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Natural Herbal organic hair colour.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do however try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across. Or that seem new and exciting

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

If MEA has bee around for so long how is it such a new innovation? Is it just a re hash of another type of alkaline? We are now flooded with adds marketing on so many ‘Ammonia free products’ without any hint of the re placement chemistry or what it does!  So why don’t we question why do we trust!

This revolution is now already in many of the home colour kits that promote quick fix Ammonia free colour! is this really professional? just because it’s say’s ‘Herbal’ and has a natural plant extract photo on the box does not make it healthier than anything else.

Lets be clear it’s marketing.It’s selling you what you are being conditioned to ask for!

The question I ask is simple. Is it really a new innovation? Is it really any less harmful than Ammonia? Thoughts on new MEA as engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  Also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ?

Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive.

This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. 

(Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.}

Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

There is no proof that Ammonia washes off the hair fully or that MEA is any better or indeed washes out it is suggested the Silicon oil does remain in the hair ! whats in that oil?

Breakage, fading, damaged, over-processed hair will occur when using chemical based color. Try Organic Color Systems for the best, most gentle, natural, organic results. Good luck! Don’t give up on your desired hair color, just take a different approach.

In many cases Ammonia becomes more damaging depending on its strength higher levels certainly open the cuticle more! but in low levels and controlled  0.4% 1.2% found in some professional colour is in my opinion safe to use and can be trusted to attain good colour results.

Below is a link and article found posted through twitter both very interesting i think this company really is trying to make a difference have some integrity:

                                                 See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no replyI have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?


Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.quote:

Mike, I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

Months later product never arrived so cannot give any up date.I still await an organic hair colour company to provide some product to try and education material that is open and transparent in both chemistry use and expectation/final results.

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour. Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

An example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends! The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

Now, just a few months later, Some salons are coming to a rude awakening – that the chosen product line is not ammonia freeand is clearly labeled as containing ammonia hydroxide.  Imagine seeing a new client who is a cancer survivor, a chemotherapy patient, or simply allergic to ammonia and then assuring them that the professional hair color product you use is ammonia free.  What could you possibly tell them after their treatment in which you unknowingly applied ammonia hydroxide to their scalp?  Would they sympathize with you if you told them that you bought the marketing hype but failed to read the ingredients label?  Salon professionals are licensed professionals and as such have an obligation and duty of care when dealing with the trust a client places in their hands to provide them with a safe and positive treatment.  It stands to reason that a minimum level of care begins with knowing the chemicals being applied to their scalp.

What is exceptional is that salon professionals everywhere are using this product without reading the ingredient labels of the products in the line.  The ingredients label for I certain post shampoo recommended for post-color shampoo with  “no ammonia” line clearly contains ammonia hydroxide as indicated in their ingredients list on the left While one side of the bottle indicates its contents as “Innovative No Ammonia” the other sides lists ammonia hydroxide on its legally required and government regulated ingredients label. always read directions always read formulation never trust the sales rep! do your own research ask questions? Keep asking question until you get the right answers.

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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Grey hair! What you need to know!


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Grey Hair:

That age old issue! The one topic that is talked about by men and women as this nasty stuff starts to appear. Yes it can happen at any age to any one.Yet society tries to dictate via Media and social barriers that it’s unsightly ageing and must Go.

A topic close to the heart of so many.One addressed as an ageing issue by media fashion hair colour manufactures and indeed the hair industry The Grey hair industry hype is alive and well and is big business!!!  So why is it that the on set of going Grey is so Judged? Is it that bigger deal?

As a hair stylist with many years experience I promote that whilst it can be dealt with it should be embraced .For it’s not going away.We should learn to work with it disguise it and not just try and constantly colour and over process the life out of it!  Odd coming from a stylist with a back ground in hair colour and colour education.

Is it really that bad?. To have a little Grey?

Why does society and the media make it such a big deal of it ? Because it’s huge business! Just think about all thoseTv and marketing ads.

Should we- can we embrace our Grey hair and still look stylist and feel young at heart? I think yes?

What is it? Why is it that our hair goes Grey? { husbands, Wives, Kids, work, life?}

Why is going Grey so random? Why are some people lucky enough too, bypass the Grey stage altogether?

LETS TAKE A LOOK.

Around our late fifties natural hair colour fades. As the body’s production of melanin decreases.When melanin production slows down we start to go Grey. When this production stops. The hair that grows in is white silver lacking pigment. The production of melanin is governed by genetic factors. So for the best indication, of when someone’s hair will become white, look to the parents, grand parents. How Grey are they? As this change happens so the texture can change.

It is not a given that it will be just Grey or white sadly as lack of melanin products starts we can go through a stage of salt pepper flat dull lack lister hair. So much to look forward to ha! Also depending on when the process starts ie what age the skin can also seem to change. We folks it called ageing. We can do it with grace and dignity.

Once the hair has gone Grey. Do you decide to take that leap into the world of colour? It’s important to find a colourist that will listen to your issues.Who understands both the technical issues, as well as the physiological ones. This ideally will be some one who can suggest options, a person who can explain alternatives.

Working with the right stylist or colour technician is essential, anyone suggesting camouflage may be well worth listening too.This would suggest working with the Grey. However someone suggesting, grabbing the lightest blonde or deepest brunette. This may not be the best person to work with.

Trying to attain a very light blonde.This can often results in a very harsh yellow undertone being presented. Grey hair still has pigment, In many cases stylist can make the mistake of, using to higher volume of Peroxide. The result of this can be, the introduction of unwanted pigment. It is this over exposure that will present either, unwanted warmth or a yellow undertone.

It is possible to maintain that warm copper shade that you have always loved,that works with your skin tone,complements your eye colour. The art is to introduce some shades to break up the solid so that 4 weekly roots is not an issue.So condition can be maintained. The above is a mix of soft high lights and low lights above shot all same model.

Temporary colours.

These can also be very useful, if you’ve decided to let nature take its course – but still need a little help.They can, take the yellowish cast out of. White and Grey and increase a more natural look to that salt-and-pepper hair. The advantage in this choice is, no lifting of the hair, so no unwanted warmth from pigment undertones being exposed.

As we get older. It is advisable to Go lighter as it’s softer against your skin tone. Sometimes a few high and low-lights are all that’s needed. They can introduce colour and texture to the hair. Whilst working with the Grey and natural tones. They can achieve this without. Totally masking natural tones out completely. This process is less harsh than all over colour, It will allow hair to grow out with less re-growth.

There’s no disputing that. The younger generation can pull off almost any look.

Not always the case with the older clients. It takes some attention to detail to get a style that’s graceful, elegant and sophisticated. Avoid very warm reds, plums and coppers. These tones can be very harsh and brash against older skin tones, they don’t tend to cover Grey very well. This is mainly due to lack of natural pigmentation.  {copper can look orange, Plum Pink or mauve}

It’s often assumed. Warmer colours are softer as we get older, but this is a myth. More neutral base tones look, more elegant and sophisticated. You can add warmth to the look, with highlights and low-lights after the base has been achieved. One could also disperse, highlights or low lights, working without an all over base colour. The advantage of this is less processing.

Some tips for dealing with Grey Hair.

When you do notice, the odd stray Grey hairs poking their way through, don’t automatically go for, a full-head permanent tint. Often a semi-permanent colour will be sufficient. Failing this, camouflage with a few highlights or low-lights.

At this stage we want to work with the Grey.

Use the lowest chemistry possible, as much as possible,work with what you have,  embrace it. A good stylist or technician should advise a client to. Opt for multi-tonal colour, It looks more natural, the re-growth is less likely to show after a couple of weeks.

Avoid high fashion hair colouring techniques, mutton dressed as lamb, not a good look for any one! Who wants to look cheap. A more glamorous technique is far more attractive – think about the image you want to project. A gorgeous hair colour can look amazing on older woman.The wrong colour or technique can look dreadful.

As stylists we have many things to consider, when dealing with issue of Grey hair. The options available to us are many. The techniques. The formulations. The products. But in the end, it’s the consultation and advise we give that is so important. Take the time to listen.

The most important tools we have are. Education. Training. Knowledge. It’s these skills that enable us to, make an informed decision to advise as to what might be, The best way to proceed.

The choices could be. Permanent colour. Semi or Demi permanent. Highlights or low lights. You must be able to explain options.

From a clients point of view. There is so much hype on the Tv, the choices are endless. What colour should it be It’s a really minefield of. Products and Shades, all claiming that  their home colours can. Change your life. Make you look and feel younger.

That quick fix colour. Especially those 10 minute colours, they can contain more pigment than peroxide, so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit, In some cases going black, they also have a tendency to fade really quickly.

I have found. Blogging is great way to meet and make contacts and net work.

I have recently been, Swapping thoughts and idea’s with other professional hairdresser and consultant whilst discussing Grey issues, we shared these thoughts.

Quote:

The whole Grey issue can be a real pain, I get image consultants saying.

“If you go Grey you should allow the Grey to show through if you are cool toned”

and I have to explain that most people don’t get an even blanket of Grey

they have the most horrible patches of it.

Then every hairdresser under the sun seems to use 20 volume to cover Grey

and if they are dark haired it kicks up tons of warmth i try and explain another

approach and way to cover Grey is with 10 volume as it deposits colour into

the white hair but doesn’t lift the non white hair – but they seem to think you

are mad when you suggest this.

                           Formulation For professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.           

Pre-pigment. Sometimes called softener. Having established the natural level of the hair, select a neutral shade. Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes.

After 10 minutes. Mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide. I suggest the lowest volume possible. Apply directly over pre-fill.

Points to Consider. Rule of thumb when mixing a formulation for Grey hair. The formulation should contain as much of, The neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this}  40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use. High volume of peroxide, you should adjust your formulation to. Deliver more pigment to control. Those being. The warm undertone you are going to expose, instead of standard formulation.

Mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide. { normal formulation 1part colour to 11/2 developer}

If your working with a client who. Has a history of using over the counter colour. Then establish what the product being used was, If possible ask them to bring the package in with them.

In all case a stand test is strongly advised. Some of the colour’s now days have an oil and silicone base. this can build up in the hair may effect deposit. So in closing consider, all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

A little knowledge is dangerous. Total knowledge is power! great products help!

Have a consultation. Get professional advise before making a decision, be well informed. Do not trust what the box says if doing home colour. Get informed have a  professional consultation.

As a stylist. Think about all the issues, advise giving all the options, Including what it will take to maintain this colour, advising on home use retail products.

Thank Mike B2MR

Quote

Comment by Karen Lynch. http://thesalonsuccessclub.ning.com/

Thank you! Every hairdresser should read this! I’ve been hairdressing about a hundred years (lol) and I am amazed (now I am a client), how many times my tint is not correct. Too warm or transparent. Most hairdressers would say this is basic stuff and that they know it. But I challenge that they don’t … Readers, send this on to others to read! 🙂

 
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Posted by on September 26, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Alkalinity Ph. The Hair colour process


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

It’s all about!  The hair’s natural Ph level and alkalinity! Do you understand it?

 

 

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!

As Hairdressers when considering doing hair colour .We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, but more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no Ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the Semi Demi but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

 

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

 

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

 

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle.Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. 

Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!

                                            Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

 

                                  review of a Ph balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart:

When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss,

the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

 

                               Three layers of the hair structure.  

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful MikeB2MR

 

 
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Posted by on August 19, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

Tags: , , , , ,

Alkalinity of hair colour:


Get educated not mislead!

no pictures just facts!

Get educated not mislead!

no pictures just facts!

When doing hair colour as stylist we owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible but more than that give the best service and advise possible suggest colour that works with skin tone eye colour. work with the best products available understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair what condition with it leave the Hair in.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia, however no Ammonia does not always mean great condition some times we sacrifice one evil for another when no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is present it has to be for the colouring process to work

we are talking permanent colour. not that Semi Demi to cannot be misleading in their chemical makeup!

It’s all so complicated education, technical knowledge. a greater understanding of the products  that you are using is essential Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured, do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? the damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

IT GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes most hair colour lines have high lift range these again have an Alkaline what ever that may be but to get that extra lift many companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! they don’t normally advertise this. So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia. can any one enlighten me?

Definition:

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some way above these levels.

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

So as we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!

Thank you!

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

 
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Posted by on June 2, 2010 in Hair Colour

 

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Ammonia free colour PPD free / safe !is it:


Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:
PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-
Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller. created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?}
same old same old MEA based from ethanol- Ammonia see a pattern.
Ammonia Friend or foe!

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:
Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.
Like all alkaline’s, ammonia tends to separate the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.
Detergent also an Alkaline mix detergent and small amount ammonia we have a foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!

Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.
The larger the volume of the developer the greater the amount of sulphur or sulfpur is removed from the hair loss of sulphur causes hair to harden and lose weight this is why for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:
It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.
Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors.
There are also said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.
However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain Alcohol for example.

So it makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour!
Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.

Types Of Products:

Dyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling.
Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!
You are unique and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!
You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences. Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment).
In most case the skin colour  and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.

I have posted this article with pictures on my Blog:  http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/ this can also be found via my web page below.
http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/ my web site
.http://uk.linkedin.com/in/mikevallanceb2mr
Join me see my profile and Bio on linked in.

 
Comments Off on Ammonia free colour PPD free / safe !is it:

Posted by on April 27, 2010 in HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,

 

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