

Having Spent a number of years involved in Sales and education or is it? Education and sales: It’s so hard to know for one supports the other. [ chicken and egg what comes first] One side sales drives the education machine funding allowing technicians and educators into salons to share and demonstrate. On the other hand without the support of good education the sales go flat. Salons. Stylist lose interest, use products incorrectly getting bad results blaming the product! It is my view. That if you really trust and have belief in a product it will sell it self. If your educated a product how and why it works. If you have a passion for it, it’s easy to talk about it sells it self.

Why so much pressure on sales why fear education?

In salons many stylist hate education up dates. They look at educators as know it all’s They attempt to put then down show them up  in some cases resent them Why ?  FEAR!

Most salons change colour lines because of dissatisfaction with the product. If it does not perform well in reality the fault is with the stylist technician. But hey! It’s always easier to blame a product than take an honest look in the mirror! Tuff harsh words but true. I don’t know how many salons I’ve visited that so need education support but the staff the manager will not allow it. I also think that many sales representatives have very little respect for what a good passionate educator can do.product knowledge classes or in house training vents can make such a difference to a salon.

Why because they fear letting any one see that they don’t know everything! who does? The fact is Sales are Sales. Education is just educating. On how to correctly use and get the best out of the product that sharing knowledge giving support to the salon to the sales person to the staff this can only serve to improve. Standards. Skill. Knowledge. Why all the problems? Ego, Insecurity, Fear? or just an un-daunting need for control!  All things that are rife in society but for some reason really run rampant in the Hair beauty industry.

We have salon managers and owners who fear educating there staff to much. We have staff who hate to admit they have an issues or don’t understand. Will not admit that they want or need more education, skill and knowledge. We have professional Colour companies who market them selves with being professional. But flood the market with home colour kits. With little or no care for the effect on the high street salon The stylist trying to make a living build up a clientele not to mention the damage long term use can do from use of home colour.Building  passionate committed team that works together an want education is key to success.

Colour Companies that offer education to some to degree but maybe not fully transparent when it comes to formulation ! Maybe not totally honest about all the chemistry of any given product need to know bases! misleading. We have schools Colleges, Academy’s. All offering a level of training but! How qualified? How up to date are those trainers? How much do they really care? How skilled are they? How current are they? How they look! How professional are they/

We have young people coming into the industry with a false idea of how successful they can be. How much there is to learn. How long it takes to be a success. We have Stylist who reach a level of qualification and then sit back knowing everything knowing nothing? Why is this? so many skills to learn so many tools to understand?

We have all these different governing bodies have you ever tried contacting them to ask for a meeting or some information? good luck with that one. Am I out spoken? Well maybe but it’s done it’s said to create discussion, to open up debate, to see who really cares! Not to be politically correct.We have to raise question sot find answers.

I have over the years worked with  many like minded passionate industry professional and they are all of the mind that things could be better standards raised, knowledge shared. education improved so what can we do how can we make a difference?

How can we encourage an exchange of knowledge and information. disclosing of product information in an open transparent manner.  One with sales teams working with and supporting education. Stylist who constantly want to up-date. Teachers trainers. Who really care how to encourage the young stylist to have higher standards, skill, who pride themselves in levels of Service and consultation. This is possible by net working sharing reaching out. We have so many mediums available to us  this is such a huge multifaceted Industry. It’s exciting vibrant. It’s constantly growing, changing evolving, whilst at the same time standing still.

The Linked in professional hairdressing net working group is established in the hopes of attracting like minded people to join share and debate.

Many thanks Mike B2MR

My Blog and all links can be accessed via my web site.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Violet base hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about . Violet hair dye and or Hair colour keep coming up!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic! It’s required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde. It’s Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When thinking about violet as a colour or tone. We need to this question are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool reds. Those oh so cool shades and tones we see much of these days.Those blue reds, red mauves. Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair dye and colouring process? Violet as a shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But in many cases it’s a behind the scene role in the colour process. Key to successfully getting the shade you require is using an choosing the correct toner.

           High lift Blonde series: in some colour lines is also a toner

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series violet shades and tones will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart. This cant indicates the Violet and indeed blue violet based colours and toners are required when addressing pale yellow through to shades of yellow orange.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required. To balance out the pigment exposed in the lifting process,lifting to yellow or pale yellow is an ideal base to then tone to get a natural cool blonde.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it  This lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow / Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8 It’s all about balance. Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone ! See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment for the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this. Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose. Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above. In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process. Some bleaches even have!!

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!  Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions. Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR
 

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Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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