Category Archives: Salon colour line choice

The hair salon survival plugging those leaks!

Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Is your salon leaking are you struggling to stay afloat?

These are tuff times an economy that is slow challenges of competition. Clients looking for deals and discounts the hair industry and owning a salon have many more challenges these days. Are there ways to save money stop wastage plug those unnoticed leaks? Of course there are so many unforeseen running costs in the salons well as the inevitable ongoing expenses. Here are a few tips that might help you. So where can these leeks be van they be plugged? Yes it takes just a few changes in patterns and actions.

1/ We have all done it it constantly happens in the salon those off hand discounts you know the ones That client who is having a tuff time or that special regular you like that one who tips well! Her or his service was maybe full head highlights and cut. You take your client to the reception and say to the receptionist oh just charge for cut and a T section toady! or that cut and blow dry we will just call that a flat X today! this is discounting this is giving away money if your staff member it’s not yours to give! How often does this happen. Add it up it has to stop.The client does not expect it they come for the service and attention you give no need to try and buy loyalty it’s off hand discounting costing the salon £££$$$$ every month and the stylist as commission is less. Change number. One stop this practice across the board!

2/ Carrying to much retail stock.If it’s not moving it’s dead money go the shelf carry what you need and what you know sells. Don’t make up excessively sell more for less! The more you can retail the better the deals with your distributor. Pay invoice on 30 days products constantly change so over stocking on old packaging is dead money you end up either discounting it or using it in the salon.

3/ Products Salon stock. I don’t know how many salons i have been in that have boxes of half used tubes of colour ! Why is this staff are to lazy to look for the used tubes have a system where they must be used prior to new stock being released. This is a major cost to salons stock control.

4/ Product waste over mixing of product and general misuse of products not good for the environment by a gain it adds up a big expense to the salon.How much colour and bleach is left over after any given process! Weigh it measure it keep good records of formulation eye balling formulation is not professional and creates waste! Consider if you do not keep good formulation records how can you emulate the same colour! your sick how does your co worker cover for you !!

5/ A fair and structured commission and reward system one that works for the salon offers incentive but can be afforded. Many salons can be held to ransom by a busy stylist this can be costly it have to be fair for all. make sure appointment bookings and times allocated are managed by the reception. No more added time added extra time just because you enjoy the chat with a certain client!! over the week how many lost appointment does this make for the salon!

If you were to apply these five changes to your salon over a month you would sees noticeable increase in revenue and saving on costs. I’m not suggesting cut backs. I’m suggesting taking control not just as an owner but as stylist . Stop giving those 10 or 15% discount breaks think about product use. Manage your stock both retail and in salon. Think about making these changes it can be nothing but good for all concerned the salon the business the salon and index the staff team. If your giving the best service have great skills offer a wonderful experience that’s all you need to do!

I write this from experience having owned salons but also visited so many where this constantly happens.

Finally start keeping records of the new clients the walk in client see how many re book or come back a second time! Do this over a period then have a staff meeting to discuss retention and re booking. Over 25% of clients who visit a salon for the first time do not return! how much business are you losing!

Some easy steps to make some big changes that could make such a big difference to the salon the staff ad your profitability. Discuss this with your team it cost everyone it could be your survival collaboration not dictating make your team responsible for their part in this. Manage your salon wisely drop old habits remember why your in business. think about the vision you have for your salon your life.

Mike B2MR

Need some help an daddies check out the support we can offer you if struggling to make these changes.


Tags: , , , , ,

Hair structure.The science the chemistry.

 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                         Understanding hair structure:

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much to understanding. How the hair structure works. What role it plays is key to  successful colouring. In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.or any chemical process we apply.We also have to keep up with the changing chemistry of the products we use.We have to understand how they react on the hair. What is the chemistry in that tube of colour pigment or that relaxer.Is it safe can i trust it! Blind faith or trusting the sales rep is not enough!

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.

Imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle.

Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability.The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength.When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex. To do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. in it’s natural state healthy hair has a ph of around 5.5. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

More recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? You decide! They all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline. Personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ).4% up to2%.

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon based chemistry.Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH  of around 5.5.

The same applies when relaxing hair much talk and discussion about Keratin based products. Along with the relaxers comes the issues of chemistry disclosed and reactions caused. major discussions on Formaldehyde gas or vapours  being produced and now the new safer term Aldehydes watch out for both.

see past topic:

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. When the hair is wet it is quite fragile as we dry the hair the keratin starts to harden and becomes stronger. We also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services. Keratin as i have said is another well marketed product. Found naturally in the hair. By definition when added to products it must be good healthy natural! Most hair products that have Keratin in them may well be source or derived from. Animal. Vegetable or mineral. All being natural organic. Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use they can make the hair slightly brittle Keratinisation. Given the cost restrictions and the hydrolisation process for human hair keratin extraction most companies opt for the cheaper sources Although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500}   The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair}

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

picture above: healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

Mike B2MR:


Tags: , , , , , ,

Choosing a colour line for your salon.

Back2myroots: A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

Choosing: The right colour line for your Salon: How  would you go about it?

What is the right product for you? How do you get all the answer to make an informed choice or decision! With so many products on the market so many manufacturers how on earth do you decide what company what product to chose? This is a big decision and a huge out lay for any salon so you have to get it right.

Do you make a list? If so where do you start?

* Cost.


*Education support and training.

*Ammonia free.

*Herbal or organic.


*Staff interest or approval.

*best deal at the time.

All quite valid points and all have merit to some degree. With so many manufactures all trying for the same market as wholesale or as distributor the profit and returns are very good. The goal of any distributor is to get the colour line they represent in to your salon. Most distributors will carry more than one colour line. They work every closely with the manufactures that they represent. Many work on the premiss that if they can get their colour line into your salon then the wet line and retail sales should follow. Incentives are offered such as free or reduced price back bar or display stands.maybe even some stylist products. all sounds really good. If you have never negotiated these point now you can!

Back to the question: How do you chose?

The above list may help make your own. I do think that the staff have to be onboard with this and commit to any truing that may be required. Do not go for a new colour line without any training. Poor results will follow. Collaboration between management and staff is essential.

I would suggest have a few companies put on demonstration nights to test the product and ask any valid question.Do distributors and manufactures do this yes they do they have trained educators to do this and work with the distributor. If they don’t then they are not worth bothering with! If you already use a colour line but are looking to change this is usually because the staff are having issues with the product. Or a brand new product has come onto the market and it’s the next got to have thing! New is good but sometimes new comes with teething issues so sit back and wait awhile!

Fact: When staff want change due to product issues 9 times out of 10 it’s not the product! True it’s so easy to blame a tube of colour when things go wrong normally one of the following.

* Poor deposit.

* Fading.

* Reds that don’t hold.

*N series that cannot control warmth.

* Lack of general warmth control.

*Poor quality high lift shades. [normally relating when trying to go from level 6 to 10!] Da!!!  not possible asking to lift to many levels not enough pigment control!

* Not enough choice of shades.

* Want Ammonia free.

Most sales rep’s are trained to ask questions prior to starting to sell you a new colour line. They know how to draw the weaknesses of the colour line you use out. All colour line shave their strengths and their weaknesses. But if you and your staff are educated properly and use the  product correctly these issues can be dealt with. All of the list above have nothing to do with the product! Do you know what it’s to do with? Poor consultation.Poor assessment. Bad formulation. In other word the stylist or technician. Laziness. Poor training. or just good old not caring.

Dose quality play a part? Yes supported  by re search and investment.

Of course it does. Do you get what you pay for! for the most part yes. Do they differ that much. Yes they do. Another list!

*Cream colour or oil based.

* Direct dye or none direct. partially or fully developed colour molecules.

* Organic or herbal. or other. Big issue this come shown to some technical understanding on chemistry.

*Ammonia Free. If yes then what drives the colour?  need to know.

* Full range Permanent semi demi.options to colour balance.

* Is the N series calibrated to deal with warmth exposed at any given level?

Once you have researched and got your list of questions together now you can invite the different company representatives  to come in do a demonstration and answer your questions. I do not promote individual colour lines or products If someone were to offer me a job as an educator then i might. Do i have favourites yes1 Would I share this with you if asked Yes! But only in one on one e-mail as response to a question.

The quality of products changes constantly new ones come and go. A few of the manufactures are committed to our industry and to supporting stylist and education for some it’s just business in the salon or over the counter. My advise would be research look for the ones offering the best support education and training. If you do this you don;t have to change colour lines for any of the reason’s above.Why because your using the best an dour staff have the very best training and support.

One last thing: 

Some colour lines may seem cheap larger tubes mixing ratios are very important is it mix 1 part colour to 1 1/2 developer or 2 parts colour 1 part developer  and the more pigment needed for a formulation normally indicates poorer quality of pigment in the tube. Salon waste is also very expensive measure colour weigh it keep good records eye balling it is wasteful and un professional.

Mike B2MR


Tags: , , ,

%d bloggers like this: