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Hair structure.The science the chemistry.


 Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                         Understanding hair structure:

To be a good hair colourist we have to know so much to understanding. How the hair structure works. What role it plays is key to  successful colouring. In order to understand the dynamics of hair colour we need to look at the hair’s inner structure and understand how it is affected and changed in the colour process.or any chemical process we apply.We also have to keep up with the changing chemistry of the products we use.We have to understand how they react on the hair. What is the chemistry in that tube of colour pigment or that relaxer.Is it safe can i trust it! Blind faith or trusting the sales rep is not enough!

The Cuticle:

The protective outer layer of the hair shaft the Cuticle is made up of Translucent overlapping layers of keratin protein.

Each layer completely encompasses the hair shaft.

Imagine a stack of paper cups that might give you a visual image of the Cuticle.

Just as you might be able to bend a stack of cups without pulling apart the structure of the hair has the same pliability.The cuticle affords the hair about 25% of its strength.When the Cuticle is healthy it will lie flat against the hair shaft light will reflect of the translucent layers allowing the hair to appear to shine.

When we perform a chemical service on the hair perming or colour the Cuticle has to be opened to allow any chemical process to penetrate into the cortex. To do this one has to change the natural Ph of the hair to do this we have to use an alkaline. in it’s natural state healthy hair has a ph of around 5.5. In the past ammonia has been the main driver of this part of the colouring process but it has always been though to cause damage and tends to smell.

More recently most of the major hair colour companies have been promoting healthy all natural products personally i find this marketing misleading now the catch words are herbal, organic, natural, unfortunately the products now driving the colour are MEA and Denatured Alcohol are they any less drying and damaging to the cuticle ? You decide! They all serve to open the cuticle they are all an alkaline. Personally i would rather know the strength of the ammonia in a colour rather than work with an unknown many professional hair colours did have quite high levels of ammonia i can live with ).4% up to2%.

Many Colour companies have replaced having bees wax as a buffer in hair colour with oil and silicon based chemistry.Naturally after any chemical service the the correct Ph level must be restored to close the cuticle and restore that natural looking sheen a chemical balancing product is good for this it will restore the hair back to a pH  of around 5.5.

The same applies when relaxing hair much talk and discussion about Keratin based products. Along with the relaxers comes the issues of chemistry disclosed and reactions caused. major discussions on Formaldehyde gas or vapours  being produced and now the new safer term Aldehydes watch out for both.

see past topic: http://back2myroots.co.uk/2012/02/29/what-is-an-aldehyde-you-need-to-know/

The Cortex:

The Cortex makes up the bulk of the hair shaft the Cortex is composed of Keratin protein and 19 Amino acids. Keratin is a natural fibrous protein cross linked by sulfur bonds in the cortex the inner structure of the hair is known as the helix. When the hair is wet it is quite fragile as we dry the hair the keratin starts to harden and becomes stronger. We also find covalent and ionic bonds these are also effected by chemical services. Keratin as i have said is another well marketed product. Found naturally in the hair. By definition when added to products it must be good healthy natural! Most hair products that have Keratin in them may well be source or derived from. Animal. Vegetable or mineral. All being natural organic. Keratin from these sources will only lie on the out side of the hair with over use they can make the hair slightly brittle Keratinisation. Given the cost restrictions and the hydrolisation process for human hair keratin extraction most companies opt for the cheaper sources Although these can and will give the sheen and make the hair look healthy they do not penetrate through the cuticle layer of hair. { molecular size is to Big 500}   The only keratin able to penetrate into the hair has to be hydrolyzed human hair Keratin.{molecular weight 150-300 able to penetrate the hair}

Fact {Hair is 89%protein and 10% moisture} so the only keratin that really can help the hair on an internal level is sourced from human hair.

picture above: healthy shining highlighted hair with Multi tones:

The medulla:

The medulla is the inner layer or center of the hair shaft, it is made up of softer Keratin protein than in the cortex it could be best described as being like raw sponge part of the  Medulla function is linked to the bodies excretory system. Understand the roles of the above layers is key to performing good chemical services on the hair.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

The Above facts are well worth having in your tool kit of knowledge when performing Chemical services on the Hair!

Mike B2MR:


 

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Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


 

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Alkalinity and Ph. The process of hair colouring.


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         

As Hairdressers when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in. Spend some time reading the technical manual in the colour chart know and trust your product.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the same in Semi or Demi colour but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an alkaline it can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. 

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research! I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

                                       review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart: When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss, the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

                               Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

Ok a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour. Now we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful
MikeB2MR
 

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Hair colour History and useful facts


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR 

A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related. 

Brief history and some sound information on the chemistry and development of all hair colour be it for professional or home use.

Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:

PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-

Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural      dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?}  As does the newest colour  delivery system  MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.

                                           Ammonia Friend or foe!

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:

Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

Like all alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.

Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!

Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting colour.

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:

These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract, not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today.

It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.

Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colours.

These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of  most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based .These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.

However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils.

It makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour! 

Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.

Types Of Products:

Hair colour dyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling.

Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!

We are  all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!

You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment). 

In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.

It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision. understanding the colour wheel and trusting it will help in this process.

My hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR

 

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Permanent hair colour! other options.


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR:

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

A place to share thoughts review hair colour and products.

Recently I was lucky enough to spend some time with a group of young stylist’s all full of new and creative idea’s a willingness to learn. But still not willing to question or maybe think beyond the basic teachings. when it comes to choices of colour formulation or product chemistry.

For me know how a product works is good but also knowing what are the chemicals in it are they safe are there any side effects is also key.

Hair colouring; Much more time could be spent considering colouring options and formulations. What is the best option  what formulation will give me the best result with the least chemical damage?

Indeed basic’s with or with out ammonia herbal natural organic what’s the difference? Basic questions well to me it seems.

What is Demi colour?  How does it fit in? With permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It’s main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish. For tone on tone and darker application with the need for lift.

When going tone on tone and darker consider do i need lift? do i want warmth?

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer. So little chance of introducing unwanted warmth into target colour.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle and to some degree in the Cortex. Although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol required to activate the colour molecule during the development process.

As stylist we have many things to consider when dealing with issue of Grey hair.

The options available to us are many the techniques the formulations the products.

The most important tool we have have is knowledge and education this is what enables us to make an informed decision as to what might be the best way to proceed.

The choices should it be permanent or semi or Demi application ? you must be able to explain options from a clients point of view with so much hype on the Tv the choices endless what colour should it be.  It really is a minefield of products shades all claiming that  home colours can change your life make you look and feel young.

Rich hot vibrant all possible with tone on tone demi deposit!

The quick fix especially those 10 minute colours contain more pigment than peroxide so they oxidize really quickly and can over deposit in some cases going black! or leaving unwanted tone as they fade out.

Formulation:  for professional colour on stubborn Grey hair.

Pre-pigment sometimes called softener: Having established the natural level of the hair select a neutral shade Mix one part permanent colour with one part water leave on for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes  mix your selected target colour with chosen volume of peroxide suggest the lowest volume possible apply directly over pre-fill a Demi application formula is ideal for this

Points to Consider rule of thumb when mix a formulation for Grey hair the formulation should contain as much of the Neutral series as their is Grey! { mistake often made poor assessment of this} 40% Grey 40% N series at desired level.

If you really have to use high volume of peroxide you can adjust your formulation to deliver more pigment to control the warm undertone you are going to expose.

Instead of standard formulation mix equal parts 1x Colour to1x Peroxide { normal formulation 1part colour to 1 1/2 developer}

If your working with a client who has a history of using over the counter colour then establish what the product was! visually inspect the hair feel it.do a strand test! long term use of over the counter colour can create many issues.  Drop a small sample in a glass of water see if it floats! If it sinks and it may do. This might suggest that the hair is lacking moisture and will not hold colour! .

Look for banding. look for hot roots. look for drab ends. consult research question!

In some case a stand test might be advised. so of the colour’s now days have oil and silicone this can build up in the hair may effect deposit.

So in closing consider all options when dealing with Grey issues remember this.

To get the very best results consider you options always try and go with the least chemistry possible keep accurate records of formulations and results. This way formulations can be adjusted until perfect balance is reached.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour. Is it Herbal, organic,natural or chemical?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

                                   Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market. I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across them.With so many manufacture’s producing and making claim so so many innovative colour break throughs we have to take some time to try and understand what is on offer.What makes them so different in. How they work. What they do. What we can expect from them we have to know and understand the chemistry of all such products.

Claims that is natural health and organic are not enough.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA.

http://mike-b2mr.blogspot.com/2011/03/hair-colour-and-alkalinity-ph.html

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote: below.

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them so i can share a review with you all.Sadly nothing was ever forth coming!

I am now waiting fro some information on another colour line so stay tuned!

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 

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Home hair colour. Choices and consequences.


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

 

 

One of the biggest dangers that consumers face when heading down to. The supermarket . Chemist. Drug. Store .Searching the hair color aisle is a daunting process and sometimes impulsiveness.

Lack of knowledge. To much choice. To little direction and helpful information.

Don’t assume that because the biggest print on the box says Ammonia free all natural that it’s safe!

Pictures of half an Avocado, suggesting health and shine.

 

If it’s permanent colour with no Ammonia it has something else doing the same job be that MEA or De alcoholised grain extract. So its buyer beware get informed!

(Image of models on the boxes promoting that look that natural colour}

 

Celebrities and advertising gurus have heavily promoted the idea that if you change your hair color, you instantly transform your life.

 

While that concept may potentially be true in some cases, any home hair coloring projects undertaken in haste could result in months of growing out regrets.

Is it possible to create a magical perfect hair color? Yes! Just Wave a wand and get that home hair color with natural hues with success?  Although more complicated coloring projects should be outsourced to a professional colorist. With some careful planning and consultation every thing is possible.

A list of realistic expectations and a little patience, new shades of beautiful blonde, radiant red, and chocolate brown, can all be possible.

But it is buyer beware and pitfalls can and do often happen. Trying to go from one shade to another trying to jump to one colour to another totally different colour issues with over processing!

Oh! they forgot to mention that on the box!

 

Things to Know and consider.

Temporary – Lasts through 1-2 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle but does not usually contain peroxide or ammonia.  Will not lift color but will deepen, brighten or enhance existing color but may well chemical properties to help deposit a little.

Semi-Permanent – Lasts 4-6 shampoos.  Coats outside of cuticle and down to next layer.  Generally is free of peroxide or ammonia.  May be more permanent in some situations again by changing the Ph of the hair the colour will deposit last longer in some cases.

Demi-Permanent – Lingers through up to 20 shampoos.  Deposits color between cuticle and cortex.  May contain some peroxide and/or ammonia.

Permanent – Cuticle is opened and color is deposited down into the cortex.  Contains peroxide and ammonia. Color lasts until it grows out, is cut off or is re-colored.

Highlights – Lifts pigments from the cortex. Contains peroxide, bleach and ammonia.

Double Process Color – Cuticle is first opened and hair is lightened 4-6 levels with peroxide, ammonia and bleach.  New color is then deposited via a toner into the cortex through the cuticle.

 

While Temporary, Semi and Demi-Perm hues are generally considered “safe”  “there are always exceptions to every hair rule”. sometimes the Chemistry of these colours is misleading. Changing the Ph of hair changes the way colour will deposit.

For example, In “some situations, “wash out” tones may become “permanent” if applied to strands that are porous or damaged from previous bleaching or chemical treatments.”

 

What does this mean exactly?  That if you apply a temporary color to strands that are damaged and thus “porous” or more absorbent than normal, the color will seep down deep into the cortex and may permanently stain.  Thus repeated attempts to wash out the color will be ineffective.

If you’re brand new at the shade changing game consider products with training wheels such as temporary, semi or demi-perm colors  that last only through a series of shampoo treatments.

Once you get the hang of coloring with temporary colors, you can step up to the permanent colors that lasts until it grows out, hair is cut or a new hue is applied.

 

But be aware that over time colour desired and used might need to be adjusted. also over time the condition of hair coloured on a regular bases can and will change.

In some cases the colour used on re growth might be different from colour needed to match in the mid length and ends.

Note:  If you are unsure how your strands will adopt to hair color, dial the toll free help lines provided with most home hair color kits or skip the home color exercise and contact a professional colorist.

 

So many choices so many shades so much to consider! maybe it’s time to have a no obligation consultation with a Professional Stylist. Before making that leap of faith into the unknown world of hair colour! Mike B2MR

Quote:

Hey Mike,

I am loving the blog, great information and wonderful layout.  Sheila Szonyi

 
Comments Off on Home hair colour. Choices and consequences.

Posted by on July 29, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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