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Category Archives: Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades

Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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A hair colour disaster and fix.


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Here we are looking at a colour correction scenario:

*What is the best way to share with you? To look at real issues!

*How do we put all of this new found information into practice. By solving issues.

*How do we apply this knowledge in a practical sense? Does it really work. By thinking through the issue panning!

By sharing some real life salon colour stories with you.

We can cover many of the issues that you can expect and do come across daily with your clients. [ please note names of clients and stylists changed events situation are based on real events] Permission to publish and relay these cases have been sought and given.

In all my years as an educator I have been fortunate and have had the pleasure to be invited into many salons. These are some cases that arose whilst spending time in any given salon or in my own career as a stylist none are made up. In most cases of salon colour mistakes the error are caused buy the stylist making poor choice for applications.

Lets get on our colour case:

Alison came into the salon. She had long hair mid way down her back. Her goal going lighter maybe some nice caramel toffee low lights. She had solid colour built up with a number of applications over number of visits.

Sounds easy Right?

Firstly Alison needed to have a consultation with Paul her stylist. Discuss her goal and optimum colour target. Both need to be honest about past colour history. Her natural level would be around level 5. The colour that had been used for previous colours was a rich dark brown around level 4. In this instance Demi colour formulation for tone on tone deposit only! Long term build up would be a issues. This came out in the consultation process.

Lots of pigment would have built up over time and application this needs to be lifted and  underlying pigment exposed. With the build up of darker shade in the mid lengths and ends  the lifting process would take some time. Staring from the ends and working towards the scalp. It was discussed that the root will lift Blonde very quickly. So the approach would be to use a bleach formulation with be applied to the ends and mid section first. The roots would be left until a desired level was attained as they would lift very quickly. The Prolonged use of the dark brown colour over a long term would cause build up of colour mid length’s and ends.

Alison should have been given a strand test. She did ask for strand test Paul her stylist said’  That will not be required [first mistake and short cut] . Is this that hard?  Remove a small amount of hair from the nape area and have it coloured or lifted prior to full head application. It’s lazy .It’s un professional it’s taking short cuts!

This would have required especially as. Bleaching out old pigment and applying the formulation from the ends up through mid length and finally to the root would create colour bars of pigment also taking into consideration the weave of the highlights.Once lifted evenly to a desired workable tone. Apply toner to even out to desired shade and tone.

Why so work end sot roots you may ask? The ends will lift the slowest and will dictate the end result the mid lengths although coloured less still holding lots pigment. This pigment exposed in the lifting process will tend to be very warm copper or orange. This will need toning to neutralise the unwanted warmth.

After her consultation with Paul. Alison is ready to get her new caramel low lights done

                    pre having low lights done coloured level 4

Above: Is picture of the hair prior to the colouring.

As stated this colour was always done as deposit only. No lift when going tone on tone or darker unless you want to add or increase warmth you do not need lifting levels of hydrogen peroxide. Any build up of colour is just layers of dark pigment. As stated a rich dark brown it matches her skin colour and hazel eyes. Many salons over book they don’t allow the time or put in the effort to do a job correctly.When things go wrong they may make excuses about the product, may pretend it looks great. It’s how it was supposed to look. But it’s the client who has to be excited love this new look get what she wants and requested.

They have trusted us.Sat in the chair patiently.They asked all the right questions. They gave us time to decide on the best course of action to take. Having supposedly considered all options.

                                     After low lights

Why does this happen? What went wrong? what do you see? what do you think? Why do you think it went wrong! Paul had done the consultation asked all the right questions. But took short cuts starting with refusing the need for a strand test. By not thinking the process through working in from the ends to the mid length finally to the roots. He rushed and failed. He did not allow enough time for the different levels of lift to be addressed.

Remember the request was for low lights. Caramel toffee. Remember suggested strand test. Consultation .Remember if he had lifted the hair from ends in. Allowing for the fact that the mid lengths may throw orange and roots would lift really quickly. All would have been well, time consuming but it’s never race!

Lets review. Firstly I was shocked. Sad. Appalled by this poor quality job. Caused by taking short cuts with very little thought given to the process or out come! A rush job. Firstly the the blonde on the roots to eye level really does not work for her. It sucks the colour from her skin and is just a nothing dull boring shade of blonde.

The mid lengths did not lift as much as required or expected they formed a colour bar. A very bright copper orange as the dark pigment lifted out. Finally the mid lengths into the ends lifted such a little that they still look solid and dark very little lift. There is no way by just applying toner this can or could be fixed.  It was doomed to fail. This was caused by some one being lazy, applying bleach de-colouriser roots to ends and just hoping that it may all lift evenly or at least enough to colour balance it! Hoping that whatever pigments exposed could be evened out with a toner. In doing this the tones made the blonde dull had little effect on the orange and well the ends ! Hum Hoping is not good enough!! use the tools we have consult charts .work within the rules.

The strand test should have been carried out in advance of the appointment. The strand test shown and discussed with client then the process carried out correctly with a great out come. Why oh why do we allow this to happen? Why do we let our selves down . Is it lack of time?  Is it Easy money? well hardly if now you have to fix and re do! Lack caring. Paul let his client down. He let the salon down. He let himself down! Oh how does this look to the staff what message does it send Paul is the owner!!

Can this be fixed: Yes or course it can. As stylist’s when things go wrong we have to drop any attitude and put right a wrong.even more so when it in no way the fault of the client,who now has to return find more time and we have to regain that trust! drop the ego! 

To review:  The attempt at lifting evenly from roots to ends was a failure. Leaving over lightened roots mid lengths with a real orange hue and very little lift on the ends. The desired effect was for toffee caramel low lights.

                               poor colour job before shot

The picture was provided client Alison. But as you can see it really was a poor job. When seeing this many thing came to mind apart from the poor job. First though was how the blonde just did not work with either skin tone or eye colour.

My suggestion would be get rid of it ASAP! Go back to being a rich dark healthy chocolate brown.

How would you do this, well it certainly would not require any more lift just a re build of the pigment base in the over lightened section then colour balance. My suggestion would be to fill the over lightened section with a Demi formulation of either 7G or 7GC predominantly gold but with enough copper to balance with with warmth of the mid section. only apply to overly lifted area. leave for around 10 Minutes or[ follow your product directions ] remember you only need deposit formulation. Once pre filled apply target shade over the top apply liberally leave to process.

Alison waited a week to get back into see Paul. This is not acceptable it should have been corrected on the day. In some cases this may not be possible in this instance it would have been. As mentioned with the issues created a pre-fill to replace the pigment removed would give the hair depth of tone and solves any issues of fading.

Alison asked if it might be a good idea to put some pigment back in the overly blonde roots. { How did she know to ask for this? yes i advised her.} Sadly Paul still in a hurry still taking short cuts indicated this would not be required one application would be enough. Well one would be enough and look fine as she left but long term in the days and weeks ahead? It will fade.Paul applied the 4N Demi formulation directly over the top and the colour was restored to a rich solid all over Chocolate Brown.

However Paul has taken short cuts. This colour will fade he may well lose a client through what lack of service! The colour did start to fade within a week. Sheila went to a different salon Carl lost a good client.

Here is my thinking on the Fix:

In this instance if our goal is  to achieve a rich chocolate Brown. I have re introduced the missing pigment to the root area, to prevent fading and give depth of tone. However i will also need to control that warmth to get the correct depth of colour.

              look for location of orange section blue green section.

Lets look at the chemistry of a formulation.

4N has a Blue green base.

Check your colour wheel on your product ! green is made up of Blue+Yellow.

So given that we put on 7G the gold + Yellow + Red+yellow= orange

The 4N Blue + yellow +Blue= green

The out come of this formulation is the Base of the 4N will control or neutralise the warmth creating a wonderful rich chocolate brown.

As you can see from the colour wheel Orange sits across from Blue Green of the colour wheel so a perfect rich shade is possible.

Finally the after shot again provided by Alison I did not carry out this colour fix but did advise her at various stages throughout the process in return she allowed me to share the experience.

Out come

The chosen formulation controlled all warmth and left her with a rich dark brown filling in all those unwanted shades and the nasty root lift. Again this was all done with a Demi formulation for all those interested the process time is only 20 minutes so once applied  it’s a very easy way to repair poor colour issues. As a formulation it is none progressive so will not over deposit. it will last and stay rich and deep and healthy looking. Alison now has a new Stylist and is happy to be a rich dark brunette shade again. Sadly the experience has put her off trying again for a new multi tonal look.lets hope over time her new stylist gains her trust.


 

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Low lights and multi tonal shades


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low light colour: A technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades with going unduly light:

How can one create these looks?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that need for in depth consultation both parties if using a professional stylist or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project.

Their are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required. The target colour and then tones and shades being used. Again this is so dependant on starting point previous history.

We will use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde.

One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured or never processed hair. The Look tends to to work well on a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair. In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots. For the sake of this lets not go to complicated. We will presume grown out Highlights and low lights.This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is. Creating a lighter brighter look, lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very light or bright bright ends. Known as ‘Ombre technique’

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colourwould be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer. I might suggest on our pre-coloured hair using three different levels of ‘Bleach decolouriser’ fading them into each other. How? You may ask. Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions

.2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to. You may had have to use a toner to blend.

1*Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

2*Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade desired or required. If going darker you will not require a formulation to lift this will only introduce unwanted warmth! For tone on tone or darker hair deposit only use a Demi formulation.

If wanting to go lighter or richer  or for more vibrant colours some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history and choice of shades and tones. Again play with both colour or shade choice and level of peroxide. Just remember as you increase the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment or warmth you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! Yes a balancing act. Caution: Over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour! 10 volume would bring out the required pigment with out over lifting.

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair. I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice. Here is my choice and suggestion.Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play. How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

My choice would be 8A or 9A Why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time, think through both. Timing, application, formulation. Use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique. You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation. Remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area.Two different formulation on each weave. Have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results.

Mike B2MR

 

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Darker side of life! trying a darker hair colour or shade!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products, techniques

 LIGHT TO DARK shades and tone:

Can you go from blonde hair to Darker shade. Can it look good? Will it work ? yes yes yes! In many cases it can make your own natural colouring come alive. Your eyes look brighter . Your skin tone takes on a whole new look. When you want to go lighter with a little patients  it can be done without to much effort.

[See posting on going from solid to lighter tones].

If you’re are  like so many. Not blessed with natural blonde sun kissed hair or maybe your unfortunate enough to be cursed with true natural blonde! Maybe you want to tone down your hair one of the best ways to do this without walking out of the salon looking like you just put a wig on your head is to have Demi-permanent hair colour this form of colour leave the hair looking more natural the deposit offering more tone and dimension but has a translucent look to it. Another key advantage is how easy it is to lift out when you want to start going lighter or brighter.

                          The big question Should I go Darker?  Why not ?

Permanent or Demi deposit:

Permanent hair color both lifts you own hair whilst deposits color into your hair.  If your hair is lighter than your target colour there is no need to “lift” your hair  it will introduce unwanted warmth and may damage it . Demi-permanent hair color is easier on the hair but the deposit is deeper than traditional semi  permanent colour. Even with multiple shades as below if you wanted to go darker could you? The answer is yes .A Demi formulation of a level 5 or darker would give you depth and tone but with multiple shades due to the starting tonal base shades.

                                    Demarcation lines or  re-growth:

A demi-permanent color will help ease the growing out process because it doesn’t create a stark line in contrast with your natural hair color so long as the correct shade is chosen  as it fades, the lines get a little  blurred this form of colour blends and really supports the growing out process.

Transitioning:  Transition to a darker shade if you are unsure about going darker do some research maybe try on a darker wig hold some darker shades up to your face see how it works with eye colour and skin tone.

In many case a Demi colour application will last longer than a permanent hair colour due to the fact your not introducing the peroxide and thus lightening part of the colour equation to the hair, it will help the “going darker” process since  hair previously made blonde hair often times needs to be “filled.”  Basically, bleached hair is like a sponge as easily as it soaks up color it loses color.  (Keep in mind that this is also why low light’s fade more quickly the more blonde you get in your hair).

A Demi application will help to fill in the gaps so when you do choose to go darker there is something already in the hair for the color molecules to hold on to. the above is a perfect example of grown out lighter shade that could so easily go darker with a Demi application.

Should you hair be naturally light but you want to try going a shade or a few shades darker the same applies you don’t need a permanent formulation. As soon as you use a formulation to lift the hair warmth will come into play!!!

The above looks in some ways far to dark and solid but when going from light to dark the hair will tend to take the colour as a very solid look but within a couple of washes tone will start to shine through! remember hair that has been previously pre lightened will not hold colour as much as no lifted hair!

It’s all about change:

It’s an opportunity to have fun.  You can try different tones and different colors without having to worry about it lasting as long as normal hair color.  You can make your hair a “chocolate” brown or you can give it some warmth and make it a “golden brown” or even “auburn.”

Always consider where you natural level sits on a shade chart and how many shades you want to darken it by, also consider that a change in colour will effect skin tone and choice of make up!

A Demi formulation slowly fades out but constant use of this formulation can build up and create a more permanent demarcation line.

Hopefully you enjoy playing with your the darker side! of your hair, that is.  What’s color  do you wish you could achieve with your hair? Or do you like your natural color?

Its all about choice making one and living or maybe embracing the consequences!

Thanks Mike B2MR

 

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Multi toned low lights.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s .

Low Light Colour a technique of going from dark to light adding multi shades:

How can one create this look?  Well firstly I have to state it is dependent on the history of the hair that is being considered for this look. It’s back to that consultation or being honest with yourself if doing it as a home project. If you really want healthy hair soft multi tonal colour.

There are many formulations that one can explore and experiment with but one has to consider both target colour and effect required, the tone and shade being used.

Lets use a example of level 6 Natural Dark Blonde. One with previous colour history. One with virgin un coloured  or never processed hair. The Look tends to be a graduated hair cut works well on longer hair.

In the event of previously coloured hair one would expect to see light ends dark roots, for the sake of this lets not go to complicated. So we will presume grown out Highlights and low lights. This look really does create a grown out look going from darker to lighter.

This first example is creating a lighter brighter look lifted roots slightly lighter mid section very bright ends. Ombre technique.

One formulation that will take care of any unwanted shade or pigment from previous colour would be to highlight maybe slightly thicker than finer.

I would suggest using on our pre-coloured hair  three different levels of Bleach decolouriser fading them into each other. How? You may ask.

Well weave out your highlights to desired thickness having mixed three bowls of bleach.

One with 10 volume peroxide 1part powder to 2 parts peroxide normally makes good consistency but follow directions.

2nd bowl  20 volume as above mix

3rd Bowl 30 volume  as above mix

I would advise using different coloured bowls or mark each one so not to use wrong formulation.

Ready to go. Weave your streak place on foil, easy mesh, paper, what ever you use. Now paste the 10 volume formulation on the roots and as far out as you like, next paste the 20 vol formulation on the mid lengths again as far as you want. Finally 20 vol on the ends.

You have to keep an eye on this as it lifts. You may have to pull some out before your finished, but that’s ok. Once all done you have to decide on the tone that you want to blend them to.

Two thing are key to this. Don’t do the whole head. Make sure that the lift you get is even down each section and all sections have the same lift.

Think about the pigment you have exposed think about the tone you want use the colour wheel.

One can do the same with any shade  desired. If going darker you will not leave lift only a Demi formulation.

If wanting lighter or richer more vibrant some degree of lift will be required.The success of this again will be dependent on previous history.

But again play with both colour and level of peroxide. Just remember as you up the amount of lift with higher volume of peroxide the more pigment you bring out from the hair.

The skill is bringing out as much pigment as possible without removing it by over lifting! yes a balancing act. over lift and you are losing that extra bright colour you might want.

example level 6 with formulation using 20 volume peroxide will expose these pigments

*6 level red orange.

*7 orange

*8 orange yellow

If you are trying for a rich red using over 20 volume would bring out unwanted yellow pigment changing your target colour!

More options:

Now lets look at virgin hair I don’t think in this instance one would need to use bleach but again personal choice here is my choice and suggestion.

Remember we are starting of with a level 6 natural dark blonde. Things we have to consider when choosing  our formulation. What pigment will come in to play How will it effect our choice of colour.

Using the same highlighting technique as above. Lets play with both shade and lift.

So my choice would be 8A or 9A .why? Well it’s an Ash base so will control any unwanted warmth that being [ orange ] Lets use 10 volume on the roots this will lift one level but will expose warmth even with one level of lift. Mid section 20 volume two levels of lift. Ends 30 volume on the ends. Remember your timing and your formulations.

One can also as below mix high lights and low lights some lift with a bleach decolouriser, some  permanent colour,some tone on tone Demi deposit so many options and so much choice.

You could use 20. 30, 40, if you want it lighter. But more lift will bring out more orange. You can also slightly over lap each shade, because although different levels of peroxide all in the same colour camp so no banding.

Take you time think through both. Timing, application, formulation, use the tools available to you. Colour chart, colour wheel. Have some creative fun both with the cut and the colouring technique.

You too could look like a movie star with this technique that allows for stylish casual sophistication.

With this type of colour base you could easily add multi shades Reds coppers with low volume of developer. Maybe some darker shades for added dimension using only a Demi deposit formulation.

remember by adding darker shades you make the lighter shade become the streak. This adds lots texture and dimension without having to over lift the hair.

If adding red or copper one would  use a formulation on the roots with either 10 or 20 volume developer and then use a Demi application on the pre lightened area. So two different formulation on each weave.

have fun but always consider target colour and look and also the environment previous history to get the best results. Mike B2MR

 

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Home hair colouring. Is it for you?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s

HOME HAIR COLOUR.  

EXPOSED – UNPLUGGED! informative.

I have decided to post this Article my hope to cover as many aspects and topic’s as i can . As always i hope it’s useful quite a long article so much to cover! Its a variation on topic that is well covered but i think oh so very useful like the colour wheel needs warrants constant attention and re addressing.

                                                                                                                                                                                             Challenges:

One of the biggest dangers that the home consumer face when heading down to the chemist or supermarket for that perfect shade of hair colour is impulsiveness yes the powers of advertising.

Celebrities, models, fashion magazines, marketing, advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair colour.You can instantly transform your life making you look and feel better.

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases .Any home hair colouring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets not to mention in some cases long lasting damage

Is it possible to create very successful looks from a home hair colour tones and hues with reasonable success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colour technician,

With some careful planning. A list of realistic expectations with a little patience and knowledge, new shades of blonde, radiant red and chocolate brown can all be possible.

As can the funky bright fashion shades the key is as much as possible not to over process your hair with over bleaching, take the time to consider the colours you want and your expectation not just short term!

Un-Tangling the world of Home Hair Colouring:

The following tips and advise will hopefully help you navigate through a vast array of hair colours with ravishing results:  never just hold the box up to your head to see if the colour on the boxes matches!

                                        {Above over processed home Blonde kit:}

Plan your hair color strategy well. 

Prospective home hairdressers carefully evaluate your colour goals before they even consider making a product purchase maybe have a consultation with a professional colour technician. be honest with yourself about wants goals  . Be honest with stylist about all past history and colour application. A good way to do this is keep old packaging !

Every one experimenting with home hair colour especially newbies should study all of the current hair colour formula options. ask advice seek information.

Home hair color products fall into the following ranges:

 Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing colour. this includes the bright high fashion shades. some of these colours can build up of they can some times result in staining that can stay behind as colour washes out especially on porous hair.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of the cuticle and sometimes deeper deposit can be created depending on the ph of the product opening the cuticle layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations.

Continued use can result in pigment build up/staining especially on very porous hair sometimes have alkaline base to open cuticle this can create build up and staining.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits colour between cuticle and cortex. normally contain low level of peroxide and/or ammonia. or something that does the same job change the Ph open the cuticle to enable deposit.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex. Contains peroxide and ammonia.  or something else to deliver the colour molecule [eg MEA} Colour lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is re.coloured.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia. volume of peroxide dictates lift  timing essential.

Below make over shot from above 

      The colour was done with Highlights and panels using only Demi formulation tore pigment hair!

Double Process Colour – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New colour is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle. some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. explanation also applies to the high fashion bright colours.

While Temporary, Semi and Demi- Permanent hues are generally considered safe it is fair to point out there are always exceptions to every hair rule, For example in some situations, wash out tones may become permanent if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments. What does this mean exactly?

That if you apply a temporary colour to strands that are damaged and thus porous or more absorbent than normal the colour will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the colour will be ineffective. Again this explanation is true of the bright fashion shades. Build up and staining can create issues when trying to switch into new colours!

 Note:  If you are unsure how your  hair will adopt to hair colour, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair colour kits or skip the home colour exercise and contact a professional colourist. or you can at a stretch take a small sample strand from the nape area and apply some colour a strand test.

If you have a good working relationship with your stylist, consider discussing your home hair color plans in advance with them.  
Many hairdressers will be supportive of your goals if you are honest with them.

As stylists we should be professional if in this situation and give good sound advise it will come back to you in positive ways.

 Skin Tone, eye colour, Features, Age:

After you have decided on the right colour process, evaluate the best shade for your age, skin tones and other facial features. It is important that you also take into consideration your lifestyle and how much maintenance you are able to handle to keep your colour fresh and root free.

Things to consider tips to follow:

Keep in mind that hair colour can lift and lighten, match existing colours and brighten or provide depth through darker, richer hues.

Focus on colors that are soft, natural and classy.  Consider choosing shades that will slightly lighten, brighten or deepen your current  tone.

Select a shade that blends well with your current hair colour that is no more than a maximum of two shades lighter or darker than your own.  It is important to stay in close colour range to avoid a stark color   demarcation line.

Consider your age when selecting colours.  Select products and colours that are designed for your age group.  


Keep in mind that colors marketed to much younger consumers are not designed to handle Grey and may be too bright for your skin and eye tones.

Remember that after certain ages skin may take on a slight yellow tint.  Soften this look with shades that have a golden base

If you wish to cover Grey, be sure to buy a product that is specifically formulated to deal with the  Grey issue.

Some of the darker shades may intensify wrinkles or other aging signs.  To instantly peel off some years, go one or two shades lighter

Consider buying an extra hair color kit in case of unforeseen problems or if your hair is extremely long or thick you may wish to use two kits to guarantee complete coverage.

With the bright Colour fashion shades you are normally looking for shock value not something subtle having said this the rules still apply some colours will look better on you than others.

                                            Pic Avantgarde artistic Team  

The steps to Success!

Guide lines advice:

Once you have selected the hair color product and hue for you, complete the following steps:

Check the expiration date while still at the store to make sure the product is still viable.

                                               Below before shot over processed hair:

Once home, immediately examine all the contents in the box. Make sure you have everything stated on the packaging Read the instructions carefully. If anything missing, immediately return the product to where it was purchased.

As always I would suggest a skin patch test at least 48 hours before you colour.

Although you may have used hair colour products in the past, it is very important to do a patch test to protect against an unexpected allergic reaction.  products can change formulation change!
Even if you have been colouring for years, allergies can develop out of the blue and cause serious health risks if not treated immediately.

Do a strand test at least 24 hours before you take the final colour step. Although this process postpones the coloring tasks, it is important to get a good preview of how your hair will look with the selected colour. If you don’t like the results,you can abandon  the project before applying the product to your entire head. Better safe than sorry when it comes to living with unexpected colour results.

Assemble your hair colour tool kit. Gather together a plastic pick or comb, timer, an old shirt and two dark towels that you don’t mind staining. Consider adding a protective covering for the floor since some    hair colors can splatter and be messy.

Make sure you have a good pair of rubber gloves. most kit supply gloves but of poor quality may not fit as well as desired also when getting gloves check out if you want latex or not!

If you plan on repeat colouring, a box of disposable good  quality gloves is a sound investment. staining can be an issue barrier cream on  hand is a good idea. some products supply application bottles but a bowl and brush give very good coverage,

Above make over hair look rich natural happy!

Applying The Colour:

Once you are ready to actually apply the colour consider the following tips:

It is best to apply colour to hair that has not been washed for at least 24-48 hours to take advantage of the buildup of natural hair oils. these help to protect your scalp.


 If a lot of styling products are used on a regular basis, consider using a shampoo with a clarifying shampoo at least one week before using home hair colour, this will help remove any excess products layered onto the cuticle. do not use clarifying shampoo as a regular product it will lighten and fade you colour!

Pick a time when you are relaxed and will not be disturbed. Once you mix the colour, use it right away. Play some soothing or fun music that helps you stay focused on the task at hand.

Before you start, re read the instructions from beginning to end.  Make sure that you have everything required in the kit.

Follow all the instructions completely! in the order in which they are suggested.

Dispose of any leftover colour as soon as you are finished.{safely}  Once the colours have been mixed, any unused amounts should not be reused at a later date.

To avoid forehead or hairline stains, apply a light layer of Vaseline or similar product right below where the colour will be applied to contain drips or stains.  If you do see drips, wipe them up immediately with an old wet washcloth.

You start applying colour at the back of your head and work forward to make sure that the product is applied evenly and does not smear”.  Tip bad stains on skin can indicate that the ph of the colour in high [skin has a Ph 7 so bad stains suggest the colour must be very high Ph ]  tip bad stains windex on cotton wool,

Jaw clamps or salon clips are not usually provided.  If you feel you need to clip off sections that are newly coloured or hair that is waiting to be colored, invest in some metal clips to help colour in a more organized process.

First timers:

If you’ve never coloured before, carefully apply product from roots to the ends. If you have Virgin hair i would suggest applying colour to the mid lengths and ends first roots last they will lift and take the colour the quickest! if in doubt seek professional advise.

For previously coloured hair, be careful to only apply colour to new hair growth. It is important not to overlap colour be patient to allow the full development time watching the colour develop in a mirror from time to time.  It is impossible to know what the results are until the process has finished and the hair is washed and dried.know that you are changing colour and it will go through different stages as the colour develops.

If this is your first time coloring at home or you are nervous about the results, ask a friend to colour sit with you in case you miss some spots or are unsure how the colour is developing.

When the colour is finished processing shampoo out as described in the instructions.  Allowing colour to stay on longer than recommended will not achieve better results.  Hair colour is designed to stop processing at a set point and no matter how long you leave it in your hair, it will not alter the fact that the processing has finished.

If toning it will carry on depositing on porous or bleached hair if left on for prolonged period.

When to seek professional advise Hair colour:

If considering home hair colour and you fit into one of the following groups:

This type of colour change can be very tricky and  maybe a good time for consultation and  advice of a professional to be fully aware of all of your options an choices.

If you are going from Blonde / Darker or very Dark to light Blonde

If your tresses tend to pick up lots of reds or other unwanted tones.

Your hair has been chemically treated (straightened, waved) in the last 30 days.

You desire a complicated technique such as block or strap colours or multi-dimensional highlights and low-lights.

You have previously experienced allergic reactions to hair colour products.

After you have successfully walked through all the steps and have achieved the new color of your dreams, consider the fact that proper post-maintenance will help keep your strands soft and extend the life of the colour.

I hope this was helpful Mike B2MR

 

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The role of Peroxide and developers in HAIR COLOUR.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

As a follow on from the previous topic I hope that this topic answers some questions and fils in any gaps about the hair colouring process

The Ph scale tells us the working environment of the hair and helps us determine the ideal product for any given hair type. and allows us to assess the health and condition of the hair.

We also have to know the ph of the products we are using trusting that a product with no ammonia is safe not always the way forward. For all these products are an alkaline and so open the or lift the cuticle to some degree.

Please note:

Take time  to look at the chart and see where the various applications we apply sit . A demi application developer will sit at the same level as hydrogen peroxide on this chart.

Understanding the Ph environment

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle the same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products, all serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph the stronger the  product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

it is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Ok the Colour bus had a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour.

At this juncture it’s time for the bus to stop. So we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

I hope this proves helpful to some .Mike B2MR

 

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