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Category Archives: natural level 7 to 9 blonde

The hair salon the industry what do they mean to you?


 Back2myroots : 

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

                What is a hair dressing salon?:

Is it just a place to do business? Is it a hub a hive of activity? A place where like minded talented stylist get together to share there talents to gain and share experience. A place to train and be trained! A place to work your craft build a reputation be a success. It is so much more consider for a client. It’s a place of relaxation. A place to socialise palace to trust, in many cases as stylist we can and do build strong bonds of trust even friendships with our clients.
For a salon to succeed be a successful Business so many factors have to come together.

Many things to consider Location a key component. Image the very essence of the business. Goals. Vision. Staff. Products. Marketing. Innovative thinking collaboration. All of theses are key component’s for success is any one more important than another:

A point for discussion what do you think? For me it’s the team. Management and all the staff.

The Team:                    

Here is an example on the above. Who owns the salon? Who are Staff hard to tell. they all look equal they are a real team.I’m sure they have structure and mutual respect. But it’s not a dictatorship it’s not a salon class system.

I have been writing quite a few of these Blogs mainly for me a way to share and reflect, I do it seems come back to the same key themes.

Education. Knowledge. Honesty and Service. creative thinking open discussion. Personal development openness to learn. To embrace criticism and valuable feed work,collaborate be a team player . We should never stop learning or wanting too! Never think we know it all! { us hairdressers have big ego’s and it can get in the way}  Success and learning and service if you don’t like people don’t like communicating why be a hairdresser! Being honest with your self about who you are being honest with your clients really important if you want to succeed.

I read a recent article

One person had written in raising a question about his partners in a salon being more interested in platform work self promotion than being committed to the business:

                                                           {back to ego issues }

Having worked for a number of years as both an educator and platform Artist I know how much fun it can be. The rush of walking out on a stage introducing yourself your models you have and own the stage your centre of attention.

                                                       {For that brief moment}

Being an educator and platform artist can help you promote both your self and your business. This should be the reason for doing it! Yes to further your career to gain knowledge to share but don’t get sucked into thinking your really that special. Dangerous it’s not fame it’s fore filling that inner need to a platform to show off the most important things is to learn and share help develop the salon your teammates. Encourage personal development of all skills both hands on technical but also personal growth.

The big Colour Companies need us to sell promote educate their products. At the end of the the day your Salon should be your priority why? It’s yours to build to grow without the constrains dictated to you when representing a large corporate concern. Use the education experience you gain to share with your staff use your skills knowledge on your clients use the fact that you are an industry expert to your advantage. support your juniors your trainees.

Another interesting topic stylist with poor client retention key to business a stylist who is unable to build a client base is questionable. A stylist who gets no returns or recommendations from clients the salon gives them is costing the business money. 

                                                   {what would you do in this situation?}

This is time for open honest discussion with owner manager staff member: Time for honesty and truth ask the key question why do you think we are in this situation. make them take responsibility set out a plan together to improve set out a time frame for change set a date for review.
Communication is key having said that the individual has to take responsibility for their actions or lack their of, suggest in salon training nights a time to share thoughts idea’s courses education, maybe a course in service handling clients, a little attitude adjustment. Finally as an owner i would set a dead line for giving them clients, suggesting that after an agreed period a new stylist is being brought in and it will be their turn to be promoted. Harsh maybe but it’s but it’s how to move your business forward.

keys to salon success:

Choose the best products you can stay on top of new products: be informed question everything!

As new Colour lines come out try them have in salon training and Demo days.

Educate your self and your staff on the products you use then you can  share and educate your clients.
Have staff get to gather open debate creative discussion nights collaborate ion idea’s

Clients love know that your a true professional share you knowledge that Consultation your time to shine.
These shots are close up’s of hair i have coloured highlights all over colour multi shade highlights permanent semi permanent learn it all

It is my view for success surround yourself choose to work with people you like respect and can learn from Motivated talented creative honest stylist, who are also willing to learn to share to help grow the business, develop your team, work with problem solvers not makers! be the salon for training and education share and reward success with your team be that salon of solutions!

Encourage personal growth and education. stay on top of new products have in salon education events strive to be the best have the best reputation this will create a place people will want to work in clients will want to be a part of. I hope that this article will be of interest to both stylist owners managers educators and platform artist’s we are all part of a team.

                     THESE LOOKS ARE OF THE SAME MODEL NATURAL CURLY HAIR

Coloured with Red Copper tone her natural hair level is a 6 dark Blonde.

Colour used was for deposit only when going tone on tone unless we want to bring the clients own pigment out lift is not required.

Using say 10 vol may have made this even brighter but would create roots issues down the road. This up do was created to get as much height as possible without it falling down or over. In this instance two scouring pads were used like doughnuts on top of each other some hair pulled through the hole in the middle this creates the cascading hair from the top the rest is wrapped around allowing free fall providing texture and movement. Finally from the front view a very loose sexy look  with lots of height but still keeping lots of softness

As the hair falls down. Putting hair up in this manner with a firm base as a structure will not fall down.

                                                http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

                                    http://uk.linkedin.com/in/mikevallanceb2mr

Become a part of this Blog {quote} 

Hello Mike – nice blog. Way too “expert” for me the layperson/ consumer but nonetheless interesting and educational. kirsten:

(http://kirstenknaup.wordpress.com/

Next week http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ will be switching to a new look with a new .org address this will enable me to offer more material and start offering down loads on some material I hope that over time I can develop the site as a place to come to to share thoughts but also gain information that might help you develop as both a creative stylist but also on  personal and business level. best to all Mike B2MR

next week subscribe to email up dates get a free download PDF.

 

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Blonde hair colour and hair Dye


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR.

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

                 Spring perfect time to think Blonde

Wake up and smell the roses Its Spring. You can you have a natural looking Blonde hair colour Is it maintainable ? Will it damage the condition? Will it look to orange or yellow? All very good questions.

Before considering going blonder or lighter. Have a professional consultation be very careful when considering home Dye especially if you have previous colour on your hair. anything is possible with the right advise and skilled professional working with you. The perfect time to consider going blonde, having that sun kissed look whilst wishing for those long hot summer days.That hot holiday hair colour we long for to match that fun summer tan. If you feel the need have the desire to brighten up your hair style with a fun new blonde look?

It doesn’t matter how dark or light your natural hair color is or if you have dark or pale skin tone, there is always a shade of blonde hair to suit you or at least some light tones to brighten you up. Blonde is still the most popular hair color choice for most women! Of course if you have already coloured your hair then you will have to take this into consideration when thinking about a shade or discuss with your stylist whats possible. Here are some fun ideas if you want to let that inner blonde out to play for a while.

If you have shoulder length hair in a brunette tone. Skip going for over-all blonde color. Instead apply some rich caramel highlights throughout your style, focusing on the crown and where the part lands. Your textured waves combined with the rich highlights will reflect the sunlight and create an eye-catching look. This will start you on the road to blonde with out over processing.

Long hair

If your long hair is damaged or dull, purchase a good color protecting shampoo and conditioner to use before, during and after you color your hair. Treating your damaged hair from roots to ends is an important factor in maintaining colored styles. For very long hair highlights are a better form of colour than an all over application and help prevent root-re growth issues.

Finding the right shade

Before you decide on a shade of blonde. Take into consideration your skin tone and eye color. Also consider your current hair color for it certainly plays a part in choices and possible out come of the new colour you are working towards.

If you currently have bleached blonde hair, you may want to opt for a deeper, richer shade of blonde.This might require putting some pigment back into your hair if bleached very light. If your skin tone is very pale, you may want to keep your blonde shade a bit lighter.

Dark brunettes. A deep honey highlight throughout your style might be  best, you are then working with your hairs natural pigment rather than fighting it, try to avoid bleaching as this just damages your hair. Choose your colour carefully consider all your options. You may need to seek professional advise. Remember combining a fun new blonde hair color with a new cut can completely change the way you look and feel about yourself and the way others look and see you!

Layering colors

Applying a variety of blonde hair colors throughout your hair on various areas of layering creates a very striking and unique look. If you have a light brown base then highlights to lighten the top sections keeping your layers underneath dark this gives dimension and a great two tones look . This type of coloring looks particularly good on straight, medium-length hair with short or longer bangs.

A few Examples of Blonde looks:

These are just a few thoughts and ideas for those interested in creating a new blonde hair color try to do something different and new with your blonde hair this season.Blonde hair in small or large doses is a good way to update your appearance and help lift your mood!

In the fall, autumn with a demi application we can go darker with out any ill effects or possibility of damage. Toning down for the fall or autumn! It just takes some forward planning and some patients moving around with shade and tone to create new looks without damage is quite possible.

Mike B2MR

 

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Perfect Blonde Hair colour for spring


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

How do you get a perfect balanced natural look blonde hair cloud that does not look dyed?

How does one attain a perfect level of lift to reach a natural looking blonde hair colour level. As discussed many time before in previous articles one has to consider lift deposit and the natural level of the hair to start with. I am writing this as a response to a search on the topic. The raised question was. To get from natural level 7 to 9? This would be a perfect level to reach and target colour attainable. Remember understanding colour how it works. How to neutralise or utilise those pigments you will expose in the lifting process requires that you consult and trust the colour wheel.

When lifting from a natural level 7 the pigment exposed with be as follows.

*7 expect Orange undertone:

*8 expect Orange/Yellow undertone:

*9 desired 9 expect Yellow:

My suggestion would be to use a high lift Blonde to reach this level of lift. It is possible to get the right level of lift without bleach!

High lift Blonde will give up to 4 levels of lift so 7 to 9 is perfect to expect target colour and shade.

I would suggest using either High lift 100A [ash] or 100V[violet] both of these will control pigment exposed.

For an ultimate Blonde here is a formulation that frankly rocks.

10 grams 100A, 10 grams 100V,  10 grams100B. 10 grams 100[clear] + 80 grams of 40 volume peroxide.  Remember 30 grams is = to 1 0z

You can change the mixing ratio as the above is a lot of product for short hair.

Mixing the different shades will give you more pigment to control the the pigment exposed whilst lifting.the 100 in most colour line sis a clear and gives you a little extra lift. Remember with most High lift products the amount of developer is increased  to a mixing ratio of i part colour to 2 parts developer [always follow direction of given product] development time is key here 50 minutes.this being  30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit.

Either of the suggested formulations will work giving a really nice level9 Blonde but always consider.

*1 previously coloured hair will respond differently.

*2 you cannot lift colour with colour. So if previously coloured High lift formulation will not lift out old colour.

*3 If in doubt and thinking of home colour or dye have a professional consultation follow directions. be safe.

I hope this is useful to all those want to be blondes out there! Mike B2MR

 

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Natural level three wanting high and lowlights


Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Naturally Level 3 Natural Asian hair wanting Highlights:
Wanting natural honey shades caramels shades of summer. Cool blonde, creamy caramel sun kissed honey, strawberry are they possible? yes.

How do you feel about working with really Dark hair be it Native American. Japanese. Chinese. Asian.

A challenge to many of us stylists. What do all these different cultures have in common? They all present the same colouring issues. Especially when trying to achieve a really good Blonde beige shades. The issue pigment control unwanted warmth!

Lets Introduce Melissa our client and Linda our stylist.

The issue:

Melissa sits down with Linda for a consultation. Again this is the time Linda can ask the questions to find out about Melissa, her life style, her hair history, her goals. Linda sits with Melissa and as they chat and she takes notes it’s established that Melissa has never coloured her hair, but would like some Blonde and caramel Highlights through the top of her hair. She has shoulder length hair that she enjoys and likes to play with putting it up.

Having listened to Melissa Linda says well as i”m sure you are aware getting your hair to Blonde can have it’s issues.Melissa says yes many of my friends have nasty orange brown hair i don’t want that. I fully understand says Linda. Don’t worry i will explain why this happens and what we can do.

Firstly getting the right shade is always much hard  due to the structure of your hair you have more layers to your cuticle. Secondly and the most important factor is how dark you are naturally you have a great deal Blue pigment this controls any red showing through.But as we start to lift your hair the big issue is always red and orange. Oh i see says Melissa. Linda goes on with an example. She say’s if I lift my natural hair level 4 shades I get blonde as you can see she says smiling! If i lift your hair four levels we will get a red orange shade. So we have to consider our best options and agree on our target shades.

Let me get a shade chart so we can get a shared vision. Great says Melissa. Thank you for explaining all this to me.No worries say’s Linda i like a challenge.

Right say’s Linda here we are. Sitting with Melissa she says you see this top row on the chart with the N yes? Says Melissa, well your natural shade is here second in from the right.That dark? Say’s Melissa. Yep now Linda says [LEVEL6] watch this she counts in four levels from the right including the level started from knowing that this level has to also be lifted through. Oh Say’s Melissa is that it as light as i can be. No say’s Linda I’m just taking you on a little colour journey.

Now she says watch this and Linda counts down 4 levels. Her finger now sitting on then tone line C [COPPER 6CR]  Linda say’s if we lift four levels this is what we can expect, with all that pigment you have. Melissa says this is quite complicated. Not really says Linda but it’s best to be realistic about goals and expectations. Linda says If we lift it to this level we can control all this warmth giving us a nice Caramel shade our second shade. She now moves her finger again on the shade chat to the B level [BEIGE] and says this one 4th in from the right two shades up from the copper [6CR]. Wow says Melissa you can do that yes we can.

I will use a high lift Blonde formulation it takes longer it has a higher level or peroxide for the lift we need and more pigment to control all that warmth here is what we will use to attain this shade.

Right here we are say’s Linda.With another swatch. Now at this point you may be thinking what is going on? well stay with us Linda will explain. Melissa says your using that yes say’s Linda which one do you think she says to Melissa . Who points to the 100B Ok says Linda.  We will be using this one Pointing to the 100A that’s Grey say Melissa ,  Linda laughs no it’s ash and we need all that pigment to control all that red orange .Oh how cool is that. This really is a science Isn’t yes it is says Linda.

Now for the lighter shade we will be using a bleach decolouriser with 20 volume peroxide but will be applying it a number of times. If you like it will be coats or layers or product on top of each other as your hair starts to lift. We will also be working from the ends in toward the scalp as they will take the longest to lift. I’m thinking slightly thicker panels so they show rather than fine weave fine says Melissa I’m in your hands.

Finally says Linda. Our goal is for that 7B beige shade the blonde will be around the 1000B shade that you pointed out and of course your own colour so this look will create three shades and lots of texture and dimension . How does all that sound . Great say’s Melissa I’m excited this will take some time so be patient with me I’m thinking around three to four hours max start to finish. no problem.

Ok lets talk formulation: whilst Linda does some mixing.

First the Caramel shade we can gain a little extra lift by using the 100  it is pigment fee so acts like a booster note [never use more than 25% of this in your formulation or it will dilute down your required pigment]

1/2oz 100+ 11/2oz100A total 2oz [60 grams] 40voume peroxide 4oz [120 grams] this a lot for formula but we have a great deal of hair to deal with [a normal formulation would be half this amount]

Second formulation we may have to mix up more than one lot  seeing a swe are working in towards the scalp

1oz or 1scoop bleach power to approx 2 oz [60grams] 20 volume peroxide mixed into desired consistency.

Back with Linda who now has her trolley papers and product ready to go. She starts to work on the  thicker alternating highlights applying the 100A formulation over full section.

The bleach is applied from the ends into the mid lengths to start with as this starts to lift more product will be applied both to the mid lengths and ends and in to the roots until desired level of lift is attained. Linda works away very skillfully alternating shades applying the product where she wants it every so often checking on hair already starting to lift. As time goes bye Linda starts to apply the bleach formulation closer to the scalp having mixed up two fresh batches of product.

The development time on the on the High lift formulation is 50 minutes 30 minutes lift 20 minutes deposit . Knowing that she wants the pigment to control the unwanted warmth exposed she is happy with the way that is progressing. As things moves along Linda is constantly checking on the effective lifting of any given section and then  re applying  product to needed area’s.

Once finished she look at Melissa says now it’s awaiting game to get even lift. She explains mistakes happen when not enough time is taken to get the desired shade of Blonde or level of lift. Linda says I’m happy with the lift and the caramel shade I just need to lighter shade to lift beyond Orange if we can do this i can tone to a desired colour. After much checking Linda says perfect we have a nice even even bright Yellow and that’s the best we expect.Oh say’s Melissa i was hoping for Blonde not yellow.  Don’t worry smiles Linda yellow is good I can tone that to a nice Beige. How Melissa asks well another mistake that is often made is using the wrong toner .Many might reach for a Ash base but that would not be good [Ash is Blue ] blue and yellow make green  not such a good look.

We will use a strong Violet toner this will control the yellow perfectly [The balance restored Violet being red +blue so a perfect balance to the yellow]  She sets to work rinses all the processed colour out . Now to  the work of toning the hair working it thought out the top section. slowly as she works it in the Violet toner works is magic creating the desired tone.

Finally all done Linda as she washes and conditions says I am very happy with this i know it’s taken quite a long time but we have the shades and tones we wanted.

Lets go to my station take a look and style it for you to get the full effect. As you can see from the picture to the left the effect was first class. Controlled blonde with a burnt caramel shade braking up Melissa’s natural darker coloure.It’s only on the surface of her hair the underneath is still dark and solid so a great introduction to colour. Finally Linda advises Melissa on products to maintain the colour and suggests a return visit in a couple of weeks just to check on the tone and that all is well. Melissa  has a face that says it all a very happy client another huge job that was discussed and executed and finished to the highest standard.

Information on Colouring using Highlift blonde shades

The most natural form of High- Low Lights:

When we think about low lights the idea of that natural sun kissed look comes to mind,Those tones shades that natural lightening created from manipulating the hair’s natural pigment. Enabling us to use those tones just a few shades lighter than our natural base shade.Shade stat add dimension tone shine a really natural look. In so many cases client will ask for low lights that give a few shades of lift for a natural look however on so many occasions. they can end up with bleach decolourised cocktail lightening the hair to then have a stylist re add pigment with a toner to control the lift.Why can this occur? How does this occur and happen? poor consultation.sad lack of creative skill and technical knowledge.

A Different approach: 

Consider this. A natural level hair 1,2,3,4,5  these are what we would normally consider the darker shades Brown through Dark Brown into black {Asian hair} 

Lifting these shades to get a lighter streaked look can cause problems due once again to the pigment that is going to be exposed through the lifting process. We will be at these levels dealing with shades of red and orange! To create Low lights that sun kissed look we have to have a target colour in mind. We need to asses the hair so we have a clear idea of the pigment we are going to expose and how we are going to control it!

During this consultation time it should be noted that considering the hair’s history.This plays a very important role in decisions made has the hair been coloured before? If all over Colour has been applied be it professional or over the counter it will effect the the choices you make and the out come.You cannot lift colour with colour!! If a previous chemical history trying to create a low light using a high lift blonde formulation will ‘not’ work. Remember in most cases you cannot lift colour with colour: { some products now days will defuse pigment and allow this but i question how good they are} My reason for raising the above issues are because what i want to suggest is using is.

High Lift Blonde permanent colour: to create low lights:

This method dictates that you fully understand pigment lift deposit. That you trust and understand the pigmentation of your High lift blonde range  does the product Have enough pigment control to give you the desired tone shade lifting through red and orange?

Above are examples of high lift Blonde shades:

Normally the mixing ratio for these high lift shades is one part colour to two parts 40 Volume Hydrogen Peroxide development time up to 50 Mins {That being 30mins lift 20mins deposit} Heat should not be required heat can be very bad in the colour process it can cause bleeds due to expansion of product. 

You can see the various shades Ash, Beige, Violet. Gold. 100 is a clear. With some products you can us this to get an extra bit of lift maybe a shade, but remember when adding this to a formulation you are diluting down the pigment available in the formulation so if using the clear as a booster no more than 20%  should be used in any formulation.

The 100 series on it’s own will give a nice low light but will not control any pigment exposed it is just lift pigment free. So any lift will create a low light exposed from the natural hair pigment. Given that most manufactures claim 4 levels of lift from High lift blonde what can we expect? Well given a natural level 4 we should be able to get a low light around level 7. As we know that a natural level 7 has an orange under tone using a formulation with ash should give a nice sandy controlled honey low light .

The 40 volume Hydrogen giving you the four levels of lift the Ash pigment controlling the pigment exposed! The shades shown are realistic tones that can be reaches with this method. Although using a higher volume of peroxide i think it still better  than using a bleach to lift and then re pigment or tone the hair.

Multi shades very natural looking:

 Low lights Done with this method have less tendency to fade due to the fact you have worked with the hairs natural pigment base. Do give it a try although the time for development is longer like most services in a salon time management is key to being a success. You don’t need to rush or force colour development you just need to manage your time effectively forcing hair colour development with a plastic cap and heat will not improve your colour. Hair colouring is an equation of formulation lift deposit and timing! Think of  of it as. Formulation, Mix, Timing !Just like baking a cake recipe ingredients over temp Timing. perfect cake perfect colour ! There are many different opinion’s on applying heat to colour. Always follow manufactures instruction, It’s is my thinking that adding heat changes the process. If after our consultation we decide on a formula . That Being tube pigment + Developer= Timing  that process of lift and development.

My thoughts oh added heat:

Consider that heat with a plastic cap. It creates moisture and condensation where does that mositure come from? The formula so it’s changing the chemistry and so the process. Foil highlights with a cap again Condensation in the cap it forces the product to expand rapidly leading to bleeding. With out a cap it will dry the product out as the mixture drys out causing patchy lift on any given section. Always consider what you are trying to achieve patients and timing is the best way learn to manage your time during the process of development.

Thoughts and comments Mike B2MR


 

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Blonde issues and thoughts


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Time to move on lets look at Blonde hair colouring issues :

Lets start with a case study of Highlights and low lights  [lift and deposit] This in it self can create many issues both from a technical stance and from a client stylist relationship point of view. Many years of experience have shown me that when a client is unhappy with her blonde hair the maintenance required and yes the cost things can start to go down hill on the communication front.

Let me introduce to you our client Emily and our Stylist Ted.

Emily has long hair and is a natural level 6 [mouse/rat] she loves being blonde but over time feels that she has lost the highlighted look that she so loved and that the maintenance and cost is starting to become an issue an condition is starting to be a worry!

The consultation: Ted sit down with Emily and off the bat say’s you have no idea how many young women like your self i have this conversation with. Just how common place this issue is. But don’t worry it’s fixable today and maintainable for the future. Oh really says Emily that is so good to hear I was worried that was future was turning very dark! Does this look ring any bells with you as a stylist? Back with. Ted he begins to explain that over time sadly the highlighted look can get lost it’s a mixture of a few factors, some responsibility for this falls with you the client some with us stylist’s. Yes he say’s not perfect just trying to be! They both laugh another good sign.

Firstly says Ted. I agree that Blonde works well for you you have the perfect natural base shade the problem is over time you and your stylist have allowed your hair to get to blonde. It has lost any any depth and tone and just become a bleached highlighted look.You see say’s Ted the lighter we allow you hair to the quicker the roots will appear. It’s not intentionally done it creeps up. But it’s my opinion that we as stylist’s owe it you as our clients to be honest and some times draw the line when it comes to letting you go blonder and blonder!  Ted goes on to say. We have to explain to you what we think is best.You may not always listen or like what you hear, but hey you are paying me for my professional advise as well as my skill. Wow say’s Emily that’s a first no one have ever told me all that.

Well here is what we are going to do.

Firstly only Highlight the top half of your head and this will be some highlights to keep you blonde and we will re introduce two other shades.One shade at your natural level and a nice Beige to pull it all together. we will then fill in all the under section of your hair taking it back to your own colour. Ted explains that the darker under section will look more natural and look way better when Emily put her hair up. Emily says sounds great lets do it!

A Formulation for this: 

Roots 1oz [30 grams ] Bleach powder with 2oz [60 grams] 2o Volume peroxide.This will be used on the weaved highlights but only on the roots and with a slight over lap to prevent banding.

Second formulation is two mixtures:

8N with 30 Volume. Why more lift but the pigmentation of the 8N will control the yellow orange we will expose making it a nice beige.1oz 8N  11/2 oz 30 volume peroxide roots only Mid lengths and ends 8B Demi lotion formulation mixing ration 1oz 8B to 2oz Demi lotion developer for mid lengths and ends so we are in effect lifting and depositing at the same time.[ mark your bowls so you don’t mix them up] Final Formulation 6B as a Demi formulation  for deposit only this is also the shade we will run through the under section again no lift just deposit. 2oz 6B 4oz Demi lotion developer enough to do both the low light and go straight in to the under section application. Making full use of your time and not wasting product.

Once all the formulations mixed up Ted sets to work. Oh says Emily you don’t use foil no say’s Ted I like these waxed papers they stay much closer to the roots they don’t slip less pain when i take them out! Oh i like the sound of that says Emily, it’s always painful.Not today says Ted! Once all done the process time will be dependent on the last few Highlights we have put in says Ted. But don’t worry I stared at the front so they will be a little blonder and we will not lift the crown as much. the Darker shade is none progressive so stops once it reached desired colour. So all good be patient no heat but will not be to long. they wait the out come.

Ted checks the progress a couple of times and after 30 Minutes it ready to come off he takes all the papers out and then rinses very quickly holding the highlighted hair away from the darker underneath once it’s all rinsed of colour it’s a normal shampoo and conditioning process.

Remember those dark roots that line of demarcation? All gone and blended in. Now we have a very natural looking Blonde with highlights and low lights to tone it down and control the root issue. Emily say’s she is so happy it’s the best it’s been is such a long time. Ted says leave it as long as possible our goal is to get you coming back every three months. Why are not all hairdresser like you most say 6 weeks are says Ted. Here is the deal you like your hair you tell your friends you and your friends and their friends keep me busy  to the point that i can only see you every three months!Oh says Emily i see  me and my friends keep you busy I hope so says Ted.

Oh and as for the under section check this out! As a form of re colouring and depositing pigment I cannot express enough what a wonderful gentle formulation a Demi application is. It will give even depth and tone without the need for and lift. Its a satin finish that loos so natural. give it a try. I think that as stylists we have so many options choices of technique and products at our disposal, we are truly very lucky. Oh and having great clients helps. We have so many issues that can arise when working with our clients to create that natural blonde look to maintain it.The key is communication and honesty. Our clients will always push to be that little bit blonder it’s up to us as professional to some times to pull the reins in to prevent future issues.

What are these issues, They normal arise from over processing, poor condition, colour fading. longevity of colour lasting, leading to cost issues. Always keep your client on track be open about maintenance issues cost of up keep. Remember your the professional your in control.

As promised some extra views and thoughts on some Blonde hair issues 

I look around me when out in public and see so many cases of over processed hair,  badly done highlights and streaks examples of this can come in many forms. Streaks and Highlights that look bright at the roots but fade away in the mid lengths and ends. Streaks highlights low lights that have been done with bleach pre lightening and then colour deposited on top to create pigment and tone. In so many cases this colour fades away oh so quickly, leaving bright yellow blonde roots and faded flat colour on the rest of the hair shaft caused by over processing over lifting lack of porosity in the hair.

Patchy streaks dull blonde caused by using wrong shade as a toner. An example of this yellow blonde lift from bleach decolourizer, then  selecting ash as toner a misconception that ash is the correct shade yellow and blue make for a green hue! Violet would be a correct choice. All hair colouring is addressing issues around colour balancing replacing pigments that the hair is lacking. Everything stems from the three primary colours that make up hair colour Red, Blue, Yellow. We then have secondary colour and so on using ones colour wheel is key to correct colour balancing toning and correction a re-balancing or replacing missing pigments.

When colouring hair. Having the knowledge and an understanding of the process lift, deposit, neutralizing and utilizing underlying pigment. The chemistry and pigments you have exposed through the lifting process for colouring is all about lift and deposit not just choose a colour and put in on any given head. Most Colour brands will lift a maximum of 4 levels so if you are lifting from a level 6 to 10 you will not get to the target colour with 40 volume peroxide and your colour will always be to gold or yellow! Why? underlying pigment.When considering the above lift from level 6 to 10 think about where 6 lives on a colour wheel then think about level 10 then consider all the under pigment you will expose as you lift through these levels this will help you decide if your Target is possible.

As soon as you lift level 6 one level you expose red orange, then orange then yellow orange then yellow and last of all pale yellow so four levels of lift will leave you with a yellow base. If your trying for a natural blonde it will be to yellow so toning what do we choose? Ash ? Violet? Beige?

                             blonde high lights low lights

Lets go back to level 6 to 10 and 40 volume peroxide this degree of lift is not possible why because you have to lift through level 6 then 7,8,9 this is your four level so 10 is not attainable with permanent colour unless you pre-lighten with Bleach decolourizer,This process warrants some time so you don’t end up with bright over lifted roots! Before we embark on this we have to consider the head we are working on is    it pre-coloured? can we lift out that colour? again what pigment will we expose? what condition is the hair in how porous is it? will it hold colour? strand test it  when wet will it stretch? does it float or sink in water? if it does not float it’s over processed and will not hold colour strongly recommend not to pre lighten this hair.

Consultation look touch question. but remember that most people tend to be rather dishonest about their colour history weather it be home exploration or professional also some hair dresser tell clients that colours are semi permanent even when they do both lift and deposit! why because they don’t take the time to understand the chemistry of the product they are using also many of the companies miss lead stylist in the way their colours work!

Herbal, Ammonia free, no lift, no peroxide. ask, ask, ask, then ask again!! get all the information you can be the best you can understand the chemistry of the colour and the the pigment available to you in any given shade.

Will the Natural series have enough pigment to hold a natural level when using 20 volume peroxide or will it be to warm ? Questions you have to ask your self and consider.  The above is a perfect balance of high lights and low lights a very natural multi-tonal look.

Well we are having a very varied day and lets be honest the time needed to deal with all these issues is quite considerable. But with all the knowledge we had and all the new knowledge we have we should be coping very well.

enjoy Mike B2MR

 

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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
 

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Spring is in the air. Thoughts for wedding day hair


                                     Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR 

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s…

Wedding day hair for the Bride: The biggest day the happiest and hopefully one of the most memorable days of her life. As Stylists we play  a big part of making this day a big success.We have to remember that the look we create will always be part of the record of this special day. Consultation with the bride having a relationship having a clear understanding of vision look that the bride to be has in mind. We have to remember that we are the professional. Should we advise if a look is not the right?  If the style is not suited because of hair type or indeed general look? Yes of course our job is to sympathetically advise and guide the bride to be. This should all come out of the Consultation and indeed practice sessions.

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

Working with our clients to find and create that perfect wedding hair Up-do that special look making her feel princess for a day. has many challenges an diet can be such a rewarding journey for al concerned. Stressful, emotional, A journey embarked  working to discover and create that perfect look and style!

I have tried to keep a record of such a journey I took as a stylist in some ways more challenging than most maybe with more pressure than most. In another  way a very special unique position to be in. My parting gift to my daughter an Up do forged from love a look worthy of our journey up to this special moment. Her wedding day

As I write this and reflect on what an important day this truly is. I wonder  how many of us as stylist really take the time to consider what a privilege it’s is to be a part of this an dhows seriously we take it .For it is not just another up do another wedding another way of making some extra cash!

I will share with you practice session not always pretty but it’s how one gets feel for the hair how it will go up looks that w evan create it’s play time. With very long hair one has to have this practice time not just to find a look but also to get the timing right! In the case of my daughter we were dealing with very long and quite fine hair hair.

We also have to consider colour and work back from the wedding date to make suer it looks it’s best on the day. I would suggest in most cases the colour should be done about a week prior top the day!

Below first session as  have indicated sharing all so not saying they are all perfect or ideal it’s part of the process.

 Having played around with the looks above and below we ruled out braids and anything to bitty so we established what we did not want progress. through consolation listening and patients.

The out takes session one we decided to busy and disjointed and no braids! moving on: next we start to play with the idea of pleats and buns again exploring options. We decided both these looks we liked the swirl but not big enough and just a little to much going on again we agreed on this whilst look at digital shots on the comp of each look. takes time but well worth itbelow the last look we dismissed as being a little to much like a french pleat! as classic but not for this look.

 

As you can see quite a few looks and styles created explored and ultimately rejected!  patients on both sides is a must, the bride can and indeed may become emotional it’s stressful process. But  so very well worth while. All the looks show off colour texture but just missed a little something  until one just pooed out! It is my opinion that some of these up do looks area  very messy .I wanted to share the experience so had to post them to show the journey we took.The out takes and how it evolved it does not just happen. even top stylist practice a look so it looks easy and it works! No we are getting closer to a look and both feeling better!

t

These last two were the end of day one and i think show quite the journey of how things evolve shapes form ideas come to life below the find; look on the day.Note i did not see or know what the dress would be like i put her hair up prior to seeing her.

These last two shots above:

show off a look but they also show texture and show off the highlights oh and the beauty of the bride to be. Whilst doing this exercise we had i deal i would not see the dress but would find a look that would do it justice. We discovered on the day the the pleat and the texture created  worked the same way as the fabric of the back of the dress Master the art be creative have confidence enjoy creating remember it’s not always about money the rewards can be so much greater!!

Sharing a few other looks with you:

shot from the back lots of texture also showing off the low lights in her hair this adds texture and movement.

finally having some fun with some very long amazing red hair you just have to play explore have fun be creative working with your client enjoy the journey the experience the challenge.

Mike B2MR

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 

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