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Health or wealth in your salon


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR


Health or wealth: 

As mentioned we are living through some very challenging economic times. Business models that work no longer seem to.There are no guarantee’s when it comes to customer loyalty. With this comes worries about revenue daily and weekly takings.  Products and techniques come and go Perming, Henna, Highlights, Lowlights,Ombre. All have taken there place in the salon hall of fame for both looks and indeed for profitability. 

Now we have a new challenge facing us! The chemistry of our products is changing at a rapid pace some of the manufacture are less than transparent about how these products work and any possible side effects. Frankly this is worrying and we as professional have to ask more question and be either less trusting  or hold the manufacture to account. The chemistry in many cases of our hair colour has changed Ammonia got gets a bad warp it seems an Alkaline derived from grain has a more natural quality to it so it must be safer and healthier! You decided MEA come from the ethanol family.

Back to the profit the revenue.The services that are great money makers. The safety of the chemicals in the Keratin products [relaxers] our ability to trust the manufacturers of these products. Follow the money…so many stylists see only the quick return the fast cash made from these services, ignoring the cancer, COPD and asthma dangers to ourselves and our clients. In some cases if not the product it self. It’s the reaction caused when high heat is applied and fumes are given off.  Formaldehyde. Aldehydes produce toxic fumes in our salon workspace.  Will we be seeing more and more cases of serious breathing issues and potentially even worse side effects and health issues.

What is it going to take for salon owners and stylist to sit up do some home work ask some key questions about these products.

Greed is winning out over the safety and health issue! What will happen to our industry when the inevitable legal actions start by anyone who has side effects contracted from being around these fumes? We need to wake ourselves and each other up to the very real dangers of these product do your own research read some of the true facts. Don’t trust me i’m just a messenger but wealth is no replacement for health! The manufactures need to be more honest and we stylist have to demand more of them. Ignorance is not an excuse when it comes to health and safety.

Here are some links below and some food for thought.  But hey please do your own home work!

Lets take a look at some of the NEW Exciting Keratin hair products: They are designed  to control and smooth out hair get rid of the frizzies make it more manageable :

Well it’s seems like the market in the Keratin based hair products is growing in leaps and bounds it also seems that in an effort to gain market attention the chemistry of these products is in state of constant change  each company claiming more natural less harmful formulations. Some of the reviews I have read are far from favorable as to results attained, having said this to be fair i have had some very positive and open feed back the people at Nano Keratin very open about the product and how and why it works explanation of the process.

Warning flags:

After the initial interest in the Brazilian blow dry then came the first warning about formaldehyde and the fumes given off with the use of high heat flat irons. The main problem seems to be that having replaced the stabiliser formerly Formaldehyde the search was on for new ingredients that did not produce toxic fumes but also allowed for the cuticle to be opened and softened prior to the application of the Keratin. How do these products work quite simply you are opening the cuticle slightly introducing a conditioning product applying a layer a veneer of keratin and then ironing it flat with a hot iron that a simple explanation.

The much bigger explanation is that the products are all slightly different the source of keratin the products used to stabalise and change or manipulate the ph prior to the Keratin application. I read many reviews on the social sights and blog postings as people report their experience some good some bad some just not really that impressed.

This is the topic that started me asking questions: 

It not all doom and gloom and on a positive note i wrote an article on the Nano Keratin Technology  a very interesting keratin product that can be read at.

Another product was highlighted this week in the HJ  Brocoto they market their product as being a Curl interrupted smoothing system. How does this product work this product does not contain formaldehyde. The main point of difference they claim are as follows System does not contain any formaldehyde or give off any type of gas it is very gentle for hair and health. or so it’s claimed .just yesterday i was sent copy of lab report showing high levels of formaldehyde present in products claiming to be safe. The very high het required plays a key roll in the production of the harmful fumes.

They have a two step system, the first phase is a gel which softens the bonds in the hair,the ph of the smoothing gel is 6.85 ,( key ingredient ammonium bisulphite ) with the cuticle now relaxed and slightly open this is when any colour would be added prior to the Keratin application Then the keratin product is added when the bonds are pliable and elongated therefore easily absorbed with gentle heat.the keratin spray is 4.5 to 5.5. This product cannot be over used as the keratin is buffered with other natural ingredients such as acai oil, macadamia seed oil etc. This does not effect other chemical processes The colour does last longer when sealed after ironing with keratin spray. The colour we recommend to use at the same time as the service is an ammonia free demi colour , which does not affect the Ph, my question is demi colour does have an alkaline driver so we are opening an already open cuticle? The keratin is manufactured.  

Relaxers,Straitners, Keratin, Blow out: Sharing a health warning

Over the past week I have written reviews and posted information on the new Keratin hair products designed to relax De frizz promote a healthy look promoted as a system that last up to three months without any damage and side effects.

Much of what i read and re-searched was very exciting but as with all products and claims of the new wonder product did it have side effects. The one thing that did keep coming up as a warning light was initially with the Brazilian Blow out and Formaldehyde the problem being as the heat with the hot iron is applied the fumes can be dangerous. Question raised have and were met with denial in many quarters sadly fears have come to be true as yet only in Canada but a red light is a red light. Please if using these products take care follow all direction protect your self and your client.

Warning Oct. 7, 2010

Brazilian Blowout Solution Contains Formaldehyde

The Issue:

Health Canada is warning Canadians that Brazilian Blowout Solution manufactured by Brazilian Blowout of California has been found to contain unacceptable levels of formaldehyde. The Brazilian Blowout hair smoothing treatment is known to be available at salons across Canada.

Health Canada has received complaints of burning eyes, nose, and throat, breathing difficulties, and one report of hair loss associated with use of the product.

Testing conducted by Health Canada found that the Brazilian Blowout Solution contains 12% formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is permitted in cosmetics at less than 0.2% when used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is a known irritant, sensitizer, and is linked to cancer in humans when inhaled chronically over a long period of time. Health Canada believes that the reactions are being caused by formaldehyde becoming aerosolized during the blow drying and flat ironing stages of the treatment. Any procedure containing formaldehyde above the allowable limits places clients and stylists at increased risk.

Who is Affected:

Consumers receiving hair smoothing treatments using Brazilian Blowout, and stylists performing the treatment may experience reactions of burning eyes, nose, throat, and breathing troubles.

What Consumers Should Do:

Consumers who have had adverse reactions to Brazilian Blowout treatments are advised to seek medical attention. There is no cause for concern for consumers who have used this product and not experienced any reactions.

Stylists who use Brazilian Blowout treatments should immediately stop using the affected product.

Adverse reactions to cosmetics can be reported to Health Canada using a form available on Health Canada’s website.

Consumers and health professionals can contact Consumer Product Safety toll free at 1-866-662-0666.

* Health Canada, Oct. 7, 2010. is the look worth the risk?

Moving on we now have companies rebranding and so re packaging with new formulation claims ALDEHYDES are the term used. are they safe ? what happens when exposed to high heat? In the end you the stylist have to decide is it worth risking?

What is an Aldehyde? It’s the new kid on the block in keratin relaxers. Formaldehyde without the form!!!!!

Aldehyde is now found in many products ingredient listings instead of formaldehyde. Could it be it is derived from a natural source? maybe in the same way as we take Ammonia free as being better because MEA is derived from a natural source. It’s classed as natural herbal organic and so we are lead to believe safer and so Ok! when the fermentation takes place it makes ethanol. A grain Alcohol derivative the alkaline required for the process.

Aldehydes when heated with a flat iron to a heat of 450 degrees in the keratin process produce a gas guess what it’s called? No prizes folks but it’s bad stuff and can be carcinogen!

all good stuff i think worth knowing. I write so much on the topic of questioning product and the difference between what we are told an what is withheld. we have to stay current on all these products as they change and become re invented. . Mike very useful link

http://www.ewg.org/hair-straighteners/our-report/hair-straighteners-that-hide-formaldehyde/


As always i hope this has been informative it is a re visit to the topic for me as more information has come to light.Mike B2MR

A special thanks for input and sharing to Pamela Decharo and Sal:

http://www.businessinsurance.com/article/20120108/NEWS05/301089989#


   

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Grey hair Embrace it work with it!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair: This is such a huge topic so many option so quite a long article:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by both men and women as this silver threads start to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must go. women of all ages dread the day the first one shows up!

It does not have to all be bad! 

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Think about it. Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey? Why is it such a social stigma, why is it seen as not caring letting one self go! Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads. Should We. Can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?} Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether? Genetic? Any all or some of the above!

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our mid to late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change. It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives. Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair. When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey. Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks. Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.

The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful. As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed. The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger. That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly. I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work. I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.
“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned” and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey they have the most horrible patches of it. Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey
and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you are mad when you suggest this.

Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           
Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill. Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level. If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, Instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer} If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them. In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help! Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation. As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote
Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/
Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂
 

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Hair structure.The science the chemistry.


 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                         Understanding hair structure:

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much to understanding. How the hair structure works. What role it plays is key to  successful colouring. In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.or any chemical process we apply.We also have to keep up with the changing chemistry of the products we use.We have to understand how they react on the hair. What is the chemistry in that tube of colour pigment or that relaxer.Is it safe can i trust it! Blind faith or trusting the sales rep is not enough!

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.

Imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle.

Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability.The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength.When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex. To do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. in it’s natural state healthy hair has a ph of around 5.5. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

More recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? You decide! They all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline. Personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ).4% up to2%.

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon based chemistry.Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH  of around 5.5.

The same applies when relaxing hair much talk and discussion about Keratin based products. Along with the relaxers comes the issues of chemistry disclosed and reactions caused. major discussions on Formaldehyde gas or vapours  being produced and now the new safer term Aldehydes watch out for both.

see past topic: http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/02/29/what-is-an-aldehyde-you-need-to-know/

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. When the hair is wet it is quite fragile as we dry the hair the keratin starts to harden and becomes stronger. We also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services. Keratin as i have said is another well marketed product. Found naturally in the hair. By definition when added to products it must be good healthy natural! Most hair products that have Keratin in them may well be source or derived from. Animal. Vegetable or mineral. All being natural organic. Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use they can make the hair slightly brittle Keratinisation. Given the cost restrictions and the hydrolisation process for human hair keratin extraction most companies opt for the cheaper sources Although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500}   The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair}

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

picture above: healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

Mike B2MR:


 

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