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Category Archives: Hair structure and Ph chart

Health or wealth in your salon


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR


Health or wealth: 

As mentioned we are living through some very challenging economic times. Business models that work no longer seem to.There are no guarantee’s when it comes to customer loyalty. With this comes worries about revenue daily and weekly takings.  Products and techniques come and go Perming, Henna, Highlights, Lowlights,Ombre. All have taken there place in the salon hall of fame for both looks and indeed for profitability. 

Now we have a new challenge facing us! The chemistry of our products is changing at a rapid pace some of the manufacture are less than transparent about how these products work and any possible side effects. Frankly this is worrying and we as professional have to ask more question and be either less trusting  or hold the manufacture to account. The chemistry in many cases of our hair colour has changed Ammonia got gets a bad warp it seems an Alkaline derived from grain has a more natural quality to it so it must be safer and healthier! You decided MEA come from the ethanol family.

Back to the profit the revenue.The services that are great money makers. The safety of the chemicals in the Keratin products [relaxers] our ability to trust the manufacturers of these products. Follow the money…so many stylists see only the quick return the fast cash made from these services, ignoring the cancer, COPD and asthma dangers to ourselves and our clients. In some cases if not the product it self. It’s the reaction caused when high heat is applied and fumes are given off.  Formaldehyde. Aldehydes produce toxic fumes in our salon workspace.  Will we be seeing more and more cases of serious breathing issues and potentially even worse side effects and health issues.

What is it going to take for salon owners and stylist to sit up do some home work ask some key questions about these products.

Greed is winning out over the safety and health issue! What will happen to our industry when the inevitable legal actions start by anyone who has side effects contracted from being around these fumes? We need to wake ourselves and each other up to the very real dangers of these product do your own research read some of the true facts. Don’t trust me i’m just a messenger but wealth is no replacement for health! The manufactures need to be more honest and we stylist have to demand more of them. Ignorance is not an excuse when it comes to health and safety.

Here are some links below and some food for thought.  But hey please do your own home work!

Lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products: They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in an effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations. Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Warning flags:

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons. The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin. How do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application. I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a Curl interrupted smoothing system. How does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde. The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health. or so it’s claimed .just yesterday i was sent copy of lab report showing high levels of formaldehyde present in products claiming to be safe. The very high het required plays a key roll in the production of the harmful fumes.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5. This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray. The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle? The keratin is manufactured.  

Relaxers,Straitners, Keratin, Blow out: Sharing a health warning

Over the past week I have written reviews and posted information on the new Keratin hair products designed to relax De frizz promote a healthy look promoted as a system that last up to three months without any damage and side effects.

Much of what i read and re-searched was very exciting but as with all products and claims of the new wonder product did it have side effects. The one thing that did keep coming up as a warning light was initially with the Brazilian Blow out and Formaldehyde the problem being as the heat with the hot iron is applied the fumes can be dangerous. Question raised have and were met with denial in many quarters sadly fears have come to be true as yet only in Canada but a red light is a red light. Please if using these products take care follow all direction protect your self and your client.

Warning Oct. 7, 2010

Brazilian Blowout Solution Contains Formaldehyde

The Issue:

Health Canada is warning Canadians that Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California has been found to contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Brazilian Blowout hair smoothing treatment is known to be available at salons across Canada.

Health Canada has received complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with use of the product.

Testing conducted by Health Canada found that the Brazilian Blowout Solution contains 12% formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is permitted in cosmetics at less than 0.2% when used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known irritant, sensitizer, and is linked to cancer in humans when inhaled chronically over a long period of time. Health Canada believes that the reactions are being caused by formaldehyde becoming aerosolized during the blow drying and flat ironing stages of the treatment. Any procedure containing formaldehyde above the allowable limits places clients and stylists at increased risk.

Who is Affected:

Consumers receiving hair smoothing treatments using Brazilian Blowout, and stylists performing the treatment may experience reactions of burning eyes, nose, throat, and breathing troubles.

What Consumers Should Do:

Consumers who have had adverse reactions to Brazilian Blowout treatments are advised to seek medical attention. There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.

Stylists who use Brazilian Blowout treatments should immediately stop using the affected product.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be reported to Health Canada using a form available on Health Canada’s website.

Consumers and health professionals can contact Consumer Product Safety toll free at 1-866-662-0666.

* Health Canada, Oct. 7, 2010. is the look worth the risk?

Moving on we now have companies rebranding and so re packaging with new formulation claims ALDEHYDES are the term used. are they safe ? what happens when exposed to high heat? In the end you the stylist have to decide is it worth risking?

What is an Aldehyde? It’s the new kid on the block in keratin relaxers. Formaldehyde without the form!!!!!

Aldehyde is now found in many products ingredient listings instead of formaldehyde. Could it be it is derived from a natural source? maybe in the same way as we take Ammonia free as being better because MEA is derived from a natural source. It’s classed as natural herbal organic and so we are lead to believe safer and so Ok! when the fermentation takes place it makes ethanol. A grain Alcohol derivative the alkaline required for the process.

Aldehydes when heated with a flat iron to a heat of 450 degrees in the keratin process produce a gas guess what it’s called? No prizes folks but it’s bad stuff and can be carcinogen!

all good stuff i think worth knowing. I write so much on the topic of questioning product and the difference between what we are told an what is withheld. we have to stay current on all these products as they change and become re invented. . Mike very useful link

http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/


As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

A special thanks for input and sharing to Pamela Decharo and Sal:

http://www.businessinsurance.com/article/20120108/NEWS05/301089989#


   

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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
 

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Hair structure.The science the chemistry.


 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                         Understanding hair structure:

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much to understanding. How the hair structure works. What role it plays is key to  successful colouring. In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.or any chemical process we apply.We also have to keep up with the changing chemistry of the products we use.We have to understand how they react on the hair. What is the chemistry in that tube of colour pigment or that relaxer.Is it safe can i trust it! Blind faith or trusting the sales rep is not enough!

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.

Imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle.

Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability.The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength.When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex. To do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. in it’s natural state healthy hair has a ph of around 5.5. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

More recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? You decide! They all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline. Personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ).4% up to2%.

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon based chemistry.Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH  of around 5.5.

The same applies when relaxing hair much talk and discussion about Keratin based products. Along with the relaxers comes the issues of chemistry disclosed and reactions caused. major discussions on Formaldehyde gas or vapours  being produced and now the new safer term Aldehydes watch out for both.

see past topic: http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/02/29/what-is-an-aldehyde-you-need-to-know/

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. When the hair is wet it is quite fragile as we dry the hair the keratin starts to harden and becomes stronger. We also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services. Keratin as i have said is another well marketed product. Found naturally in the hair. By definition when added to products it must be good healthy natural! Most hair products that have Keratin in them may well be source or derived from. Animal. Vegetable or mineral. All being natural organic. Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use they can make the hair slightly brittle Keratinisation. Given the cost restrictions and the hydrolisation process for human hair keratin extraction most companies opt for the cheaper sources Although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500}   The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair}

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

picture above: healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

Mike B2MR:


 

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Choosing a colour line for your salon.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Choosing: The right colour line for your Salon: How  would you go about it?

What is the right product for you? How do you get all the answer to make an informed choice or decision! With so many products on the market so many manufacturers how on earth do you decide what company what product to chose? This is a big decision and a huge out lay for any salon so you have to get it right.

Do you make a list? If so where do you start?

* Cost.

*Quality.

*Education support and training.

*Ammonia free.

*Herbal or organic.

*Reputation.

*Staff interest or approval.

*best deal at the time.

All quite valid points and all have merit to some degree. With so many manufactures all trying for the same market as wholesale or as distributor the profit and returns are very good. The goal of any distributor is to get the colour line they represent in to your salon. Most distributors will carry more than one colour line. They work every closely with the manufactures that they represent. Many work on the premiss that if they can get their colour line into your salon then the wet line and retail sales should follow. Incentives are offered such as free or reduced price back bar or display stands.maybe even some stylist products. all sounds really good. If you have never negotiated these point now you can!

Back to the question: How do you chose?

The above list may help make your own. I do think that the staff have to be onboard with this and commit to any truing that may be required. Do not go for a new colour line without any training. Poor results will follow. Collaboration between management and staff is essential.

I would suggest have a few companies put on demonstration nights to test the product and ask any valid question.Do distributors and manufactures do this yes they do they have trained educators to do this and work with the distributor. If they don’t then they are not worth bothering with! If you already use a colour line but are looking to change this is usually because the staff are having issues with the product. Or a brand new product has come onto the market and it’s the next got to have thing! New is good but sometimes new comes with teething issues so sit back and wait awhile!

Fact: When staff want change due to product issues 9 times out of 10 it’s not the product! True it’s so easy to blame a tube of colour when things go wrong normally one of the following.

* Poor deposit.

* Fading.

* Reds that don’t hold.

*N series that cannot control warmth.

* Lack of general warmth control.

*Poor quality high lift shades. [normally relating when trying to go from level 6 to 10!] Da!!!  not possible asking to lift to many levels not enough pigment control!

* Not enough choice of shades.

* Want Ammonia free.

Most sales rep’s are trained to ask questions prior to starting to sell you a new colour line. They know how to draw the weaknesses of the colour line you use out. All colour line shave their strengths and their weaknesses. But if you and your staff are educated properly and use the  product correctly these issues can be dealt with. All of the list above have nothing to do with the product! Do you know what it’s to do with? Poor consultation.Poor assessment. Bad formulation. In other word the stylist or technician. Laziness. Poor training. or just good old not caring.

Dose quality play a part? Yes supported  by re search and investment.

Of course it does. Do you get what you pay for! for the most part yes. Do they differ that much. Yes they do. Another list!

*Cream colour or oil based.

* Direct dye or none direct. partially or fully developed colour molecules.

* Organic or herbal. or other. Big issue this come shown to some technical understanding on chemistry.

*Ammonia Free. If yes then what drives the colour?  need to know.

* Full range Permanent semi demi.options to colour balance.

* Is the N series calibrated to deal with warmth exposed at any given level?

Once you have researched and got your list of questions together now you can invite the different company representatives  to come in do a demonstration and answer your questions. I do not promote individual colour lines or products If someone were to offer me a job as an educator then i might. Do i have favourites yes1 Would I share this with you if asked Yes! But only in one on one e-mail as response to a question.

The quality of products changes constantly new ones come and go. A few of the manufactures are committed to our industry and to supporting stylist and education for some it’s just business in the salon or over the counter. My advise would be research look for the ones offering the best support education and training. If you do this you don;t have to change colour lines for any of the reason’s above.Why because your using the best an dour staff have the very best training and support.

One last thing: 

Some colour lines may seem cheap larger tubes mixing ratios are very important is it mix 1 part colour to 1 1/2 developer or 2 parts colour 1 part developer  and the more pigment needed for a formulation normally indicates poorer quality of pigment in the tube. Salon waste is also very expensive measure colour weigh it keep good records eye balling it is wasteful and un professional.

Mike B2MR

 

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Home based successful hair salon business


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

I think that it might be time to share a journey taken by myself into building and establishing a home based hairdressing business. Without any advertising fully booked successful in one year lets call it 0 to 50 that was the turn over year one.

My Journey:

At the time I was working as an educator and platform artist for a large North American hair product and hair colour company.Whilst really enjoying the shows.The travel.The events it had it’s down time and just doing salon hair colour education update was not challenging enough. I decided to set up a salon at home to fill in the down time and keep doing hair.This would be a small one man business built using my skills creativity and knowledge. My mandate would be to offer the highest standard of. Hair colouring. Colour correction, and razor cutting.

I would be using the skills and knowledge that educations had provided me with. My goal and vision was  to build up a strong clientele a loyal following. Built up on recommendation word of mouth. No advertising very defined boundaries and work ethics and working hours. I will cover boundaries, working hours and indeed charges as we move on.

Have a business model a Vision:

This business model was not conceived on a whim it was built on experience gained over many years in the Hairdressing industry. Ask your selves this question. Why do we spend so much, time, money and energy looking for. New clients.Promoting the salon generally searching for that quick fix of success. Those big fully booked pay out days? When all the success we could ever want is right at our fingers tips.

What is this secret there is not one common sense!

Here are some easy tips that work and we will re visit and cover in some depth.

*High Standard of service.

*Honest consultation.

*Friendly but professional attitude.

*Skilled and knowledgeable.

*Affordable pricing.

*Regular hours.

*No waiting.

*Trust and defined Boundaries-house /salon rules.

*Very personal one on one service. keeping up to date client records history formulations.

*Product knowledge

See not a huge list:

The keys to being very successful with a business that builds and maintains it self. keep it simple so lets go thorough the list in some depth.

To start this business i had to draw on my past experience with hair salons. Having managed a hair salon in Central London experienced ownership i had a good idea about business set up.

Experience of working with salons in Ontario, Vancouver and on Vancouver Island also helped me set up this small business. Contacts and relationships made with sales representatives also helps. Yes reps can be your friend.

When staring a business: It is very important to get some advise from certain bodies.

*Bank business account

*Accountant

* Distributor

* check into Licenses, registration that me be required.

* keep clear records,invoices and receipts.

High standards of service:

What does this mean to me. It’s being attentive. It’s being welcoming. Its the atmosphere.The scene you set and create. This was me projecting me. Who I am. How I work. I would think of my salon as my space, as my play room, my sand box.

Service:

This is being. Attentive. Caring. Willingness to listen. To be honest. Ask the right question. Make your client feel at easy comfortable. This is so important it sets the scene for open and honest discussion that all important consultation.

I would also take this time whilst getting them settled to explain how I work and why. Give a brief history of my self and career my belief and mandate.

Time to shine:

This is a good time to show how knowledgeable you are and also show a little authority on the subject matter. That being hair and colouring. Of course answer any general questions that may arise. It is also a good time and way to assess the client. To get a feel for who they are. What their expectation might be and so how demanding they may be. We will touch more on this.

This moves nicely on to Honest Consultation.

This is such an important time to have the art of conversation and use and asses so much. The key is to be frank and honest about  the clients goals expectation. It is this time that you get to ask questions get a history of past services.

It is your time to assess the condition the look. You start to get an idea of what might or might not be possible. Remember the art of the consultation is to get your client to open up not just about past hair colour and style. But  you can also lead the conversation asking the questions to get the client to open up. Instead of. What do you want? How do you feel about? What would you like to see? In a perfect world. How do you see you style and colour? Remember. Honesty on your part as the stylist is the key.

Normally when the colour mistakes are apparent the truth is impossible to ignore. The poor client is so embarrassed upset and apologetic.  So much so, that one really wants to help and fix this problem if at all  possible.This would in some cases be correction.

Client honesty:

The client usually admits that it was a money issue a crazy moment or a few drinks with that got out of hand with a friend it seemed like a good idea at the time! found an old box under the vanity and thought it would be a great time at 3 in the morning to “streak” their hair. I don’t have any issues helping these clients for me the challenge is correcting it the reward is success a happy client she made an honest mistake at home and now seeks professional help a humbling experience in it’s self.

Usually they have learned from the mistake  after all we all make mistakes first time one feels sorry for them repeat offenders well they are on their own, most however are more than willing to go through the steps to fix the situation.

Then there are the liars. or mistruth tellers!

I know this is harsh, but usually when you ask someone a direct question and they knowingly misinform you, that’s a lie.  As a stylist how can we make an informed decision to fix something when blatantly given the wrong information. In most cases they have been deceived by marketing adverts and promotion that suggest an easy to use instant make over in a box trouble is these kits cannot cover and address every hair situation or scenario it can be complicated! from a stylist point of view we need to know the truth in order to perform the right service. This is not possible when a client make a choices not to give all the information or answer question honestly.

 Here is an example of a normal client consultation:

A client is looking for some sort of chemical service, not always a major change. let’s say going lighter. We will take a close look at the hair during the consultation and figure out what we need to do to get as close to the desired result without damaging the hair.  It is at this time when we’ll ask the client their past history.

whilst at the same time looking and feeling for indications of damage. If we see any sort of banding, we know some sort chemical affected the hair. It’s a pretty simple fact, hair grows approximately 1/2 inch a month. If there is a any sort of line of demarcation. We know there was something “done” to the hair and we can tell when it happened by how far it is away from the scalp.  When we ask the client why this band exists, they can’t give a reason. When we’d tell them that something had to be put in their hair to create this band they will not admit to anything. To be fair with so many over the counter products these days misleading the consumer it is possible that they were unaware the product used would cause this issue. In some cases one would repeatedly ask the question and they’ll repeatedly plead their innocence/ignorance. Stale mate helps no one!

The main thing not to forget is why the client is sitting in front of you.What can you do for her! The client, service, consultation, listening, honesty, humility, staff training and continued Education updates for all staff.

In some cases after a consultation it is ok to suggest that giving the hair a break from chemical service is the only way forward. If they will not commit to this. Then take my advise stop!

If a clients has hair that is really badly done. Over processed damaged beyond help. Unless they want to listen to you take your advise. If you don’t feel that you can improve on this. If it will not be an advert for you.Then why would you get involved it’s ok to say No!

If it’s is not going to be a good advert for you. Not going to be representative of your talent and ability. Why get involved?

Consider this:

Badly done over processed hair. As soon as you agree to fix it you are taking responsibility for all that has been done in the past! Consider is it worth it! If you decide to take this on them make them sign a client waive release form.

As a stylist consider are you fixing this. Because you can or do you have something to prove is this. I can do! Or EGO driven. For me having boundaries being professional is being able to say No it’s Ok it’s honest it’s real it’s professional!

Friendly welcoming but professional:

Is this possible you may ask your self? Yes it is, it’s the key to success. For it makes your client feel special wanted important. Now you don’t have to be all gushy nor false. It’s more about keeping a conversation real and about them.

That being said sharing some of your own life is also ok. Just not that. Did you have a nice week end are you going on Holiday stuff!!!

It’s all about the three things to remember about your clients. People. Places. Things. listen to what they tell you take it in remember key things work life family it show you care and do listen.

Keeping it professional:

That is giving sound advise not bowing to silly demands those boundaries established are still key.

For example when they re approach the subject of cutting their husbands hair by stroking your ego saying how good you are. Thank them remind them that you don’t do guys hair. but say nice try though! I would always say i don’t enjoy male company however nice they are!

Remember key points:

keep good records when was last visit. last hair style the look, ultimate goal. If in doubt keep notes review before they arrive.

Its ok still shows you care. You are building trust. The three R rule works very well when building these trusting relationships.

                            “Reputation.Recommendation.Retention”



Mike B2MR

 

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Misinformation Hair colour product knowledge


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

It is my goal to create a platform that over time will become a place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

How confusing is it for both stylist and the consumer when you can go on line for advise and sound information and you get material such as below. quite shocking!

What is written in the heavy print is my view of course only my view!! However I found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material in the public domaine.

Always research don’t trust all that you read as being correct knowledge is power  a little knowledge is dangerous! Stay informed current up to date have high standards and expect nothing less from those around you!

Lets take a look:

I have written my response in heavy print:

TYPES OF HAIR COLOUR

Permanent Colour:

Permanent colour gives you 100% complete coverage. Most permanent color uses peroxide (10 to 40 vol.) and ammonia. The downside is regrowth of new hair – it is a different shade and will leave a line of “demarcation”, or regrowth.

Most permanent hair colour uses 10 to 20 volume peroxide 40 vol would only be used for high lift blonde formulations and in maybe an extreme case! In most cases 40 vol is not recommended for scalp application. this type of application requires colour balancing unless first application. Issues with excess warmth will occur using 40 vol developer! 

Not all colour is driven by Ammonia many options available always find out what the alkaline is in your colour!

Semi-Permanent Colour:

Colour usually contains some ammonia and uses a developer of 10 to 20 vol.

Although it normally contains something to slightly open the Cuticle it does not have Ammonia nor does it have Peroxide much less 10 to 20 vol.

Demi-Permanent Colour:

Uses peroxide in low vols. (under 10 vol.). Many have no ammonia and leave little damage. When the color fades, it does gradually so it leaves no line of demarcation.

Normally uses around 5vol for the oxidation of the colour molecule may have low amount of ammonia or some other substance to open the cuticle for slightly deeper deposit. long term use of this formulation will result in build up and possible re growth line slow fading, ideal for Grey coverage with out going permanent

Semi-Temporary Colour:

These will last a short time (1-4 weeks). The usually incur no damage to the hair. You can expect about 40-60% gray coverage.

A direct dye/stain lies on the surface of the hair very little deposit so fades as washed whilst will blend Grey hair  some types more than others will not give full deposit will build up over time, they s sometimes have an alkaline in them to enable a little deposit.

Temporary/ Colour Rinse:

Colour lasts from one shampoo to the next and is deposited on the outside of the hair shaft.

As with a Semi permanent these can and do vary in their chemistry and how long they last depend on amount of washing and porosity of the hairthey can cause staining issues

Levels of Hair Color:

1=Black 2= Dark Brown 
3=Dark Brown
 4=Brown
 5=Medium Brown
 6=Light Brown
7=Dark Blonde
8=Light Blonde
9=Very Light Blonde
10=Light Platium Blond:

A standard International colour shade chart:

1black                      1/0

3Dark Brown             3/0

4 Medium Brown       4/0

5 light Brown             5/0

6 Dark Blonde            6/0

7 Medium Blonde       7/0

8 Light Blonde            8/0

9 Clear Blonde            9/0

10Extra light Blonde   10/0

COLOURED HAIR CARE TIPS

Coloured and treated hair needs extra special care to keep it in good condition.

Wear hats, scarves or products with sunscreens when in the sun, to help protect against color fade and the drying effects of the sun. Leave in conditioners generally contain sunscreens to protect against color fade. Rough shampooing can strip color or dry out hair, so shampoo gently with a shampoo specially created for colored/treated hair. Condition regularly with an intensive conditioner to restore vital moisture and luster to colored/treated hair.

SHAMPOO COLOUR ENHANCERS:

Use colour enhancing conditioners as color grows out to help blend root areas.

Be wary of these colour enhancing products they stain and can effect the hair for future colouring processes :

Do not wrap your wet hair in a towel turban after a shower. The added friction can knot and damage vulnerable wet hair. Instead, carefully blot hair dry.

Don’t brush hair when wet. Comb with a wide-tooth comb, working tangles out as you move from the end towards the scalp.

Don’t overdry. When you blow dry, dry the hair until it is almost but not completely, dry. Leave some moisture in to prevent static.

Well what is over dry? leaving hair damp will make it loose style shape  Hot ceramic irons take care of all moisture just use a blow dry heat protector don’t leave it damp!

Use care when styling. When using styling appliances, use thermal protector for maximum protection. Avoid aggressive manipulation of the hair.

Well this contradicts the about don’t over dry

Use hairspray or spritz with moisturizers and sunscreens to finish the hair. These products will provide continual protection throughout the day.

Personal choice some with silicone will tend to make hair limp

Don’t spray lightening agents or put lemon juice in your hair.

Yippee one to agree with

Support your style with a perm. Just because you have color treated hair doesn’t mean you can’t have a perm. In fact, a perm specially formulated for color treated hair can add wonderful body, fullness and texture to complement your color.

Well who has perms these days colouring and perming is double processing will damage dry out cause colour to fade:

What is written in the heavy print is my view i found this information in this article miss leading and quite scary to think it’s posted as informative educational material. Please please do lots of research when looking for information and advise keep looking until you find articles that are all giving the same advise and information.

Thanks MikeB2MR

 

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Alkalinity and Ph. The process of hair colouring.


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         

As Hairdressers when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in. Spend some time reading the technical manual in the colour chart know and trust your product.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the same in Semi or Demi colour but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an alkaline it can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. 

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research! I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

                                       review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart: When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss, the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

                               Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

Ok a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour. Now we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful
MikeB2MR
 

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