RSS

Category Archives: Hair Colour

Colouring / advise, tips, discussion,
realistic product and application over views

Red Copper hair dye and colours maintaining them.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                        Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

Be it home hair dye.professional colour good reds and copper hair colours are possible work with a stylist who understands colour the issues hair chart and will work with you on your hair dye issues.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools. Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone. The more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play, we achieve this with the correct choice of peroxide the lifting agent that exposes the pigment we want to use. But even this is a balance to much lift will remove the red and orange, so depending on the vibrancy required we choose the strength of peroxide to expose the pigment we want. unless we are going tone on tone as the swatch is to the right the no lift is required just deposit.

Lets Introduce Dawn our client and Russell her stylist.

Dawn loves to play around with levels of and tones of red and coppers. I many cases this does not always turn out with good results it can sometimes fade quite quickly. Dawn again in their consultation explains to Russell that she has enjoyed being a lighter more copper shade over the summer but wants to know if she can go darker over the winter months. she also want a change of style.

Russell explains that this is possible and that it will not restrict going lighter in the future. He goes on to explain that although the roots would need a permanent colour formulation the rest can be done with a Demi permanent colour formulation. This allows for better colour retention and will allow for a switch back to a lighter or more vibrant colour in the future.

During the consultation with Russell. Dawn mentions that the Grey seems to be getting progressively worse. Russell explains that when natural red or copper hair starts to go Grey or lose it’s pigment it tends to look more salt and pepper this can make it look dull. However the up side is that although not as vibrant in it’s appearance it still has a great deal of gold pigment so receives colour more readily and is still quite easy to get target colour. Dawn has about 25% Grey hair per 2 inch section. This would require that 25% of the root formulation be on the N series at the desired level. Finally Dawn also say’s that although she wants to go darker and more solid it must still work with her skin tone and eye colour. Russell say’s that he totally agrees and that so long as we keep the colour warm and don’t go to dark it will not be problem.

As a note once you go darker than a level 5 you are getting more into brown shades due to the amount of blue pigment found in the colour. Russell brings over a few chosen swatches from the shade chart holding then against her face showing Dawn how the colours work with her skin tone and eye colour. They agree on a level 5 shade with a red almost brunette tone. Dawn say’s she is ready for a change and says thank you for all the explanations.

Down to the colour choice.

Although the target is a level five to use a level 5 formulation would be to dark. Given the percentage of Grey of 25% 5N will provide the pigment for the Grey issue and give the colour depth. The rest of the roots formulation 6RB {red beige} 75% , plus 20 volume peroxide

Mixing ratio 1 part colour to 11/2  times peroxide or mixing 7.5 grams 5N+ 22.5 grams 6RB or 1oz. to 45 grams 20 volume peroxide or1 1/2 oz [30 grams =1 oz]

A little technical i hope not!

The reason behind this would be the 5N provide the pigment and controls the warmth exposed by the peroxide [no hot roots] the 6RB gives depth and tone. To colour balance once the root application has been applied the colour application mid lengths to ends,  just 6RB with a Demi formulation deposit only left on for 20 minutes. After full processing time again off to the back wash fro shampoo and conditioning

.

Remember this was a colour request to address both Grey issues and take the colour darker with an even colour healthy colour, no hot roots or line of demarcation.

Russell sits with Dawn and explains that to colour her roots is a fine balance of using the N series to colour the Grey. But not wanting it to be drab or dulled down warmth has to be kept. One of the dangers Russell explains this is something known as Hot roots! we see them all the time. Sadly done by professionals as well as the at home when using home hair dye applications. It’s caused by to much lift at the roots this brings out to much natural red/orange pigment and lifts the roots to much creating a very bright line. Known as hot roots. In reality it’s a formulation lacking blue pigment.

Above first shots a before shot showing hot root issue dark ends. Below new colour showing rich dark vibrant even colour with textured razor cut.

Remember the Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker.Careful regular maintenance is essential.use of good shampoo and condition at home is also highly recommended. stylist should recommend home hair care retail advise. Finally a happy smiling clients says it all. job well done

Some tips on hot and cool reds,vibrant coppers:

Is it seasonable reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours. When we think of reds their are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour

choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients Hair. All food for thought? but we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on  tone, to go Darker to lighter the key is to A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain  what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun. use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race.

Using this  method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. Consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job! Discuss with your client a long term plan and vision that allows for change and creativity.

All shots below and above the same model so change is possible so is long term client retention and relationships!

 

Tags: , , , , , ,

Hair colour make over colour correction


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our tool box of knowledge is full: We also have to have an understanding of hair colour.Different types of hair dye and trust the colour chart.

Lets consider what is a make over and what would be classed as mild correction.

Before I introduce client and stylist, lets share a little history. This young lady is in her teenage years. Like most teenagers experimented  home colour and going Blonde. One day she decided that she would go to a professional stylist and have it taken from being to blonde back to her own colour a basic colour dye job! or so she thought.

The picture to the below is after the salon had to attempts at correcting it back to her own colour. The result being hair with a green Hue know by us professionals as Mud. Why Mud? well when re pigmentation of the hair is required it is essential to re build the hairs natural pigment mantle using the correct shade of dye consulting the colour chart helps. If you don’t do this and apply the incorrect shades and tones the pigments can clash with each other or neutralise each other out causing a muddy colour. Once this has happened it’s really hard to  re balance it.

What happened in this case was an under qualified hairdresser took the job on she applied her natural level as a tint or permanent colour using 6N with 20 volume peroxide with out any thought to pigment missing the effect of adding yet more lift to the hair. no consideration to poor condition, past history and finally the under tone pigment in that level 6N.

A totally mess when it went wrong she then tried toning it with various other shades to kill the green hue hence the mud shade created. she even had the audacity to charge for this total mess. the young girl knew no better than to pay. having been lead to trust this was the best the colour could be!

How do you fix this? Could you?

Well let me introduce to you Kate our client and Alex out stylist:

This really is a challenge. To have the full history of the above hair colour disaster maybe find out what hair dye was used, Alex has to do his consultation with Kate. The key here is for Alex to get as much information a she can about past history and also get a clear idea as to expectation. At this point he has to honestly tell Kate what is possible.This cannot be ego driven it has to be within his own skill and ability. Trust me when i say it takes a bigger person to say sorry this is beyond me than to muddle on. Remember we have already had one professional screw up. As soon as Alex agrees to take this on he assume all responsibility for it. [ strand test, optional client wavier release form, fully advised of process]. Having chatted with Kate two things are established she knows her hair is very over processed and damaged she wants to look and feel better she is open to change both of colour and cut.

Alex goes on to explain  that although the really bad colour in her hair looks dark drab muddy due to the condition it will not last very long and could gentle be removed, they could then either re pigment and go warmer or they could go lighter but with many natural shades.

Alex explains that the first thing they will do is a mild cocktail made from shampoo.Bleach decolouriser. conditioner.and low volume peroxide.This will remove all the muddy pigment and give them a stripped canvas to work from. Kate says sounds like I’m in for a long visit . Alex say well once we see what we can lift out we can see what the best course of action will be for our future colour. Alex say’s don’t worry Kate we can fix this. Your lucky that your  natural skin tone and eye colour leave the door open for colour options. Really says kate never thought of that!

Off to the back wash for the cocktail.

Note whilst Alex is mixing I will insert some information  on a cocktail formulation.

A bleach bath or cocktail formulation:

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

This in itself i class as a colour correction tool, as mild as it is you must stay with it know wondering off for a smoke, a chat a coffee.This is serious stuff!

Alex works the formulation into kate’s hair once whilst applying it warns her it’s a bit cold and bit smelly! you could say that say Kate. Alex gets a wide comb and continually combes the formula  into and through her hair gradually the mixture starts to work it’s lifting. All that mud is going down the drain. After about 20minutes he is happy done he says no we can get going. he rinses a very light shampoo to remove any traces of the formula  cool water .Now he says sitting kate back down we will lightly dry it and decide on course of action.

To the colour and formulation: Thus far i very impressed with the skill Alex is showing and professional approach. We have now removed all that muddy un-wanted pigment Alex has a better idea of what is possible so he has a better vision to share with Kate. How serious is she about change? Alex says to Kate as you can see we have removed all that muddy colour. Kate says yes i back where i started but ££ pounds lighter. Right says Alex lets establish two things colour and style. Right he says with some authority I see it fair bit shorter but with texture and movement.

Colour wise lets work with the blonde, but re introduce shades that work with you, let beige this out with caramels, toffee, cool blondes and burnt honey golds. WOW ! Says Kate you can do that, Yes we can it will look great how does it sound to you amazing. Ok say’s Alex given how over processed your hair is all we have to do is deposit different shades and buildup the pigment long term work on the colour retention.I can recommend some products to help both with moisiture in your hair and colour retention qualities if you like great says Kate.

Lets get going. You ready says Alex!  First thing i’m going to do is cut a fair bit of hair off we don’t need to colour all this waste time money and product .Out comes the razor and things start to take shape. Once the bulk of the weight has been removed and shape formed. Alex, say’s to Kate feel good yes say’s Kate. Right now lets sort out this colour bear with me whilst i mix up some Formulations.

Whilst Alex is Mixing I will share with you the Different formulations:

Demi Deposit Only: Tone on tone or darker lift or higher levels of Hydrogen peroxide are not required! Remember we are going for deposit Only this over processed hair does not need any more peroxide and lift.

First Colour level 6 BR[Beige Red] remember first letter dictates stronger shade. In this choice Alex is choosing a rich beige shade but also re introducing some warm pigment back in to the hair,a wise choice. 1oz[30 grams] 6RB 2oz [60grams]  demi lotion developer. Second choice 7 GB [gold beige] again more re introduction of pigment quantity as above 1 part colour to 2 parts Demi lotion. Final choice 6B just beige will have a stronger depth than other choices.formulation as above. These are all none progressive colour formulations no need to worryabout over deposit.

Back with Alex. He explains to Kate we are going to re introduce three different shades into your hair and at the same time replace some of the warmer pigments this will give depth and tone.At the same time we will leave out some chunks of the existing blonde we will tone this later to create a nicely controlled Beige blonde that will compliment the look and style. sounds great says Kate.Oh Alex says we are also going to use the same shade sin panels in the under part of your hair to create some depth and dimension. lets get going with all these colours.

Alex works quickly with great skill we weaves out different section choosing where to place the shades and panels. Once finished he takes section from the base hair line applying the different shades in solid blocks. working from the hair line nape up to just below the occipital bone jaw line just above the ears. thus creating solid block area of three shades. leaving out the lighter chunks of pre lifted hair in the top section.

Finally all applied leaves it to process around 20 minutes no heat required!! [Heat is not good for colour, it’s not needed colouring is a process of fromulation and timing] all that is required is the correct choice of products and patients!

After 20 minutes Alex takes kate to the back wash rinse of all colour .Then decides to apply a Beige toner to control the Blonde that was left out and tie the beige theme into together. As he works the Toner into Kate’s  hair he stays with it as it starts to work on the yellow blonde  sections creating a really nice cool natural beige. Done re rinsed shampooed  conditioned ready for a little more razor work and a blow dry.

Well what a great job Alex managed to save the day and Kate looks amazing i hope you agree that this was a job well done. As for Kate well happy does not even cover the emotion she felt and how pleased she was.

Service,Consultation,skill.knowledge. without these this would not have been possible so how can we help you? what can we do for you? she left armed with the right products to maintain both new colour and condition. Committed to never making the same costly mistake again with either Home Hair dye or an un skilled stylist.

Mike B2MR [names of stylist and client have been changed]

 

Tags: , , , , , , ,

A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

Tags: , , , , , , , ,

Hair structure.The science the chemistry.


 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                         Understanding hair structure:

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much to understanding. How the hair structure works. What role it plays is key to  successful colouring. In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.or any chemical process we apply.We also have to keep up with the changing chemistry of the products we use.We have to understand how they react on the hair. What is the chemistry in that tube of colour pigment or that relaxer.Is it safe can i trust it! Blind faith or trusting the sales rep is not enough!

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.

Imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle.

Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability.The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength.When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex. To do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. in it’s natural state healthy hair has a ph of around 5.5. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

More recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? You decide! They all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline. Personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ).4% up to2%.

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon based chemistry.Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH  of around 5.5.

The same applies when relaxing hair much talk and discussion about Keratin based products. Along with the relaxers comes the issues of chemistry disclosed and reactions caused. major discussions on Formaldehyde gas or vapours  being produced and now the new safer term Aldehydes watch out for both.

see past topic: http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/02/29/what-is-an-aldehyde-you-need-to-know/

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. When the hair is wet it is quite fragile as we dry the hair the keratin starts to harden and becomes stronger. We also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services. Keratin as i have said is another well marketed product. Found naturally in the hair. By definition when added to products it must be good healthy natural! Most hair products that have Keratin in them may well be source or derived from. Animal. Vegetable or mineral. All being natural organic. Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use they can make the hair slightly brittle Keratinisation. Given the cost restrictions and the hydrolisation process for human hair keratin extraction most companies opt for the cheaper sources Although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500}   The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair}

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

picture above: healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

Mike B2MR:


 

Tags: , , , , , ,

A complimentary hair colour for you


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments

Getting the shade that compliments your skin tone, eye colour the one that  makes you feel good and look good !. Makes you look and feel special. Finding that perfect match takes skill it takes a trained eye a trained professional. As stylist we have a service to perform when it comes to consultation. That role is to give the client the best advise we can.Create that look chose and recommend and advise the best colour or colours the right shade and tones that will work and are flattering for our clients. The real  skill is listening to what the client  want’s but also advising on what really works. Honesty and caring.

That colour. That look with the wow factor! Those colours shades and tones  that make the eyes pop! The face come alive!   

Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown, Grey blue or dark blue, hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks.

skin tone: very dark brown, true olive (most Asians and Latinos) medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks, medium with golden undertones, pale with no color in cheeks,pale with pink undertones,brown or bronze when you tan.

Natural hair colour: blue black,deepest coffee brown,medium ash brown,medium golden brown dishwater blonde,salt and pepper, white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown, green, green blue or turquoise, hazel with gold or brown flecks.

skin tone: brown with pink undertone, brown with golden undertone, pale with peach or gold undertones, freckled.

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red, strawberry blonde,Grey with a yellow cast,natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden  blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair.

Is change possible one that can still look great yes of course! the two warm shots are the same person different colour and different looks but both work with all the points we have addressed here.

See a previous blog. On natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

What ever your colouring:

The key here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you! Says. This is me. Individual stunning stylish!

All possible with patients, faith and a willingness for change!! Hairdressers we play a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special. We have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. To work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style. To be innovative creative passionate about what we do.

MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 
 
%d bloggers like this: