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Category Archives: Hair cutting technique

Hair cuts techniques styles


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I’m often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering. Simple it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don’t know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It’s really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

                      ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

                                       well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

                   Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 


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Home based successful hair salon business


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I think that it might be time to share a journey taken by myself into building and establishing a home based hairdressing business. Without any advertising fully booked successful in one year lets call it 0 to 50 that was the turn over year one.

My Journey:

At the time I was working as an educator and platform artist for a large North American hair product and hair colour company.Whilst really enjoying the shows.The travel.The events it had it’s down time and just doing salon hair colour education update was not challenging enough. I decided to set up a salon at home to fill in the down time and keep doing hair.This would be a small one man business built using my skills creativity and knowledge. My mandate would be to offer the highest standard of. Hair colouring. Colour correction, and razor cutting.

I would be using the skills and knowledge that educations had provided me with. My goal and vision was  to build up a strong clientele a loyal following. Built up on recommendation word of mouth. No advertising very defined boundaries and work ethics and working hours. I will cover boundaries, working hours and indeed charges as we move on.

Have a business model a Vision:

This business model was not conceived on a whim it was built on experience gained over many years in the Hairdressing industry. Ask your selves this question. Why do we spend so much, time, money and energy looking for. New clients.Promoting the salon generally searching for that quick fix of success. Those big fully booked pay out days? When all the success we could ever want is right at our fingers tips.

What is this secret there is not one common sense!

Here are some easy tips that work and we will re visit and cover in some depth.

*High Standard of service.

*Honest consultation.

*Friendly but professional attitude.

*Skilled and knowledgeable.

*Affordable pricing.

*Regular hours.

*No waiting.

*Trust and defined Boundaries-house /salon rules.

*Very personal one on one service. keeping up to date client records history formulations.

*Product knowledge

See not a huge list:

The keys to being very successful with a business that builds and maintains it self. keep it simple so lets go thorough the list in some depth.

To start this business i had to draw on my past experience with hair salons. Having managed a hair salon in Central London experienced ownership i had a good idea about business set up.

Experience of working with salons in Ontario, Vancouver and on Vancouver Island also helped me set up this small business. Contacts and relationships made with sales representatives also helps. Yes reps can be your friend.

When staring a business: It is very important to get some advise from certain bodies.

*Bank business account

*Accountant

* Distributor

* check into Licenses, registration that me be required.

* keep clear records,invoices and receipts.

High standards of service:

What does this mean to me. It’s being attentive. It’s being welcoming. Its the atmosphere.The scene you set and create. This was me projecting me. Who I am. How I work. I would think of my salon as my space, as my play room, my sand box.

Service:

This is being. Attentive. Caring. Willingness to listen. To be honest. Ask the right question. Make your client feel at easy comfortable. This is so important it sets the scene for open and honest discussion that all important consultation.

I would also take this time whilst getting them settled to explain how I work and why. Give a brief history of my self and career my belief and mandate.

Time to shine:

This is a good time to show how knowledgeable you are and also show a little authority on the subject matter. That being hair and colouring. Of course answer any general questions that may arise. It is also a good time and way to assess the client. To get a feel for who they are. What their expectation might be and so how demanding they may be. We will touch more on this.

This moves nicely on to Honest Consultation.

This is such an important time to have the art of conversation and use and asses so much. The key is to be frank and honest about  the clients goals expectation. It is this time that you get to ask questions get a history of past services.

It is your time to assess the condition the look. You start to get an idea of what might or might not be possible. Remember the art of the consultation is to get your client to open up not just about past hair colour and style. But  you can also lead the conversation asking the questions to get the client to open up. Instead of. What do you want? How do you feel about? What would you like to see? In a perfect world. How do you see you style and colour? Remember. Honesty on your part as the stylist is the key.

Normally when the colour mistakes are apparent the truth is impossible to ignore. The poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic.  So much so, that one really wants to help and fix this problem if at all  possible.This would in some cases be correction.

Client honesty:

The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation.

Then there are the liars. or mistruth tellers!

I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie.  As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service. This is not possible when a client make a choices not to give all the information or answer question honestly.

 Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change. let’s say going lighter. We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.

whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage. If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair. It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month. If there is a any sort of line of demarcation. We know there was something “done” to the hair and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason. When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything. To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue. In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. Stale mate helps no one!

The main thing not to forget is why the client is sitting in front of you.What can you do for her! The client, service, consultation, listening, honesty, humility, staff training and continued Education updates for all staff.

In some cases after a consultation it is ok to suggest that giving the hair a break from chemical service is the only way forward. If they will not commit to this. Then take my advise stop!

If a clients has hair that is really badly done. Over processed damaged beyond help. Unless they want to listen to you take your advise. If you don’t feel that you can improve on this. If it will not be an advert for you.Then why would you get involved it’s ok to say No!

If it’s is not going to be a good advert for you. Not going to be representative of your talent and ability. Why get involved?

Consider this:

Badly done over processed hair. As soon as you agree to fix it you are taking responsibility for all that has been done in the past! Consider is it worth it! If you decide to take this on them make them sign a client waive release form.

As a stylist consider are you fixing this. Because you can or do you have something to prove is this. I can do! Or EGO driven. For me having boundaries being professional is being able to say No it’s Ok it’s honest it’s real it’s professional!

Friendly welcoming but professional:

Is this possible you may ask your self? Yes it is, it’s the key to success. For it makes your client feel special wanted important. Now you don’t have to be all gushy nor false. It’s more about keeping a conversation real and about them.

That being said sharing some of your own life is also ok. Just not that. Did you have a nice week end are you going on Holiday stuff!!!

It’s all about the three things to remember about your clients. People. Places. Things. listen to what they tell you take it in remember key things work life family it show you care and do listen.

Keeping it professional:

That is giving sound advise not bowing to silly demands those boundaries established are still key.

For example when they re approach the subject of cutting their husbands hair by stroking your ego saying how good you are. Thank them remind them that you don’t do guys hair. but say nice try though! I would always say i don’t enjoy male company however nice they are!

Remember key points:

keep good records when was last visit. last hair style the look, ultimate goal. If in doubt keep notes review before they arrive.

Its ok still shows you care. You are building trust. The three R rule works very well when building these trusting relationships.

                            “Reputation.Recommendation.Retention”



Mike B2MR

 

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Season greeting: Merry Christmas:


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                       Happy Christmas   

                                            thank you

Economically a challenging year for many It’s from times like this we can grow learn challenge our selves with creative thinking.

I would like to thank everyone who as read any topic’s all those who have shared and contributed to either blogs or the groups shared discussions net worked.

A very big thanks to all those committed professionals that i have met in the cyber world talked with exchanged views with you have helped me grow and learn.

You have encouraged and showed me that what i do is all worth while so many thanks. A special  thanks to Karen and David all members of salon groove and all those over 400 in our ever growing international Linked in professional hairdresser net working group. All at HABIA for you do a great job.

Finally all those who follow on twitter face book and that have connected via linked in the world gets smaller as we get bigger. to all those who have commented o Photo’s re blogged and posted http://back2myroots.tumblr.com/ as we have shared photos of places and events Thank you.

Lots to look forward to in the new year some new challenges a new source for topic’s and sharing.

Have very wonderful Christmas with family and friends be safe be i will be back in the new year 2012. with new articles and topic’s.

 Season greetings happy new year 2012! Mike B2MR

 Happy Christmas

                2011

Look forward to sharing

                2012

 

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Cutting and electric clippers.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: regular postings of fresh new topic’s

When we think about the electric clipper what comes to mind? man’s hair cut tidy up the neck line ?

We have to think beyond that another tool in our box ! another skill in our skills box!

When we think Electric clippers most of us think head shave to some degree and numbered guards. Who make the best clippers.well many different brands but Wahl and Oyster make the  best without a doubt.  I have to say i do like the clippers that are air cooled.

The shot below with the huge Blonde main was cut on stage just using clippers. In-fact the Oyster ones above. Having taken the model on stage with one length hair that was added as extensions prior to going on stage so anything is possible just open your mind.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

We don’t have to think head shaving although that can have artistic merit’s one can use clipper’s to do freestyle hair cutting anything from a blunt Bob to scissor over comb work. Yes if you. Understand  weight distribution, form and shape anything is possible. You just need to be creative and challenge your self. Put those scissors down and experiment.

Once we understand angles and weight distribution and so creating shape then the tool we use to do this open up so many possibilities. I truly think that more stylist should use clippers razor’s become professional and skilled using all tools available to us. Part of this is understanding weight as stated . I hope the above diagrams will help.

when we think about cutting with a razor they take over from the scissors or traditional razor is the effect the finished result that different to look at no but the challenge is and was achieving that with out traditional tools so a new skill another fear faced very worth it for both your and your client!maybe not for very curly hair but your in charge!

Explore using electric Clipper’s have some fun start off with willing models but push and challenge your self. Become an comfortable and skilled with all your tool’s.

Again invest in a good set of clippers and if you need them guards. I don’t get paid in any way to provide this material  hence providing both links! Mike B2MR

http://www.wahlglobal.com/united-kingdom/wahl/professional-hairdressing.html

http://www.osterpro.com/Category.aspx?id=groomer

 

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Stylist specialist or hairdresser?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Specialisation:

Lets assume you have finished your training and are now fully qualified depending on where in the world you live some form of testing examination will have taken place to prove a level of skill and qualification. whats next?

Here in the Uk that would be either having done an apprenticeship with day release to college. Or may be you went to College then worked in a salon to gain work experience. finally maybe you paid and went to private academy.

What ever your chosen career path you should in the Uk walk away with a NVQ qualification level, 2 or 3.  This basically means you have reached a standard of ability to satisfy the examination board. You have the skills but do you have the salon experience? If not then get some hours under your belt Salon day to day experience is essential to your future success in the hair industry. 

Here is the reality. Your hairdressing career is now about to start put everything you have learned to one side and open your mind to the real world of commercial hairdressing if you want to make a living and be successful. Be prepared to offer assistance in the salon to any one and every one watch listen learn. Become a team member make your self invaluable to the salon and your work mates.

Ask questions a!

Recent quotes comes to mind.

That it’s not for everyone….If you have the talent, don’t give it up because there is no other job out there remotely close to this industry. Stay on top of Education! there is always fresh new people coming into the industry to keep up with 🙂 be dependable, listen well and never be afraid to ask questions. If you put your ALL into your work and keep patience and persistence, it will pay off in the long run. Never sell yourself short, there is too much opportunity out there :)) thanks Elizabeth.

2nd Quote: 

I would say don’t be afraid to make mistakes – make as many as possible while your are training , Ask ,ask and ask again all the dumb question you think you have and watch -shadow a senior- question why on everything . Put yourself out there confidence comes from doing and dont beat yourself up too much, enjoy and have fun with it .
this is all such good stuff might have to do a blog using all these comments to inspire trainee’s . Thanks Jacqueline Norman

Use this time to hone your people skills. your communication skills, Consultation skills, the art of service. applying your talent to the clients your will be working with and serving them.

Over time as a junior stylist you will start to do clients and hopefully build up a following a loyal clientele one that request your services and recommends you to others.

This is how you establish your self in the salon it’s up to you. No one else is responsible for your success. Non  one else is responsible if you fail! The hairdressing world is very competitive so be prepared for some knocks some good days some stressful days.

Once established what next? Think about your clientele the type of people they attract. Maybe you get a lot of recommendation because you are good with curly hair [maybe you have curly hair so you understand it] maybe you are getting recommendation for your colouring or highlighting skills.

Every one has one aspect that they excel at, either because you really enjoy it or just get it.What ever that thing is capitalise on it. specialise be the one that people ask for because you are knowledgeable and passionate about it ,The skill you have the service you offer!

Recently whilst having Lunch with my dear friend a very talented man MR Jon Paul Holt owner of the Avantgarde artistic center Vancouver Canada. He was her in the Uk for a short visit he is very well know in North America a huge talent check out his web site see his work.

                                      http://www.avantgardehair.com/


Whilst having lunch taking about past shows we had done together member’s of staff what they are now doing.We got onto to the topic of specialisation and the key to building and staying busy. That is finding that thing that defines you. Even if your an all rounder one thing will stand out.

For me although most of what i write a great deal of my knowledge is on hair colouring both application and technical knowledge.This is what i like to educate and share with others, if I am  really honest my skill and passion is free style razor cutting. understanding how to create shape and form without cutting straight lines allowing hair to move and fall the way it grows and flows.

Once you have polished up those skill started building up your client base.Take time to think about the clientele your are building the clients your are attracting you will find a common skill that binds these clients to you.What is that skill what is it that you do that attracts your clients. work it out and use it capitalise on it.

Decide that you are going to Specialise in this  chosen skill and service within your salon. Maybe it’s putting hair up. Do some extra course invest in your self.

Some stylist hate putting hair up so if it’s your skill you can gain from it whilst offering a service and helping out a work mate.

As this chosen skill grows and the word gets out you will attract more and more. keep updating all your skills but always go that bit extra to stay on top of what it is that defines you.

The more in demand you become the more specialised you become the more valuable you become the rewards for this will naturally follow. cool ha .

As a specialist in your field doors can open for you. Maybe education others or working for a product company. Maybe photographic work or competitions.

What ever door opens consider you options and choices before making a decision.Once a decision is made you have to go with it live with the consequences. Don’t always just be driven by money the quick reward!! just let that naturally follow as it will.

Creativity. Passion . Drive . Motivation these are the things to focus on. never get to big for your boots  never let EGO take charge remember who you are! Where you started out share and give back to others as success comes. Never ask anyone to do something you are not prepared to do yourself be it shampooing  floor sweeping or stay ing late

Mike B2MR


 

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