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Category Archives: hair colour trends

Low lights and multi tonal shades


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low light colour: A technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades with going unduly light:

How can one create these looks?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that need for in depth consultation both parties if using a professional stylist or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required. The target colour and then tones and shades being used. Again this is so dependant on starting point previous history.

We will use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde.

One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured or never processed hair. The Look tends to to work well on a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair. In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots. For the sake of this lets not go to complicated. We will presume grown out Highlights and low lights.This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is. Creating a lighter brighter look, lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very light or bright bright ends. Known as ‘Ombre technique’

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colourwould be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer. I might suggest on our pre-coloured hair using three different levels of ‘Bleach decolouriser’ fading them into each other. How? You may ask. Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions

.2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to. You may had have to use a toner to blend.

1*Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

2*Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade desired or required. If going darker you will not require a formulation to lift this will only introduce unwanted warmth! For tone on tone or darker hair deposit only use a Demi formulation.

If wanting to go lighter or richer  or for more vibrant colours some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history and choice of shades and tones. Again play with both colour or shade choice and level of peroxide. Just remember as you increase the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment or warmth you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! Yes a balancing act. Caution: Over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour! 10 volume would bring out the required pigment with out over lifting.

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair. I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice. Here is my choice and suggestion.Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play. How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

My choice would be 8A or 9A Why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time, think through both. Timing, application, formulation. Use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique. You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation. Remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area.Two different formulation on each weave. Have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results.

Mike B2MR

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Home based successful hair salon business


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I think that it might be time to share a journey taken by myself into building and establishing a home based hairdressing business. Without any advertising fully booked successful in one year lets call it 0 to 50 that was the turn over year one.

My Journey:

At the time I was working as an educator and platform artist for a large North American hair product and hair colour company.Whilst really enjoying the shows.The travel.The events it had it’s down time and just doing salon hair colour education update was not challenging enough. I decided to set up a salon at home to fill in the down time and keep doing hair.This would be a small one man business built using my skills creativity and knowledge. My mandate would be to offer the highest standard of. Hair colouring. Colour correction, and razor cutting.

I would be using the skills and knowledge that educations had provided me with. My goal and vision was  to build up a strong clientele a loyal following. Built up on recommendation word of mouth. No advertising very defined boundaries and work ethics and working hours. I will cover boundaries, working hours and indeed charges as we move on.

Have a business model a Vision:

This business model was not conceived on a whim it was built on experience gained over many years in the Hairdressing industry. Ask your selves this question. Why do we spend so much, time, money and energy looking for. New clients.Promoting the salon generally searching for that quick fix of success. Those big fully booked pay out days? When all the success we could ever want is right at our fingers tips.

What is this secret there is not one common sense!

Here are some easy tips that work and we will re visit and cover in some depth.

*High Standard of service.

*Honest consultation.

*Friendly but professional attitude.

*Skilled and knowledgeable.

*Affordable pricing.

*Regular hours.

*No waiting.

*Trust and defined Boundaries-house /salon rules.

*Very personal one on one service. keeping up to date client records history formulations.

*Product knowledge

See not a huge list:

The keys to being very successful with a business that builds and maintains it self. keep it simple so lets go thorough the list in some depth.

To start this business i had to draw on my past experience with hair salons. Having managed a hair salon in Central London experienced ownership i had a good idea about business set up.

Experience of working with salons in Ontario, Vancouver and on Vancouver Island also helped me set up this small business. Contacts and relationships made with sales representatives also helps. Yes reps can be your friend.

When staring a business: It is very important to get some advise from certain bodies.

*Bank business account

*Accountant

* Distributor

* check into Licenses, registration that me be required.

* keep clear records,invoices and receipts.

High standards of service:

What does this mean to me. It’s being attentive. It’s being welcoming. Its the atmosphere.The scene you set and create. This was me projecting me. Who I am. How I work. I would think of my salon as my space, as my play room, my sand box.

Service:

This is being. Attentive. Caring. Willingness to listen. To be honest. Ask the right question. Make your client feel at easy comfortable. This is so important it sets the scene for open and honest discussion that all important consultation.

I would also take this time whilst getting them settled to explain how I work and why. Give a brief history of my self and career my belief and mandate.

Time to shine:

This is a good time to show how knowledgeable you are and also show a little authority on the subject matter. That being hair and colouring. Of course answer any general questions that may arise. It is also a good time and way to assess the client. To get a feel for who they are. What their expectation might be and so how demanding they may be. We will touch more on this.

This moves nicely on to Honest Consultation.

This is such an important time to have the art of conversation and use and asses so much. The key is to be frank and honest about  the clients goals expectation. It is this time that you get to ask questions get a history of past services.

It is your time to assess the condition the look. You start to get an idea of what might or might not be possible. Remember the art of the consultation is to get your client to open up not just about past hair colour and style. But  you can also lead the conversation asking the questions to get the client to open up. Instead of. What do you want? How do you feel about? What would you like to see? In a perfect world. How do you see you style and colour? Remember. Honesty on your part as the stylist is the key.

Normally when the colour mistakes are apparent the truth is impossible to ignore. The poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic.  So much so, that one really wants to help and fix this problem if at all  possible.This would in some cases be correction.

Client honesty:

The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation.

Then there are the liars. or mistruth tellers!

I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie.  As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service. This is not possible when a client make a choices not to give all the information or answer question honestly.

 Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change. let’s say going lighter. We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.

whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage. If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair. It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month. If there is a any sort of line of demarcation. We know there was something “done” to the hair and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason. When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything. To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue. In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. Stale mate helps no one!

The main thing not to forget is why the client is sitting in front of you.What can you do for her! The client, service, consultation, listening, honesty, humility, staff training and continued Education updates for all staff.

In some cases after a consultation it is ok to suggest that giving the hair a break from chemical service is the only way forward. If they will not commit to this. Then take my advise stop!

If a clients has hair that is really badly done. Over processed damaged beyond help. Unless they want to listen to you take your advise. If you don’t feel that you can improve on this. If it will not be an advert for you.Then why would you get involved it’s ok to say No!

If it’s is not going to be a good advert for you. Not going to be representative of your talent and ability. Why get involved?

Consider this:

Badly done over processed hair. As soon as you agree to fix it you are taking responsibility for all that has been done in the past! Consider is it worth it! If you decide to take this on them make them sign a client waive release form.

As a stylist consider are you fixing this. Because you can or do you have something to prove is this. I can do! Or EGO driven. For me having boundaries being professional is being able to say No it’s Ok it’s honest it’s real it’s professional!

Friendly welcoming but professional:

Is this possible you may ask your self? Yes it is, it’s the key to success. For it makes your client feel special wanted important. Now you don’t have to be all gushy nor false. It’s more about keeping a conversation real and about them.

That being said sharing some of your own life is also ok. Just not that. Did you have a nice week end are you going on Holiday stuff!!!

It’s all about the three things to remember about your clients. People. Places. Things. listen to what they tell you take it in remember key things work life family it show you care and do listen.

Keeping it professional:

That is giving sound advise not bowing to silly demands those boundaries established are still key.

For example when they re approach the subject of cutting their husbands hair by stroking your ego saying how good you are. Thank them remind them that you don’t do guys hair. but say nice try though! I would always say i don’t enjoy male company however nice they are!

Remember key points:

keep good records when was last visit. last hair style the look, ultimate goal. If in doubt keep notes review before they arrive.

Its ok still shows you care. You are building trust. The three R rule works very well when building these trusting relationships.

                            “Reputation.Recommendation.Retention”



Mike B2MR

 

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Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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New year new look ready for blonde


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

New year perfect time to think Blonde

With the start of the new year, why not consider stepping things up a colour change or just re vamp to brighten than colour !

The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That natural looking bright holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan for that feel good look.

If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look? Some blondes can be subtle honey or golden others well just full on blonde.

What works for you? what shade do you like?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you.

Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible.

Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while. How about from red head to honey blonde!

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues,

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair.

Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or long fringe or bangs!

Formal up do with lots of colour and tone to create dimension and texture .

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage.

Mike B2MR

 

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Season greeting: Merry Christmas:


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                       Happy Christmas   

                                            thank you

Economically a challenging year for many It’s from times like this we can grow learn challenge our selves with creative thinking.

I would like to thank everyone who as read any topic’s all those who have shared and contributed to either blogs or the groups shared discussions net worked.

A very big thanks to all those committed professionals that i have met in the cyber world talked with exchanged views with you have helped me grow and learn.

You have encouraged and showed me that what i do is all worth while so many thanks. A special  thanks to Karen and David all members of salon groove and all those over 400 in our ever growing international Linked in professional hairdresser net working group. All at HABIA for you do a great job.

Finally all those who follow on twitter face book and that have connected via linked in the world gets smaller as we get bigger. to all those who have commented o Photo’s re blogged and posted http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/ as we have shared photos of places and events Thank you.

Lots to look forward to in the new year some new challenges a new source for topic’s and sharing.

Have very wonderful Christmas with family and friends be safe be i will be back in the new year 2012. with new articles and topic’s.

 Season greetings happy new year 2012! Mike B2MR

 Happy Christmas

                2011

Look forward to sharing

                2012

 

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The colour wheel lift deposit pigment tone,


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

Having re posted a slightly changed version on bleach lift and tone yesterday I have decided to follow it with on eon the colour wheel lift and deposit for they all work together well. We all need reminder of the importance of understanding and trusting the laws of colour and the colour wheel. Be it for lift and deposit bleaching and or toning.

As a stylist do you  understand the ‘Law of Color’ ?  As they relate to hair colouring?Yes Laws? Oh your one of those! Hands on stylist who are fortunate enough to know everything. who don’t need to know or understand the law’s of colour. Your a free spirited artist!  Your just someone with a huge Ego who muddles along getting bye with hit and miss colouring mishaps! A stylist who when things go wrong blames the product! How and why understanding and indeed trusting the colour wheel is so important to succeed.

Hair color is an art.  it is also a chemistry it’s a process. The natural laws as they relate to hair colour  apply to everybody everywhere. They work off of a Natural scale of hair depth and tone one to ten. The  higher the number lighter the shade or level. Laws are simple they are  beyond one’s control they never require a second guess or questioning. Never the less we still insist on the odd experiment to verify them. When you come to accept the law of  colour cannot be broken then you learn to trust it, you always know the outcome. The laws of hair color  are important and often very neglected. It’s imperative that all professional hair stylists know why we do what we do. Why do you choose the color you do to use on your client?

When you as a stylist take the time to learn the universal laws of hair color. You will be better equipped to work with and advise your client on the best course of action and an ideal formulation for them.

What is colour?

Colour is light and pigment. When we color someone’s hair with the right choice of colour, we can emphasize their skin tone and eye color. When we understand these laws and trust them we can grow and improve. understanding is one thing trust is much more! We will never have to guess the outcome of our  results will always feel in control confident and professional.

Essentials of Color

There are three essential traits of color.  Working from a natural level. The any given natural level will always have a hue: a leaning towards one of the primary colours found in the hair example. red, yellow, blue. The percentage of the hue is called saturation. Gold or copper is a good example of a low percentage (saturation) of red. Tone is the lightness or darkness of a color. For example, Copper is a tone of Red with a percentage of Yellow and indeed in some case a tinge of Blue. Balance always

The Color Wheel

There are three primary colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.

They are called primary because all other colors are made from them. 

The secondary colors:

Blue + Red = Violet, Red + Yellow = Orange,  and Yellow + Blue = Green

Tertiary colors are made by mixing the primary and secondary colors together. There are six possible combination’s. They are yellow-orange, red-orange, red-violet, blue-violet, blue-green, and yellow-green.

Two colors are called complimentary colors if when mixed together they produce a neutral color.  They are located opposite from each other on the color wheel. When you mix any color with their complimentary color:

You will produce a neutral or browned-out color. sometimes Mud is created.

A colorist should not only always consult and understand the color wheel.

It is a tool that will be used almost every time you color a client’s hair. It will help you create colors with a better understanding of utilising and neutralising pigment and tone.  contrasting colors are placed directly across from their opposite.  This is very important since it is necessary to know which colors can be used to “neutralise” or “brown-out” undesired tones.

A good example of this and indeed a common issue for stylists is neutralising unwanted orange and yellow tones in the hair. When you know and understand the color wheel and can see that violet is the opposite of yellow on the color wheel, you can then choose a violet pigment in order to neutralize the yellow.  Violet being a even mix of red and blue. these will restore balance to unwanted yellow  creating a natural tone. If the unwanted color is orange, you can see that blue is the color to use to neutralize the unwanted tone. Orange being made up or Yellow and Red so blue is required to restore balance.See it;s easy common sense and understanding.

The color wheel is also separated into warm and cool colors. Blue (one of our three primary colors) is the coolest cool color and is also the darkest. It generally lives at a level three, masking out both gold and warm red tones or Hue!  The more blue that is added to your hair color the more it will produce a darker, cooler tone. Red or yellow (our other primary colours) are warm colors. Adding red to your hair color formula will create a warmer tone. Just as blue is the darkest cool toned color, yellow is the lightest warm toned color. Adding yellow to your color formula will always produce a lighter, brighter color. depending on the level you are working at Yellow normally comes out to play between the natural level 7 to 10 any level darker than this the yellow will be over powered by either the Red or Blue Pigment.

This is such a huge topic that one can expand on when introducing the effects of lift from chosen formulation and level strength of hydrogen peroxide or developer. These lifting agents will expose pigment as they lift the hair in the colour process adding warmth from the hair to your formulation.

So again understanding the colour wheel really is key.

Good luck Mike B2MR

 

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Home hair colouring. Is it for you?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s

HOME HAIR COLOUR.  

EXPOSED – UNPLUGGED! informative.

I have decided to post this Article my hope to cover as many aspects and topic’s as i can . As always i hope it’s useful quite a long article so much to cover! Its a variation on topic that is well covered but i think oh so very useful like the colour wheel needs warrants constant attention and re addressing.

                                                                                                                                                                                             Challenges:

One of the biggest dangers that the home consumer face when heading down to the chemist or supermarket for that perfect shade of hair colour is impulsiveness yes the powers of advertising.

Celebrities, models, fashion magazines, marketing, advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair colour.You can instantly transform your life making you look and feel better.

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases .Any home hair colouring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets not to mention in some cases long lasting damage

Is it possible to create very successful looks from a home hair colour tones and hues with reasonable success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colour technician,

With some careful planning. A list of realistic expectations with a little patience and knowledge, new shades of blonde, radiant red and chocolate brown can all be possible.

As can the funky bright fashion shades the key is as much as possible not to over process your hair with over bleaching, take the time to consider the colours you want and your expectation not just short term!

Un-Tangling the world of Home Hair Colouring:

The following tips and advise will hopefully help you navigate through a vast array of hair colours with ravishing results:  never just hold the box up to your head to see if the colour on the boxes matches!

                                        {Above over processed home Blonde kit:}

Plan your hair color strategy well. 

Prospective home hairdressers carefully evaluate your colour goals before they even consider making a product purchase maybe have a consultation with a professional colour technician. be honest with yourself about wants goals  . Be honest with stylist about all past history and colour application. A good way to do this is keep old packaging !

Every one experimenting with home hair colour especially newbies should study all of the current hair colour formula options. ask advice seek information.

Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:

 Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations.

Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia.  or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is re.coloured.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift  timing essential.

Below make over shot from above 

      The colour was done with Highlights and panels using only Demi formulation tore pigment hair!

Double Process Colour – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New colour is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle. some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. explanation also applies to the high fashion bright colours.

While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?

That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!

 Note:  If you are unsure how your  hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.

If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them.  
Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them.

As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.

 Skin Tone, eye colour, Features, Age:

After you have decided on the right colour process, evaluate the best shade for your age, skin tones and other facial features. It is important that you also take into consideration your lifestyle and how much maintenance you are able to handle to keep your colour fresh and root free.

Things to consider tips to follow:

Keep in mind that hair colour can lift and lighten, match existing colours and brighten or provide depth through darker, richer hues.

Focus on colors that are soft, natural and classy.  Consider choosing shades that will slightly lighten, brighten or deepen your current  tone.

Select a shade that blends well with your current hair colour that is no more than a maximum of two shades lighter or darker than your own.  It is important to stay in close colour range to avoid a stark color   demarcation line.

Consider your age when selecting colours.  Select products and colours that are designed for your age group.  


Keep in mind that colors marketed to much younger consumers are not designed to handle Grey and may be too bright for your skin and eye tones.

Remember that after certain ages skin may take on a slight yellow tint.  Soften this look with shades that have a golden base

If you wish to cover Grey, be sure to buy a product that is specifically formulated to deal with the  Grey issue.

Some of the darker shades may intensify wrinkles or other aging signs.  To instantly peel off some years, go one or two shades lighter

Consider buying an extra hair color kit in case of unforeseen problems or if your hair is extremely long or thick you may wish to use two kits to guarantee complete coverage.

With the bright Colour fashion shades you are normally looking for shock value not something subtle having said this the rules still apply some colours will look better on you than others.

                                            Pic Avantgarde artistic Team  

The steps to Success!

Guide lines advice:

Once you have selected the hair color product and hue for you, complete the following steps:

Check the expiration date while still at the store to make sure the product is still viable.

                                               Below before shot over processed hair:

Once home, immediately examine all the contents in the box. Make sure you have everything stated on the packaging Read the instructions carefully. If anything missing, immediately return the product to where it was purchased.

As always I would suggest a skin patch test at least 48 hours before you colour.

Although you may have used hair colour products in the past, it is very important to do a patch test to protect against an unexpected allergic reaction.  products can change formulation change!
Even if you have been colouring for years, allergies can develop out of the blue and cause serious health risks if not treated immediately.

Do a strand test at least 24 hours before you take the final colour step. Although this process postpones the coloring tasks, it is important to get a good preview of how your hair will look with the selected colour. If you don’t like the results,you can abandon  the project before applying the product to your entire head. Better safe than sorry when it comes to living with unexpected colour results.

Assemble your hair colour tool kit. Gather together a plastic pick or comb, timer, an old shirt and two dark towels that you don’t mind staining. Consider adding a protective covering for the floor since some    hair colors can splatter and be messy.

Make sure you have a good pair of rubber gloves. most kit supply gloves but of poor quality may not fit as well as desired also when getting gloves check out if you want latex or not!

If you plan on repeat colouring, a box of disposable good  quality gloves is a sound investment. staining can be an issue barrier cream on  hand is a good idea. some products supply application bottles but a bowl and brush give very good coverage,

Above make over hair look rich natural happy!

Applying The Colour:

Once you are ready to actually apply the colour consider the following tips:

It is best to apply colour to hair that has not been washed for at least 24-48 hours to take advantage of the buildup of natural hair oils. these help to protect your scalp.


 If a lot of styling products are used on a regular basis, consider using a shampoo with a clarifying shampoo at least one week before using home hair colour, this will help remove any excess products layered onto the cuticle. do not use clarifying shampoo as a regular product it will lighten and fade you colour!

Pick a time when you are relaxed and will not be disturbed. Once you mix the colour, use it right away. Play some soothing or fun music that helps you stay focused on the task at hand.

Before you start, re read the instructions from beginning to end.  Make sure that you have everything required in the kit.

Follow all the instructions completely! in the order in which they are suggested.

Dispose of any leftover colour as soon as you are finished.{safely}  Once the colours have been mixed, any unused amounts should not be reused at a later date.

To avoid forehead or hairline stains, apply a light layer of Vaseline or similar product right below where the colour will be applied to contain drips or stains.  If you do see drips, wipe them up immediately with an old wet washcloth.

You start applying colour at the back of your head and work forward to make sure that the product is applied evenly and does not smear”.  Tip bad stains on skin can indicate that the ph of the colour in high [skin has a Ph 7 so bad stains suggest the colour must be very high Ph ]  tip bad stains windex on cotton wool,

Jaw clamps or salon clips are not usually provided.  If you feel you need to clip off sections that are newly coloured or hair that is waiting to be colored, invest in some metal clips to help colour in a more organized process.

First timers:

If you’ve never coloured before, carefully apply product from roots to the ends. If you have Virgin hair i would suggest applying colour to the mid lengths and ends first roots last they will lift and take the colour the quickest! if in doubt seek professional advise.

For previously coloured hair, be careful to only apply colour to new hair growth. It is important not to overlap colour be patient to allow the full development time watching the colour develop in a mirror from time to time.  It is impossible to know what the results are until the process has finished and the hair is washed and dried.know that you are changing colour and it will go through different stages as the colour develops.

If this is your first time coloring at home or you are nervous about the results, ask a friend to colour sit with you in case you miss some spots or are unsure how the colour is developing.

When the colour is finished processing shampoo out as described in the instructions.  Allowing colour to stay on longer than recommended will not achieve better results.  Hair colour is designed to stop processing at a set point and no matter how long you leave it in your hair, it will not alter the fact that the processing has finished.

If toning it will carry on depositing on porous or bleached hair if left on for prolonged period.

When to seek professional advise Hair colour:

If considering home hair colour and you fit into one of the following groups:

This type of colour change can be very tricky and  maybe a good time for consultation and  advice of a professional to be fully aware of all of your options an choices.

If you are going from Blonde / Darker or very Dark to light Blonde

If your tresses tend to pick up lots of reds or other unwanted tones.

Your hair has been chemically treated (straightened, waved) in the last 30 days.

You desire a complicated technique such as block or strap colours or multi-dimensional highlights and low-lights.

You have previously experienced allergic reactions to hair colour products.

After you have successfully walked through all the steps and have achieved the new color of your dreams, consider the fact that proper post-maintenance will help keep your strands soft and extend the life of the colour.

I hope this was helpful Mike B2MR

 

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