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Category Archives: HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,

A BLOG TO SHARE THOUGHTS IDEA’S ON HAIRDRESSING AND OUR INDUSTRY

Spring is in the air. Thoughts for wedding day hair


                                     Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR 

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s…

Wedding day hair for the Bride: The biggest day the happiest and hopefully one of the most memorable days of her life. As Stylists we play  a big part of making this day a big success.We have to remember that the look we create will always be part of the record of this special day. Consultation with the bride having a relationship having a clear understanding of vision look that the bride to be has in mind. We have to remember that we are the professional. Should we advise if a look is not the right?  If the style is not suited because of hair type or indeed general look? Yes of course our job is to sympathetically advise and guide the bride to be. This should all come out of the Consultation and indeed practice sessions.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Working with our clients to find and create that perfect wedding hair Up-do that special look making her feel princess for a day. has many challenges an diet can be such a rewarding journey for al concerned. Stressful, emotional, A journey embarked  working to discover and create that perfect look and style!

I have tried to keep a record of such a journey I took as a stylist in some ways more challenging than most maybe with more pressure than most. In another  way a very special unique position to be in. My parting gift to my daughter an Up do forged from love a look worthy of our journey up to this special moment. Her wedding day

As I write this and reflect on what an important day this truly is. I wonder  how many of us as stylist really take the time to consider what a privilege it’s is to be a part of this an dhows seriously we take it .For it is not just another up do another wedding another way of making some extra cash!

I will share with you practice session not always pretty but it’s how one gets feel for the hair how it will go up looks that w evan create it’s play time. With very long hair one has to have this practice time not just to find a look but also to get the timing right! In the case of my daughter we were dealing with very long and quite fine hair hair.

We also have to consider colour and work back from the wedding date to make suer it looks it’s best on the day. I would suggest in most cases the colour should be done about a week prior top the day!

Below first session as  have indicated sharing all so not saying they are all perfect or ideal it’s part of the process.

 Having played around with the looks above and below we ruled out braids and anything to bitty so we established what we did not want progress. through consolation listening and patients.

The out takes session one we decided to busy and disjointed and no braids! moving on: next we start to play with the idea of pleats and buns again exploring options. We decided both these looks we liked the swirl but not big enough and just a little to much going on again we agreed on this whilst look at digital shots on the comp of each look. takes time but well worth itbelow the last look we dismissed as being a little to much like a french pleat! as classic but not for this look.

 

As you can see quite a few looks and styles created explored and ultimately rejected!  patients on both sides is a must, the bride can and indeed may become emotional it’s stressful process. But  so very well worth while. All the looks show off colour texture but just missed a little something  until one just pooed out! It is my opinion that some of these up do looks area  very messy .I wanted to share the experience so had to post them to show the journey we took.The out takes and how it evolved it does not just happen. even top stylist practice a look so it looks easy and it works! No we are getting closer to a look and both feeling better!

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These last two were the end of day one and i think show quite the journey of how things evolve shapes form ideas come to life below the find; look on the day.Note i did not see or know what the dress would be like i put her hair up prior to seeing her.

These last two shots above:

show off a look but they also show texture and show off the highlights oh and the beauty of the bride to be. Whilst doing this exercise we had i deal i would not see the dress but would find a look that would do it justice. We discovered on the day the the pleat and the texture created  worked the same way as the fabric of the back of the dress Master the art be creative have confidence enjoy creating remember it’s not always about money the rewards can be so much greater!!

Sharing a few other looks with you:

shot from the back lots of texture also showing off the low lights in her hair this adds texture and movement.

finally having some fun with some very long amazing red hair you just have to play explore have fun be creative working with your client enjoy the journey the experience the challenge.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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Hair cuts techniques styles


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following in the steps of our make over article some food for thought

A place to share thoughts: review hair colour, products and techniques.

I’m often asked how many different hair cuts are there ? My first thought was thousands but then if one really thinks about it well it’s quite an interesting thought process.

We need to think this through a little!

Long.             Anything past shoulder blades

Medium.        Shoulder blades up to nape or chin length

Short.            Anything above this.

Remember this is my thought process into the question asked not a definitive way of assessing or going about cutting or assessment of length or look, just sharing thoughts views on the process! My thought went to layers why layers. well at the end of the day if not all one length then layers to some degree or another make form the shape. It could be argued that layers are required for a perfect on length look for that wonderful swing and movement!

We must not forget techniques, slide cutting, castle thinning shear, razor Cutting, and the many other tools we have at out disposal but these are techniques if you like artistic license, freestyle cutting.The basic’s don’t change the length and degree of layering.Shape form, weight distribution. This sounds to simplistic all hair cuts are length and shape created by degree’s of layering. Simple it’s not because with this description we have to consider the real part creative talent, skill training. Any hair cut however basic or however complicated is a mixture and blend of above techniques.

What is a hair cut:

A hair cut is weight distribution it is having understanding of when cutting hair off where it will fall and lie how it will contribute to the final shape. It is being able to see and imagine shape. Someone once said a great hairdresser should see a shape in 3D know how it will look, I think this a perfect analogy.

A great hair cut is a blend of the degree of laying but having a full understanding of weight distribution and a vision to see shape.

The key is that consultation. On length and shape but also first and foremost to understand that if you put a weight line in with your fist cut it will dictate the whole cut it can make the difference between good bad average or just not good.

What ever we are doing creating has to start with a foundation. If you do this a weight line can be moved as a shape forms if you commit to it off the bat by dictating from the crown you have know room for change maybe that odd growth pattern double crown all things that can cause issue!

It can also be said that one length really is only when cut to 1/8th of an inch all over and left to grow but this would only be true as it grows out if you turned the person up side down. but then we are back into weight distribution why because you cannot cut a straight line on a curved surface and given the shape of the head we have thousands of curves and angles to play with hence understanding weight distribution.

I think that angles on the head could be by think about a fan placing on the crown open it up  many angles now place on crown different direction again many angles how to they the work together? These two shots above and below highlight perfectly bad hair i really don’t know whats worse 1/ That maybe the lady likes this look? Or 2/ slightly worse that she paid for it and a professional thought this acceptable. It’s really bad

As an exercise try this:

Stand behind your client take a section across the crown about 3inches wide comb it straight up now look below your fingers at the section the distance from the crown to your fingers is less in the middle than the distance on the out side of section, why because of the curve of the scalp so it follows that it will be be straight when it falls. Now take that same section and lean it to the left as you do this the hair from the right and into  middle of the section will fall away carry on with the hair traveling to the left of the section the further you go the more will fall away. This is weight distribution!

The hair cut is a hair creation. A style. A look. A fashion setting trend. A statement of individuality. If all of these are the case. Why as stylist do we in so many cases stick in so many cases to cutting the same look on everyone? Without any thought to some very basic points or stick to the safe options on the styles we can create. Will is suite this Client? Do they have the right hair type and features? Can they carry it off?

An example of a make over: Razor cut:

As stylists we owe it to both ourselves and our customers Clients to advise in an honest way on what might work be suitable look good, If we don’t do this are we really doing our job to it’s fullest are we being real professional are we being honest?

                      ready for a make over the next day she gave birth!

I ask these questions of my self constantly do you? We live in a society that for the most part is very accepting and tolerant of most things, People come in all shapes sizes have different needs desires aspirations all good but we as hair stylist have to take a lead and advise honestly what looks good what will not work.

When thinking about shape texture a look should we not consider the type of hair fine, thick, curly, growth patters at the nape of the neck to the hair line will that fringe {Bang }work for this client and her life style? If i cut this harsh blunt line at the nape will the hair lie the way i want it to? or will it always look lop sided? will that fringe work can i over layer ? yes you can should i add texture? questions to ask your self!

Should i cut a harsh line maybe it should be softer! Why do you see so many men with lop sided cuts? Answer no account was taken for the way the hair grows! just because you combed it flat against his neck cut a perfect strait line does not mean it will lie this way!

At this juncture you may be laughing or thinking this is not me maybe not if so great you are one of the few. I think the fault with these issues lies in training or lack their of! to little time spent on the basic points key to understanding how to build and create a great cut!

                                       well quite the change

Shape  for Example:

when will we stop re vamping the Bob with the chewed up wings the spaniel look! every look has it day but this one is done and oh so dusted, half the women wearing it should not be! In some cases the lines created are just wrong a heavy women with a thick set does not need a strong blunt line emphasising no neck round shoulders. Think about this really fine hair textured within an inch of its life for that shattered edgy look around the chin will it does it work?

The same can be said for cutting this shape into wavy curly hair the line will not hold in the nape area and the length left again around the chin line will curl up looking like to Brillo pads, yes it looks great when she leaves the salon you have hot ironed it with an inch of it’s life, guess what it’s raining it’s Grey it’s damp what it’s going to look like?

We need to consider these things as professional is a bad look a good representation of out skill and ability will it get us recommendation will it get us client retention? It’s all about honest it’s all about that consultation it’s all about your standard your skill your passion your ability.

                   Razor cut side view lots of movement and texture

My question is. Can you be honest does any of this apply to you? We are none of us perfect but we have to question our choices. We have to raise the bar we have to have skill, passion and a real desire to make a difference! DO YOU!

These shots are of a young mum to be. She was heavily pregnant hated how she looked and felt. She came into the salon I was working at her words were. I have been to three salons today I want all my hair off  a total change. No one will do it they look at me like a crazy pregnant women.  I smiled said i will. she said really. As you can see the rest is history! next day she gave birth . She called me three days later to thank me.

To share, to seek new knowledge, skills and techniques to share experience is to grow!

Mike B2MR

I would love feed back on this through this blog article or my web site:

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 


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If your hair colour goes badly wrong. what to do!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR  regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

I posted a reply to the issues raised in this Article: Thought i would share some thoughts and exchanges between myself and a client.

This is such a contentious subject:

A never ending issue for so many women. I thought it worthy of sharing below extracts from our exchange.

Below have posted the question raised in dark solid type. and have tried to respond to the question raised this.This was a real situation and exchange of idea’s with someone who contacted me on line via this blog.

                         lets look at this issue together

Text from Initial article:

Question:

I am trying to get my normal hair colour back. But I am really not interested in waiting for it to happen by itself. So to this ends I colour my hair in  the same colour as my normal colour. Last night I used Schwartzkopf Essential Color – Ash Blonde. A brilliant concept Sadly I ended up with lighter roots, still with a gold hue and lighter than my natural shade.The Mid length’s and ends were darker and rather drab!

My response:

Poor your! Was your hair previously coloured? Firstly just because it’s ammonia free does not make it one Peroxide free so it still lifts all of your hair. Bringing out natural warmth in the regrowth. Secondly if it does not have Ammonia and it’s marketed as as natural it has De-alcoholised grain bye product in it or some other Alkaline. This can just as drying in some cases more so than Ammonia.It just does the job of opening the cuticle in a slightly different way. If you are mixing two products together  then the chances are you are still using peroxide in your formulation and so permanent hair colour.

                                        over processed dull lifeless

Client Reply:

Wow! Thanks so much for your response! I learned a lot and will definitely keep an eye out for your blog, because my hair is a pain (hence it’s very curly).
And yes, it was previously coloured.

My Reply:

Thanks you again for the reply. Sadly one cannot lift colour with colour nor do any of the products one buys advise on effect on previously coloured hair.

As soon as we use choose permanent colour the equation changes as we lift our own hair so we lighten the pigment and warmth comes in to play hence lift and deposit.

But as we lift we then have to choose a shade that can take this warmth into account,the question becomes? Do you want to use it or neutralize it or utilize it?.

Once hair has a colour history then we have a new issue that being. Roots or re growth that have never been previously coloured and mid lengths and ends with history of previous chemical service. In this case different formulation will be required,one to lift and deposit on the root area. One just deposit to colour balance.

Back to your situation. If your natural shade is darker than what you have, You don’t need a formulation to lift your hair just one to deposit. Demi permanent or Semi  permanent would be enough if its to warm shows orange hue. Then get an ash based shade Isuggest level 6 this will neutralize unwanted warmth. Semi permanent or Demi permanent  Natural level Dark Blonde.

The above shot is a god example of going lighter over time from an all over permanent solid shade. It also allows for the issue of Grey hair,In this instance by introducing over time different shades of lowlights with out the need for bleaching.We are embracing the grey issue working with it.Over time the hair is in better condition and the time between needing colour service is extended.

You might think odd why would you want to see a client less often? Good point but because she is so happy this client recommends more of her friends they keep my busy .In real terms i am growing my business by being honest and giving great service.

Try it It’s not always about the 4 or 6 week ticket it is about re booking in a time frame that works for each and every client be it 4 weeks 6 weeks or 8weeks!

                                    Healthy natural looking colour

The above model was having highlights every 5 to 6 weeks .It was to Blonde damaged over processed.Now with low lighting and highlighting she has her roots done only on the top a big T section every 3 months the rest is natural .She is very happy!

hope this helps you.

Mike B2MR

Thanks 🙂
Next time I will without a doubt go to a professional to colour my hair. Consider this a promise!

So many colour issues can arise from home colour. Be it first attempt or regular colouring trying to get that perfect shade with tone and condition.

In so many cases the over the counter super market or store purchased colour. Does not give advise on all the issues that can arise.

Sadly they don’t even give advise with regard to. Switching shades from Dark to light from Red to Blonde, or something in between.

I strongly suggest research, consultation, or post questions asking for answer’s on my blog site:

Many topic’s have already been covered so feel free to search past articles.

Don’t rely on luck get informed before you start down this colour path.

MikeB2MR

 

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Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Chair or booth rental Mobile freelance.The challenges


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Created as a source of advise education knowledge skill experience a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Salon ownership Chair rental mobile freelance.

Do you own a salon? Do you employ your staff? Maybe have chair renters are you the manager of such an establishment? Are you an employee? Do you rent a chair. So many question so many options!  I raise this topic as platform to discussion.

Still focusing on service the salon experience but looking at it from a different angle I would like to do this in the order as above.

As a salon owner and employer how do you set a good example? How do you employ the right staff? How do you create the environment that projects ambiance,one that looks amazing yet has the right level of efficient offering professional service. A place that is welcoming creative filled with highly skilled passionate caring stylists. The only way this is possible is to be  hands on with your team leading managing running your salon. From a point of view of having retaining and attracting the right staff in this instance the only way forward for you is to have Salon control.

This includes employing staff paying commission rewarding those who succeed.

As an owner you have very little control over the stylist hours. How they operate if you choose the chair rental route then the stylist renting space from you  running a mini business within  your salon. This can cause issues over pricing hours worked commitment to the salon the greater good!

Some times short term gain is long term agony.Commission creates motivation employing and rewarding staff creates team spirt and friendly competition with in the salon. Greater staff incentive to succeed be the best you can and reap the rewards.

So like so many aspects of business it’s about choices making a decision and making it work the instant knowledge of regular rent or the challenges and rewards of truly running and building a successful business with loyal staff and clients.

So moving on. Do you have a manager?

If so this has to be a partnership that works give and take listen support each other. As a manager you get to not only over see many aspects of the running of the salon but you are also directly responsible for staff employment moral and most importantly service standards knowledge and education.

You get to help to creating the atmosphere the image. you get to grow the salon help it watch it succeed and grow and should be rewarded accordingly. Salon owners that take advantage of hard working managers will lose them along with clients and staff if they don’t respect the role they play and what they contribute.

If you allow Chair rental. How do you control theses stylists when they are paying you rent? How many do you want on a rental agreement. how do you attract them? What hours will be covered by them? How do you manage this when they are in business of running a mini business within your business? Do you provide the receptionist ?

Who keeps the books and takes care of the financial side of things from. Taking clients payment to invoices? Ordering managing stock. Dealing with all tax records and making payment of said taxes?

What support service do you offer them? How do you have an influence on the standard the service they offer? To have a business totally reliant on Chair rental especially if you are not active as a stylist in your own salon or have an understanding of our industry the salon dynamics is quite a risk.

As someone renting a chair. What do you get for your monthly fee? What are your expectations? you and you alone are your business, no owner or manger to blame if things are not going well! if your clients switch to a different stylist or move salon. how to you cope when wanting holidays?

Most stylist who go into a chair rental situation are well established in many cases resent the salon owner who they feel are making a mint out of their work! From you and your client’s Chair renters are not typically team players nor do they want to start their own business. They are not always the best organised in many cases don’t think the what being self employed means or what the ramification might be.

As a renter you still need to be able to have a relationship with the salon owner  you are also responsible for retaining maintaining and bringing in new business providing your working stock, being on time, offering that personal service

Then the things that cross over come to mind does salon owner provide any services in the form of help assistance? Do they keep a level of retail products? Do they provide a receptionist to book greet clients? Do they offer any help with regard to book keeping your personal business management! a repeat from the salon owners point of view but as i said it’s a to way street many aspects will cross over eacht other.

These are all things to consider things that cut into that i just want to do hair and keep 100% of the take it can be quite complex.

Insurance both personal third party liability who is responsible for this? It would be my  suggestion both parties are responsible why? One as owner  providing the salon a place for clients to come to the stylist as the one performing the tasks applying the products taking a fee, both should be covered how is this dealt with?much to consider.

With all these different examples of in salon situations one thing is inherent the need to communicate the need to work together the need to create the best environment and standard of service to retain clients. a  healthy codependent relationship built on trust understanding and striving for a common goal stability and business success.

In my book it’s a no brainer the challenge and having the control being master of my own ship and destiny wins every time. Find and work with the right team the success and reward will follow.Nothing good in life is ever free or easy. If it is if it seem’s to good to be true if it’s a business plan that offer’s instant gratification.

Whilst Chair rental works for many on both sides think about what as a salon owner or some one about to start a salon it is you really want.Don’t lose sight of your dream your vision your goal. How do you want the service’s you offer delivered.

I do not suggest that stylist renting chairs are all unprofessional i know from experience this is not the case. However for both side it is a union that should not be entered into lightly.

Maybe as a stylist your the owner of your own small freelance business maybe your home based or make house calls, maybe your a booth renter and freelance.

 In many ways some of the above does and will relate to you. the main thing here is you often work alone,yes you are very busy,but how often do you really interact with other stylist’s and industry professional? how current are you really be honest? How often do you take the time find the time and say ,Time for a tune up ! I need to step things up? I need a refresher i’m feeling a little stale ! well? it happens to the best of us. My bet would be not very often if ever? your either to busy or convince your self that it’s not important! ego talking you know it all!!!

Be warned not addressing this visiting it can in the long term effect your business and so be something you will regret!

We all need to look in the mirror from time to time a little one on one, so often the demands on day to day life make this impossible. Make that time find that time to reflect on your goals be honest about how current you are is your vision still on track! How up to date are your skills, techniques, even product knowledge.

However much the rewards are working alone is very isolating even if your booth or chair renting unless you make  a point of having interaction with others. We need to share and interact with other like minded professional it’s how we grow and learn and develop.

WHY IS THIS?

The skill the techniques the standard of service should not change or be effected because we work alone or in a small team, yet in so many cases the need the want to stay updated and current gets pushed aside priorities !!

The key contributors to this is ourselves our own ‘EGO’ and fears we can so easily convince our selves that we know everything,We did our training got qualified we know it all.HUM to that! talking with others asking or seeking help or advise form others,indeed just sharing thoughts can give a whole new focus and out look on things. Remember it’s about you your vision of what really is success.

These days we have so many ways to connect with others,through internet groups and forums,get informed read reviews on shows and education events, no more excuses!

hang out for  awhile at your local distributor ,It’s a great way to meet stylist just like your self,chat about colour lines and products.With so many products available to us and so many coming to the market all the time it’s no wonder we could do with a little refresher form time to time. i know i do !

Be it technical work,cutting techniques, salon service and consultation skills. aspects of running a small or independent business. communicating with other industry professional .it’s all these things that we need to address keep up to date with and be honest about.

We need to put ‘EGO’ aside seek out the right source of help and be prepared to take constructive advise,Critical comments on how to improve.work with some one you respect who can work with you on the key investment in self.

Are you ready to walk a new path? invest in your won future,Market that product that is you? no matter what your current situation is be it Mobile,freelance booth or chair renter, Be and stay current take those steps to shine and excel.Be in demand fully booked successful and happy all possible.

lots to consider what are your thoughts and views?

Mike B2MR

looking for some business support then check out http://www.karendavidintl.com/  a great place for help and support.

 

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Misinformation Hair colour product knowledge


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

What is written in the heavy print is my view of course only my view!! However I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material in the public domaine.

Always research don’t trust all that you read as being correct knowledge is power  a little knowledge is dangerous! Stay informed current up to date have high standards and expect nothing less from those around you!

Lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR

Permanent Colour:

Permanent colour gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations and in maybe an extreme case! In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application. Issues with excess warmth will occur using 40 vol developer! 

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available always find out what the alkaline is in your colour!

Semi-Permanent Colour:

Colour usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Colour:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle for slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Colour:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Colour Rinse:

Colour lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                      1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLOURED HAIR CARE TIPS

Coloured and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun. Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

SHAMPOO COLOUR ENHANCERS:

Use colour enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

Personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

 

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Our love affair with home hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR


Home Hair Colour: THE PIT FALLS.
Why is home hair colour such big business? Why is it in such demand? cost ? time? ease of use? yes of course. Consider advertising promotion celebrity endorsement products branded by brand name professional stylists. Daily bombardment of beautiful natural style you can create at home from this box of wonder.Hard to ignore right!

I have been inspired to touch on this huge subject . Offer some advise and share some experiences gained from so many great years in our industry.  It’s very cool.

I will try and cover some subjects from the every day challenges to the creative over the top looks oh and some of the hair nightmares we get to fix and advise on! We all need to do understand how things happen and why ! 

Misuse of products. Miss information. Inpatients and not following guide lines and instructions. We can all be guilty of these things at some point in our career! I have already posted topic’s on this blog site on Bleaching. Lift deposit.Toning. Damage. Condition. I have decided that as topic’s they can always be re visited.  Reviewed in depth see most recent topic’s on all subjects.  In the hopes of guiding and providing information that helps avoid pit falls.

                           A list of topic’s that may well be added to:

Bleaching/ Decolourizer/ Lift deposit?/ Toning.

Metallic salts in hair colour.

Re dying hair/ with Drug store colour / Roots Application/colour Balance.

Removing Colour/ Stand tests/ Condition.

Using Pigment / Under tone pigment friend or foe: 

Bleaching Root application.

I also think at this juncture. That it is worth mentioning that.  Not all home colours be they permanent tints or fun fashion shade are what they claim to be. It’s buyer beware. If  your wondering should I colour my hair will it hold colour a very simple test.

Take a strand test. Remove a small amount of your processed hair and drop it into a glass of water. If it sinks fair chance it will not hold colour and is over processed healthy hair will float. If you have a history of colouring and bleaching it on a regular bases. It may feel slimy when wet sort of stretchy time to give it a rest!! it’s toasted! will not hold colour.

Many Products:  Claiming to be. Ammonia free have something else doing the same Job an Alkaline. MEA , Grain Alcohol derivatives. Other products that manipulate the ph of the hair.[see past posting on subject] They in some cases can contain trace elements of metallic salts. This is why it’s essential to do a stand test. prior to applying bleach a chemical reaction can occur creating heat. 

                    In worst case this heat can melt over processed hair

To determine if hair has been colored by a metallic dye, mix 1 oz. of 20-volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28% ammonia. Submerge 20 strands of hair in the solution and let it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes. If the hair lightens rapidly, the hair contains lead. If there is no reaction after 30 minutes, the hair contains silver or bismuth. If the solution starts to boil and emits a foul odor, the hair contains copper. Hair that has no metallic salts on it should lighten only very slightly.

I hope that this information is helpful and that the topic’s  covered do help with some of the issues that can happen when colouring and re colouring hair. Without knowledge of the products chemistry or formulation the risks of a chemical reaction or poor results or indeed allergic reaction can be a risk.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                        1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10 Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLORED HAIR CARE TIPS

Colored and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun.

Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade.

Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair.

Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

Use color enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style & shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material.

please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Although I offer sound advise. Every head is different the  history on any given head is different so information and advise offered is only guidance. Although I am a qualified  professional i cannot guarantee results on any given head.

If in doubt get a professional consultation it should be free and without commitment. 

All of the topic’s and articles posted are designed and share knowledge and experience Hoping to inspire and raise standards.

Mike B2MR                   http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/   







 

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