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Category Archives: hair colouring lift deposit

Hair colour or dye the consultation


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

The Consultation your time to shine:

I’ve been a fully trained stylist involved in our industry for well over 30 years have been fortunate enough to have experienced many aspects of the hairdressing Industry. In my many years of working with clients, I like to think that nothing shocks or surprises me many clients have shared every issue that may arise and come to us at our chair and station chair.

I’ve seen young women come in with orange roots and white ends. I’ve seen red roots and black ends.  I’ve seen hair looking like a traffic light from violet to blue, colors that usually are reserved for flowers.When I see these mistakes colour failures in some case hair nightmares one cannot help but feel oh so sorry for the client to which these hair are attached.

Normally when the color mistakes are so apparent the truth is impossible to ignore the poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic that one  really wants to help and fix this problem if at all possible. The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation. Then there are the liars. I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie. As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service.

Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

 A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change; let’s say going lighter.  We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.  whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage, If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair.  It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month.  If there is a any sort of line of demarcation, we know there was something “done” to the hair,  and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason.  When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything.  To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue.  In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. stale mate helps no one!

Here’s some information everyone needs to know.

Anything from a box color to a highlighting shampoo that causes any visible difference in your hair color has permanently altered the hair structure. Sun-In or anything like that, especially highlighting shampoos and conditioners have any variety of alkaline chemicals that diffuse your natural pigment. Beware of these products since they may contain sodium hydroxide which is relaxer. Any color from a box that is made from 2 or more components that are mixed together have some sort of peroxide component. Peroxide oxidizes your natural pigment, so if there is any alkaline in the formula, you will get lift. Many box colors say that they last 24 shampoos simply put if your color is changed by a box and if you grow out roots, it is not temporary the hair structure has been permanently affected. When hair is colored or receives any chemical service it is permanently affected till it is is cut off.

You may have correction to re colour blonde hair with brown pigment, it may be a perfect colour match  but the hair still has any inherent damage caused by the initial service in this case going blonde. As a client try and be as open as possible the more history the better  their is no advantage in trying to hide any chemical service that you have introduced into their hair.   there is no reason to hide any details no  matter what the box says informed decisions are easier to make with all the information at  hand and every thing must be taken into consideration.  When we ask you questions about what has happened to your hair for the past year or so, we need to know everything so we can make the right decisions for your services.

Next time you come in to get any chemical service done be completely honest with your colorist or  as a stylist you are doing a consultation make sure you ask all the right question.We can read the history of your hair and there is no need for deception.  After all, we have your best interests in mind.  As it’s said ‘The truth will set you free’. A lie may break your hair!

Our goal a professional stylist is to work with clients to deal with the issue at hand offering the best service possible supported with education knowledge and an honest understanding of what is possible given any situation and history. Always retaining the right to say ‘No’

Mike B2MR

some extra facts:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth. Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol. Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation. Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage. A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s  sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

There there is always the herbal organic products that you might want to consider.

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/01/30/natural-herbal-organic-hair-colour/


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Blonde hair colour and hair Dye


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

                 Spring perfect time to think Blonde

Wake up and smell the roses Its Spring. You can you have a natural looking Blonde hair colour Is it maintainable ? Will it damage the condition? Will it look to orange or yellow? All very good questions.

Before considering going blonder or lighter. Have a professional consultation be very careful when considering home Dye especially if you have previous colour on your hair. anything is possible with the right advise and skilled professional working with you. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan. If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you or at least some light tones to brighten you up. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible. Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. Toning down for the fall or autumn! It just takes some forward planning and some patients moving around with shade and tone to create new looks without damage is quite possible.

Mike B2MR

 

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Perfect Blonde Hair colour for spring


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

How do you get a perfect balanced natural look blonde hair cloud that does not look dyed?

How does one attain a perfect level of lift to reach a natural looking blonde hair colour level. As discussed many time before in previous articles one has to consider lift deposit and the natural level of the hair to start with. I am writing this as a response to a search on the topic. The raised question was. To get from natural level 7 to 9? This would be a perfect level to reach and target colour attainable. Remember understanding colour how it works. How to neutralise or utilise those pigments you will expose in the lifting process requires that you consult and trust the colour wheel.

When lifting from a natural level 7 the pigment exposed with be as follows.

*7 expect Orange undertone:

*8 expect Orange/Yellow undertone:

*9 desired 9 expect Yellow:

My suggestion would be to use a high lift Blonde to reach this level of lift. It is possible to get the right level of lift without bleach!

High lift Blonde will give up to 4 levels of lift so 7 to 9 is perfect to expect target colour and shade.

I would suggest using either High lift 100A [ash] or 100V[violet] both of these will control pigment exposed.

For an ultimate Blonde here is a formulation that frankly rocks.

10 grams 100A, 10 grams 100V,  10 grams100B. 10 grams 100[clear] + 80 grams of 40 volume peroxide.  Remember 30 grams is = to 1 0z

You can change the mixing ratio as the above is a lot of product for short hair.

Mixing the different shades will give you more pigment to control the the pigment exposed whilst lifting.the 100 in most colour line sis a clear and gives you a little extra lift. Remember with most High lift products the amount of developer is increased  to a mixing ratio of i part colour to 2 parts developer [always follow direction of given product] development time is key here 50 minutes.this being  30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit.

Either of the suggested formulations will work giving a really nice level9 Blonde but always consider.

*1 previously coloured hair will respond differently.

*2 you cannot lift colour with colour. So if previously coloured High lift formulation will not lift out old colour.

*3 If in doubt and thinking of home colour or dye have a professional consultation follow directions. be safe.

I hope this is useful to all those want to be blondes out there! Mike B2MR

 

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Violet base hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about . Violet hair dye and or Hair colour keep coming up!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic! It’s required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde. It’s Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When thinking about violet as a colour or tone. We need to this question are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool reds. Those oh so cool shades and tones we see much of these days.Those blue reds, red mauves. Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair dye and colouring process? Violet as a shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But in many cases it’s a behind the scene role in the colour process. Key to successfully getting the shade you require is using an choosing the correct toner.

           High lift Blonde series: in some colour lines is also a toner

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series violet shades and tones will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart. This cant indicates the Violet and indeed blue violet based colours and toners are required when addressing pale yellow through to shades of yellow orange.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required. To balance out the pigment exposed in the lifting process,lifting to yellow or pale yellow is an ideal base to then tone to get a natural cool blonde.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it  This lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow / Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8 It’s all about balance. Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone ! See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment for the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this. Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose. Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above. In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process. Some bleaches even have!!

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!  Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions. Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR
 

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Red Copper hair dye and colours maintaining them.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                        Hot Reds, fiery Copper, cool Red!

Be it home hair dye.professional colour good reds and copper hair colours are possible work with a stylist who understands colour the issues hair chart and will work with you on your hair dye issues.

For so many the thought of going Red is very scary.Reds be they hot or cool can really change your appearance your skin tone the right choice can make your eyes Pop, look like swimming pools. Because our hair has so much red pigment that changes into orange as we lift it getting that perfect shade is a chemical decision it is that process of lift and deposit it is that balance of shade depth tone. The more vibrant the colour wanted the more of the hairs natural pigment we bring out to play, we achieve this with the correct choice of peroxide the lifting agent that exposes the pigment we want to use. But even this is a balance to much lift will remove the red and orange, so depending on the vibrancy required we choose the strength of peroxide to expose the pigment we want. unless we are going tone on tone as the swatch is to the right the no lift is required just deposit.

Lets Introduce Dawn our client and Russell her stylist.

Dawn loves to play around with levels of and tones of red and coppers. I many cases this does not always turn out with good results it can sometimes fade quite quickly. Dawn again in their consultation explains to Russell that she has enjoyed being a lighter more copper shade over the summer but wants to know if she can go darker over the winter months. she also want a change of style.

Russell explains that this is possible and that it will not restrict going lighter in the future. He goes on to explain that although the roots would need a permanent colour formulation the rest can be done with a Demi permanent colour formulation. This allows for better colour retention and will allow for a switch back to a lighter or more vibrant colour in the future.

During the consultation with Russell. Dawn mentions that the Grey seems to be getting progressively worse. Russell explains that when natural red or copper hair starts to go Grey or lose it’s pigment it tends to look more salt and pepper this can make it look dull. However the up side is that although not as vibrant in it’s appearance it still has a great deal of gold pigment so receives colour more readily and is still quite easy to get target colour. Dawn has about 25% Grey hair per 2 inch section. This would require that 25% of the root formulation be on the N series at the desired level. Finally Dawn also say’s that although she wants to go darker and more solid it must still work with her skin tone and eye colour. Russell say’s that he totally agrees and that so long as we keep the colour warm and don’t go to dark it will not be problem.

As a note once you go darker than a level 5 you are getting more into brown shades due to the amount of blue pigment found in the colour. Russell brings over a few chosen swatches from the shade chart holding then against her face showing Dawn how the colours work with her skin tone and eye colour. They agree on a level 5 shade with a red almost brunette tone. Dawn say’s she is ready for a change and says thank you for all the explanations.

Down to the colour choice.

Although the target is a level five to use a level 5 formulation would be to dark. Given the percentage of Grey of 25% 5N will provide the pigment for the Grey issue and give the colour depth. The rest of the roots formulation 6RB {red beige} 75% , plus 20 volume peroxide

Mixing ratio 1 part colour to 11/2  times peroxide or mixing 7.5 grams 5N+ 22.5 grams 6RB or 1oz. to 45 grams 20 volume peroxide or1 1/2 oz [30 grams =1 oz]

A little technical i hope not!

The reason behind this would be the 5N provide the pigment and controls the warmth exposed by the peroxide [no hot roots] the 6RB gives depth and tone. To colour balance once the root application has been applied the colour application mid lengths to ends,  just 6RB with a Demi formulation deposit only left on for 20 minutes. After full processing time again off to the back wash fro shampoo and conditioning

.

Remember this was a colour request to address both Grey issues and take the colour darker with an even colour healthy colour, no hot roots or line of demarcation.

Russell sits with Dawn and explains that to colour her roots is a fine balance of using the N series to colour the Grey. But not wanting it to be drab or dulled down warmth has to be kept. One of the dangers Russell explains this is something known as Hot roots! we see them all the time. Sadly done by professionals as well as the at home when using home hair dye applications. It’s caused by to much lift at the roots this brings out to much natural red/orange pigment and lifts the roots to much creating a very bright line. Known as hot roots. In reality it’s a formulation lacking blue pigment.

Above first shots a before shot showing hot root issue dark ends. Below new colour showing rich dark vibrant even colour with textured razor cut.

Remember the Red Molecule is the largest of all colour molecules so hardest to get into the hair, but will also have a tendency fade quicker.Careful regular maintenance is essential.use of good shampoo and condition at home is also highly recommended. stylist should recommend home hair care retail advise. Finally a happy smiling clients says it all. job well done

Some tips on hot and cool reds,vibrant coppers:

Is it seasonable reds do go in and out of favor but also the type of shade changes with the seasons. Cool reds or blue reds tend to work better in the autumn and winter months the hot vibrant shades coppers and bright reds are more summer colours. When we think of reds their are so many shades to choose from warm even hot reds true reds! Copper shades all the way through to cool blue Mauve reds.

Reds are the Shade that can be the hardest to get to last keep that rich true colour

choosing the correct shade the right volume of Peroxide are all so key to good results using the natural pigment in the clients Hair. All food for thought? but we also need to consider the formulation for root application the formulation to colour balance. Hot or bright roots seems to be a huge problem then we also have to consider a formulation for Grey coverage.With these examples of Red I have tried to show that it is possible to change shade in this case red without damaging or causing stress on the hair. As you can see the different shades chosen are all in the same family red, red copper, red brown they all work with skin and eye colour of the model.

The Key to switching colour and shade is to do it in stages working up and down the shades slowly going from lighter to darker is easy tone on  tone, to go Darker to lighter the key is to A colour client will stay with you as long as your doing a great job so take your time explain  what’s possible both short term and long ! have fun. use the pigment you are lifting don’t try for to many levels at once, remember it’s an ever changing journey not a race.

Using this  method you can constantly suggest new change with compromise. But consider the environment you are working in the history of of previous colour application. Consider and plan colour goals for coming months so change is possible with out over processing and or a poor job! Discuss with your client a long term plan and vision that allows for change and creativity.

All shots below and above the same model so change is possible so is long term client retention and relationships!

 

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Hair colour make over colour correction


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Our tool box of knowledge is full: We also have to have an understanding of hair colour.Different types of hair dye and trust the colour chart.

Lets consider what is a make over and what would be classed as mild correction.

Before I introduce client and stylist, lets share a little history. This young lady is in her teenage years. Like most teenagers experimented  home colour and going Blonde. One day she decided that she would go to a professional stylist and have it taken from being to blonde back to her own colour a basic colour dye job! or so she thought.

The picture to the below is after the salon had to attempts at correcting it back to her own colour. The result being hair with a green Hue know by us professionals as Mud. Why Mud? well when re pigmentation of the hair is required it is essential to re build the hairs natural pigment mantle using the correct shade of dye consulting the colour chart helps. If you don’t do this and apply the incorrect shades and tones the pigments can clash with each other or neutralise each other out causing a muddy colour. Once this has happened it’s really hard to  re balance it.

What happened in this case was an under qualified hairdresser took the job on she applied her natural level as a tint or permanent colour using 6N with 20 volume peroxide with out any thought to pigment missing the effect of adding yet more lift to the hair. no consideration to poor condition, past history and finally the under tone pigment in that level 6N.

A totally mess when it went wrong she then tried toning it with various other shades to kill the green hue hence the mud shade created. she even had the audacity to charge for this total mess. the young girl knew no better than to pay. having been lead to trust this was the best the colour could be!

How do you fix this? Could you?

Well let me introduce to you Kate our client and Alex out stylist:

This really is a challenge. To have the full history of the above hair colour disaster maybe find out what hair dye was used, Alex has to do his consultation with Kate. The key here is for Alex to get as much information a she can about past history and also get a clear idea as to expectation. At this point he has to honestly tell Kate what is possible.This cannot be ego driven it has to be within his own skill and ability. Trust me when i say it takes a bigger person to say sorry this is beyond me than to muddle on. Remember we have already had one professional screw up. As soon as Alex agrees to take this on he assume all responsibility for it. [ strand test, optional client wavier release form, fully advised of process]. Having chatted with Kate two things are established she knows her hair is very over processed and damaged she wants to look and feel better she is open to change both of colour and cut.

Alex goes on to explain  that although the really bad colour in her hair looks dark drab muddy due to the condition it will not last very long and could gentle be removed, they could then either re pigment and go warmer or they could go lighter but with many natural shades.

Alex explains that the first thing they will do is a mild cocktail made from shampoo.Bleach decolouriser. conditioner.and low volume peroxide.This will remove all the muddy pigment and give them a stripped canvas to work from. Kate says sounds like I’m in for a long visit . Alex say well once we see what we can lift out we can see what the best course of action will be for our future colour. Alex say’s don’t worry Kate we can fix this. Your lucky that your  natural skin tone and eye colour leave the door open for colour options. Really says kate never thought of that!

Off to the back wash for the cocktail.

Note whilst Alex is mixing I will insert some information  on a cocktail formulation.

A bleach bath or cocktail formulation:

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching}

If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

This in itself i class as a colour correction tool, as mild as it is you must stay with it know wondering off for a smoke, a chat a coffee.This is serious stuff!

Alex works the formulation into kate’s hair once whilst applying it warns her it’s a bit cold and bit smelly! you could say that say Kate. Alex gets a wide comb and continually combes the formula  into and through her hair gradually the mixture starts to work it’s lifting. All that mud is going down the drain. After about 20minutes he is happy done he says no we can get going. he rinses a very light shampoo to remove any traces of the formula  cool water .Now he says sitting kate back down we will lightly dry it and decide on course of action.

To the colour and formulation: Thus far i very impressed with the skill Alex is showing and professional approach. We have now removed all that muddy un-wanted pigment Alex has a better idea of what is possible so he has a better vision to share with Kate. How serious is she about change? Alex says to Kate as you can see we have removed all that muddy colour. Kate says yes i back where i started but ££ pounds lighter. Right says Alex lets establish two things colour and style. Right he says with some authority I see it fair bit shorter but with texture and movement.

Colour wise lets work with the blonde, but re introduce shades that work with you, let beige this out with caramels, toffee, cool blondes and burnt honey golds. WOW ! Says Kate you can do that, Yes we can it will look great how does it sound to you amazing. Ok say’s Alex given how over processed your hair is all we have to do is deposit different shades and buildup the pigment long term work on the colour retention.I can recommend some products to help both with moisiture in your hair and colour retention qualities if you like great says Kate.

Lets get going. You ready says Alex!  First thing i’m going to do is cut a fair bit of hair off we don’t need to colour all this waste time money and product .Out comes the razor and things start to take shape. Once the bulk of the weight has been removed and shape formed. Alex, say’s to Kate feel good yes say’s Kate. Right now lets sort out this colour bear with me whilst i mix up some Formulations.

Whilst Alex is Mixing I will share with you the Different formulations:

Demi Deposit Only: Tone on tone or darker lift or higher levels of Hydrogen peroxide are not required! Remember we are going for deposit Only this over processed hair does not need any more peroxide and lift.

First Colour level 6 BR[Beige Red] remember first letter dictates stronger shade. In this choice Alex is choosing a rich beige shade but also re introducing some warm pigment back in to the hair,a wise choice. 1oz[30 grams] 6RB 2oz [60grams]  demi lotion developer. Second choice 7 GB [gold beige] again more re introduction of pigment quantity as above 1 part colour to 2 parts Demi lotion. Final choice 6B just beige will have a stronger depth than other choices.formulation as above. These are all none progressive colour formulations no need to worryabout over deposit.

Back with Alex. He explains to Kate we are going to re introduce three different shades into your hair and at the same time replace some of the warmer pigments this will give depth and tone.At the same time we will leave out some chunks of the existing blonde we will tone this later to create a nicely controlled Beige blonde that will compliment the look and style. sounds great says Kate.Oh Alex says we are also going to use the same shade sin panels in the under part of your hair to create some depth and dimension. lets get going with all these colours.

Alex works quickly with great skill we weaves out different section choosing where to place the shades and panels. Once finished he takes section from the base hair line applying the different shades in solid blocks. working from the hair line nape up to just below the occipital bone jaw line just above the ears. thus creating solid block area of three shades. leaving out the lighter chunks of pre lifted hair in the top section.

Finally all applied leaves it to process around 20 minutes no heat required!! [Heat is not good for colour, it’s not needed colouring is a process of fromulation and timing] all that is required is the correct choice of products and patients!

After 20 minutes Alex takes kate to the back wash rinse of all colour .Then decides to apply a Beige toner to control the Blonde that was left out and tie the beige theme into together. As he works the Toner into Kate’s  hair he stays with it as it starts to work on the yellow blonde  sections creating a really nice cool natural beige. Done re rinsed shampooed  conditioned ready for a little more razor work and a blow dry.

Well what a great job Alex managed to save the day and Kate looks amazing i hope you agree that this was a job well done. As for Kate well happy does not even cover the emotion she felt and how pleased she was.

Service,Consultation,skill.knowledge. without these this would not have been possible so how can we help you? what can we do for you? she left armed with the right products to maintain both new colour and condition. Committed to never making the same costly mistake again with either Home Hair dye or an un skilled stylist.

Mike B2MR [names of stylist and client have been changed]

 

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