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Tag Archives: Ammonia

Hair colouring: Lift, shade, deposit and tone:


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR: Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Following on from previous postings on.the following topic’s:

The colour wheel .The law of color as it relates to hair colouring. The Ph scale and the chemistry of hair.

It’s now time to look developers lift tone deposit and how they work:

                permanent colour requires cream colour 20 vol

The dyes lift the hair natural pigment and deposit a new artificial colour at the same time. Working in conjunction with our chosen developer as the lifting process starts. We lighten the hair thus exposing natural lightened pigment as our chosen developer or hydrogen peroxide lifts the hair lighter, so more pigment is exposed this pigment becomes part of our colour equation.

The Colour it’s self an oxidative dye pigment remains inert until mixed with hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction]

With all hair colouring the key to success is Formulation, application and timing.choosing the incorrect shade can cause issues as can using the wrong strength of developer. Its a fine balance.

The different strengths and uses are as follows:

Uses:

Demi lotion

*5 Vol less no lift only works with the artificial pigment molecules.

*10vol [ 3%]

*Will only expose the pigment at the given level. zero lift from level to another.

* suitable for tone on tone or darker.

* can be used fro toner deposit on pre- lightened hair. i would consider using a demi    application in this instance.

*Covering some examples of Grey hair.

*pre-softening  resistant hair.

*Refreshing a tint, again i would consider a demi application for deposit only.

20vol [6%]

*All regular root applications [virgin hair application]

* Will produce one level of lift. That being for example lifting through level 6 exposing pigment expected at a level 7 [ see colour wheel]

30vol[9%]

* 2 to3 levels of lift . That being for example lifting 6 to level 8 exposing pigment at that level.If confused about three level 6 to 8 consider it has to lift through the pigment at level 6 before exposing the pigment and a level 7 and finally through level 8. see chart below count off level 6 to 8?

40vol [12%]

3 to 4 levels of lift,the same rule applies as above.  expecting anything other than a high level lift formulation will not achieve lift from a level 6 to10. amount of lift and pigment exposed will always be an issue in this instance. think 6 to 9!

In some cases a high lift blonde formulation can achieve desired lift this is due to the following.

* For high lift blonde formulation. The mixing ratio normally increase the ratio of hydrogen peroxide in the formulation to 1 part colour to 2 parts developer always check the product you use for directions. they can also in some cases have other chemical properties added to aid in the lift and deposit needed to reach target colour.

*High lift blonde shades. Normally have a more concentrated amount of pigment to work with the pigment exposed in the lifting process depending on choice of shade. They also have a longer process time due to level of peroxide being used to attain this degree of lift. It is always worth considering lift required and in some cases a bleach lightener / decolourizer may be required to attain desired degree of lift.

As an example lets look on the chart at undertone orange {orange as we know is made up of red and yellow} so to bring balance to a correct level 7 we would look for a shade with a blue pigmentation or tone.

Hydrogen peroxide will only release the oxygen molecule required when in an alkaline state this is why oxidative dye products require the presence of ammonia or some other alkaline some derived  from a natural sauce. [making them herbal]. This returns the hydrogen peroxide to its natural alkaline state and allows it to release oxygen freely.  The ammonia also acts as the engine drawing the colour under the opened cuticle helping it penetrate the cortex where it becomes fully developed.

To simplify:

The artificial colour molecule is drawn into the hair under the partially opened cuticle. the cuticle having been lifted by the ammonia that is now drawing the colour molecule into the cortex. The Hydrogen peroxide in the formulation is lightening the hairs natural melanin whilst at the same time the oxygen released is swelling the artificial pigment within the cortex and hair shaft trapping it deep inside the hairs structure.

True colours:

This would be degrees of Brown or our N series these are designed to have enough artificial pigment to control the pigment exposed at any given level. working with a max of 20vol [6%] higher levels will require consideration of desired target. warm or cool or do you want to neutralise or utilise the pigment exposed at any given level. We did say this was quite a big topic, it would be a long journey.Problems that can arise from permanent colour normally due to over processing. Damage to the cuticle it becomes raised cannot retain colouur [P/h issue]. Lack of moisture due to heat styling/exposure to the sun and element such as chlorine. Wrong formulation. Excessive colouring,

Lack of Grey coverage is normally a formulation and timing issue. poor assessment in the consultation process of amount of Grey so amount of N series required in formulation.Wrong choice of developer, correct development time. wash of to soon dye molecules that have not had time to develope and bond are washed away.Hair that is resistant to colour closed cuticle very resistant Grey hair. Pre-soften  with a formulation using either Demi lotion or 10 vol with natural level N series. leave for 20 minutes wash off with cold water, before apply target formulation.

                  low vol developer ideal for colour balancing

The advantages of permanent colour.

*Can permanently change hair colour.

*will lighten hair deposit colour or tone colour simultaneously.

*100% of Grey or white hair with correct formulation

.*Durability.

*versatility.

*soften or pre pigment hair,can add texture due to a more open cuticle.

Finally in closing this section in the consultation process it should be explained to clients their expected commitment when choosing permanent colour. My advise would always be chose the path with the least chemistry as possible to start with.

*Roots will need re touching between 4 to 6weeks,

* colour can fade on damaged or over processed hair. colour balancing is key to colour pigment retention.

*Danger of allergic reaction Always do a skin test. prior to any chemical service.

Colour balancing is required to refresh colour that is being re touched, The formulation on the root or re growth will be different to that required for the previously coloured mid lengths and ends both in choice of shade and developed used. 0 lift on pre coloured area!

Take a break digest remember it’s a lot to take in digest understand.

Finally: Herbal or Organic Colour: These have a arrived in recent years with a fan fair of hype marketed as being. Ammonia free, all natural,conditioning.  bla bla bla!  sorry only my opinion but as we have discussed an alkaline has to be present for the colour process to work. So yes you have to consider the level of ammonia in the product you chose or an alternative. Hair colour still needs driver an engine in most organic or herbal colours the ammonia is replaced with either denatured alcohol. In some cases detergent derived products,they all serve to act as an alkaline. Denatured alcohol is derived from grain fermentation this process produces alcohol and indeed bio fuel. this acts as the replacement for ammonia but because it’s derived from grain it’s classed as being Herbal natural. it’s your choice as to the organic route or not the process of lift and depsoit is the same as for permanent colour. We are now flooded with adds marketing HERBAL, NATURAL, ORGANIC, Ammonia free products without being given any idea of what the replacement chemistry might be.How it works or what it does. Why don’t we ask questions? seek answers? Why are we so trusting? This colour chemistry revolution is already in home colour hair kits.They promote safety healthy hair. Quick fix ammonia free colour. Is this really professional? The question i ask is simple is it really a new innovation? is it really any less harmful than Ammonia?

Thoughts on new MEA: As engine to drive colour instead of Ammonia? MEA is derived from Ethanolamine !  also Denatured Alcohol used as ammonia substitute why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? .

Some useful facts:

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

2. Ammonia is a gas.

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile.

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour.

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

7. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

8. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

9. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely

untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

10. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

11.Organic colour uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly.The MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

My hope is that some find this useful and that it makes you question. What your use and why! Is it really so natural organic and healthy!!!!!!

Mike B2MR


 

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Alkalinity and Ph. The process of hair colouring.


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!                         

As Hairdressers when considering doing  hair colour . We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in. Spend some time reading the technical manual in the colour chart know and trust your product.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the same in Semi or Demi colour but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an alkaline it can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. 

Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.
As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research! I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

                                       review of  aPh balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart: When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss, the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

                               Three layers of the hair structure.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

Ok a brief stop to review Ph now we can move onto developers with so much more knowledge of the colouring process.

Developers:

This really is such a huge topic and so important choosing the correct strength is the key to success. Developers play such a huge role in the degree of lift and deposit we decide upon, allowing us to expose the pigments we utilise in the hair colour process. The formulation we chose to attain our target colour is a a blend of chosen colour level of developer timing. It’s just like baking the perfect cake! Mess with the recipe it will fail.

Lets work off an example of level 6. Dark Blonde. 6N on most  international colour charts

Depending on the level of peroxide we opt to use. We are going to introduce colour or add undertone from the hairs natural Pigment. {remember level 6 } This gets a little complicated, mainly because in some circles we are mislead as to lift we should expect, from any given strength or volume of  Hydrogen Peroxide. 10 volume or 3% Peroxide: In some circles it’s suggested that it does not lift. I would disagree with this thinking.

The lift you get, is enough to expose the pigment in the hair at that given level. So on our level 6 we would expose Red Orange, by Introducing this warmth into our equation. We have to decide on the role  it plays, how will it influence our colour.

Do we want to Utilize or neutralize the shade exposed? At this point we should consult our shade chart and yes the colour wheel, choose the shade to do the job not just the shade that you like in the swatch! The higher the volume of peroxide the more lift the more pigment to consider.

Note: 

Take a look at a colour wheel if 10 is the lightest then it sits in the yellow segment.

So working from our level 6 what shade would we expose trying to get to level 10? is it possible to get their? lets see.

* 10=  pale yellow off chart

* 9 =    yellow

*8  =     yellow orange

* 7 =    orange

* 6 =    red orange

And so on down the scale.

Level 6 + 10 vol 3% 1 level  still level 6 but with pigment exposed. red orange

Level 6 + 20 vol 3% 2 levels through level 6 up to level 7 orange pigment exposed.

Level 6 +  30 Vol 9% 3 levels through level 6 and 7 into level 8 Yellow Orange pigment exposed.

Level  6 + 40 vol 12% 4 levels through level 6, 7, 8. and into level 9 exposing yellow but still a warm yellow.

4 levels of tint lift. Will not give you lift from level 6 to level 10 you will always struggle with the issue of warmth. { even with a high lift Blonde using adjusted formula with a violet base to neutralize the pigment exposed}.

You should be able to see from this example, that as we lift hair from it’s natural level we expose pigment.This exposed pigment becomes part of our colour formulation,  seeing as we have introduced this pigment into the colour equation  we have to  decide do we want to utilise it or neutralise it. thus creating our target colour. Now we can take time to review and digest the very key points raised for creating perfect colour.

Fact:

Ask your self this question which is the stronger 10 volume hydrogen peroxide or 40 volume?

be honest. I would say that 75% would say 40 Volume!

The fact is they are both the same. the only difference is the 40 vol stays active for longer.[see timing chart]

Think of it like this you have a glass of water in each hand. One glass has 1 alkali dissolving tablet in it this represents 10 vol. The second glass has 4 alkali dissolving tablets in it. This represents 40 vol strength wise they are the same, the only difference is the 4 tablets will fizz for longer.

The difference is not the strength is the longevity of the action in this case lifting! so we are back to formulation and timing.

Having made it this far on our Colour bus journey.We can now appreciate the careful balance that is hair colouring. Having a fuller understanding of the hair’s structure, how we can manipulate it’s Ph, to facilitate the hair colour process. Have a better understanding of lift deposit and how to utilise and neutralise the pigments we expose and use towards out target colour.

You can see the hair colouring process is quite complex and does require thought and knowledge when trying to achieve the very best results.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful
MikeB2MR
 

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Hairdressers Stylist. Do you know?


Back2myroots : A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

What do you know about Formaldehyde?

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ?

Some facts for us all to know and so i thought I would share some chemistry with those who might be interested. We owe it to ourselves our work mates and our clients to be informed. We have to make the right choices and also pass on the right information.

What do you know about Formaldehyde?  yes it’s found in many of the keratin relaxer!

What is Formaldehyde? What are the risks?

Formaldehyde is a colorless, flammable gas at room temperature. It has a pungent, distinct odor and may cause a burning sensation to the eyes, nose, and lungs at high concentrations. You are exposed to small amounts of formaldehyde in the air. It occurs from both natural and man made sources although combustion is the largest source. There is usually more formaldehyde present indoors than outdoors and is often used as a preservative. Formaldehyde is irritating to tissues when it comes into direct contact with them. Some people are more sensitive to the effects of formaldehyde than others. The most common symptoms include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, along with increased tearing, which occurs at air concentrations of about 0.4–3 parts per million (ppm). The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) states that formaldehyde is immediately dangerous to life and health at 20 ppm. The Department of Health and Human Services (DHHS) has determined that formaldehyde may reasonably be anticipated to be a human carcinogen. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) has determined that formaldehyde is probably carcinogenic to humans. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has determined that formaldehyde is a probable human carcinogen.  Given its known health risks, it is important to limit exposure to formaldehyde especially in high and repeated concentrations.

What are other names for Formaldehyde?

Formaldehyde is also known as methanal, methylene oxide, oxymethylene, methylaldehyde, oxomethane, formalin, aldehyde, formic aldehyde, formol, biformyl, glutaraldehyde, ethyl alcohol, methylene glycol, glyoxal

 

What do you know about Ammonia and MEA ? used as the active Alkaline in hair colour?

Monoethanolamine and Ammonia Fact Sheet

1. Monoethanolamine (MEA) is a stable alkaline liquid.

 2. Ammonia is a gas. 

3. MEA has a larger molecule than ammonia, which means it is less volatile. 

4. MEA does not give off gas when used in hair colour. 

5. Ammonia gas is given off when used in hair colour.

6. Ammonia gas can dissolve in water to form Ammonium Hydroxide, which is highly corrosive. This can occur on the skin, eyes and lungs if large enough amounts of gas are released. (Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc.)

7. The Danish government has banned the mixing of ammonia colours in the salon. They have to be mixed under an extraction system in a separate room.

8. The symptoms associated with specific ammonia concentrations are as follows:

0.6ppm-53ppm 25ppm-50ppm

Odour threshold. Irritation of the eyes and mucous membrane, which can be tolerated for several hours. Immediate irritation of the throat which may be tolerated for 1 hour.

100ppm-150ppm (Source MSDS sheet from Airgas Inc.)

9. Ammonia in small doses does not present a health risk.

10. Prolonged exposure of ammonia does present a health risk.

11. Many colours, including Matrix, use ammonia and monoethanolamine.

12. The argument that MEA has not been used long enough to be judged “safe” is completely untrue, it has been used for at least 30 years in hair colour.

13. There is no proof that ammonia washes off the hair and that MEA does not.

14. Tints of Nature uses oleic acid in the formulation specifically to neutralise MEA, so even if the colour was not washed off correctly, the MEA has been neutralised and would have no adverse effect on the hair.

I hope having read this it was helpful maybe pushes a few buttons raises some questions? If so seek out the answers ! We all have choice.

Mike B2MR

 

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Hair colour Herbal organic natural or chemical? Hum


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Looking At Hair colour products!

I do not claim to know or have knowledge about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products i come across. We owe it to our selves and indeed our clients to be informed have all the facts and information about new products as they come to the market place and so the salon.

Many colour lines now have so many ways of manipulating the way the colour is deposited what makes one bottle seem chemically safe for the may hide a different result when mixed with part B! some times low chemistry in parts A and B create a double trouble when mixed. read the formulation see what you are using. Stay and be informed be a true questioning professional.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See information brief description on MEA below in article. 

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information i sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote:

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them ,so i can share a review with you all

To be fair  I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions, questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one  the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, but why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N[natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10vol 3%.

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

So in preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

So as quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 
Comments Off on Hair colour Herbal organic natural or chemical? Hum

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Alkalinity Ph. The Hair colour process


Back2myroots :

A place to share thoughts and grow idea’s. B2MR

It’s all about!  The hair’s natural Ph level and alkalinity! Do you understand it?

 

 

When it comes to understanding the chemistry of hair colouring. Get educated not mislead!

As Hairdressers when considering doing hair colour .We owe it to our selves and indeed the client to do the best job possible, but more than that give the best service and advise possible, suggesting colour that works with skin tone and eye colour. Work with the best products available, understand the chemistry of the product how it works reacts with hair, what condition with it leave the hair in.

Many hair colours today claim great condition no Ammonia. However claims of no Ammonia does not always mean great condition, some times we sacrifice one evil for another. When no Ammonia is present in permanent colour another alkaline is introduced as a replacement or substitute.There has to be a presence of an alkaline for the colouring process to work

We are talking permanent colour.  The process is not the Semi Demi but they to can be misleading in their chemical makeup! So always get informed read the black stuff ask questions.

 

It’s all so complicated. Education, technical knowledge, a greater understanding of the products that you are using is essential. Understand what MEA is another favorite derived from Ethanolamine. Alcohol Denatured. Do you know what this is? It’s alcohol derived from fermented grain used as an Alkaline can be very drying but because a grain by product marketed as being natural! Very misleading

Why does Ammonia get such a bad wrap just because it smells ? The damage it can cause depends on the strength being used and the way applied timing, heat, temperature,

 

Ammonia! GET’S A BAD WRAP SO THEY CAN RELAUNCH OR SELL A NEW CONCEPT

High lift Blondes have an extra kick! Most hair colour lines have high lift blonde range, these again have an alkaline from some source however it may be that extra lift is promoted. In many cases companies also add  Ethanolamine to their high lift colour to open the cuticle more! They don’t normally advertise or disclose this fact it’s disclosed in the small print on the instructions on the paper work inside the box .

So why is MEA  such an  innovation? MEA now promoted to replace Ammonia can any one enlighten me?

Definition: 

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethlene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? Would you think that good for hair?

 

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Sounds good too!

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle.Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. 

Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia be aware some companies have levels way above this quite low level of working alkalinity.

The choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

As we can see although some companies portray natural less harmful chemistry it is not always the case. adding natural oils or waxes to protect scalp to make application easier are all part of this process.

This is why knowledge research are key and empowering when it comes to colouring hair and the choices we make on products must go beyond what the sales rep or promotion material say.

I am not trying to scare just inform encourage thinking research!

                                            Regular postings of fresh new topic’s.

I think that we also need to cover the important role that understanding Ph chart and the role that it plays in the hair colouring process and indeed the chemistry of all chemical services performed on the hair.

 

                                  review of a Ph balance chart.

A little help with Ph balance chart:

When we do any chemical service on the hair be it. Colour. Perming. Relaxing. We have to create an environment that enables us to get below the surface layer the cuticle layer of the hair ,

This is the outer layer that serves to protect the inner structure from both damage and moisture loss,

the inner layer being the cortex and Medulla.

Once we have decide on the service we are going to perform in this case colour. The formulation we choose will dictate the amount of deposit the more we open the cuticle the deeper the deposit.

So understanding Ph, lift, deposit, are key to being able to perform outstanding colour services.

 

                               Three layers of the hair structure.  

Healthy hair should have a Ph of 5 to 5.5  when we introduce an alkaline be it Ammonia which comes in many different strengths the stronger the more it will open the cuticle. The same can be said for other colour drivers MEA, Dealcoholised grain products. All serve the same purpose to manipulate the Ph of the hair to create an environment for performing any chemical service. The stronger the product the more the cuticle will be opened and the more damage can be done.

It is essential after a process to re balance the hair and close the cuticle and restore that natural balance of 5.5.

This can be done with a chemical balancing product these normally have a Ph of 2.5 when introduced to the hair it will close the cuticle and restore the ph balance of the hair to 5.5.

Always be aware to consider the hair condition and assess during consultation before deciding on any chemical service knowing and understanding the Ph of hair is key to keeping it healthy and allowing colour retention or retaining moisture after the perming process.

Part of the consultation process should address the condition, porosity, moisture level. issues of fading. colour retention. These are all things effected by the hair’s Ph level being at a correct level.

It is also during this consultation process to not only assess the hair both by touch and visual inspection. but through communication getting a fully in depth history of past products used and indeed products being used at this time.

With so many products that manipulate our Ph mantle opening the cuticle to deposit anything from stains to silicone based products that over time will build up in the hair, note they can cause issues when trying to get even deposit in the colouring process.

This is why it is essential that as stylist’s we have a good all round knowledge of products and how they work on the hair during any chemical process.

In closing it was brought to my attention by someone who sent me a question via a hair site about Ph saying that they could not find any information on the subject, I thought this very odd but having looked through the NVQ the offcial guide [Hairdressing foundation] I have to say  i find it very odd that this topic is not covered in some depth.

If you want information on topic’s to ask question go ahead use the section on the Blog.

I hope this is found useful MikeB2MR

 

 
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Posted by on August 19, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Avantgarde/ creative hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Herbal natural organic hair colour! Is it?


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR :

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s

Looking At Hair colour products!

 

I do not claim to know or have all the  knowledge or indeed answers about. All there is to know about all the different hair colours on the market.

I do try and keep up to date I do try and get information on all products I come across.

I tried to find out about INOA when it came out, I contacted L’oreal  they did not get back to me I asked them to explain why MEA is so new and exciting: no reply!

See past Blog for information on MEA

I was approached to write a review on my Blog on the re launch of Wella Blondor and Koleston Colour high lift Blonde:

They even offered to provided a press release. Nice but that is telling me what to say. I asked for some more information I sent a list of questions: no reply!

I have to think it’s new packaging maybe new formulation but maybe not that innovative?

 

Most recently i have been contacted by a an Organic hair colour company.

quote:

Mike,

I found a comment you wrote on Organic Color Systems web site.  Our company Saphir Hair Care have developed an Ammonia-Free color line that I would love to get your feedback on.  I would love to send you some samples in hope that you would give us honest feedback on our product.  Thank you for your time.

Nico Tricoci

Saphir USA

I have replied so hope that i hear back from them .So i can share a review with you all. sadly months later no samples!

To be fair I have been to the the Organic hair colour company web site they do have a very informative web site but it still raised questions. Questions that need answering. although i tried to talk with some one the person was always to busy

Questions

Why denatured grain alcohol? formulation for Grey coverage? why no colour balancing?

One of my big concerns with Grey formulations is that they are formatted to address the Grey Issues great for the roots, But why run that same formula through the rest of the hair. you cannot have generic formulation for Grey hair ie 50% what ever the amount of Grey!

At issues is the fact that the formula is for Grey hair and mix of natural  and target colour also level of peroxide so in running this into the mid lengths and ends two things happen.

One still running peroxide through hair that has already been coloured this promotes over processing and drab colour.

Also when hair has been previously coloured it does not need a formulation with peroxide colour balance would be Demi formulation also no need for Natural series in the formulation.

So an example of this might be 50%5N [natural] 50%5BR [Beige Red] putting this formulation on the roots of someone with 50% Grey would be fine for a roots application, but not to leave the said formula in a bowl and then running it through the mid lengths and ends!

The ends only need the 5BR formula and don’t need the now slightly gone off peroxide in said formula,

As a rule of thumb for Grey issues what ever the % of Grey is the amount of Natural series required in a formula, having said this when doing colour it is always advisable to know the base formulation of any Natural series with relation to warmth control. Grey hair still has Pigment so the stronger the peroxide the more warmth you will expose. I would suggest doing a pre fill and using as lower volume of peroxide as  possible start with 10 vol 3%.

So although trying it still misleading to call it all natural and certainly call the formulation education material up to date!

In preaching health and condition they need to look at what they preach and teach we as stylist need to keep asking these questions!

If we don’t have the knowledge if we don’t ask the question nothing ever changes we get what we are allow our selves to be sold and taken in by.

As quick review our options are.

MEA Monoethanolamine:

Can be used as a selective absorber and plays an important role in the production of Ammonia! MEA Monoethanolamine obtained from the reaction of ammonia and Ethylene. Ethylene a bio fuel so we are back to grain Alcohol! but derived from grain so natural! does this make it ok ? would you think that good for hair?

Definition:

Alcohol denatured:

A general term for organic ingredients that contain the OH (hydroxyl) group. Alcohols differ substantially in their properties ranging from water soluble solvents like isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Sounds good too ! I was recently looking at some drug store or over the counter hair colour. some companies put this denatured alcohol in both the colour and then the developer thus putting a higher level of alkaline in the final  mixed formulation.

Definition:

Ammonia:

An alkaline ingredient used in some permanent hair color. Ammonia is an ingredient that results in a chemical action that decolorizes the hair. A colorless, pungent gas, NH3,  first step in the nitrogen cycle. Ammonia is generated by fish urine and by the decay of dead fish and plant material. It is perhaps the deadliest agent to tropical fish. Care must be made to ensure that the ammonia levels stay at zero. Many professional hair colours have 0.4 to 1.2% Ammonia and some companies have levels way above this the higher the level the more damage can be caused!

So the choice dead decaying fish or fermenting Grain both really a natural source.

Professional Hair Colour Companies have to be help accountable to inform and be transparent about the formulation of there products and the education material should be informative and up to date.

 

http://www.back2myroots.co.uk/

To follow up on information on hair colour reviews techniques go to my web site click on Blog!

As always thanks for reading.  MikeB2MR

 
Comments Off on Herbal natural organic hair colour! Is it?

Posted by on August 18, 2011 in Ammonia free natural hair colour, Avantgarde hair, Beauty hair salon, Beauty hair style, Beauty tips, Blonde, Blonde highlights, Bridal hair, Bridal updo looks, brunette to Blonde, chemical reactions, Classic Chinion. The laws of colour, Colour correction, colour wheel laws of colour, colouring Grey hair, corrective colour chart, corrective hair colour charts, Creative Hair cuts, Foaming hair colour, freelance Mobile hair stylists, French Pleat, Full head hair bleach and tone, grey hair issues, Hair and style, hair chemistry, Hair Colour, hair colour education, Hair colour techniques, hair colour trends, hair colouring lift deposit, Hair Cuts, Hair cutting, hair cutting style, Hair cutting technique, hair cutting techniques, HAIR DRESSING INDUSTRY, TIPS TRICKS, THOUGHTS,, hair dressing training, Hair dressing training mentoring, Hair lift and deposit, Hair salon chair rental, Hair salon consultation, Hair salon service sales., Hair salon service's, Hair smoothers relaxers, Hair structure and Ph chart, Hair style, Hair style crative colour techniques, Hair stylist consultation, Hair Stylist standards, hair up/do formal, Hairdressing, hairdressing business, Hairdressing colour style trends, hairdressing education, hairstyle, Hiar colouring Methods skills, home hair colour, Keratin hair relaxer, Level 6 to 9 natural blonde hair, Lifting Dark hair with High lift colour, Lifting natural dark and warm hair shades, Metallic salts, Multi tonal low lights, Natural Blonde. want it!, natural level 7 to 9 blonde, Ombre hair colour, Qualification., Razor cut is cutting edge, REDS HOT AND COLD, Solid hair colour going lighter, Stylist's Certification, That special Day make it so!, The colour wheel, The Hair Salon, up do'd, Wedding day hair

 

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Hair Colour: Brief history and facts


Welcome to BACK2MYROOTS B2MR

Regular postings of fresh new topic’s,a place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

 

Brief history and some sound information on the chemistry and development of all hair be it professional or home.

Ammonia  PPD Free Hair Colour Ingredients:

 

PPD Free Hair Colour ingredients-

Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes. Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical paraphenylenediamine.{ has a petroleum ring to it does it not?} As does the newest colour  delivery system  MEA based from ethanol-Ammonia see a pattern.

 

 

Ammonia Friend or foe!

 

The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12 shampoos are:

Ammonia – This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with the peroxide.

Like all alkaline products ammonia tends to separate or open the cuticle and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair changes the Ph from our desired 5 to 5.5 to 7 and beyond.

Detergent are also an Alkaline when we mix detergent and small amount ammonia we can create a very basic foaming semi permanent or a shampoo rinse!

 

Hydrogen Peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) This ingredient in varying forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.

Hydrogen peroxide is made up of two atoms of oxygen and two of hydrogen H/2O/2 available in both cream and liquid form, In most professional salon found as a cream. Hydrogen peroxide is measured by % hairdressing professional refer to it as being measured in volume.[this relates to the volume of gas being released in the chemical reaction] for the majority of hair coloring the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

 

 

Alternatives to industrial  professional tints:

These would be known as natural hair colour derived from plants and root extract, not to be confused with some of the herbal ammonia free hair colour marketed today. 

It has been recorded historically that ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna, indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, and leeks.

Presently, there are some companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors.

 

These PPD.free products are said to be safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based .These products are available in a variety of different formats those being. Temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options.

However, these products typically do not last as long as industrial tints once again the engine driving the colour can be classed as herbal but it may be just as toxic as Ammonia! grain alcohol known as Denatured alcohol for example Silicone and oils.

 

So it makes sense to use a reputable, ethical, safe hair colour!

Good luck with this still not convinced these companies are totally honest in the way they represent the product or the chemistry of the formulation.

 

Types Of Products:
Hair colourDyes are available today in all forms. Liquid, powder, oil, cream and gel, etc. Mascaras, crayons and sprays are used as temporary and semi-permanent dying, whereas gel and other forms are used for permanent styling.

Once again the products all have a different edge hook oil, silicone, metallic salt. wax. the list goes on!

We are  all unique! and no one else has exactly the same hue as you!

You might look black, brown, red or blonde, but there are subtle differences.Amazingly nature creates a different dye for everyone using only two types of the natural pigments “melanin”: umelanin (black pigment) and pheomelanin (red/yellow pigment).

In most case the skin colour and tone our eye colour all those different flecks and indeed our hair colour a multitude of shades tones all make us unique and normally compliment each other.

It is all of these pigments that we encounter when deciding to embark on hair colouring. It is this pigment and levels natural shade that we consider when making decisions on a new colour formulations. Knowing what products are how they work the chemistry of any given products is key to being successful and making the correct colour choice and formulation decision.

 

I hope this has helped you a little please leave comments views and thoughts Mike B2MR

 

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