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Category Archives: hair colour education

Professional Hair colour dye the N series.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Professional hair colour or hair dye! what role does the N series have in colour choice and formulation? It is the opinion of Some hair colourist and or technicians that “rules are made for breaking”  Hum! Ego! is alive and well. For me and many real professionalthat is not the case I say ” understand and trust the colour wheel”  it works !  

When you think about hair colour. What goes through our head ? Do you pull out that shade chart? do you use it correctly? Do you trust it? Do you do your own thing? Do you blame the product when colour goes wrong? Do you use it to refer to or in some cases do you just drop it in a clients lap and say! What colour do you want today!!! [ you may be smiling it happens] more often than you might think!

How often do you consider what you want from that colour that tube of pigment. how it works how what you chose decides the out come the formulation you mix!

The N series is designed for what? To give you a natural looking base shade and cover Grey hair. It can be applied to go darker or lighter given the formulation you choose and considering the working environment and your end goal. it’s main job is to deliver natural pigment and control the pigment exposed at the level you are working in.In other words be calibrated to deal with unwanted pigment and warmth.

My question today is?

Do you consider what the process is? What your asking of any given shade? Lets take 8N for example a nice natural looking level of Blonde. what pigmentation would you expect and need from this miracle tube when working within a level 8 with 8N natural permanent tint/colour/dye Why do I ask this? Because it’s key.The same can be said for any given natural level and choice of N series. So back to question pigmentation. Do you understand it?

The pigmentation of any N series should be enough pigment to control the hairs natural pigment at any given natural level.! Hum what does this mean? Well lets think about our level 8 natural level.

If we mix a very basic formulation lets say 30grams[1oz] 8N 45grams 20vol peroxide 11/2oz]  what will happen? what do we, should we expect to happen?

The 20 volume peroxide will start to lift the hair through level 8 and into level 9 easy 20 vol 2 level lift by doing this we are exposing bring out the natural pigment in the hair so in this instance yellow with a hint of orange [if unsure look at the shade chart and colour wheel]

Having exposed this pigment through our choice of Peroxide. We now have to know [hope is not good enough] that our N series has enough pigment to deal with the issue you have created. So what do you need? Our Natural series must have a pigmentation of Blue Violet to control the pigment exposed and keep our colour natural. You have to control that yellow orange and restore balance.

A great deal to expect from a little tube of colour the same can be said for any natural level. You have to consider what we want from our colour but more importantly consider the formulation and what to expect from it. Of course if previously coloured hair and a root application we would have to colour balance the mid lengths and ends this would not be done with the N series or with peroxide. A Demi application and choice of matching shade will refresh previously coloured hair deposit only.

The key is to take the time to think lift deposit that is what am i going to expose, how do i control it! It’s balance it’s harmony between blue yellow and red at any given level!

The same can be applied to all shades Gold, Copper, Reds. Our choice of peroxide on any given natural level dictates. Whether our colour will be really bright or controlled. Why because we are adding pigment to the colour as soon as we lift the hair’s natural level! So please consider. It’s not just a tube that works wonders ! It’s a tube of pigment designed to help you attain you target colour, it’s use it’s application is down to you! when things go wrong consider what formulation you mixed what you expected from your choice . Most colour lines hair dyes that get change din salons are really down to poor technical ability and not the product. Poor formulation assessment and timing.

A poor Colourist / technician or stylist will always blame the colour .The reality is it’s not the colour! Take a look in the mirror yes that’s the problem !! Education skill knowledge .Think about what your wanting from that colour. Understand it. Read the technical book in your shade chart! yes the black stuff ! It’s called colour chart and manual for a reason.

The same applies to want wanting bright vibrant colours to enhance your choice on the shade chart. Think about the natural level and what pigment you can expose to enhance it. Maybe a Bright Red or Copper? if you don’t want the warmth think about level peroxide. Also what pigment base will control the pigment you will expose! back to the colour wheel! remember opposite neutralise! have fun. Be professional. Be responsible produce the very best colour and create the very best look you can. Challenge your self and those around you raise standards.

Herbal and organic colours and dyes.

It would not be fair of me to not mention that the same rules apply when using organic and herbal hair colour s and dyes. When they are Ammonia free the processes is still the same. The alkaline has been replaced by something normally sourced from wheat so a gain alcohol derivative becomes the driver in place of the ammonia in most cases the results as the same. The role the  N series plays in these colour lines would be the same. refinement of colour and addressing Grey issues.

Mike B2MR

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Hairdressing education and sales:


Welcome to B2MR BACK2MYROOTS!

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

                                       Sales or sharing?

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

This topic is worthy of both discussion thought  and comment for it effects each and every one involved in the Hairdressing Industry.

Having Spent a number of years involved in Sales and education or is it? Education and sales: It’s so hard to know for one supports the other. [ chicken and egg what comes first] One side sales drives the education machine funding allowing technicians and educators into salons to share and demonstrate. On the other hand without the support of good education the sales go flat. Salons. Stylist lose interest, use products incorrectly getting bad results blaming the product! It is my view. That if you really trust and have belief in a product it will sell it self. If your educated a product how and why it works. If you have a passion for it, it’s easy to talk about it sells it self.

Why so much pressure on sales why fear education?

In salons many stylist hate education up dates. They look at educators as know it all’s They attempt to put then down show them up  in some cases resent them Why ?  FEAR!

Most salons change colour lines because of dissatisfaction with the product. If it does not perform well in reality the fault is with the stylist technician. But hey! It’s always easier to blame a product than take an honest look in the mirror! Tuff harsh words but true. I don’t know how many salons I’ve visited that so need education support but the staff the manager will not allow it. I also think that many sales representatives have very little respect for what a good passionate educator can do.product knowledge classes or in house training vents can make such a difference to a salon.

Why because they fear letting any one see that they don’t know everything! who does? The fact is Sales are Sales. Education is just educating. On how to correctly use and get the best out of the product that sharing knowledge giving support to the salon to the sales person to the staff this can only serve to improve. Standards. Skill. Knowledge. Why all the problems? Ego, Insecurity, Fear? or just an un-daunting need for control!  All things that are rife in society but for some reason really run rampant in the Hair beauty industry.

We have salon managers and owners who fear educating there staff to much. We have staff who hate to admit they have an issues or don’t understand. Will not admit that they want or need more education, skill and knowledge. We have professional Colour companies who market them selves with being professional. But flood the market with home colour kits. With little or no care for the effect on the high street salon The stylist trying to make a living build up a clientele not to mention the damage long term use can do from use of home colour.Building  passionate committed team that works together an want education is key to success.

Colour Companies that offer education to some to degree but maybe not fully transparent when it comes to formulation ! Maybe not totally honest about all the chemistry of any given product need to know bases! misleading. We have schools Colleges, Academy’s. All offering a level of training but! How qualified? How up to date are those trainers? How much do they really care? How skilled are they? How current are they? How they look! How professional are they/

We have young people coming into the industry with a false idea of how successful they can be. How much there is to learn. How long it takes to be a success. We have Stylist who reach a level of qualification and then sit back knowing everything knowing nothing? Why is this? so many skills to learn so many tools to understand?

We have all these different governing bodies have you ever tried contacting them to ask for a meeting or some information? good luck with that one. Am I out spoken? Well maybe but it’s done it’s said to create discussion, to open up debate, to see who really cares! Not to be politically correct.We have to raise question sot find answers.

I have over the years worked with  many like minded passionate industry professional and they are all of the mind that things could be better standards raised, knowledge shared. education improved so what can we do how can we make a difference?

How can we encourage an exchange of knowledge and information. disclosing of product information in an open transparent manner.  One with sales teams working with and supporting education. Stylist who constantly want to up-date. Teachers trainers. Who really care how to encourage the young stylist to have higher standards, skill, who pride themselves in levels of Service and consultation. This is possible by net working sharing reaching out. We have so many mediums available to us  this is such a huge multifaceted Industry. It’s exciting vibrant. It’s constantly growing, changing evolving, whilst at the same time standing still.

The Linked in professional hairdressing net working group is established in the hopes of attracting like minded people to join share and debate.

Many thanks Mike B2MR

My Blog and all links can be accessed via my web site.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Violet base hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about . Violet hair dye and or Hair colour keep coming up!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic! It’s required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde. It’s Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When thinking about violet as a colour or tone. We need to this question are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool reds. Those oh so cool shades and tones we see much of these days.Those blue reds, red mauves. Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair dye and colouring process? Violet as a shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But in many cases it’s a behind the scene role in the colour process. Key to successfully getting the shade you require is using an choosing the correct toner.

           High lift Blonde series: in some colour lines is also a toner

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series violet shades and tones will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart. This cant indicates the Violet and indeed blue violet based colours and toners are required when addressing pale yellow through to shades of yellow orange.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required. To balance out the pigment exposed in the lifting process,lifting to yellow or pale yellow is an ideal base to then tone to get a natural cool blonde.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it  This lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow / Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8 It’s all about balance. Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone ! See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment for the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this. Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose. Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above. In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process. Some bleaches even have!!

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!  Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions. Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR
 

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Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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Blonde issues and thoughts


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Time to move on lets look at Blonde hair colouring issues :

Lets start with a case study of Highlights and low lights  [lift and deposit] This in it self can create many issues both from a technical stance and from a client stylist relationship point of view. Many years of experience have shown me that when a client is unhappy with her blonde hair the maintenance required and yes the cost things can start to go down hill on the communication front.

Let me introduce to you our client Emily and our Stylist Ted.

Emily has long hair and is a natural level 6 [mouse/rat] she loves being blonde but over time feels that she has lost the highlighted look that she so loved and that the maintenance and cost is starting to become an issue an condition is starting to be a worry!

The consultation: Ted sit down with Emily and off the bat say’s you have no idea how many young women like your self i have this conversation with. Just how common place this issue is. But don’t worry it’s fixable today and maintainable for the future. Oh really says Emily that is so good to hear I was worried that was future was turning very dark! Does this look ring any bells with you as a stylist? Back with. Ted he begins to explain that over time sadly the highlighted look can get lost it’s a mixture of a few factors, some responsibility for this falls with you the client some with us stylist’s. Yes he say’s not perfect just trying to be! They both laugh another good sign.

Firstly says Ted. I agree that Blonde works well for you you have the perfect natural base shade the problem is over time you and your stylist have allowed your hair to get to blonde. It has lost any any depth and tone and just become a bleached highlighted look.You see say’s Ted the lighter we allow you hair to the quicker the roots will appear. It’s not intentionally done it creeps up. But it’s my opinion that we as stylist’s owe it you as our clients to be honest and some times draw the line when it comes to letting you go blonder and blonder!  Ted goes on to say. We have to explain to you what we think is best.You may not always listen or like what you hear, but hey you are paying me for my professional advise as well as my skill. Wow say’s Emily that’s a first no one have ever told me all that.

Well here is what we are going to do.

Firstly only Highlight the top half of your head and this will be some highlights to keep you blonde and we will re introduce two other shades.One shade at your natural level and a nice Beige to pull it all together. we will then fill in all the under section of your hair taking it back to your own colour. Ted explains that the darker under section will look more natural and look way better when Emily put her hair up. Emily says sounds great lets do it!

A Formulation for this: 

Roots 1oz [30 grams ] Bleach powder with 2oz [60 grams] 2o Volume peroxide.This will be used on the weaved highlights but only on the roots and with a slight over lap to prevent banding.

Second formulation is two mixtures:

8N with 30 Volume. Why more lift but the pigmentation of the 8N will control the yellow orange we will expose making it a nice beige.1oz 8N  11/2 oz 30 volume peroxide roots only Mid lengths and ends 8B Demi lotion formulation mixing ration 1oz 8B to 2oz Demi lotion developer for mid lengths and ends so we are in effect lifting and depositing at the same time.[ mark your bowls so you don’t mix them up] Final Formulation 6B as a Demi formulation  for deposit only this is also the shade we will run through the under section again no lift just deposit. 2oz 6B 4oz Demi lotion developer enough to do both the low light and go straight in to the under section application. Making full use of your time and not wasting product.

Once all the formulations mixed up Ted sets to work. Oh says Emily you don’t use foil no say’s Ted I like these waxed papers they stay much closer to the roots they don’t slip less pain when i take them out! Oh i like the sound of that says Emily, it’s always painful.Not today says Ted! Once all done the process time will be dependent on the last few Highlights we have put in says Ted. But don’t worry I stared at the front so they will be a little blonder and we will not lift the crown as much. the Darker shade is none progressive so stops once it reached desired colour. So all good be patient no heat but will not be to long. they wait the out come.

Ted checks the progress a couple of times and after 30 Minutes it ready to come off he takes all the papers out and then rinses very quickly holding the highlighted hair away from the darker underneath once it’s all rinsed of colour it’s a normal shampoo and conditioning process.

Remember those dark roots that line of demarcation? All gone and blended in. Now we have a very natural looking Blonde with highlights and low lights to tone it down and control the root issue. Emily say’s she is so happy it’s the best it’s been is such a long time. Ted says leave it as long as possible our goal is to get you coming back every three months. Why are not all hairdresser like you most say 6 weeks are says Ted. Here is the deal you like your hair you tell your friends you and your friends and their friends keep me busy  to the point that i can only see you every three months!Oh says Emily i see  me and my friends keep you busy I hope so says Ted.

Oh and as for the under section check this out! As a form of re colouring and depositing pigment I cannot express enough what a wonderful gentle formulation a Demi application is. It will give even depth and tone without the need for and lift. Its a satin finish that loos so natural. give it a try. I think that as stylists we have so many options choices of technique and products at our disposal, we are truly very lucky. Oh and having great clients helps. We have so many issues that can arise when working with our clients to create that natural blonde look to maintain it.The key is communication and honesty. Our clients will always push to be that little bit blonder it’s up to us as professional to some times to pull the reins in to prevent future issues.

What are these issues, They normal arise from over processing, poor condition, colour fading. longevity of colour lasting, leading to cost issues. Always keep your client on track be open about maintenance issues cost of up keep. Remember your the professional your in control.

As promised some extra views and thoughts on some Blonde hair issues 

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair,  badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms. Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice. All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

                             blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is    it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider.  The above is a perfect balance of high lights and low lights a very natural multi-tonal look.

Well we are having a very varied day and lets be honest the time needed to deal with all these issues is quite considerable. But with all the knowledge we had and all the new knowledge we have we should be coping very well.

enjoy Mike B2MR

 

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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

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