Tag Archives: Application

Pre lightening hair. Bleaching lift pigment tone.


A place to share thoughts post comments and idea’s on matters relating to hair colouring skill and techniques and anything industry related.

                               how not to bleach!

How to Bleach your hair:

A huge topic with so many different answers options variables.

Above i found this information for bleaching a head maybe it was put up in jest if that was the case it’s in bad taste and dangerous in content or lack there of. If not in jest then very dangerous if taken seriously by some one. We should always consider the content of what we post and the damage bad information can do !

Lets look at it in a little depth:

Step one suggested supplies.

I would suggest for an on scalp bleach an oil bleach rather than a powder. {why} powder bleach is harsh on the scalp, has a tendency to dry out creating patchy lift.

Oil bleach mixed with booster will give even lift and will not dry out. { Do not mix with any higher volume of peroxide than 20vol} Skin test and possible stand test is advisable.

*If a virgin application start at the ends  work up to roots, the roots will always lift the fastest.

*If a re-application try not to over lap re-growth application over hair already bleached.

*If trying to lift out one fashion shade to apply another go carefully don’t just slap bleach all over remember this hair has already been lifted so is fragile. You may well encounter  build up of colour the ends may well be harder to lift.Compromise and toning may be required .Do not just keep bleaching!! hair can only take so much abuse!

As i said many variables to lift out residue of old fashion shade try Clarifying shampoo or a bleach bath Shampoo bleach washed through and worked into hair. {if doing this stay with it constantly watching} as pigment and or toner is removed

                          If making up a cocktail to lift old shades out try.

*1/2 oz Clarifying shampoo.

*1oz      Water.

*1oz       20 vol peroxide {or cream developer}

*1 oz      powder bleach.

Apply to clean towel dried hair, work through on area needing lift for 5 to 10 mins. watching all the time wash out rinse thoroughly.

Got side tracked as is aid huge topic, foil is not advisable for an all over application some schools of thought advocate heat, i do not!

The biggest heat loss in the body is through the head so why not use this if heat is required a plastic bag over the application with suffice. { heat only seems to speed up the process but given that the formulation for lift is dependent on the volume of peroxide chosen why rush it’s a process} 

Lets Touch on second stage mix powder bleach until creamy!

How informative is that!  normally direction and mixing instruction come with products they need to be followed, the goal is to get the correct mix of lifting agent to peroxide.

With powder bleach normally 1-part Bleach decolourizer powder to 2-parts peroxide but follow each products instructions:

No Mention of Gloves!!

                                                       [as stated on scalp no more than 20 vol}

example of colour home kit  contents on right oil base with boosters:

below on left natural level  on right lift attained

I recommended oil bleach this comes with a bottle of liquid+sachets of powder you can mix one or two sachets or boosters with the correct amount of liquid. mix together until a gel then add the recommended    amount of peroxide mix thoroughly.

Another option for removing  some of the fashion shades is Colour remover it works very well but i must state that some of the fashion shades really stain  heavy build up of staining can cause problems.

                          lifting agent bleach powder:

Hair Lighteners:  Powder Bleach, Oil or Gel.

Before Embarking On lightening hair one has to understand the chemistry of the product and how the process works.

Hair Lighteners come in many forms and are designed to remove Colour from the hair.Basically they are Alkalisers.

How do these work:

They are products that supply Sufficient Alkali to destabilise hydrogen peroxide, when the two products are mixed together the Hydrogen attacks the pigment in the hair and Lightens it.

Hydrogen Peroxide is Stabilised in a bottle with a low Ph around {3.00-3.5} adding the lightener be it {powder or liquid-gel} brings the mixture up to a Ph of around 9.0 triggering oxygen release.

Types of Lighteners:

Bleach powder Lighteners are for the most part Stronger and faster acting, Generally used for off scalp Lightening application. { always do skin and stand test} Lifting Ability depends on the strength of hydrogen peroxide.

Lotions Oil -Gel:             

These have a smoother consistency and are formulated to protect the skin/ scalp from the lightening process.

 {Be advised that adding heat/ dry or steam will change the way these products react: powder bleach can dry out under heat!


The chemical Structure of lighteners are Ammonia.Ammonia hydroxide,Magnesium silicate,and sodium. quite the mix all lighteners have to be mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

{ Be advised hair that has been coloured with any kind of metallic rinse, colour or stain, will create a heat reaction that can cause burning so do your home work!}

When to use:

A key tool for colour correction, but generally they are used when other products available cannot give the desired degree of Lightening.{ Remember High lift Tint will only give max 4levels of lift when mixed with 40vol Peroxide} 

Uses: High-lights, pastel blonde look when hair is strongly or pigmented darker shades.

Mixing:  Always follow Instructions on each given product! for lotions/gel /oil double amount of Hydrogen peroxide is often called for. lotions and lighteners/Booster powders must always be mixed in Sequence,{note: mixed out of sequence can result in uneven lift!}

Stages of Lightening:

When lifting /lightening hair it goes through what is known as the 7 stages of lift. it has no limits it can remove all pigment form the hair.

Remember the Colour wheel: {you can see shades in the outer} wheel      

The stages are as follows.

Red-Brown. Red. Red-orange. orange-yellow. yellow -orange.

yellow.pale yellow.

The first colour is always the stronger shade!

The deeper the base shade the more stages of lift required its a journey don’t rush it.


*lightens hair.

*Can be used for colour Correction.

*Adds Texture.


*re-growth needs to be maintained.

*Can damage hair.

*Can cause Skin irritation.

* Hair should be protected form Uv -sun light.

Summing Up:

A very useful Tool for us to have but should be respected and understood, I advocate the best path is the one with the least chemistry possible.

Lets re touch on bleach bath/ Cocktail:

What is a bleach bath used for? It is a tool that we have at our disposal to gently lift unwanted pigment from the hair. It is classed as the first line of attack when doing Colour correction:

One would use this formula to lift pigment {note it does not remove pigment} prior to toning or adding your fun colour.

As i have stated before if you are going bright red you don”t need to remove all pigment yellow or orange is fine! if you want true blue you have to get rid of the yellow toning would do this!

Formula for Cocktail. 1/2 OZ Clarifying shampoo 1oz water. 1oz 20 vol peroxide or developer. 1oz/or scoop of bleach.

Wet hair wear Gloves apply and work into your hair for 10 to 15 mins. wash out really well if you don’t get enough lift don’t give up mix up second batch re apply. don’t rinse out re-apply the water stops the action. Remember lift is all about timing;and observation.

It is a miss conception in thinking that 40vol is stronger than 20 vol not true its just long lasting in how long it lifts for {How long the hydrogen gas re acts the oxygen}.

What is toner

                              High lift Blonde series:

Toner is basically a tube or bottle of pigment no peroxide designed to neutralize the unwanted pigment you have exposed or created.  deposit only no lift when using toner you need to watch what you are doing it keeps on working so you decide on the tone you want!

All these shades are toners:

B/green/orange base beige neut pale yellow.

G/ yellow/orange base gold

V/ red/ blue Violet neut yellow

A/blue /yellow Green Ash neut orange   

To the right a classic case for toning in my view way to yellow gold?

What would you do here?

To Beige this out lose the warm root hue Violet Toner is required

worked into the hair for a few minutes it will neutralize the warmth

their is no exact time for toning it’s a visual hands on exercise.

do not apply and walk away thinking 20 minutes should be fine!

you may well get over deposit and sludge!

A really well done look both bleaching and tone look good and very natural. How things should be done.


I found the above sight they have a product for doing skin allergy testing worth a look!

Here is some information on the above product with so many chemicals and trace elements in colours a topic to be covered very soon  one cannot be to careful.

Quote from sight:

Colourstart is a unique patch test used by hairdressers as a skin allergy test. These tests help the hairdresser to check if clients are likely to have a problem with hair dye. The alternative is often unpopular and impractical for clients. Colourstart is used on clients who do not have time to visit the salon 48 hours before every application. It is used on clients who do not want hair dye left open on their skin.

Colourstart is one of the most important advancements in professional hairdressing. It helps to improve client satisfaction and safety in the salon

Due to its benefits and ease of use, Colourstart is rapidly becoming an industry standard.

Mike B2MR

                                       Oh Finally Gloves at all times!!!!!

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Demi formulation fact or fiction


regular postings of fresh new topic’s

sharing lets talk colour
educating sharing



Having just posted an article about Demi lotion. I was very interested to find these to articles until i read them. They not only contradict each other they both mislead. The one below in the first line by confusing Demi lotion application as being another name for a semi permanent this article i was

unable to write a comment on!


The second posting although better was still incorrect however i was able to post comment as to whether it gets posted or not is another question!


Article one: from online posting

Semi Demi Colour:

Hair color procedures come in many forms. Semi-permanent (sometimes called Demi Color) is one of my favorites. This color does not enter the hair cuticle[ Demi does enter cuticle to some degree]. It’s a non-ammonia, low peroxide hair color [ As above if Demi Ammonia may be present] that only affects the outside of the hair shaft. It won’t lighten hair but can cover some Grey. I love to use it because it does not have any damaging effect on the hair, in fact it gives hair brightness and shine and makes hair look fresh and less frizzy. It’s a great process for men also as it can cover grey without looking like a guy who’s coloring his hair (which is what most men want)! It’s very natural looking.

I love doing hair color because it has the power to change how people look and feel. In my salon, over 80% of my clients get color. I’ve been doing hair color for over 35 years and still love going to work every day!

I’ve seen every change and new process in the hair salon business and change is what makes the business so exciting for me. I love sharing these changes with my clients, going to advanced hair classes and learning all the new hair trends and treatments.

Semi-permanent hair color is not exactly new but it will make you fell like you’ve got a brand new, fresh look and make your hair look healthy and shiny as well.

Above Written and posted by hairdresser



Demi-permanent hair color: from online posting

Demi-permanent color level lasts much longer, It can last through 24 to 26 shampoos. In the demi-permanent color process, pre color molecules go into the cuticles and will enter the cortex where they then partner to create medium sized color molecules. Their bigger in size which means they can take much longer to wash out. Demi-permanent color products do not contain any ammonia so the natural pigment of your hair can not be lightened. Demi-permanent color does contain a very small amount of peroxide, which adds a subtle, but noticeable, color enhancement to your hair. It also helps to blend and cover gray hair.

Above Written and posted by hairdresser


Article Two:

Demi response to above article:

Had a look great article most informative: But a Demi formulation may well have ammonia or another alkaline in in it, as you stated the colour molecules deposit in the cortex to get in to the cortex the cuticle has to be opened hence need for alkaline such as ammonia to create this environment the colour molecules then develop when they meet with the peroxide stimulating them to swell and develop.

The ammonia or alkaline create the environment for the colour molecules to enter the hair the peroxide reacts with the molecules swelling the new colour

It is the peroxide that lifts hair not Ammonia over time a Demi application can lighten hair given that the peroxide level is around 5vol. This lightening will only occur with prolonged use and over

Razor cutting dem
razor cutting

lapping!Thanks for the article Mike B2MR



By definition Demi Lotion formulation is as follows:

What is Demi colour how does it fit in with permanent and Semi permanent colour?

Demi permanent colour is an opaque hair colour it will generally last about 6 weeks

It main design and application would be for modern Grey coverage and refinement of under tones, also adding richness and shine has a slightly satin finish.

It will not lighten the hair’s natural pigment when mixed correctly with right developer.

It Penetrates the cuticle layer to deposit the new artificial pigment in the Cuticle  and to some degree in the Cortex, ammonia or another alkaline is required for this chemical process,  although not a formulation to lighten the hair over use or constant over lapping will over time lighten the hair slowly, due to the fact that the developer has a low level of peroxide normally less than 5vol. this percentage of Hydrogen Peroxide is required to develop the colour molecules enabling them to deposit partially in the cuticle and cortex, Semi permanent colour tend to be direct dye that lie on the cuticle layer will fade out with washing but may build upon very porous hair, In some formulation a semi permanent may have an alkaline in the to partially open the cuticle for extra deposit.

[ direct dye is fully developed colour molecule the larger the colour molecule the more the cuticle has to be opened the larger ones will not deposit as deeply so will fade quicker]


I hope this is helpful MikeB2MR


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