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Category Archives: Hair dye

The hair salon the industry what do they mean to you?


 Back2myroots : 

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                What is a hair dressing salon?:

Is it just a place to do business? Is it a hub a hive of activity? A place where like minded talented stylist get together to share there talents to gain and share experience. A place to train and be trained! A place to work your craft build a reputation be a success. It is so much more consider for a client. It’s a place of relaxation. A place to socialise palace to trust, in many cases as stylist we can and do build strong bonds of trust even friendships with our clients.
For a salon to succeed be a successful Business so many factors have to come together.

Many things to consider Location a key component. Image the very essence of the business. Goals. Vision. Staff. Products. Marketing. Innovative thinking collaboration. All of theses are key component’s for success is any one more important than another:

A point for discussion what do you think? For me it’s the team. Management and all the staff.

The Team:                    

Here is an example on the above. Who owns the salon? Who are Staff hard to tell. they all look equal they are a real team.I’m sure they have structure and mutual respect. But it’s not a dictatorship it’s not a salon class system.

I have been writing quite a few of these Blogs mainly for me a way to share and reflect, I do it seems come back to the same key themes.

Education. Knowledge. Honesty and Service. creative thinking open discussion. Personal development openness to learn. To embrace criticism and valuable feed work,collaborate be a team player . We should never stop learning or wanting too! Never think we know it all! { us hairdressers have big ego’s and it can get in the way}  Success and learning and service if you don’t like people don’t like communicating why be a hairdresser! Being honest with your self about who you are being honest with your clients really important if you want to succeed.

I read a recent article

One person had written in raising a question about his partners in a salon being more interested in platform work self promotion than being committed to the business:

                                                           {back to ego issues }

Having worked for a number of years as both an educator and platform Artist I know how much fun it can be. The rush of walking out on a stage introducing yourself your models you have and own the stage your centre of attention.

                                                       {For that brief moment}

Being an educator and platform artist can help you promote both your self and your business. This should be the reason for doing it! Yes to further your career to gain knowledge to share but don’t get sucked into thinking your really that special. Dangerous it’s not fame it’s fore filling that inner need to a platform to show off the most important things is to learn and share help develop the salon your teammates. Encourage personal development of all skills both hands on technical but also personal growth.

The big Colour Companies need us to sell promote educate their products. At the end of the the day your Salon should be your priority why? It’s yours to build to grow without the constrains dictated to you when representing a large corporate concern. Use the education experience you gain to share with your staff use your skills knowledge on your clients use the fact that you are an industry expert to your advantage. support your juniors your trainees.

Another interesting topic stylist with poor client retention key to business a stylist who is unable to build a client base is questionable. A stylist who gets no returns or recommendations from clients the salon gives them is costing the business money. 

                                                   {what would you do in this situation?}

This is time for open honest discussion with owner manager staff member: Time for honesty and truth ask the key question why do you think we are in this situation. make them take responsibility set out a plan together to improve set out a time frame for change set a date for review.
Communication is key having said that the individual has to take responsibility for their actions or lack their of, suggest in salon training nights a time to share thoughts idea’s courses education, maybe a course in service handling clients, a little attitude adjustment. Finally as an owner i would set a dead line for giving them clients, suggesting that after an agreed period a new stylist is being brought in and it will be their turn to be promoted. Harsh maybe but it’s but it’s how to move your business forward.

keys to salon success:

Choose the best products you can stay on top of new products: be informed question everything!

As new Colour lines come out try them have in salon training and Demo days.

Educate your self and your staff on the products you use then you can  share and educate your clients.
Have staff get to gather open debate creative discussion nights collaborate ion idea’s

Clients love know that your a true professional share you knowledge that Consultation your time to shine.
These shots are close up’s of hair i have coloured highlights all over colour multi shade highlights permanent semi permanent learn it all

It is my view for success surround yourself choose to work with people you like respect and can learn from Motivated talented creative honest stylist, who are also willing to learn to share to help grow the business, develop your team, work with problem solvers not makers! be the salon for training and education share and reward success with your team be that salon of solutions!

Encourage personal growth and education. stay on top of new products have in salon education events strive to be the best have the best reputation this will create a place people will want to work in clients will want to be a part of. I hope that this article will be of interest to both stylist owners managers educators and platform artist’s we are all part of a team.

                     THESE LOOKS ARE OF THE SAME MODEL NATURAL CURLY HAIR

Coloured with Red Copper tone her natural hair level is a 6 dark Blonde.

Colour used was for deposit only when going tone on tone unless we want to bring the clients own pigment out lift is not required.

Using say 10 vol may have made this even brighter but would create roots issues down the road. This up do was created to get as much height as possible without it falling down or over. In this instance two scouring pads were used like doughnuts on top of each other some hair pulled through the hole in the middle this creates the cascading hair from the top the rest is wrapped around allowing free fall providing texture and movement. Finally from the front view a very loose sexy look  with lots of height but still keeping lots of softness

As the hair falls down. Putting hair up in this manner with a firm base as a structure will not fall down.

                                                http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                    http://uk.linkedin.com/in/mikevallanceb2mr

Become a part of this Blog {quote} 

Hello Mike – nice blog. Way too “expert” for me the layperson/ consumer but nonetheless interesting and educational. kirsten:

(http://kirstenknaup.wordpress.com/

Next week http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ will be switching to a new look with a new .org address this will enable me to offer more material and start offering down loads on some material I hope that over time I can develop the site as a place to come to to share thoughts but also gain information that might help you develop as both a creative stylist but also on  personal and business level. best to all Mike B2MR

next week subscribe to email up dates get a free download PDF.

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Hair colour or dye the consultation


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

The Consultation your time to shine:

I’ve been a fully trained stylist involved in our industry for well over 30 years have been fortunate enough to have experienced many aspects of the hairdressing Industry. In my many years of working with clients, I like to think that nothing shocks or surprises me many clients have shared every issue that may arise and come to us at our chair and station chair.

I’ve seen young women come in with orange roots and white ends. I’ve seen red roots and black ends.  I’ve seen hair looking like a traffic light from violet to blue, colors that usually are reserved for flowers.When I see these mistakes colour failures in some case hair nightmares one cannot help but feel oh so sorry for the client to which these hair are attached.

Normally when the color mistakes are so apparent the truth is impossible to ignore the poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic that one  really wants to help and fix this problem if at all possible. The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation. Then there are the liars. I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie. As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service.

Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

 A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change; let’s say going lighter.  We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.  whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage, If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair.  It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month.  If there is a any sort of line of demarcation, we know there was something “done” to the hair,  and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason.  When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything.  To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue.  In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. stale mate helps no one!

Here’s some information everyone needs to know.

Anything from a box color to a highlighting shampoo that causes any visible difference in your hair color has permanently altered the hair structure. Sun-In or anything like that, especially highlighting shampoos and conditioners have any variety of alkaline chemicals that diffuse your natural pigment. Beware of these products since they may contain sodium hydroxide which is relaxer. Any color from a box that is made from 2 or more components that are mixed together have some sort of peroxide component. Peroxide oxidizes your natural pigment, so if there is any alkaline in the formula, you will get lift. Many box colors say that they last 24 shampoos simply put if your color is changed by a box and if you grow out roots, it is not temporary the hair structure has been permanently affected. When hair is colored or receives any chemical service it is permanently affected till it is is cut off.

You may have correction to re colour blonde hair with brown pigment, it may be a perfect colour match  but the hair still has any inherent damage caused by the initial service in this case going blonde. As a client try and be as open as possible the more history the better  their is no advantage in trying to hide any chemical service that you have introduced into their hair.   there is no reason to hide any details no  matter what the box says informed decisions are easier to make with all the information at  hand and every thing must be taken into consideration.  When we ask you questions about what has happened to your hair for the past year or so, we need to know everything so we can make the right decisions for your services.

Next time you come in to get any chemical service done be completely honest with your colorist or  as a stylist you are doing a consultation make sure you ask all the right question.We can read the history of your hair and there is no need for deception.  After all, we have your best interests in mind.  As it’s said ‘The truth will set you free’. A lie may break your hair!

Our goal a professional stylist is to work with clients to deal with the issue at hand offering the best service possible supported with education knowledge and an honest understanding of what is possible given any situation and history. Always retaining the right to say ‘No’

Mike B2MR

some extra facts:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOR

Permanent Color:

Permanent color gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth. Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations, In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application.

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available.

Semi-Permanent Color:

Color usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol. Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Color:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation. Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle fro slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Color:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage. A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s  sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Color Rinse:

Color lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft. As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hair, they can cause staining issues

There there is always the herbal organic products that you might want to consider.

http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/01/30/natural-herbal-organic-hair-colour/


 

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Blonde hair colour and hair Dye


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

                 Spring perfect time to think Blonde

Wake up and smell the roses Its Spring. You can you have a natural looking Blonde hair colour Is it maintainable ? Will it damage the condition? Will it look to orange or yellow? All very good questions.

Before considering going blonder or lighter. Have a professional consultation be very careful when considering home Dye especially if you have previous colour on your hair. anything is possible with the right advise and skilled professional working with you. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan. If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you or at least some light tones to brighten you up. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible. Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. Toning down for the fall or autumn! It just takes some forward planning and some patients moving around with shade and tone to create new looks without damage is quite possible.

Mike B2MR

 

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The hair salon and the stylist.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

The key role of the Stylist /Hairdresser in the salon:

We have in recent topic’s talked about. How important the role of the receptionist is and how the reception area is the hub of the salon  what a key role they plays in the smooth running of the salon. We have looked at the hard work that all trainee’s and apprentices put in. The commitment and loyalty in so many cases for very low wages minimum  wage is so out of touch with the cost of living fro these young up coming stylists. They work really hard in the hope of getting well trained we should all make sure that they get the very best.

Now lets look at the roll of the stylist.

As important as both of the positions above are what about. the stylist. The hairdresser. The colour technician and huge role they playe. Without a professional team the salon would not exist or function. Let’s stake a look at the role of the stylist. From the time the stylist get to the salon to start their day they must have their game face on. That image of being a true professional. Highly skilled. Creative. With excellent communication skills and technical ability. In-fact their day should start before they ever get to work getting ready for the day. Clothes, make up image all so key for that first impression. The way you dress and the way your hair looks is representative of who you are what you do. We have to leave our personal issues and baggage at home it’s show time.

 As a stylist’s you have to be a team players. We have to be multi be able to multi task! This can be anything from helping to keep the salon running on occasion. Sweeping the floor, washing colour bowls, towel duty. Yes all in a days work! Manage your day your appointment list be organised. This involves working with team and staff members. The receptionist can help you to keep your day running smoothly and  keep you fully booked!. Apprentices and trainee’s again they help you keep your day running on time and with out a hitch offering client support and assistance and service.

As a stylist apart from ongoing skill and training. Communication and consultation skills are really so important. Being a good listener helps. Keeping good up to date client records is also very key to ongoing success and good client retention. It shows the client that you care makes them feel special. As a stylist we are in the business of making recommendation and problem solving. To do this we have to make sure our skills are always up to date. This can be hands on technical ability and indeed product knowledge both in the area of the products we use are constantly changing and evolving  as indeed with retail products knowledge.

As stylists although we don’t like to think of our selves as being sales people and in the service industry we are. You sell through recommendation either by offering a new service or treatment or by recommending retail products to complement and maintain both condition and looks created in the salon. Every thing you do is related to service the experience you offer. That is what you do that is why clients come back great service and consultation.

As a team or staff member although it’s not generally insisted upon getting and being involved in ongoing personal skill up dates and training should be part of your routine. As should skill sharing by giving of your time to share your skill and knowledge with the apprentices and trainees you owe it to them.Yes they help you make you day work it’s time to give back !! you were like them once never forget that. This can be done on a rotation depending on size of the salon and policy.

 Getting busy, being established in the salon both as a staff and team member takes time. But as you develop both as a personality and accomplished stylist so trust and respect develop. At the same time communication and sharing of views and opinions with those around you should be developed become a true team member. Building relationships with Salon owner. Manager. Fellow stylists. Reception and yes trainees.  This is all part of  helping to create an environment for creative thinking. Collaboration on projects and idea’s for improvements be an innovator. Don’t become done of those negative seen it all done it all types that can be so negative to moral in a salon.

Got an idea share it! make it happen!

Challenge your self and those around you be inspiring mentor those young trainees. Be actively involved in promoting the salon. Look for ways to improve your skills courses and training events. Suggest the salon get involved in competition. These have been and are challenging times in our industry it’s my belief that by staying current being professional offering great service being excited and passionate about what you do sharing that excitement with your clients thats a key to being a success.

We wear many hats and great deal is expected of us. Focus on what you are good at and passionate about don’t try and spread your self to thin as i have said the salon is a team so if your great at women’s hair love colouring and putting hair up stick to that.  Specialise in that let others do mens hair or kids for example. Everyone should find their niche in the salon this makes the salon whole. Remember you multi task you have to look great. you are highly skilled. You offer great service and what you charge or the salon charges is reflective of that. Valued added is not discounting to stay busy it’s giving exceptional value for money.

Look at all the skills you have? the tools you use! the power you have to make change happen!

Remember as a stylist you are the product it’s all the clients you do and retain that keeps the salon going and pays all those running costs. The receptionist. The trainee pays your wages. But it’s a team event you are a big part of that team. How ever busy you are how ever good you are don’t let EGO get the better of you don’t start thinking you are better than those around you .Very dangerous no one is indispensable.

The stylist. The Hairdressers. The true professional hard working committed passionate. key to the successor every salon and business.

Remember you. We are all part of that machine that is the hair industry. The part we all play as team members makes the salon run and work for us all.  Keep your standards high challenge your self be and inspiration to those around you.

Mike B2MR:

 

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Demi lotion hair colour or just another dye?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What is Demi colour? What role does it play? How does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour? Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour  offering tone on tone deposit it will generally last about 6 weeks. It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. Ideal for tone on tone colouring to create depth and shine. Ideal for use when taking lighter hair darker and no lift is required. Not wanting to introduce un-wanted underlying pigment.

Some of these could be Ammonia free some organic or herbal, the product i used was professional colour with a low ammonia of around 0.3 to 1.2% so very low the  high lift colours had 2% ammonia so again very low.

Remember when going darker you only need tone on tone deposit you don’t need lift and unwanted warmth!

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. 10 Vol peroxide is not a substitute as it does lift the hair within the natural level an example of this would be at a natural level 6 10 volume formulation would expose the warmth at that level [red orange]

 How does it work It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Note: Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products. The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed .The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? You must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! They also  can have very high levels of alkaline although ammonia free!

Formulation:  For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this.

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. the goal being to introduce some colour with subtle shade deposit not permanent with root or re growth issues!

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose. Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

Maybe suggest introducing some low light shades to work with the the grey hair subtle tones to add depth tone and shine. If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. In closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

It os possible to have really nice shades and tones and work with the Grey as the above shows having moved away from a solid colour. It’s now low lighted and high lighted with both High lift blonde tones and a Demi formulation for despot only tones!

Mike B2MR

 

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Perfect Blonde Hair colour for spring


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

How do you get a perfect balanced natural look blonde hair cloud that does not look dyed?

How does one attain a perfect level of lift to reach a natural looking blonde hair colour level. As discussed many time before in previous articles one has to consider lift deposit and the natural level of the hair to start with. I am writing this as a response to a search on the topic. The raised question was. To get from natural level 7 to 9? This would be a perfect level to reach and target colour attainable. Remember understanding colour how it works. How to neutralise or utilise those pigments you will expose in the lifting process requires that you consult and trust the colour wheel.

When lifting from a natural level 7 the pigment exposed with be as follows.

*7 expect Orange undertone:

*8 expect Orange/Yellow undertone:

*9 desired 9 expect Yellow:

My suggestion would be to use a high lift Blonde to reach this level of lift. It is possible to get the right level of lift without bleach!

High lift Blonde will give up to 4 levels of lift so 7 to 9 is perfect to expect target colour and shade.

I would suggest using either High lift 100A [ash] or 100V[violet] both of these will control pigment exposed.

For an ultimate Blonde here is a formulation that frankly rocks.

10 grams 100A, 10 grams 100V,  10 grams100B. 10 grams 100[clear] + 80 grams of 40 volume peroxide.  Remember 30 grams is = to 1 0z

You can change the mixing ratio as the above is a lot of product for short hair.

Mixing the different shades will give you more pigment to control the the pigment exposed whilst lifting.the 100 in most colour line sis a clear and gives you a little extra lift. Remember with most High lift products the amount of developer is increased  to a mixing ratio of i part colour to 2 parts developer [always follow direction of given product] development time is key here 50 minutes.this being  30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit.

Either of the suggested formulations will work giving a really nice level9 Blonde but always consider.

*1 previously coloured hair will respond differently.

*2 you cannot lift colour with colour. So if previously coloured High lift formulation will not lift out old colour.

*3 If in doubt and thinking of home colour or dye have a professional consultation follow directions. be safe.

I hope this is useful to all those want to be blondes out there! Mike B2MR

 

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Violet base hair colour


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As I post my blogs and decide on topic’s or articles. I always take a look at what is being searched for to see if it’s an issue I can write about . Violet hair dye and or Hair colour keep coming up!

One such topic is Violet in hair colour! Such a cool topic! It’s required to create a cool natural looking bleached Blonde. It’s Required to control unwanted yellow undertones!

When thinking about violet as a colour or tone. We need to this question are we thinking Violet tone in controlled reds.Those shades of cool reds. Those oh so cool shades and tones we see much of these days.Those blue reds, red mauves. Or are we thinking about. The role Violet plays in the hair dye and colouring process? Violet as a shade or tone plays a much bigger part in hair colouring than one might think. But in many cases it’s a behind the scene role in the colour process. Key to successfully getting the shade you require is using an choosing the correct toner.

           High lift Blonde series: in some colour lines is also a toner

Firstly with our natural or N series or natural series violet shades and tones will always play a key role depending on the level you are working on and what your target colour is. As always to understand this we have to either look at the colour wheel or a chart. This cant indicates the Violet and indeed blue violet based colours and toners are required when addressing pale yellow through to shades of yellow orange.

With the chart i have attached one can see very clearly where and at what level Violet comes into play from the numbers system on the left hand side we can see it’s plays a very big role in levels of hair form 8 to 10.

Maybe your asking what role does it play?  All hair colour is a balance of our primary colours . RED. YELLOW. BLUE. When blended together at any given level you will alway get a perfect natural shade  balance at that given level. A natural level 8 will not be to warm or gold or to ash! Even when doing Hight lights or partially lifting sections, as in shot below once desired level has been reached toning with be required. To balance out the pigment exposed in the lifting process,lifting to yellow or pale yellow is an ideal base to then tone to get a natural cool blonde.

What changes this. When we lift hair with a chosen level of peroxide with lighten it  This lightening process will expose the natural pigment in the hair. At our level natural 8 as we lift it i will expose yellow Orange [see chart]  this warmth would be fine if you are trying for a warmer shade at level 8. If however you are trying to maintain a natural level 8 then the warmth exposed would have to be controlled. Remember we discussed balance well if we have exposed that warmth in our level 8. Exposing yellow and orange pigment we need to balance that off.

Yellow / Orange or  Yellow / Yellow /Red   or Y+Y+R = yellow Orange

To restore our Natural balance what do you think is required?  what is lacking in the above formulation? What will re balance us back to our Red yellow Blue?

Blue/Violet  or Blue / blue red  or B+B+R =  Blue violet.

How does this work well if you look at the two formulations : The balancing required for out natural level would be as follows Our first formulation is gold and warm it lacks any Blue . The balancing formulation replaces that Blue but also balances out the the lacking Red pigment that is dominated by the yellow in the first part.

Final  Balanced Level 8 tone  Y+Y+B+B+R+R =  Yellow Blue Red at a natural level 8 It’s all about balance. Violet Control yellow!  not ASH ! Yellow and Ash make  GREEN !

When pre lifting hair with Bleach to any level of Yellow . A violet Tone will re balance you are introducing an equal amount of Blue and Red mixed together to control and re balance the yellow exposed in the lifting process. If you assess the degree you have lifted as being slightly orange yellow then you would have  use a slightly more blue tone ! See chart above.

Violet in permanent colour or N series is normally calibrated to be the right amount of pigment for the level you are working at. But choice of Developer or Peroxide will always pay a role in this. Violet as a toner or pre lightened hair would be used when a yellow or pale yellow level of lift has been reached.

This wheel may help you as you can see Violet sits opposite the yellow telling us that it’s would be required to restore balance. Opposites re balance or neutralise the unwanted pigment exposed or created.

Formulation: Target colour = Lift. Deposit. Timing: always the equation to think about.

Ask your self  Do you want to utilise or neutralise the pigment you are going to expose. Violet plays a key roll as a controller in the Blue cool reds and even in shades as Dark a 3 N see chart above. In the toning of hair Violet plays a key role in controlling the yellow pigment exposed and giving a really nice shade of platinum Blonde. Always when toning stay with the toner as it develops to get the desired effect you are looking for . In some cases of toning if left on to long the pigment can over deposit.

Cool reds depicted by the V in above shot.  Fashion shade top row. Violet based high lift Blonde toner second in from the right second row.

The question searched was Bleaching pastel lightening powder: 

Lavender tone in bleach hair bleach powder. Does it really control pigment exposed help with lifting or is it just that colour of pale violet to give the illusion os pigment control? Hum!

Personally I think bleaching is bleaching. Toning is toning they do not happen at the same time so why would you apply at the same time ? In all my years of educating I have come across and indeed educated many products .I am still un convinced that the violet blue hue plays a useful role in the lifting process.

Surly if the toner was in the bleach powder the formulation would kill or neutralise the toner pigment.

A simple test for this is Mix up a small amount of permanent hair colour now stir in a little bleach powder. now see what happens!

Opps The bowl of colour the formula you mixed just went black and muddy! Why? The bleach powder killed the colour pigment molecules.

Have you ever had a bowl of colour and bowl of bleach on the same trolley? mixed the bleach a little maybe created a little dust.then notice dark spec’s on the surface of the colour formula! yes thats the bleach killing pigment! be careful. It can happen.

Most powder bleach is designed. Not to make dust ‘ie’ Be heavy enough not to cloud up when being mixed. so we don’t breath it in! health and safety at it’s best.It’s designed not to smell . It’s designed to appeal and suggest it’s gentle and controlling whilst lifting out the hair’s natural pigment. All good stuff. But the lavender tone does very little to control pigment as it lightens the hair lifting the pigment through it’s various levels.

Below list of chemicals found in hair bleach the blue and violet are just for feel good factor. Once the hair has been lifted we then chose the required toner. To address the pigment we have exposed in the lifting process. Some bleaches even have!!

Examples: Mixes to a smooth paste, easy monitoring of lightening action, white powder formula, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and economical application costs. Hydrolysed  wheat protien could be seen as an added alkaline opening the cuticle even more not that healthy but sounds very natural!

Another description:

Powder Bleach 500g, a premium bleaching powder Discover a new level of lightening performance with Blonde Expert Premium Bleaching Powder with Micro Active Technology, Delivers at least 8 levels of lift, even on a base 1, creamy consistency makes it simple to apply, rich conditioning formula leaves hair glossy and healthy-looking, this is a dust-free powder.

Finally:

Dust Free Bleach 450g. Available in Blue or White. Available in singles or twin packs please use the drop down box to choose. Back to the blue or violet what does it do what it’s role !!!!!  Here is a generic list of whats in a product and directions. Dust free bleach powder with added violet tone for extra pigment control  do not use on scalp above 20 volume peroxide Dust free very gentle will lift 7 to 8 shades max 1 hour depending on developer used.

Ingredients:

potassium persulfate, sodium siicate ,ammonium persulfate,solanum,ethyexyl pelargonate.sodium sterate, then gum rice and potato starch leaf extract  the stach is what we mix to give us a workable paste.

All sounds very clear when you read it like this ! right  the key know how your product performs use it with care. Do not only trust what they claim or the rep tells you ! question re search!

Mike B2MR

I hope this answers some questions if not feel free to post questions . Mike B2MR
 

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