That hair colour. Does it work for you? Well does it!

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Getting the shade that compliments your skin, eye tone that you feel good and look good with!.

Yes we as stylist we have a role to play when it comes to consultation. That role is to give the client the best advise we can.  

Create that look chose and recommend  colour or colours that will work for you flattering you. The real  skill is listening to what the client  want’s  but also advising on what really works.

That color that look with the wow factor  those colours that make your eyes pop, your face come alive! yes we can over the top go for shock but for 95% of women they want healthy natural great looking colour .We can do this    

                                                             Are you cool?

Your skin tone and eye colour play a big role in helping to determine which hair colour will be best for you there are two main categories, depending on the above: cool and warm.

Cool category:

eyes: deep brown or black brown, Grey blue or dark blue, hazel with white, Grey or blue flecks.

skin tone: very dark brown; true olive (most Asians and Latinos); medium with no color in cheeks medium with faint pink cheeks; medium with golden undertones ;pale with no color in cheeks, pale with pink undertones,brown or bronze when you tan,

Natural hair colour: blue black, deepest coffee brown, medium ash brown, medium golden brown dishwater blonde, salt and pepper, white.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the cool category. Naturally cool people should avoid gold, yellow, red and bronze tones in hair colour. These warm tones have a tendency to make you look sallow and drawn. The best hair colour shades, depending on your skin tone, are shiny raven-wing blacks, cool ash browns, cool blondes in shades ranging from mink to platinum and icy white. You’re also fortunate enough to be able to wear many exciting “unnatural” hair colours like lipstick reds, burgundies, and orchids, purples.

Warm category:

eyes: golden brown, green, green blue or turquoise,hazel with gold or brown flecks,

skin tone: brown with pink undertone, brown with golden undertone, pale with peach or gold undertones, freckled.

Natural hair colour:

Deep brown with gold or red highlights red; strawberry blonde; Grey with a yellow cast; natural golden blonde.

If you were two or more of these, then you fall into the warm category. You should avoid blue, violet, white and jet-black hair, ash based hair colours which will seem to “wash out” your natural colour. Depending on your skin tone and your preferences, you’ll find dark, warm browns, rich golden browns and auburn, warm gold and red highlights, and golden blond shades look best on you. Highlighting is a great way to add warm tones to your hair.

See previous blog. On natural high lights using high lift blonde matching shades with your natural colour.

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2010/08/11/highlights-using-highlift-colour/

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2011/09/13/the-love-of-being-blonde/

What ever your colouring:

I think the key thing here is does the colour you are choosing for your hair make your eyes pop! if it compliments your skin tone and your eye colour then it’s a go!!

Hair Colour cut style it’s all part of the bigger picture that is you makeup, clothes, accessories that is you! Says. This is me. Individual stunning stylish!

All possible patients faith and a willingness for change!! hairdressing plays a part in this and that’s what makes what we do so special  we have the power to solve problems come up with solutions make a difference. work with our clients to educate and advise them to get that unique look and style.

MikeB2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

The hair salon challenges facing stylist’s owner’s

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                                  http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

What are the greatest challenges to stylist and salon owners and managers? Building up and retaining clients. Attracting new business. Being competitive with other local salons? Having that trusting relationship built on. Skill, honesty, creative talent with our clients and staff. ! Oh! And service.

As stylists we can so easily get caught up in being busy staying busy slightly over booking that we forget what is really important. The client. The service. The consultation. The after care advice and so  product sales advise.

Over the years I have come to realize that all of the above points are key to success. They are also the main things we as stylist’s forget, take for granted. These are the things we need to stay on top of, make part of our daily routine when working with our clients.

Salon owners and managers need to consider the location when setting up a new business. The image. What are your goals? How do you become part of the community you hope to serve?

Above: one of the two new salons this was formerly a salon existing business, so new ownership new appearance. new idea’s new vision

Below the salon well situated in between the two salons that opened recently but this one closed down as the two new one’s opened who has it right i wonder ?

I have recently watched two new salons open in the city where I live. They are a few streets apart for this to happen two salons closed. Is the progress or poor planning time will tell. A topic for another day. But worth a mention both these new salons have come into town expanding from smaller towns. Both have the same idea both looking for a piece of the pie! Hum!!! Battle of the newbies. Who will stand the test of time.Who will the paying public endorse in the hard economic times? Both have invested in a fancy up market look both very different. I did try and see if i could have an appointment to talk with one owner about vision concept goals. No response was forth coming ! fear is normally what holds owners back from talking openly.What do they have to fear ?

Above: Second shop newly opened the challenge is on. Can it, will it. Attract enough new clients will the local community embrace another salon in the city? it markets it’s self as 5star hotel treatment that might put some off! just a thought. Image and what we present to the public is so key.

Challenging our selves to make changes into how we work. Questioning what we do. How we interact with our clients is not as an easy thing. To take a long hard look in the mirror and being honest about what needs maybe a little help some adjustment. Is even a harder thing to do. Admitting we need some external help advise guidance. Even harder

I recently wrote a topic about Investing in ones self here is the link

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/09/investing-in-ones-self.html

This topic was one I very much enjoyed writing but i have to admit it was inspired by someone who I greatly admire. Author of Double your salon Sales.  Karen Lynch

http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/

This little book is a real Gem readily available in the USA and soon to be in the Uk it offers advise, asks questions, It challenges you to make changes and shows you step by step how to make them.

It covers everything we do, the daily situations that are presented to us daily.

In this book, Karen will cover all you need to do to make changes, she challenges you to follow her step by step to realise your full potential become truly successful.

My review of Karen’s book.

In writing Double Your Salon Success, Karen Lynch shows she has a true  understanding of the hairdressing world. She reveals the very essence of what makes for success by identifying the combination of service, consultation and sales that are needed to grow and be current. This book encapsulates so much of what we as stylists forget or take for granted. As Karen shares with us Pamela and Skye’s journey, she takes us on a roller coaster ride from start to finish. She reveals their struggle to make their dream a reality which is at times frustrating and emotionally upsetting and at other times exhilarating. As we read, we think “hey, that could be me; that is so right; what a great idea.” From start to finish, this book is a thought provoking and entertaining read that will leave you wanting to take the challenge to walk a new path to success.

The things we do define us. It’s these things that motivate, and inspire us. Question who you are, what you do, what really empowers you. The challenge is to ensure you have the right knowledge and tools to feel empowered. That feeling of positive affirmation will help you take charge and live your dream.

Courses be they. Technical. Hands on. Shows or demonstrations, are all very worth while.

However the real motivator is being creatively challenged, getting excited, having fun at work and in your life.

The real key to this is. The service we offer. Our communication and consultation skills. Honesty when giving advise on after care and sales.

Its this book that raises the questions, offers the answers, Karen has a finger on the pulse of our industry. It happens that with all my years of experience all that this industry has challenged me with given me, showed me, all this has proved that service, consultation, skill and communication are the key tools we all need to have.

Being able to put one’s Ego aside and having the right level of humility we can all challenge our selves constantly striving to grow and help others to attain higher levels.

For those of you in the USA another wonderful source of help and inspiration would be another lady whom I have a huge amount of respect for like Karen passionate and motivated industry professional

Kathy Jager based in Chicago Illinois  do take a look at both these links and sights so much helpful insightful information.

http://www.kathyjager.com/

As we head towards the end of the year start to think of a new and different approach to work to your clients your business for the new year make plans now set goals take action.

Mike B2MR

 

Home hair straightening kit

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

We just about finish posting warnings and exhausted the discussion on some of the professional keratin based hair relaxing products and how important it is to research that they are safe. formaldehyde free.

We have had ammonia free foaming hair colour. We have had  ammonia free all natural heathy hair colour for home use and application now we have.

I see this advertised

Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and Smooth hair straightening kit for non coloured hair.

Charles Worthington Straight and Smooth hair straightening kit, get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment from the comfort of your home.

Above is the add  So i thought lets read the instructions lets see what’s in this product. below is what i could find

Get gorgeously straight, smooth and more manageable hair with natural bounce for up to 40 days from Charles Worthington Salon at Home Straight and; Smooth hair straightening kit. Completely safe and easy to apply in just 25 minutes, this patent-pending breakthrough treatment uses Cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active that re-programmes your hair memory and tames frizz. It’s 100% free from formaldehyde and ammonia. Get the ultra-glamorous results of a professional salon straightening treatment, all from the comfort of your home.

The experts at Charles Worthington have developed Straight and Smooth to help keep your hair straighter for longer. Working closely in collaboration with world-renowned hair expert, Professor Wortmann at Manchester University, the product has been over two years in production to ensure the best results for your hair.

This breakthrough straightening treatment uses cystamine, a gentle and effective straightening active. Cystamine works by re-programming your hair memory so your hair will stay straighter and not want to frizz, even in humid conditions. Our patent – pending technology is blended with proteins and argan oil to leave your hair looking smoother and healthier for longer.

Straight and Smooth is 100% ammonia and formaldehyde free meaning the product is safe to use and gentle on your hair. 85% of women who trialled Charles Worthington Salon at Home, Straight and Smooth agreed it effectively straightened their hair for up to 6 weeks.

Reviews thoughts questions:

As you can read from the above although it eludes to no Ammonia no formaldehyde it does not tell us what’s in it. How it opens the cuticle how it relaxes the hair my guess either Grain alcohol derived Alkaline mixed as  a cream to weigh the hair down keeping it straight in the 20 minute process time it does require neutralising [just like a perm] it’s really a acid perm in reverse not rollers!

I read some reviews not that good sounds rather smelly!

Cystine is what we have in our hair to create curl. We relax the cystine one of the hairs 19 amino acids to make it straight!!!

It might last 6 to 8 weeks that does not mean re do every 6 to 8 weeks !!!!!

It sadden’s me when well respected professional celebrity stylist have to endorse theses none professional products.So much for years in the industry and being a professional. It’s all about the ££££ or $$$$$.

To carry out this procedure one has to put the hair into an alkaline state open the cuticle. We do that with various strengths of Ammonia or with MEA or an alkaline derived from grain fermentation this allows it to be called natural!

Be aware that issues can arise if doing a process like this possible breakage do not do it on pre coloured or bleached hair  any doubts seek professional advise.

I really have the greatest respect for so many of our celebrity stylist they mentor so many. They are looked up to by young aspiring stylists who look to them as professionals these sort of products cheapen that image. Always research any product read reviews before applying it to your hair!

Mike B2MR

 

Hair salon the services we offer

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience.

 

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Hairdressing and the Service Industry:

My Blog is about Hairdressing. Products, but also about the service Industry.

Something we as stylists provide  yet in some case the service we don’t offer! we forget! We get lazy.Complacent !!

Quite simply: 

After a bad experience to a highly recommended salon would you expect a client to return would she recommend. This place. This salon. This experience? Maybe but it would not be in a positive way!

The answer is a Big NO! so can you see where we are going with this?

How do you think your client might feel if for  along period of time you have in between hair cuts trimmed her fringe/bangs free of charge just a quick service you give in between appointments.

The one day out of the blue your regular clients pop’s in for a fringe trim you charge her say £5.00 0or £5.00 .will she questions this? is it a deal breaker ? is it enough to make her think twice about the service and the cost? answer yes it is think before you act short term gain long term loss!

The Salon is no different  to any other service related business. How many times are we on a role that busy day fully booked up and yet we keep fitting people in that busy day becomes an exceptional day! or so we think but was it?  In these very competitive times offering exceptional ‘Service’ That totally special experience is key to having and more importantly retaining clients and indeed getting new recommendations.

 

So that Busy day: A salon should be fun full of life. Interaction, friendly, inviting The problem with that busy day that big money earner it’s a short term view to success and reaching a consistent level of steady bookings.

When we over book, keep clients waiting. We compromise the service in some cases we take short cuts we have to seek the help of others, we might get an assistant to do a colour application that we normally do or that blow dry, we have all done this but it does not go unnoticed trust me your client does notice.

{Having that policy of booking and sticking to it  gains respect sets boundaries}

 

So on reflection: Although it was a busy day a big earner it was chaos you fitted new clients in but at the end of the day how many did you loose? a happy client recommends an unhappy client does not!

You will never reach a level steady busy days with good client retention when you take short cuts and over book money should not be the motivator! concentrate on the client the busy days the higher salary will follow! other wise that busy salon will start to look like this!

Whilst the Salon down the road thrives! Maybe with your now moved on Clients! Should this happen to you it’s time to reflect on. What you are doing. How you are doing it and what your real goal is!

We all have to sometimes take a look in that mirror and remind ourselves that no one is indispensable and that service and the client retention Recommendation are key to success.

 

Consultation.

The Key to success is the time you take with that consultation it is important to note that a consultation should not be limited to new clients that little bit of time spent for that quick review with a returning clients puts then at ease makes them feel specialThis is your time to introduce your self to put your client at ease share thoughts ideas, educate them with your knowledge.

Most Importantly be Honest!

In some cases this honesty could be a recommendation that a colour service at this time might not be a good idea but conditioning and working toward that service would.

Trust me this works! you have been honest explained why this may not be a good idea you are building trust,respect, A relationship!

we are in the business of offering service advise solving problems solving solutions.

A tall order far removed from just standing behind a chair talking about yourself in a flaky none caring manner!

As an example when we get hair like this, above slightly over processed looking dull. Condition refresh recommend products: Discuss realistic goals set out time frame book that important revisit all stuff we know all stuff we forget about!

I moved back here from Canada  almost two years ago and still have contact and relationship with clients to this day.

They become friends it becomes a relationship its a journey we take! its  fun!

 

Things to think about! 

* Consider clients skin tone, eye colour, how they present themselves!

*Never put a shade chart on a clients lap and say! What colour would you like today!

*Never Compromise your standard.

*Have Boundaries.

* Honesty is best Policy.

* Take the time to listen, be educated, well informed, creative and skilled!

We should also consider help support material to maybe guide us forward.Maybe help us address some of the issues that we have allowed to get a little lacks.The service Communication. Consultation skills.

We all from time to time need to take a step back and seek help and advise.

 

A Highly recommended tool.

We need to use all the tools that are available to us.The ones that motivate us. Ones that are written specific to the issues around our industry by passionate professionals who have so much to share and offer to us. One helpful read is the book below written by Karen Lynch it’s very insightful on so many aspect of owning and running a salon and motivating staff.  She is a driven motivated passionate industry professional.

In this book 

Karen takes you along on a journey of discovery and challenges. Two stylist discovering the challenges the emotion roller coaster of success

                                                       http://www.doubleyoursalonsales.com/

It’s is very much hoped this will soon be on sale here in the Uk but you can order via the web link.

Having read the book and watched the educational DVD’s and as some one who has nothing to gain from this recommendation apart from sharing it as a tool that I think very inspiring written by someone with a solid background and so an understanding of the issues we all come across daily in the salon as either an owner manager or stylist.

Mike B2MR

 

Hair colour. Is it Herbal, organic,natural or chemical?

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across them.With so many manufacture’s producing and making claim so so many innovative colour break throughs we have to take some time to try and understand what is on offer.What makes them so different in. How they work. What they do. What we can expect from them we have to know and understand the chemistry of all such products.

Claims that is natural health and organic are not enough.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA.

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/03/hair-colour-and-alkalinity-ph.html

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote: below.

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them so i can share a review with you all.Sadly nothing was ever forth coming!

I am now waiting fro some information on another colour line so stay tuned!

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR